It could be a TPS issue, it wouldn't necessarily set a code. It would have to be an intermittent failure though.

Check the harness, make sure there isn't an intermitend short or break between the IACV and the ECU. If all else fails, I would try another ECU to rule that out.

 

I replaced the faulty starter after my initial posting and that problem is resolved. Starting perfectly. The buzz however is still present. For all I know it's been there for a while but I hadn't noticed it 'til the starter problem. Anyway, the sound is emanating from the area of the starter -- perhaps in the rats nest of vac hoses above it, or even below it (tho I have no idea why it would come from the A/T with the ignition ON). It's noticeably quieter on the alternator side. If the weather holds up I'll try to poke around and see if I can isolate it further.

Thanks!

 

Hi Folks,

So my wife calls me this morning, car broke down on the way to work. The mechanic calls me and says that the crank pulley is broken, and the "inside piece" flew out and wiped out the alternator belt in the process. Alternator and all other components seem fine. He's quoting $280 for a replacement unit from our local Nissan dealer.

Is an OEM pulley or an Unorthodox pulley the way to go? It's the same money either way from the looks of it. I need to make a decision in a couple of hours, any input appreciated!

Vehicle:
1996 Maxima GLE? v6
140k+ miles
knock sensor, o2 sensors, exhaust, and other parts already replaced.

Please reply to @ at gmail.com

Thanks,

 

If you're going to post here, you're going to get replies here. Honestly if you can't come back to the thread to check it and expect everything emailed to you, then don't even bother posting in the first place.

Price is about right, it's ~$210 from Courtesy. A lot cheaper just to get a used one on here, though.

No reason to go with a UDP, you won't see any worthwhile gains.

 

Wow, thanks for the reply, I think?

The reason I put my Email, was so I could get a reply while on the road (on my phone, while driving to the parts store) scouting out a solution.

I'm not after gains, I was after a better part than OEM for the fix. I'd trust milled aluminum over a cast piece that flies apart when the rubber hardens and cracks. I was curious if this was a common thing for older Nissan/Infinity vehicles, or if this was a fluke.

In any event, appreciate the feedback, consider it case closed.

Thanks,

 

I recently posted here about my steering wheel shaking at highway speeds.Well, its finally fixed. At first I didn't think it was the tires because I had swapped the brand new front tires to the back and old tires to the front. An alignment didn't fix it, but 2 (used)front tires and a high speed balance did. So who ever has the same problem should start with tires and a balance and go from there. And another tip:don't send the wife to get a tire balance for you. That's what I did at first and problem remained. Go yourself and watch them work on it.

 

Ok so here are my 2 issues,

1, sometimes when driving down the road my speedometer just dies, then i hit a bump and it comes back on. this has been going on for a few months.

2, The other day i hit a bump with my rear defroster on and my car went haywire, i lost heat, no music but the radio was still on, no turn signals, no door window power, do speedometer, no abs, no fan power, and power lost to my clock. The headlights, brake light and cigarette lighter still worked. then i hit another bump and it all came back on, i did notice that if i have the rear defroster on i lost power more often.

Please help im thinking like and electrician and thinking its a thermal overload contact but i dont know if cars have them. thank you in advance and its great to be back on the .org!

 

new question

so i just got some KYB AGX struts and i was installing them in the front yesterday and when i finished the install i noticed my sway bar link was not attached to my control arm! i did re attached it and bolt it down but what would something like this cause to the car? could that have been the rocking problem i was having?

also i broke one of the top hat bolts.. i read about knocking the bolt out and replacing it wth another bolt. it not wiggling or moving at all. i tried moving it when the car was jacked up, i dropped the car and jumped on it and it didnt budge. then i drove it around the block, it didnt feel like anythign was wrong. but am i good with driving around on it?

 

This seems to be a common problem (I've had it on my 97 for several years now). I took the instrument cluster off and tightened the screws behind the speedometer head. This helped a lot, but didn't completely solve the problem. If you choose to do this, the procedure is laid out in the Haynes manual, and I can list the steps if you like.

Do you get a code for the vehicle speed sensor? I suppose this symptom could be caused by a faulty VSS circuit. When the speedo dies, does slapping the dashboard wake it back up? In my car, thumping the dash wakes the speedo back up so it doesn't seem like it could be the VSS, to me.

 

It's definitely the VSS. Cheap, and easy to replace. Common problem as stated.

 

Yes slapping the dash seems to work but now the all out power failure happens too ofter for the speedo to die, i think i got a lemon

 

Also I wanted to ask how hard it would be to knock that bolt out the top hat? It sounds ghetto but that's gonna have to do until I get paid.

 

Well i figured out the problem, and im kinda ashamed to say, but it was a faulty power terminal connection.

 

Hi here is a dumb question

Do our automatic transmission fluid suppose to look like new motor oil


thanks

 

No. Nor is ATF ever supposed to look like motor oil. It's supposed to be red.

 

thanks

 

Ok, so my SES light has been going off and on for the past couple of months. But recently I filled up at a WaWa's and drove my car home fine. The next day, I turn on the car, and at idle the car shakes like crazy. Ive come to the conclusion it might be the fuel I used messed up one of my fuel injectors? Or is it sparkplug/coilpack? BTW I have a 99.

 

Well did you check the codes? The light is trying to tell you something don't just ignore it.

Did you do any sort of diagnostics, like swap coils between a good and a misfiring cylinder? Ohm out the injectors?

 

well I checked the codes awhile back and it gave me knock sensor and o2 sensor. So I assumed it was that. I guess ill have to go get that obdII and check again.

 

You can check it yourself for free, just takes 5 minutes. It'll likely be showing you a misfire code now, pointing out the specific cylinder(s) that is causing your problem.

 

I have a 2000 Maxima, with 160k and I've been reading thru the maintenance threads and it says I should change the transmission oil atleast every 60k. I've been asking around and folks are telling me not to worry about it.

First off, it's a manual. and when it's cold first gear is tough to change back to when i get out of it.

What is the suggestion?

 

Wrong subforum.

Might as well change it out if you never have, throw some Amsoil or other high quality fluid in there.

 

Change it. Put in a good synthetic and it will work better cold.

Dave

 

Ok, So I need help with my cigarette lighter, I installed a Aftermarket headunit, and when I was putting everything back, I forgot the key was in power on, and the plug for the cigarette lighter sparked, and now there is no power coming from that cable, anyone know how to fix this?

 

Did you check the cig lighter fuse?

 

hey all, im new to the forum! :P

 

i have an auto btw.
i started the car today after a long time.
after taking it down the block, i stopped at a stop sign. i let off the brake, but the car would not inch forward. the car felt like it was in neutral. i would have to tap the gas up to around 2500rpm, than it would "thump" and the car would go into gear, kind of like shifting from neutral to drive.
same thing happened at a stop light. when i stop completely and take my foot off the brake, the car feels like it is in neutral, and i have to rev it up a little to get it into gear. if i give it a little throtte up to around 1500-2000, it is like i'm revving it in neutral. to get it into gear, i would have to rev it to at least 2500.
i also noticed that the car idles sort of low. at a stop light, it was idling at about 500-600 rpm. when i was going 60 on the highway and let off the gas on an off ramp, the RPMs was 600ish as if the car is in neutral, and than when i tap the gas it would go into gear and go to around 1100 rpm at 60mph with no throttle.
current codes:
p1105 & p0105 (MAP sensor?)
p0600 (A/T connection?)
p0400 (EGR valve?)
would this problem have to do with the p0600 code? is the tranny done?

 

?

 

yo i was thinking of buying a 1995 maxima with about 250000 on the body and about 85000 on engine and tranny it needs a new front strut from what i know it was used as a roadside company car for a while witch means it was mostlikely beat on alot and i was wondering if you could help me decide if it would be a good buy or not nd what the record for theses cars are any help would be good

 

so i was thinking about getting projectors from an org member....anyway to tell if they're good besdies of him having taking pictures of the cutoff line?? i have no clue about projectors, but i do know that a lot of common projectors are off of e46, rx330, tl and such. what else should i be asking here?? and i assume i can use any bulbs and ballasts that fit in the socket correct (note that one of the ballasts is bad)?? I.E. If he used tl projectors...do i need the factory tl bulb and ballast?? Or can i just buy some frmo the group buy (significantly cheaper) and basically have almost the same results.. I know i can probably search and find all the information i need, but this is just easier for me right now...-= )

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post6847969

p.s. how come this isn't a sticky anymore?? i had to use the search button to find this thread..LOL...

 

Looks to be a good deal. And yes, you can use any HID setup you'd like as long as its the correct bulb type.

 

i don't think the lights he's selling are retro'd with hid projectors since he's running a hi/low hid kit - might want to check that out. most projectors use d2s/r/c bulbs and have a moving glare shield for low and high beam - ask about that too.
headlights from the classified look a lot like ones sold by a company (can't remember the name) that makes i30 projector lights which have a halogen projector inside - not really made for hid.
anyways it's a decent price and you can get an hid kit with bulbs/ballasts for about $50.

 

Hey Guys,
I’ve been around the org for a while, but I’m still unclear on the differences between a 1997 federal spec maxima and a 1997 California spec one. I followed these steps below to determine that my car is in fact a California spec car:
I’ve read up on the differences between the federal spec and California spec 1999 Maximas:
But I’m still left wondering: What are the differences between the 1997 fed and California spec Maximas?

 

As far as what, exactly? Exhaust? Intake? Other emissions components?

I'm not really showing any changes for the Cali spec for that year.

 

Well I've been reading up on o2 sensors / simulators and have come across a ton of threads talking about the 3 vs. 4 o2 sensors and a lot of people were posting saying that "cali specs have 4", but then I finally stumbled on a thread saying that it's the 99 cali specs that have 4, not the 97 cali specs, so that got me wondering: What are the differences between the 97 fed and cali? So to answer your question, I was wondering about the exhaust/emissions components.

 

There are only 3 for the Cali spec '97s, as shown in the FSM and FAST.

 

It was -18 today not including the windchill , and there's this crappy road that I drive on with many of those man-hole potholes , I heard a squeaking sound coming from my drivers side wheel. What could it be.

P.S I got my car in August , and Ive only changed the oil once( like 2 weeks ago) everything else I have not changed is there anything I should change by now ?

 

Just your suspension. Is it original?

As far as needing to change something, do you have the maintenance history? If not, a few things couldn't hurt; plugs, fuel filter, cleaning the TB and IACV, etc.

 

Hi i just joined and i have a question about restoring some lost horsepower. I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima SE with 163k miles. its been a bit sloppy accelerating lately. just wondering how to get some of that horsepower back. thanks

 

Have you done a tuneup? Checked for codes? Checked for problems?

Are you just assuming it's lost power, or have you actually put it on a dyno?