Neither really. It boils down to which body style you like better. Reliability is about the same, although a newer car should be a bit better (less mileage and wear and tear)

All you need is a small flathead screwdriver. Gently pull the bracket with your hand while you stick the screwdriver in between the headliner and bracket on the left side of the bracket. Pull down and to the right gently. One side will be free. Repeat on other side.

 

Hi,
I have have a 95 2.5 Cefiro/ Maxima that had a noisy engine. Apart from that it ran fine.
Long story short, I bought a 3.0 Maxima for the motor. Motor swap done, the motor runs beautifully for about 20min, but then if over fuels. I have a diagnostic tool that shows everything is working. I have changed the O2 sensor. I'm going to try another revolution sensor today because when the over fueling starts the rev counter works intermittently.
If anyone has any ideas as to what I can check I'm all ears.

Cheers
D

 

Ok...im sure im retarded...but...

For the life of me i cant find the ECTS replacement procedure in the FSM. I'm sure its simple...but id still like to see it in step form before i just run out there.

(actually translated: i can get everything off....but putting back together is the worry. haha)

 

car off disconnect wire harness from ects sensor 19 mm wrench losen sensor remove install in reverse order then clear ur ecu codes make sure the engine is cool u dont want hot coolant spraying u

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-j9MNH8Ukpw

 

Could be... What's the actual problem though? Poor starting, dying batteries, batteries not charging?

 

What do you mean by over fuels? If the engine is flooding I'd check the fuel injectors, maybe one is bad. Since you did a swap though, maybe check the fuel rails/system etc too.

Seized caliper maybe? That would explain the pads wearing out quickly. Does your car pull to one side when braking? Also, when you put the car on jack stands, can you move the wheels freely (when the rears are up don't forget to release the parking brake)?

The ECU will need time to relearn/recover from the old knock sensor. It will take a while (maybe a tank of fuel) before things get back to normal. The knock sensor retards the timing of the engine when pings are detected from crappy fuel. It will slowly advance the timing as long as no pings are detected. If it detects a ping, then it starts all over.

 

What would cause the transmission to slip in 3rd only?

Does it when it's cold mostly, and going up an incline.

Could it be the egr causing that feeling? (My old 91 blazer did that because of the egr)

 

Caliper is not seized, car only pulls because of passenger side ball joint...my problem is on the driver side. I can move them when its jacked up, but it does take a little bit of force since they are the front wheels and they do have CV joints and such. I do hear a quiet noise still when they move though. Im still thinking its the rotor, ill check on Sunday.

 

Are you positive it only slips in 3rd? take it on the highway doing 60mph/100kmph and step on the gas in 5th gear, if it slips than its not just third. I dont beleive it should ever just slip in one gear, im no transmission expert but I have never heard of such.

 

You guys rock. KS replaced earlier today....no MiL for a few hours of driving....then popped back on before the ECTS swap. Now lets see if the codes come back...

Thanks again.

 

Hi all.
I have a small problem. A friend of mine borrowed my -97 maxima to get his camper home. He connected the electrical and something happened.
1. Right tail light is missing, bulb is ok.
2. All light in compartment (speed, rpm) is missing.
3. Main headlight adjustment is not working.

I cant find any broken fuse and have no idea of what can bee wrong. Hope anyone has an idea what to check.

Thanks in advance.

 

Thanks B_Eaze! I appreciate your help!

Joe

 

Thanks for all the helpful comments. I just got my '97 5 speed back on the road after 5 mos. There is an hesitation/bucking right around 2,500 rpm. I can "power through" the bucking by giving it a little more throttle, but it when the rpm needle passes the 2,500 mark, it does bucks again. Other than this it runs great. It has thrown a P1336 code, which is the crankshaft position sensor (POS). The code comes back on every time I drive it (after clearing). I checked the harness and sub-harness electricals, all ok. I could affect the severity of the bucking by loosening and retightening the sensor (which by the way is located on bell housing). My question is, before I spend $100 on a new CPS, does this sound like it is the actual sensor? The only other item the FSM says it could be is the flywheel. And I did just get through taking the crank pulley off (so I had to use the screwdriver in the flywheel trick to loosen the crank pully bolt) as part of a larger repair. Any thoughts/experience?

 

Sounds like you may have damaged the timing ring with your little screwdriver trick. FWIW there is absolutely no need to go jamming screwdrivers where they don't belong to remove the crank pulley bolt, that's one of the worse methods IMO.

Remove the CKPS, turn the crank by hand and watch the timing ring. If you've torn up the teeth or bent it severely, you'll need a new one.

 

I will peer through the hole where the CKPS was to look at the timing ring. Is the timing ring integral with the flywheel on 4th gen's or is it a separate part? What method would you suggest for a stubborn crank pulley bolt in the future?
Thanks.

 

impact wrench or a chain wrench with a old belt in the pulley put the chain wrench over the old belt and that will hold the pulley while u turn the bolt

 

The timing ring just bolts on to the flywheel (5MT), but is an integral part of the flexplate (auto).

Socket, breaker bar or ratchet, and bump the starter. Will break that bolt loose every time.

 

Hey guys, I have a question regarding the driver's side power window on my '99 Maxima SE. I've looked over all the topics that have already been posted on the subject, but I can't find a suitable answer for my particular case; Therefore, I'm hoping someone here can help me out.

A few months ago - I'd say June or so - I noticed that my driver's side front window seemed to be rolling down and up more slowly than the others, but I didn't really make much of it. In January, it stopped working temporarily, but then after a day, it rolled back up. Then last Thursday, it stopped working completely. When I press the button, it only clicks. I can't hear the motor working, so my initial guess is that my switch is bad. I have a couple of questions about that... first, how do I tell for sure that it is in fact the switch? Also, if it is indeed the switch, do I have any options to fix it, other than replacing the entire master window switch?

I would appreciate any help with this... I know how to get the door panel off, and the switch off... I just need some direction as to what I need to do next. I've had some chilly drives to work in the past few days, and I'm getting pretty tired of it.

 

My windows stopped working once this winter too, all of them... in a drive-thru... was a little embarrassing. Moving on, I suspect a grounding issue. Body grounds and such get pretty nasty after a while and need a really good cleaning. That will cause slow windows, dim (sometimes) headlights, crappy radio reception and some other things.

Open up your FSM and go to near the end of the electrical section. There, look through the pictures and their labels to locate the grounds. Once you've found them you have to clean them. You can try just sanding all of the corrosion off of the connector (some people sand the paint off where it attaches to the body too) or use some kind of corrosion remover stuff.

Also, after actually cleaning the grounds, you could try the 'Big Three' 'mod'.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...grade-how.html

That's a 5th gen one, but it's basically the same on a 4th gen. You could also just search the forum for 'grounding kit' or the like and you'll find some helpful info there too.

Check the FSM in the electrical section too for specific info about the power windows. I'd check to make sure that the switches work (check for continuity while playing with the actual switch). Then check to make sure that they're getting power and THEN I'd look at replacing the motor or whatever.

Good luck.

 

I'm sorry, I hate to sound stupid, but after looking around some, I have a couple of questions... but what exactly do you mean by a grounding issue, and what are body grounds? I know, I'm stupid, but at least I can admit it. Sorry. I tried looking at the fsm, but I had a little trouble reading it... help?

 

look at my profile i added a ground wire from batt negative to the tranny and that solve a lot of issues it in my pics

 

Well, thanks... but I'm not sure if that relates to the window problem?

 

thats part of the ground up grade in away they sell a ground upgrade that covers more than just my one ground

 

I have a 96 maxima with an auto tranny.
I am trying to replace the passenger side cv axle and it is stuck and will not budge. i have removed the 3 mounting bolts for the bearing mount and have even heated that mount with my torch and it will not break loose. any one have this problem or know how to solve it? Im thinking i should wield a slide hammre onto the cup that holds the bearing and use that to break it loose.

 

do u have an air hammer? that'd get it out. lol. that'd def get it out.

 

Hey all,
I have a 96 GLE with 216000 miles on it. I just had new tires and an alignment done to it. The tire shop said I needed new struts (They are the original struts). My question is: Should I put back OEM or go with better strut? I see prices from $75 to $200 per. I would like the best bang for the buck. Money is a factor.

Oh I'm going to install them myself with the help of a friend that has done struts before any pointers?

 

OEM Tokico brand struts are good struts.You just said you got over 200k on the originals right?.A step up from those would be the Tokico Illumina adjustable struts.Do not get those cheap Monroe brand struts from those local Autozone,Advance or any of those stores.They are crap and actually make your cars height higher than stock.Try searching the forum.There are stickies about replacing struts.

 

Yeah i can try it.

I was also thinking of drilling holes in the sides of that cup and putting a bolt trough it attached to a chain and my 20 pound hammer and swinging it liker a golf club lol

 

u dont have a pry bar? try to adjust the pry bar accordingly then hit it w a hammer to loosen it up

 

Ok, so I'm a noob - just got a 2010 Dark Slate Metallic SV w/Premium and Tech packages. Everything but the spoiler

So far so great, but how long do the Bose speakers take to break in? They seem a bit harsh, compared to whatever was in my last car (an 09 Lincoln MKS w/Ultimate Pkg.)

Thanks,

-John

 

This is a forum for Maximas 1995-1999. Speakers ...

 

I have a 96 maxima with an auto transmission and was finally able to get the passanger side cv axle out and when i was putting in the new one the mount that hold the axle in place with the three bolts snapped on me. any one know what this mount is called?

 

What is a good mounting hole on the tranny for the main negative ground?

 

my rear struts have went kaput and my babies tail end is all over the road when i hit a bump i need 2 know which r the better struts to buy 4 my 97 se

 

i bought some nokya bulbs, theyre 7000k. just regular 9004 plug ins, and one exploded. i didnt touch the bulb, im not that dumb. do i need to get the better wiring harness too?

 

Search the forum or buy tociko HPs and a set of H&R springs (that's a pretty one sided opinion but do what you feel is best). You could buy OEM but they're going to be more expensive.


http://forums.maxima.org/album.php?a...ictureid=14855

 

http://nokyausa.com/accessories.html

As per their website:

"We strongly recommend the use of an upgraded aftermarket wiring harness when changing to high wattage headlight bulbs."

 

just in case any one else needs to know it is called a "bearing support bracket"

 

The outter CV Boot is totally busted on the passenger side. I think its because of me hitting a huge pothole on the highway. I slowed down to about 40 mph but could not avoid it. if i were to stop i would have gotten hit by behind. Anyways:

Is this a hard job?

When I say its totally busted i mean totally. Is it okay to drive to school?

any tips and or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advanced!