can anyone help me find the number one sparkplug
on a 1996 maxiam

 

 

I've had my 97 GLE auto for almost a month now.. Occasionally (about maybe 5 times total) after starting the car, I'll notice the "O/D Off" light will flicker in my instrument cluster. It'll blink on and off for about ten times total... Then shut off. It doesn't affect the performance of the car, nor do I think it's a problem with the overdrive switch in the shifter. (I've successfully toggled the overdrive on and off)

Any help is much appreciated.

 

The TCM is throwing a fault code. Is the CEL lit? If so, you can just pull the codes from the ECU, should be the same codes set.

If not, perform the TCM diagnostic procedure. Search and you shall find.

 

Appreciate the quick response.

No, the CEL is not lit. I'll search for the TCM diagnostic procedure.
Thanks.

 

Okay, I have a 96 Maxima with bose system. I just put in a new aftermarket head unit using the 70-7550 harness. I've read all the posts about this but still need help. The new hu works but it's got way too much power (too loud at lowest level) and I'm getting tachometer whine (hear the engine through the speakers). After reading posts it looks like there's pre-amps on all the bose speakers so I need to rewire with the rca amp integration harness (70-7551) using the rca hook up on new hu to bypass the new hu internal amp. Question - my new hu only has 2 rca's and the harness has 4 so do I just get a couple splitters at radioshack? I don't want to pull this all apart again if I'm missing something here. Help if you can please.

 

Bose Problems are my speciality.. Yes i spelled that wrong on purpose..

So, heres the thing; Bose if you didnt know is amplified at the speaker, not at the headunit. So the signal your sending to the already amplified speakers is amplified. So, first off what kind of head unit do you have? Is the Low Level RCA out on the back filtered?

In your situation theres alot of options.

You can split the RCA's off of the Low Levels in the back, but the sound is PROBABLY going to be SUPER quiet now.. So'long as you dont mind listening to only the right and left "rear outputs" you can do my personal favorite mod and throw a Line driver back there. The best one for the job (and the most cost efficient)

Please defer to this thread, where i explain my solution.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...und-sound.html

 

96 maxima my car started shaking like crazy and the check engine light started blinking i checked the code is was p0303 cylinder 3 misfire i changed the coil and the car is still shaking .... any suggestions on how to fix this shaking........ thanks for your time

 

alright, I own a 98' maxima and just have 18" ADR wheels/Falken tires, Exhaust system. What should I do to this thing next (I want to make it faster)

 

i am new and i want to spend some of my bonus money on m 4th gen. 1999 maxima.
any suggestions fr good legit performance parts?

 

Search.

You as well. This has all been covered hundreds of times in this very thread alone, not to mention the entire time this subforum has been open.

Most of it is personal preference, but you've got to consider your budget, reliability requirements, etc.

Did you actually test the coil, or are you just throwing parts at it? Did you test the injector? Pull the plug?

 

i live in houston tx i was wonderin if anyone knew of a good shop to take my 96 max so i can get the engine redone its leaking oil please hit me up

 

I am having the SAME PROBLEM. BUT I got new struts on the driver side passenger side and the driver left side. I was hearing a squeeking noise when i go over bumps.. Just got them installed today and the squeeking is gone before it was every bump now its like on a very hard bump. but i still hear it and as this guy mentioned when i turn it feels as if the tire is hitting the rotors or something and my steering is pulling to the right. so is this just an alignment needed or i have to go back to the mechanic and yell at him? and what is this squeeking noise? the ball bearings? Also i got a new odometer and my miles are 132,000 but this new odometer is 172,000 and its analog.. how can i change the miles to make it to 132,000. I havnt installed it yet cuz of this problem..

 

Well.... bad news of course... Its been a solid 2 weeks and the car has run absolutely flawlessly. No problems at all. Today... 2 weeks and many perfect start ups later the car started and stalled instantly again. The same exact thing that happened originally. My son tried to start it a second time by pumping the gas pedal and it started up. It idled at around 1200 rpms for a little while and then settled down to 650 and ran perfect.
I have no idea what to check now. I talked to a mechanic and asked if he thought it was a fuel pump and he said he doubted it. He told me that fuel pumps don't usually go on these cars. He said he would need to put it on an analyzer. He did mention the MAF sensor. When I removed the air filter box I sprayed some CRC MAF sensor cleaner in it through the screen. It looked spotlessly clean from that side. Should I have removed the entire unit and cleaned it from both sides? Any other ideas? Money is really tight around here lately and I really can't afford to take it to a mechanic.
Any help is appreciated!

 

I'm not sure what your problem is, but I can tell you what it isn't.

It's not the MAF. The Max will start fine w/o it. Go ahead and unplug it and you'll see. It's once you give it gas or put it in gear that the Max would stall with a bad MAF/unplugged MAF.

 

Do you think it could be the IACV? My car is not throwing a CEL.
Would a dirty IACV cause a very intermittant start and immediately stall unless the gas pedal is feathered. This is the first time it has done this in over 2 weeks. I plan on removing and cleaning the IACV, and that sensor that is down near the crankshaft pulley.
Is there anything else I should check.
Again.. here are the symptoms....
Today I turned the key and the car started instantly and immediately stalled. I tried this 4 times. Same result. I feathered the gas pedal when cranking it and it started. This is the first time this has happened in over 2 weeks. I did a complete tune up on the car including fuel filter. I didn't clean the IACV or that sensor near the crankshaft pulley. The only code the car threw is a knock sensor because my son put a few tanks full of 87 octane in it. No CEL ever. Car runs 100% perfect.

 

I have a 95 Max 5speed (136Kmiles) and have done quite a bit searching and have worked on this problem for a while now. My CEL light came on about a week ago. I pulled the code 0605 Cylinder 4 misfire. On a side note - I went ahead and changed the knock sensor b/c I wasn't sure when it had been changed last. I pulled the coil on cyl 4 and the idle changed, so I assumed it was good. Then I checked the ohms at the injector and I am getting a reading of over 35ohms. Does that suggest that my wiring may be faulty? If it does, I have no idea how to check that. Maybe I'm not using the right search terms.

One thing I have noticed is that I have had to clean white powder (??) off of my positive battery terminal twice in the past week also. Does this corrosion have anything to do with a cyl 4 misfire?

Thanks in advance!

Chris

 

Thanks for the info. I have been doing alot of research online tonight and it seems very possible it could be a dirty IACV.
Is there anything else I should clean?

 

The symptoms I read on line of a dirty IACV seem to point to the problem I am having. It seems to be a very minor problem. It hasn't happened in 2 solid weeks. If I step on the gas pedal while it is turning over it starts up.
From what I have read, the IACV is bypassed somehow when the gas pedal is pushed down. If the IACV is clogged it won't allow air and the car won't start. I am thinking its something very minor because the car runs fantastic.

 

The frustrating thing is that I really won't know if I fixed it or not. I thought I fixed it when I replaced the fuel filter. Obviously.. a complete tune up is a good thing but it didn't solve my problem even though I thought it did.

 

Another frustrating thing is getting to 15 posts which I think I just did! Whew....

 

I guess I still can't post on any of the threads. Bummer.

 

OK, today I removed the IACV. It was dirty. It had black muck caked on the cover that is held on with 3 screws and when I removed the cover the black plastic ring had a fair amount of black sludge on it. it wasn't completely clogged but it was really dirty. I cleaned it out with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. I went to the dealership and bought a new gasket, cleaned the contacts and reinstalled it. I started the car and it instantly started but the idle dropped down to around 200 for a brief second and then picked right up to about 1100 for a minute or 2 and then dropped down to 650 and idled perfectly. I started it again and it shuttered for a brief second and started and idled perfect. My guess is I had some carb cleaner in the IACV and I did spray some in the upper intake. I then tackled the cam position sensor that is near the crank pulley. I removed it and it was covered in grease. I completely cleaned it, cleaned the contacts and reinstalled it. The car started perfectly. I took it for a test drive and it ran great. I tried starting it a few times and it started perfectly with no issues. Hopefully.. one of them or both of them were the problem.

 

Now.. on to another issue. When accelerating there is a pretty wicked rattle under the dash. It also sounds like a speedometer cable in an old car because if I accelerate briskly the rattle increases and gets louder and if I back off the throttle and just cruise the noise just about goes away. Is there anything I can look for. Is this a common problem?

 

Bought the car in February 09, two O2 sensors and a knock sensor later its throwing P0420. Changed the Bank one sensor 2 last weekend and the car started throwing code P0420 yesterday. Reseach leads me to a bad catalytic converter??? The car is licensed in NC. Can I put on the Cali Spec converter that is not approved for sale in California?

I also replaced both front axles and the car vibrates slightly on hard acceleration. Any thoughts?

 

I bought a VQ35DE out of a 2006 Maxima earlier this year with a transmission, there are about 34K miles on it. I had intended on putting this in my 4th gen but don't have time to fiddle with it anymore. I'm getting rid of it. If anyone is interested make me an offer. All reasonable offers will be considered. Thanks.

I have pictures.

I can ship but shipping a 1200-1300lb motor aint cheap nor is it recommended.

the motor in is knoxville TN

Email me for more information.

laxislife21@hotmail.com
or
andrew@hancockinsagency.com

Thanks for looking.

 

I replaced the drive axles on a 95' maxima auto because of faulty cv joints. Once everything was back together the car doesn't drive. The trans seems ok(up to the final drive unit anyway) because while in drive, the speedo rises and it makes the clicking noise when you put it in park. I removed the axles again to make sure they match the old ones and they do perectly except the new ones have the extra sprocket for ABS.

I had both axles out at the same time. Because the car drove fine prior to this work, I suspect that both axles should not have been out at the same time on this model. Is there anything special I need to do if I have both axles out at the same time. I have the parts to replace the trans filter and suspect I will need to get in there to inspect/fix this.

During the 1st re-assebly, the drivers side was a pain to get back together. There doesn't seem to be enough clearance to get the ball joint bolt back through the hole. I ended up removing the tie-rod and it eventually went in. The reason i mention this is it took a lot of muscle to get it on and is the only reasonI can think, other than both axles out at the same time, that something could have broke in the trans

Thank you!
schoeby

 

There's no problem with both axles being out.

Why remove the balljoint/tie rod nuts? Much easier and quicker to remove strut-knuckle bolts/nuts.

Are you sure you FULLY engaged the driver's side axle into the trans? That's most likely your problem. If you can, take a picture.

Also, you can't service pretty much anything other than the VB/solenoids/filter when you drop the pan, everything else is inaccessible.

 

ok, i was going to post a new thread about this but i guess i can ask here first.

my question is, can i put a c-pillar bar on my 4th gen? i know there are some for 240's and it is supposedly the same length as an ef(88-91 civic) hatch and a da(90-93 integra 2dr). i measured the from one end to the other and it is roughly between 47in & 50in which i think its roughly the same measurments for an ef, da and possibly a 240. has anyone tried putting a c-pillar br on their 4th gen?

 

Thank you for your assistance.

The lower ball joints were shot so I replaced them in the process. It is now a 15 min. job maybe 30 on the passenger side doing it that way. Those strut nuts look intimidating. Maybe I will give it a try.

I thought the driver side was fully engaged. I heard/felt it click when i pushed it in there. I wouldnt expect it would have fit back together otherwise. However, I will get over there later or tomorrow to have another look and send some pictures if i still have the problem. Anything specific you want to look at? I will get the shafts where they enter the trans.

 

Hey Maxima community, the other day i made up some ground cables, one for the IM, one for the timing chain cover and one for the starter. The one for the starter i connected one end to the ground for the battery (next to clutch slave cylinder) and the other end i connected to the starter..well at the time i didnt know that the starter was grounded through the bellhousing so i connected it to the terminal on the back of the starter, not the one with the positive cable going to it..the other one. I plugged my battery in and tried to start the car..all i heard was a clicking..so i disconnected the batter and took my ground cable off...I managed to start the car after but it didnt seem like it wanted to start..anyway got the car home and parked it for the night. Next day i went to go start the car and it wouldnt fire..it would crank and sputter but it would not start. I got the starter tested..its fine, i tested the battery when cranking the car, it didnt drop below 12v, and my alternator is fairly new. I checked and the fuses and fusible links and they are all fine. I have an extra CKPS(POS) and CPS so i switched those out one by one and tried to start the car after each one and nothing. So now i think that i shorted out my ecu..basically i would just like some other input on this before i go out to a junkyard and start swapping ecu's and other various parts

 

95 Maxima.

I did the AT test and got the 3rd long blink code: 'Throttle Sensor Circuit' shorted or disconnected.

The only driving anomaly I notice is the 3rd to 4th, then OD shift.

When it goes to shift from 3rd to 4th, it will pause about .75 sec, as if it's getting ready to shift, then it shifts to 4th, and then about .5 sec later, fully engages to OD(I notice this because the RPMs drop even more.

This only happens in 3rd:
When the car is cold, going up a hill, it feels like the tranny is slipping, almost like the KS is malfunctioning.(checked KS, 510Kohms within specs). I notice the rpms have an intermittent pause, then continues up the rpm band, intermittent pause, then continues, till it upshifts, and then it goes away.(checked tranny stall speed, and it's within rpm specs).

Would the throttle sensor malfunctioning cause this?

If so, is their a test I can do to see if the switch or sensor is bad?

Ultimately, does this effect performance or life of any engine part?

 

My 4th gen has developed an oil leak around the pressure sending unit. If I remove it, will oil spill all over, or is there enough capacity in the pan to contain the 4 quarts of oil.

 

i have starting problems, werid right?
sparkplugs changed, coils are all new, new starter, new switch, newish fuel filter, ohmed all my injectors..
time to check my crank sensors- CPS and POS for metal shavings right?
i think one is on my timing cover near the top, and i know the other is on the other side of the motor, since the FSM's are down can anybody show me pics of both and proper ohm ratings? searched a bit and most threads just say to do it, no pics or specs.

also any other ideas for startups that fail and they sound like the motor hacking a bit, theres always a puff of exahust out my tailpipe when it happens and a powerfull smell of gas, is my FPR on the fritz and flooding my engine on startups?
it cranks once, then a labored crank, followed by a sound of metal grinding, but also slightly electronic noise, its really werid and every time it happens it gets worse and worse.
its usually about once or twice a day for the past 2 weeks.

203*** miles, manual, 6 tooth used starter(works fine for 2 months) 1997, no IACV right now but i have a IACV plate in the mail right now.mods at bottom of sig.

 

I have a 95 Max 5speed (136Kmiles) and have done quite a bit searching on this site and have worked on this problem for about a week. My CEL light came on about a week ago. I pulled the code, 0605 Cylinder 4 misfire. On a side note - I went ahead and changed the knock sensor b/c I wasn't sure when it had been changed last. I pulled the coil on cyl 4 and the idle changed, so I assumed it was good. Then I checked the ohms at the injector and I am getting a reading of over 35ohms. Does that suggest that my wiring may be faulty? If it does, I have no idea how to check the wiring. I've used the search function but maybe I'm not using the right search terms.

One thing I have noticed is that I have had to clean white powder (??) off of my positive battery terminal twice in the past week also. Does this corrosion have anything to do with a cyl 4 misfire?

Thanks in advance!

Chris

 

I recently had to change my engine and the one i bought was from a manual trans engine so the end of the crankshafts different the torque converter won't fit in what should i do? does the end of the crank interchange or something? i"m deep into swapping parts onto this motor and now I"m stuck anything would help thanks a lot!

 

i have a 95 maxima 5mt, and i have a electrical problem. i had installed a system in my car it was good, nothing happen then lastnight when i was driving home my radio cuts off and i dont know why and i cant wind up my windows or lock my car. i need help asap.

 

i have a 95 auto maxima i go a guy to change out my water pump. now my motor is putting n it riding rough its just not the same quite motor it was i ont know if he mess up the timing but did anybody have suggestions r something like this ever happen to somebody

 

I hate to bump this but I really could use some help on this issue. The car has 117k miles on it. Im fixin to take a long trip and need to make sure the car is worthy.

thanks

 

hello since i cant seem to make my own thread i just revived this one so my question is

which one is better spring for a lowered but comfortable ride i am look at the h&r spring(1.5,1.3) and the H.Tech tein spring(1.6F,1.2R) they both claim to work for stock struts(for now)(kyb,tokico)

cant seem to choose any reviews on people that own them and your opinion on them which one would you choose

let me know willing to answer questions and more info you have thanks