And pmohr, would I check the pigtail the same way I would check the actual sensor? What should it read? I think there actually is a meter at my house.

Oh and btw, my pcv valve sure as hell wasn't easy to pull out like you say it is. I struggles actually. That's how car repair seems to go for me though

semi new, signed up never really started posting, i have a black 5spd 96 maxima, and a white 5spd 96 infiniti g20, i have a problem with my timing chain tensioner on my maxima, im doing my water pump, and im snagged, i cant figure out how to slack the tensioner, PLEASE HELP!!

Guys,
Do they still make OEM floor mats for a 96 maxima? If not who makes the closest floor mat that matches the OEM fit and color?

TIA

In the middle of a motor swap on a 95 Max. Could anyone point me in the right direction on where to purchase the long support bracket that connects to the bottom of the rad support and extends all the way past the rear of the motor? Basically its the base for the front and rear motor mount. Thanks, Mike

If I am not mistaking, but there's a tool that autozone or advanceauto that rents out for tensioners.

You can try hitting the junk yard, you may have better luck there. Also, my SE had SE logo on the mats, where GLE didn't.

i got http 500 from the search i need to find answers about the alternator. the car didnt want to start this morning all the lights in the dash were real dim and the car didnt start when i turned the key it did a whining sound and nothing ive had the air bag and the break lights stay on for awhile previous to this, now the car is sitting there. battery drained or altenator? the car was working last night and i have no aftermarket h/u or subs or anything like that.

also the cel keeped coming on and off the past few days also. i had the cel for the inhibitor switch. then it went away then came back then off then on.. can it just be the battery.

A junkyard would be your best bet for wiring.

To check that pigtail you just need to check continuity while shaking the harness around, make sure it doesn't lose contact, or have too much resistance.

What do you mean? Remove the bolts, pull it out.

If you're trying to compress it first, a long flat head screwdriver works pretty well.

The crossmember? Your best bet as above is a junkyard, probably $10 or under. Brand new OEM, you're looking at close to $300. Could always post a WTB in the classifieds, but it's a rather unfriendly item to ship.

They rent out tools for automatic belt tensioners, but there's no special tool for the VQ main chain tensioner.

Have you actually tried to charge the battery, or jump start the car? What's the current battery voltage?

Have you had the battery and/or alternator tested?

Took my '95 to Firestone to have suspension checked. Car pulls hard to the right when accelerating and the top of the driver's side strut moves within the mount when rocking steering wheel.

They informed me that the lower control arm bushings are toast and need to be replaced but the whole arm has to be replaced (they can't just replace the bushing). I did a search online and found bushing kits but in the pics they have usually have a bunch of bushings which I assume to be for other suspension components as well.

My question is: What will replacing the bushing entail? Is it something that needs to pressed in or something that I need special tools? Everywhere I've called locally says they need to special order the bushing I need. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

FYI: I tried doing a search but got an HTTP 500 Internal error message

Thanks Pmohr. Wish my Pearl looked that good!

As I said a few posts back, my 97 threw out a P0600 A/T Comm Line code. Nissan says this may be due to low fuel pressure...? Either way, is this an actual line that can be replaced if need be? I read that it helps control smooth shifting (which I def. don't have) but can someone elaborate what this is all about? BTW, when I let on/off the gas pedal, it's no where near a "smooth action." You can def feel when you are pressing it or letting off.

It's true that trans problems (feels like) are not necessarily actual trans problems? Can't other malfunctioning items make it feel like the trans is messed up?

Thanks

You can replace the bushings separately, but it is easier to just replace the entire control arm. Any balljoint play? If so, it's likely to be far more cost effective to replace both control arms, instead of the bushings and balljoints.

Installation instructions, from search: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-install.html

Trust me, it's called the dirty pearl for a reason; washed once a year, if that. And at least yours runs

Low fuel pressure wouldn't cause a P0600. It's not really a 'line', it's referring to communication between the TCM and the ECU.

Clear the codes, see if it comes back. It could be a TCM, ECU, or wiring issue.

Yes, other issues can seem like trans issues; TPS and MAF come to mind first thing, as well as hard part failure.

Please Help! I need to replace the waterpump on my 96' Maxima. Instruction, illustrations, and any advice or links would be a great help. I don't know where to start.

no i didnt try to charge or jump start the car. this morning i went outside and was getting the voltage reading on the battery it was random i was getting 3.69 11.23 13.43 19.26 with the car off. then i went to try to turn it on same thing again the lights on the gauge dim out and then there was a clicking sound from the fuse box next to the battery not the one in front then the clicking sound died and when i turn the key again the car started i then when and proceded to disconnect the (-) cable from the battery and the car maintained on with all the lights on, the h/u on, the a/c on all at full power and it didnt shut down. after that the car started up ok again. could it be the starter? or maybe since it was cold that affected the battery but its all weird.

I would advise you start by actually doing some research. Did you look in the stickies or search?

There is a link in the stickies.

Why did you disconnect the ground cable with the engine running?

Get the battery and alternator tested.

Search doesn't seem to be working. Any idea where I might find the sticky pertaining to replacing a water pump?

In the 4th gen subforum, with the rest of the stickies.

I've been having a problem with a coil. it's the middle bank, closest to the radiator.

A few times, this cylinder would malfunction, causing a bad idle/drivability.

So, I popped the plug off, and found out this was the coil causing the problem. So I went to the junk yard, got a coil off a 96 max with 88k miles on it.

I put it on, and it still wouldn't work.

Now here's where it gets weird.

I pop the plug off the coil, stick the volt meter to it. Once I get a reading of 13-15v's(fluctuating while the car is running), then clip the connector back onto the coil, it works again.

No problems for months, then it comes back.

So I do the same thing, pop the plug off, then back on, no go.
I pop the plug off, test it with the volt meter, once I get a reading, then clip it back on the coil, presto, it works again.

My guess is that the connector is the problem since it gets the volts to it, but I'm not sure how to go about fixing it.

Any suggestions?

Likely just a bad connection inside the connector, and probing it is moving the contacts around enough to work properly. First I'd take a good look at that connector next to a known good one for comparison purposes, then replace it.

Is their a good kit for this? I'd like to avoid replacing the entire harness for all the coils, but I'm not sure how splicing would effect drivability.

Splicing in a new pigtail shouldn't affect driveability in the least. Hell, I've added ~6 or so inches behind the ECU harness connector (on each wire) without issues.

wanted to knw if any1 has the

Open the hood, and with the car engine off, loosen the negative battery cable so that it can be removed with little effort. With the battery cable still loosely attached to the terminal, crank the engine, then pull the battery cable completely free of the terminal. If the engine continues to run, the alternator is providing enough voltage to power the electric circuits that provide spark to the spark plugs, electric fuel pumps, etc. You can increase the demand on the alternator by turning on headlamps, heater blower fans, and other electrical accessories to determine the draw capability of your alternator. If the engine immediately dies when the cable is removed, the alternator is probably bad.

That is in no way a proper alternator test, and can very well lead to damage to electronic parts. The battery doesn't just store energy to start the car (and for demand in excess of the alternator's capability), but also serves to smooth out the power delivery to the rest of the vehicle, same principle as a surge protector.

I wouldn't trust 90% of what I see on wiki-how, FWIW.

i see ok. well the car is starting up again. i had to do some xmas shooping so i wwasnt able to check the battery nor the alternator. the alternator has received some love stains from the front valve leakeage. the ohm readings were low for the battery.

also umm..... what does it mean to Loosen the belt pensioner about 810 revolutions...... does that mean to turn from the starting point 4.5 times around???

You tested resistance on the battery?

Where are you reading the belt tensioner bit from?

i did the multireader on the battery while it was off and i got 11.43 and then i got 7.62. which its low should be around 13 right?

i got that "Loosen the belt pensioner about 810 revolutions" from motorvate.ca did that web archieve search on it.

I was grounding my starter today and noticed this connector that doesn't go anywhere I can see. I searched for 15 minutes. My car does seems to work fine except my ABS, but I didn't see anywhere to plug it into the actuator. Any thoughts?


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

Using Mozilla Firefox as search engine. Click "search this thread", or "Search" on the header above, put in the search parameters (very basic such as a couple OBDII codes), click on "Go", and all I get is a blank page which says "Done" in the lower left. I tried clicking on "New Posts" and got the same thing. A few days ago it worked fine for me but not as of a couple days ago. What's up? Am I making a simple mistake somewhere?

search is actually down due to HTTP 500 Internal Server Error.

cosmokramer00 and pmorh, thanks for the help, i found the thread on here, im going the bolt route, thats what we were snagged on, the haynes manual didnt say to remove the bolts so thats why i was worried.

okay so i took my car to autozone. they tested the alternator (i thought i had to take it out) but yea my battery is in good condition but the alternator is gone its draining the battery so i found a remanufact with 125amp for 110 with the trade in of my alternator and one year warranty. they get there pretty much all their stuff from nissan. how long does the R&R take on the alternator. less than 4 hours?? i am stuck working 10 hours a day this week and weds & thurs is the only days i have in the morning.

Ive looked on every nissan forum and i cant find the diagram of a 97 maxima with pics of bank 1 and bank 2 and the position of the 02 sensors plz cant someone help me out b'cuz when its explained in words it very confusing

I am acquiring a 97' SE it only has 108k miles and runs pretty well. The only real problem with it is the speedometer. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. The guy I'm getting it from has already tried replacing the sensor, and it still doesnt work. Is this a common problem, and how can i fix it??

I did a little research, and someone said it could be a wiring harness? Any advice? i really dont know much about cars, but i really want to learn!

my horn sticks when i try to use it. it gets stuck and no matter how hard i hit the steering wheel it doesnt stop until it decides to stop on its own.
Do i need a new steering wheel or new horns? i dont want to get another steering wheel and it still sticks. has anyone else have this problem or know what it might be?...

Maybe neither! The first thing to do is take off your steering wheel and look at the horn contacts. Could be sticking and be a simple fix by cleaning out the dirt/grime/spilled coke?? etc

Removing the wheel takes 5 minutes, just gotta have the right tamper proof socket.

hmmm, cool thanx. i'll try that this weekend when i have time.

I have a couple of questions about the six speed swap (4th gen):

Firstly let me say that my objective is to make the swap as easy as possible because I don't have the greatest set of tools .

1. I realize that I have to weld the 3.0 timing ring to the 3.5 flywheel if I want to use a stock 3.5 flywheel, but do I still have to drill and tap a new position for the CPS or is that just for aftermarket flywheels? I'm trying to avoid modifying the CPS position because it can cause starting problems if done incorrectly.

2. Does Travis have a group buy thread for his timing ring like Matty does with his supercharger kit or does he just deal individually via PM? I can imagine he gets a ton of inquiries daily about his timing ring.

3. How much torque will be sufficient for the transmission mount frame bolts?

4. Some of the pictures is missing from the FAQ thread (specifically the picture of the flywheel bolts and the picture of the flywheel with the auto timing ring). Can someone point me towards those pictures?

Hello,
Wanted to know whether these poly Energy Suspension LCA bushings
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=230408152164

will press fit into these LCAs:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=140348312891

If not, should they be press fit-able into the stock LCAs? Or do I need to buy some special LCAs with replaceable bushings? Anyone have experience changing these?

Thanks