Why would you replace just the boot if the axles are bad? Replace the axle, it's the same labor either way. A new axle is less than $60 at most any auto parts stores.

 

sorry, i forgot to mention my dad insisted he buy a used axle from a junk yard, which is in pretty good condition, except that the boot on the wheel side of the axle, has a tear in it... so i wanna know how to get the new boot on.

 

I went with a friend of mine today to check out a 97 maxima, he doesn't know a whole lot about cars so I went along to see if I could find any problems.

The car seemed to run good, it had a few interior problems broken trim here and there but nothing too horrible.

But when we took it out for a drive I noticed right away there was a clicking sound coming from the front driver side. The sound increased and decreased in speed with acceleration and deceleration. When The clutch was pushed in the noise went away completely so I figure its something to do with the transmission?

Besides the clicking sound everything else seemed alright but I advised him to pass on this particular car due to the noise.

Are these cars prone to odd sounds coming from the front end after so many miles?

The car was sitting at 117,xxx when we drove it and there was no records of any work aver done to it.

Another question while I'm here. My friend is pretty dead set on this particular generation of Maxima and possibly a 3rd gen. What are some other common issues that I should check for in other cars we look at. I have no experience with these vehicles I'm more of a Toyota truck and Impreza guy so any help would be appreciated.

 

Hey guys just a few questions...

I got an 99 I30 with 165,xxx

First, is it normal to have a ticking noise coming from the engine? Best I can tell the sound is coming from about where the intake manifold meets the block, around there. Its a steady tickety tickety tickety really fast and rather quiet. I just don't remember it making that noise back when I got it. Perhaps I need an oil change..

Second, can I put 96-97 I30 tail lights on my car? They're SO much cheaper used and I need one. I don't care that they're orange.

Third, Is the knock sensor replacement on a 99 harder than other years? I suspect it's been gone for awhile. Is a 9 second 0-60mph normal? I know it can send the engine into 'safe mode' reducing HP. I also get like 19-20 mpg highway.

Fourth, at my mileage of 165k, is STP oil treatment advisable? does it do anything? do I ever need it? Car has been fed nothing but Mobil 5w-30 it's whole life.

Lastly, is the FSTB worth it? I see them on ebay real cheap, and my friend has one on his corolla and it corners like crazy.

Any answers would be great as I'm still new to the whole 'caring for a vehicle' thing, thanks.

 

Ok, heres a big one. I bought my nephews 95Max 5spd for 200$. The tranny is jacked up somehow. I plan on running the FWD class at Sportsdrome. Sportsdromeonline.com is the link.

My question is that with the motor having high miles (180k) and the tranny jacked up, would it be better/cheaper to swap the 3.5 or fix what I got, and do the couple cheap but efficient upgrades on the 3.0. The Y-pipe etc.

I think Im also gonna put Maxima.org huge on the car.

 

Alright quick question here, I was going to top up my Antifreeze and i started pouring and realized it was old engine oil not antifreeze. I only got maybe a table spoon of engine oil inside my coolant reservoir, is this bad? Should I just top it up with antifreeze and leave the oil be? Or should I try and suck out the engine oil with a squeeze.

 

Why take a chance?

Suck it out, or better yet, disconnect your overflow tank and go clean it out. Refill as necessary.

 

Well, I searched the whole house and could not find a squeeze to get the oil out, dont forget it is winter here in Canada and I dont think I would be able to disconect the overflow tank if it takes too long. Would approx. 1 tablespoon of dirty engine oil screw up my water pump and rubber hoses? I feel like an idiot doing something like this but my brother decided its a good idea to put his old engine oil in there.

 

Again, why take the chance?

Disconnecting the overflow tank should take less than 5 minutes. Bundle up, you'll survive.

 

Alright thanks Wizard very much appreciated especially for the fast response.

 

Don't know about the others, but a FSTB is a GREAT mod for the money. It doesn't have to be anything fancy. It is simple physics. If you're taking a left turn the car goes "down" on the right side and "up" on the left. When you get a FSTB it creates force "up" on the right and "down" on the left. Thus less body roll.

Also look into a rear sway bar if they make them for your model year. It works similar to the FSTB

 

If you're going to compete, why not go 3.5 swap? How serious of a racer are you? You could buy a 3.5, strip it down, clean it up, and upgrade it (gaskets, head bolts, cams, etc) and get more out of it than a 3.0.

You could also get a 01 VLSD transmission

Basically, it depends on what type of racing you're going to do. Serious racing, no daily driving go 3.5. Some racing and some daily driving, go 3.5. Racing against civics, go 3.5.

Any plans on boost?

 

Hey guys,

I figured I'd post this question here as opposed to starting a new thread as I most likely will repost it in the local section to see if anyone can help me out. I am looking to see what you guys think it should cost me to replace my two rear brake calipers (currently seized open) and replace all 4 rotors / 4 sets of pads on my car. I was quoted 800-1200 from my regular repair shop without them looking at the car. (I know there is a good size difference between the two figures, but I will give them credit; they didn't want to quote me exactly without seeing what needs to be replaced)

Also, is this a job you think I may be able to do on my own? I have basic knowledge of my car/cars in general, but brakes are something I have never taken a stab at before. I have replaced alternators, done knock sensors, oil changes, exhaust/y-pipe, O2 sensors, and various smaller projects.

The reason I ask is because I am trying to avoid sinking money into a vehicle I am looking to replace shortly.

To keep this thread clean, if you'd like, feel free to PM your responses and I will follow up with you.

Thanks!

 

currently driving an 99 i30 and a p0150 code came up several weeks earlier. so after searching the forums the code was a
"Diagnostic Trouble Code 0303 indicates a problem with the front Oxygen Sensor on the left cylinder bank. The left bank is also called the front bank."

my quick question is do i only need to have one 02 sensor replaced for trouble code 0303 or more than one?
i bought one universal 02 sensor already at some online auto warehouse for $41

 

Yo guys - I think my engine is a little laggy these days. I was getting the EGR (0400 code) / ACV (I think) - but it disappeared... Anyways, looking at the data stream on my obdii I noticed the 'short term fuel trim B1S1 was 099% and B2S1 was 000% - that seems wrong to me! Any ideas if that could be related to a dirty ACV or something else?

 

Chances are you can do it yourself given your skills.

4 rotors (assuming they're blanks) shouldn't cost more than $300
4 pads should be $75-$100
2 calipers should be $100-$200 a piece.

You can also shop around for all the stuff you need and then all you would pay for at the shop would be labor

 

i have an engine code that comes up every now and again which is a #21. From my understanding it has something to do with the camshaft sprocket slipping. The shop that diagnosed the problem wants $2500 to fix. The car itself starts from time to time kinda rough, if i tap the throttle a couple times it'll keep running, if i don't the car will die. After doing some research i found a recall on camshaft & crankshaft sensors. We pulled all 3 sensors and checked the ohm readings, they seem to be fine. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Not sure what the problem IS, but you should shop around on that price. I am removing the camshaft sprocket on the way to the o rings behind the rear timing chain case. Even the Nissan dealer quoted me only $1300 to reseal both TC covers which includes removing and re-installing both camshaft sprockets. It is a lot of work, but I think $2500 is way out of the park as the highest quote I have seen on the .org for the TC covers is around $1700.

 

my 1999 recently had a map sensor code and im thinking of replacing the sensor.
the thing is im not sure which type to get because the map sensors since im trying to buy online have the sensors with different number bars like 2 bar, 3 bar etc... despite being designed to my maxima they seem to have different number bars
i dont want to buy one online only to find out it wont fit with my car

im kinda lost on this bar size for the map sensors so please help

 

My leather seats are very damaged and i wonder if the seats of a maxima generation 5 or 6 can be install in a maxima generation 4

 

Hey "v3rtex7740" - I don't check this "I am new" often, but it looks like you've been ignored except for Conrad's reply on FTSB. I agree with that. I don't have an 'I' so I'm not sure about the lites, but here are some other answers. For the 'ticking', it's probably your injectors, they commonly are a bit noisy. You're right about changing the oil, 5K miles is a rough guide, or 6 months ... I change in Spring and Fall. STP is NOT a good idea, just on general principles. It is more likely to cause problems. Better step would be to go with Mobil Synthetic when you change, and get a real good filter, like from NAPA, only about $10-15 and MUCH better construction. See the stickies about OIL before you do the change; lotsa good ideas and advice there.
The knock sensor shouldn't be harder unless you're Calif, more junk in your way I guess. That's probably your reason for bad mileage. If you ALWAYS use premium gas, an easier 'fix' is to put a resistor in the KS harness. There's lots of articles about that if you search.
The best thing to do in your case is to
1) download the FSM at :http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/ and search for your model
2) Read the Stickies, paying especial attention to Maintenance advice
3) find a 'buddy' nearby that can advise you on repairs, NOT a stealership mechanic, unless he's a relative of yours

Good luck with your projects !!
Ed

 

Check the how-to section, I think there's a link to vqpower.com (if not, just go to vqpower.com). The front seats from a 5th gen will fit. If it's your back seats that are messed up, get the rear seat from an i30 (headrests, ftw)

 

Could someone help me with this?

 

Looking at the data stream on my obdii I noticed the 'short term fuel trim B1S1 was 099% and B2S1 was 000% - Any ideas if that could be related to a dirty ACV or something else?

 

I personally would just check the electrical connector and wiring to see if its wore or lost continuity for some reason. If thats fine then change the sensor

 

I checked the ohms on the tps, and that is good. Throttle progression was consistent on the ohm meter.

Not sure how I can test the AT part of the tps because it shows in the book #34, and 35 (iirc) leds on the AT connector. Problem is, Im not sure which one is which because you have to unbolt the AT unit connector. Then there is a whole lot of leds.

Is there a way to test the leds on the AT part of the tps without going thru the interior unit connector?

If the continuity tests are bad, does that mean it's bad on the AT side? I wasn't sure if I was doing the continuity test right because I touched the correct led on the tps, then grounded by touching the TB bolt to ground. Got nothing. Yet, testing the volts on the female connector, I got 5.10v.

 

no one knows how to take the outer part of the cage/ball axle assembly joint apart?... i need to put a new boot on it... its my daily driver!!

 

nope, it's much easier/wiser to swap the whole axle.
The FSM should show how to take apart the axle though

 

I am in the middle of a clutch/ flywheel swap and i am having a clearance problem with the new fidanza flywheel. I took the crankshaft position sensor's "toothed ring" off the stock flywheel and put it on the new fidanza and when i try to bolt it back on to the engine the "toothed ring" rubs against the side of the block in at least one spot. Do i need to shim the new flywheel? What should i use to shim it...(i cut out the center bolt-hole part of the stock flywheel out and it looks like it may work)? What are the tolerances that i am dealing with as far as: 1. How far can/should i shim it out? 2. How important is weight balance of the shim(s)? Any help is greatly appreciated._Matt_

 

I got a spring like noise from the rear when I took a corner the other day. The back is bouncing alot. Does that mean I need new struts or springs in the rear?

 

never mind, thanks for the attempt though.. i managed to do it.. my dads tight on money right now cause he had to buy a bunch of stuff for his car in the previous month, and now the axle went... i will be replacing the axles with new ones in the summer..

another question, once and awhile his car fails to start.. it would start, but then sputter and stall immediately. In order for it to start, i would have to put my foot on the gas. This only happens sometimes.

It does feel like, when i drive, that its pulling something really heavy, but in reality, its not. So somethings holding back power. I've flushed the motor twice, added a new fuel filter. You guys can hate on me, but my dad hasn't replaced the sparkplugs/wires since we got the car in 2001.. i will be doing that, but do you think that would be the initial problem?

My dad is a cheap pollock and doesnt take care of his car, so im bugging him to do it. Is there any sensor or whatever, that would make his car run like ****?

 

Hello everyone. My name is Travis and i have a 96 5sp max. i decided to do the DE-K swap a few months back and STILL havent been able to get it started..

My set up:
01 DE-K Motor
96 5sp tranny
96 flywheel, timing ring clutch etc.
96 ECM
96 IACV
01 TB and TPS
96 CPS
96 CKPS POS
96 CKPS REF
no egr
Knock sensor resistor mod.


So heres the deal... when i go to start it, it cranks and kicks back.. It tries starting at 20*, and sometimes im able to get it to start up.... When the cars running, the idle is up and down( not at a consistant RPM). the scanner is telling me that the timing is around 50-60*. i have reset the ECM multiple times, and no codes have came up yet.. i wasnt sure if it was a bad scanner, so i unpluged a coil and it showed up with an ignition failure code..

i was told that the Crank position sensors were the same for 95-01, however the 01 ckps (under crank pulley) has the wiring coming in on the opposite side than the 96.

So for the past week I was thinking that maybe I didnt line up the flywheel to the crank properly. But would it make a difference in this situation since the timing rings from 95-01 dont have any marks(all teeth equally spaced and sized.) i remember see in a thread that pmohr has seen this problem a lot when people do clutch jobs. Is this only for the 3.5s?

Any help would be great.. i hope pmohr sees this post and has some ideas.

 

^^^ just thought i'd add that theres a sensor that is unplugs at the top of the tranny towards the back( speed sensor????)

 

Ok, Hello im new to this forum. I have down quite a bit of work to my maxima mostly to get it up to par, its about to roll over to 285 thousand miles and I have replaced the engine mounts with energy suspension, all energy suspension bushings in the front end, all new kyb gr2 struts around, deleted resantor and added flowmaster just because it was cheaper than stock, sounds decent, blue leds in the meters, a 10 inch alpine in the trunk facing out the arm rest hole, all new tires, and got the se 5 spoke rims from a 97 at a junk yard, new front axles, all new rotors and brakes, new e-brake cable, new calipers for the back, k and n air filter and 300zx fuel filter. valve cover gaskets replaced, the car is now in decent running shape needs some body work because i have had a hit and run which put a nice dent in the front had ply wood drop off a truck land on my back bumper, the guy I bought it off ran through a fence, and my brother hit a curb going 60 so thats the reason I got the new to me wheels from the junk yard.. dissapppointing its a auto, its also a gxe I believe because its pretty base which is fine by me, really I like the car overall been thinking about swapping for a truck but the gas mileage and power is hard to beat and it drives good.. But here is the real question. When im driving it and just babying it it seems like it has a range where the power lags and just feels like it has no get up if I punch down on it its fine, and randomly on occasion it will sputter and sound and feel like it is going to stall out at any time then will finish its spurt and be fine for hours.. any Ideas what this might be I appericate it and thank you for reading this long message and enduring my spelling errors.

 

The FSM says the 'Ignition Condenser' tests over 10M ohms?

I tested it, and I got odd readings. I tested it one time, and the ohms stared going up till it went off the charts.

The next time I tested, the ohms started at the highest point, and went down from there.

Is this thing variable?

 

thanks now i see why i cant post my parts

 

Hello I'm a 300zx owner but have been trying to help my father with his 1998 Maxima. We replaced the knock sensor, replacing every gasket we came by and changed the spark plugs as well. After starting the motor it had a rough idle and if revved the rpm's just fall and the car usually dies. To my experience it seems like a vaccuum leak but I can't find anything. Help please.

 

UPDATE on TPS adjustment:

I got a #3 code from the on board AT diagnostics,

tested the TPS with the revised method(NTB99-053a) using the Closed Throttle Position Switch(CTPS)(right side) instead of the TPS variable output measurement(left side),

Turns out I had continuity on both feeler gauge thicknesses (.012 & .016 in),

So I adjusted the TPS so I had no continuity on .016 in thickness,
Now the tranny shifts smoother and picks a better rpm, to shift at.

I haven't checked to see if it's still getting the #3 code for TPS trouble, but for now, it's a lot better running.

Quick Question:

Would a 'Junk Yard Fuel Injector' cause a less than perfect idle? I had the front middle bank injector go bad, so I replaced it with one from a car with 160k miles, from the pick n pull. Mileage is good, and the car runs smooth.

The issue is at idle, in gear, say at a red light. Idles around 650, and it's just barely noticeable. In neutral, I can't really tell, the idle seems smooth. In reverse, I notice it moreso, but only slightly more than when in drive.

 

double check everything. make sure you hooked up the IAC correctly

 

Hello. I drive a 1995 Maxima and recently had a bunch of work done at my local Kelly Nissan dealer in Chicago. I'm talking knock sensor, o2 sensor, fuel injectors, etc. I was reading the paperwork and was floored when there was a comment saying that I was using 87 octane gas instead of 93 octane gas which is causing my car to misfire. For as long as I have been driving, I have been using what I thought was premium 93 gas from Shell. I've also been recommended this from a tech at Orland Park Nissan. When I told him that I've been using 93 premium, he looked at me like I was crazy.

Is it really my gas from Shell that is causing issues with my car? I always make sure to use premium gas as suggested by my manual and by the gas cap. All these years I've been thinking that I was using 93 while the techs at Nissan are telling me that it's 87? Thanks for all future replies if any.