Assuming your stating turning the key is like trying to start the car with no battery, It would be my guess that their is a short in the ignition switch circuit somewhere considering it "worked perfect" for a while. However this is only my opinion and what i would suspect if this were an issue i was having.

 

i had codes p0105 and p1105
it was diagnosed as a faulty map sensor
i disconnected the battery, changed it, connected it--and the SES light came right up when i started the car. i tried the ECU screw method and the SES light came on the next time i started the car.
i've driven about 62 miles since i changed it.
so basically my question is -- how many miles until the codes go away?

 

If the CEL comes back on immediately after clearing codes, you have a hard failure somewhere. The component itself, wiring, ECU...you won't know until you start testing things.

 

There is no sounds. No clicking of the starter. I had the starter rebuilt by a well-known expert builder around her that builds starters for race cars. When I sit in the car, put the key in the ignition, turn it and no sound only the lights on the dash light up (air bag, brake, oil, etc.)

What gets me is that when the car is cold or sits for a while it will start right up. When the car has been driven for a while is when it gives me this kind of problem. Someone said it could be a relay.

 

Again, have you tried starting it in any position other than Park?

When it's not wanting to start, I would try jumping the posts on the starter to see if it's a starter problem, or somewhere else in the circuit.

And it's possible that it's a relay, you could always swap out the starter relay with another of the same color.

 

hey i have a 98 maxima and want to change my hood and bumper out. can anyone recommend any sites out there to get the best variety.

 

I have tried it in neutral. Thanks

 

Aftermarket, OEM? OEM replacement, bodykit?

...and none of the other positions?

 

Thinking of a body kit but have not made decision yet. My hood has sun damage to it, would like to replce with new or used. been checking the junk yards as well.

 

Make your decision on whether or not you want OEM or aftermarket styled pieces, then we can help you.

 

that sucks
by "component itself", you mean the MAP sensor assembly?

 

If that is indeed the problem, yes.

 

i had it diagnosed to be the sensor itself. all of the lines were a-okay.
and i replaced the sensor.
would the SES light go away after the car is driven for a few days though?

 

Diagnosed by who or what?

If you reset the CEL and it pops back up immediately, it's not going to go away unless the problem goes away.

 

harjit did it. he is better known on the small org. its called k&k in uniondale, ny.
it could also be possible that there are new codes. i guess i'll check tomorrow.

 

I'll try later tonight. Thanks

 

Does anybody know what size is the stock speakers in 95 max? looking to replace my speakers.

 

I had a cel for 0606 misfire cylinder 3, I changed all the spark plugs and swapped coils from cyl 3 to 1 to check if the coil was the cause of the misfire. (sparkplugs were disgusting, really really bad.) I erased the codes and drove for a little while. cel came back on but this time 0201 and 0605 misfire cyl4?! I am not sure why i am getting a misfire in cyl4 now? could it be something not tightened properly or just random bad luck that the coil is trouble in 4? the #1 cyl is not showing any codes... that is where i thought there was trouble with the coil originally....

 

Haha sorry too broad, I meant getting power, but way too little to actually start the car. Like for me for example, I had enough power to still turn on the lights and such but they were really him, like 20% of what they normally would be. So there was actually power getting to the two places, but technically dead.

Sorry not a mechanic but will be someday as soon as I am done with HS

 

From the first post of this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...aker-size.html
http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...e-4th-gen.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...d-4th-gen.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...aker-size.html
http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...gens-help.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...r-speaker.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...aker-size.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...aker-size.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-speakers.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-1995-gxe.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-new-here.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-speakers.html

Not to mention in the damn stickies:
http://forums.maxima.org/4656884-post3.html

Are you still on the original coils? It's possible they're starting to fail, one by one. Check the connections on each coil, then I'd test them.

 

I tried to start the car in all the gears and it still would not crank. I hit the starter with a pole and it cranked right up. Starter must be going.

 

had this happen to me recently...expect lots and lots of white smoke/unburned fuel coming out of your exhaust

 

see above post...one of my fuel injectors was not sitting properly on the rail...fuel was pouring everywhere and there was lots of white smoke coming form the exhaust and unburnt fuel was also coming out of there

 

I recently had tein basics installed, after 3 alignments the car doesn't want to stay in a straight line, it often veers left or right. The coilovers were installed with the stock mounts and the mechanic says it is rubbing on top on the fronts and their sticking.

At first he advised a camber kit, then says that he doesn't think they'll work and that I need an upper strut bearing. I know teins are one of the more popular kits and was wondering if anyone could give some advice. I searched the threads and know most applications use the stock mounts.

Also, the car makes loud rubbing sounds when turning, mostly from the front, just a little noise in the rear. The car is a bit lower now, the mechanic says several inches, I am not sure exactly, it is not extreme, I don't care much about height I just want the added handling.

Any and all advice is most appreciated
Thanks in advance, Andy.

 

Sounds good

 

I just purchased a 97 GXE and was wondering which controls are lighted (e.g. side mirror control, security display, cig lighter etc.)? It would be great if someone could take a pic of their dashboard at night with all the lights working.

 

hey guys i am new here and i am from Puerto Rico...i have a 1995 nissan maxima GLE that i recently swapped from automatic to 5 speed MT...now i am wondering if the 350z engine could fit into my maxima with some modifications or not...if anyone here already do this with this engine and were i can find information about it...i am going to do the VQ35 swap and i want to do it with this engine...i search here but i cant find anything about it...if is not possible i would get a fwd vq35...well, if anyone could help me with this would be great, thank you.

 

You can't be serious. You need to a lot more.

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...s-lengthy.html

 

I have a 95 GXE w/206K. For the past month or so it's been giving me problems stalling at stoplights where the rpms will plummet down to 100 or so and then it will die. Occasionally it drops down that low and then comes back up to normal without stalling. Also, while I'm driving on the highway I'll suddenly feel the rpms try to drop, but because I've got my foot on the accelerator they don't drop too much. (The best way to describe this is that it feels as if someone is physically pulling down on the engine. I know it's weird.) When this happens, I'm almost guaranteed that once I get off the highway and make a turn or come to a stoplight, the car is going to die. Within the past few days it's added this: I'll be sitting at a stopsign and press on the gas and I just kind of idle forward for a few seconds then it catches and suddenly I'm up to 3000 rpms and and flying around a corner. After this, it will try to die at some point unless I'm lucky and can get on the freeway, in which case I can feel the rpms trying to drop.

This is very intermittent too. Might have days where it dies 3 or 4 times or none at all. I replaced my IACV thinking that may be the problem and also replaced my fuel filter. Those haven't changed anything. I also had to replace the connector on my MAF a couple of months ago as it was loose and killing the car. The only codes I was getting when this started to happen a few weeks ago were 0304 (Knock Sensor) and 0707 (Oxygen Sensor) I've been driving with those two codes for quite a long time with no problems (still get 34-36 mpg on highway). Then, after I replaced the IACV and started the car, the car ran really rough for a minute or two before it died. During this, the CEL was turning on and off a lot, but not in any pattern (it wasn't in diagnostic mode). I then put it in diagnostic mode and I got a 0205(Idle speed control function) and 0305 (EGR Temperature sensor Unit). However, I reset the ECU then restarted the car and it started fine and ran fine for the remainder of the day and only threw 0505. I did all of that last weekend. This past week, the problem came back. Still stalling and pulling down the rpms, however, I just checked the ECU and I'm only getting the knock sensor code after putting on at least 120 miles since last weekend.

I've looked around on here and have seen some similar problems but none ever seemed to say if they were resolved. I keep thinking this is a fuel problem, (possibly fuel pump?) but am not sure. I'm a bit of a newbie but have been trying to learn how to take care of my car on my own. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. I don't want to just start switching out parts (which was what I did with the IACV). I don't have the money for that. Thanks in advance to anyone.

 

34-36 MPG highway? ...if you say so.

Have you tested the coils or the injectors yet? They could cause some of your symptoms.

 

hehe...i know the mpg is hard to believe.

I haven't checked them yet. I'll get right on it though. thanks.

 

Bump, this does not seem to be the right section but am unable to post anywhere else....

 

Ok, I checked all the coil packs and got approx. .8 ohm on all but the middle coil on the front. It was approx. 1 ohm. Is that enough to make a difference?

Checked the front 3 injectors and they were all the same as each other. What is the resistance supposed to be on a good fuel injector? I swear I remember seeing it in here somewhere but can't find it now. Also, I'm assuming that the only way to get to the back injectors is to take off the UIM, right?

When I removed the connector from one of the injectors a small amount of fuel leaked from the hose that connects to the fuel rail. I'm not sure which one caused it because I didn't notice until I smelled it. Tried to recreate it by pulling the connectors again with no luck. Not sure what caused that. After I plugged everything back in I started the car up and didn't see anything different. I do smell a lot fuel at times when I open the hood but never can find any leaks other than this one time. Argh. This is frustrating.

 

question,

one of the rotor brake pad cover is loose and is rubbing against my rear tire.....to my understanding the cover is to protect the brake disk from salt or stuff...should I remove it because its gonna be a headache trying to solder it back on

 

Rotor brake pad cover? You mean the dust shield?

You could just remove it, but personally I would leave it in place.

If it's loose, why don't you tighten the bolts back up? Or is it broken?

 

If it is broken don't people just remove it when they install 300zx bbk, so it culdnt be that necessary

 

Yes, Nissan put it there just as an extra.

It's not completely necessary, you could remove it, but I would fix it or break off the broken piece. Having at least something there to keep debris from going all over the rotor is a good thing.

 

I dont know what its called but it is a thin circular metal shape part that goes over the brake pad to cover it.....I can't leave it in place because it is completely out of the pad...

 

That goes over the pad? are you talking about the calaper?!?!?! or do you mean that goes around the rotor?

 

Sounds like you're talking about the shim, but that's not circular...

Can you point it out on this image? Just the part code is all that's necessary.