My car is still stalling after getting it fixed twice. I just replaced my gas filter to see if that would help and it doesn't help. I have had my throttle body position sensor replaced, my intake pendulum, IACV, MAF EGR valve, EGR Guide Tube cleaned,and my EGR temperature sensor replaced. He said he check to make sure my IACV is working. I took to another gargage and he just said there is nothing he can do and I should wait until it happens more often, so I am now at the point where I just stop listening to mechanics and see if anyone else with this kind of car experience this behavior. I know my catalytic converter is going, but that should make it stall. Has anyone experience their car stalling randomly when they idle or at the stop light? I have a 1996 Infiniti I30

 

I had that problem a year ago in my 97 maxima. turned out to be 1 ignition coil. i already knew which one it was .replaced it and the car ran perfect.

 

Is there a year that was best or that I should stay away from? I'm looking for a 98 or 99 but want to know if the older ones are any better/worse. I'm asking as a whole considering all aftermarket options for the motor and whatnot. I know on the G20 P11's, the 99 was the best cause of the computer. Same kinda thing here.

Thanks

Z

 

I have a 1995 gle I am replacing the rear struts using monroe quick struts. The lower strut bolt nut just spins anyone have a good idea of how to jam this nut so I can get this job done. The other side had no problem.

 

Replaced mine not too long ago. Use a vise-grip to hold the nut. Use lots of wd-40. Try clamping the nut onto that metal bracket that goes around it. You have to get it pretty tight, there's lots of torque on that bolt. Just be careful unless you plan on replacing the bolt too. Good luck.

 

can a 1999 maxima engine fit in a 2001 maxima i need help

 

Could? Yes.

Why not just get the correct motor? You'd have to swap over both the upper and lower intake manifolds, at least the rear valve cover (both is best), swap over the EGR system and most other emissions components, the coolant log, etc.

 

i have two maxima the 1999 is wrecked with a good engine the 2001 motor is shot and i was just wondering cause the top ontake is different

 

I had the problem with the start a while back. I changed the starter and it was fine. Also, I had the same check engine light problem, relating to O2 sensors... but i used a O2 simulator box to get rid of it.

 

hey whatsup! i just bought a '99 maxima gle, and i was wondering if i wanted to do some wrok on it, what would i go for first?

 

So this mourning, was about to stall, so I parked and it didn't stall but it was barely idling, like between 450 and 250 rpms. So I popped my hood and disconnected my MAF and it start idling normal except it was around 900 rpm, but it was steady and didn't shut off. So is it safe to say that I need a new MAF sensor?

 

just put a ws SS y, magnaflow hi flow cat, and pacesetter monza cat back into my 96. all i can say is the thing is beast. definitely feel gains in power and the sound is great, a low deep growl. ill have to start keeping track of mpg

 

Newbie here so I guess I will just try posting here first. I just recently picked up a 97 GLE with 93k on it. I have just finished changing all the struts on it and will be replacing the tires on it soon as well. I do have a few questions and would like everyones opinion. I am thinking of doing Kumho Ecsta asx or lx platinum tires and wondering if anyone else has used them before. Keep in mind this is just a daily driver and will always be 100% stock as it is for my wife and kid. Also what grade of fuel do you guys use? The previous owner always used premo and full synthetic oil. I do see that it does say premium is recommended but does the pcm retard the timing if I just run regular or am I going to get knock? Is there a colder range spark plug I can run to help with that or what is the best plugs for these cars?

Another issue that I believe is fairly minor at this point is that from time to time it will have a longer than normal crank before starting. It always starts and doesnt miss or run rough anything but I was wondering if that is a common problem and if there is a simple repair. I will start simple and just clean the throttle body and decarb it. I know the newer models are notorious for those crank sensors as well.

Another minor annoyance is the clock display. It does not hold time and will intermitedly fade in and out and flicker. Im guessing its just a bad display but was wondering if there is a common fix for a poor ground or bad connection ect..

Also what is the best weight oil to run in the 3.0 engine?

 

Thats what the problem was---bad crankshaft pulley!! Thanks again for all the help!

 

Hello Group!

First, what a fantastic site. I am so happy to have found it. I recently purchased a used 1997 Maxima (3.0) with 135K on it. I love everything about it so far and am in the process of buying a repair manual for it (Haynes?) so I am can become self-sufficient with it.

Second, my apologies if I am not posting my first question correctly. I am quite the computer newb as well as new to the site.

And third, my question: Am I correct that the two radiator fans only come on when a certain temperature is reached or have I been given bad information from the previous owner?

Thanks to any and all that have a second to share their wisdom. I appreciate it and sorry if I am not following protocol.

Regards,

Mike in San Diego

 

Welcome to the site Mike.

Haynes is a pretty good repair manual. If you want a more comprehensive repair manual, get the FSM (factory service manual) for free (downloadable) or purchase from your local Nissan dealer.

Yes, both rad fans kick on at the same time once the specified temperature is hit.

 

I have a '95 Maxima that won't start. I already went through the threads and tried several things. A few months ago it wouldnt start and I replaced the ignition switch and it worked. Now it wont start again. I have tried replacing the switch again (from autozone-lifetime warranty) but it didn't work. I had the starter tested and it tested fine. The starter wont engage when I turn the key. All I hear is one loud "click" when I turn the key. Battery is good. Jumpstart had no effect. Is there a relay or fuse in line that would cause this problem? Any ideas would help.

 

Was your starter tested in the car, or bench tested?

Still sounds like the starter solenoid considering you've swapped the ignition switch. I'd take the whole starter out and get a few free tests done on it at various Autozones, PepBoys, Kragen etc. They've been known to mis-diagnose these things.

 

Great! Thank you so much for the quick reply and the manual suggestion. I didn't even think of the most obvious source.

Cheers...

 

It was bench tested. I had him do it four times and every times and it passed every time.

 

anyone?

 

This was an alignment issue. Apparently exacerbated by Grubbs nissan, perhaps intentionally, pressing the crankshaft pulley on a little further than specs. What caused this is perplexing and my best guess is a shifting of the adjusting bracket. Shimming, quite a bit, has solved the problem.
Nissan diagnosis was not correct, it was not the pump(s)
I hope this helps someone from installing pumps needlessly; as I have done.
Oh, and thanks for 'all' the help

 

Is it hard to replace the head gasket on a '95? I have an opportunity to buy one for really cheap and that's the only prob with it.

 

anyone have any ideas or comments for my previous post?

 

it was the solenoid. the grounding wire was a little loose. tightened it up. no more problems.

 

where can we get one of these free factory service manuals from on pdf?

I have a 98

 

My uncle gave me two street glow neon light strobes that he never used. I would like to put in my 98 Maxima under the dash. It says I can plug it into my cig lighter or hardwire it my 12v system. Does anyone have any experience with this?

I know obviously one wire will be grounded. but where to do I stick theo ther wire?

 

The Basic Info: I bought a 1999 SE 5 spd (cali spec) with 110000 miles three weeks ago.

Mods according to previous owner:
Injen intake
Custom exhaust
D2 Coilovers
Warpspeed Y pipe
B & M Short Shift Kit
Exedy clutch

Codes:
P0155 Oxygen Sensor Fault Bank 2 Sensor 1

Symptoms: A few days ago car would start, get to 1500 rpms for less than a second, then die immediately (even if I open the throttle). After two to three attempts of this it would just crank and not start at all. I am not worried about the oxygen sensor code because I read somewhere here that they should not affect startup.

The Catch: I was able to push start the car by popping the clutch. Ran it for 20 mins all through the rpm band, no misfire, no additional codes.

Attempted fixes:
Cleaned MAF, and TB, checked IAT, vacuum hoses,

as I continued troubleshooting when I checked the Throttle Position Sensor specifically the wide open/closed throttle switch portion, it did not pass the test according to Haynes Manuel (there was always no continuity regardless of throttle position.)

The Problem:I ordered a new TPS and when I came to the portion for adjusting the new TPS I found that there is a way bigger gap between the throttle lever and the throttle stop screw.

A .012 in. (.3mm) is supposed to indicate continuity at the CTPS

A .016 in. (.4mm) is supposed to indicate no continuity at the CTPS

My Gap is aprox .047 in. (1.2mm) way too big for the listed adjustment values.

The Question: Is there any way to change this gap between the throttle stop screw and the throttle lever besides adjusting the throttle stop screw (something I have read you are not supposed to do because it is set at the factory?)

I read somewhere that the throttle stop screw sometimes is adjusted after the install of an after-market clutch (aka the exedy) has anyone heard of this?

Why else would the previous owner adjust the throttle stop screw?

Would it be ok for me to adjust back to the values listed in the Haynes manual and is there anything I will need to change if I do this?

Despite this out of spec gap the idle was within spec 1400 -1500 rpm when cold 800-900 when at operating temperature.

I did search before posting and only found this link which seems to confirm the information in my Haynes manual.

http://www.lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A3...NTB99-053b.pdf

Here are some images I took of the gap with the larger feeler gap in the space (so you can see the extra clearance):





Let me know if I should include any other info and thanks in advance for any help/insight.

 

What is the switch located on the driver's door panel on the side of the armrest?



Seen here. Thanks!

 

That releases the trunk latch (at least it is supposed to)

 

It is a bit involved if you have never worked on an engine before... If its your first time, don't bother with it...

 

Search around the forum under "Service Manual" and you should get a link to it.

 

Thanks, I found it :-)

 

Getting the TP switch to read continuity with 0.012" inserted and to not read continuity with 0.016" inserted is all you need to focus on when setting the TP switch.

Looking at the 2nd picture you posted it appears the coolant hose is attached to the TB? If there's a gap between the throttle plate and throttle stop screw on a warm engine then you'll have to adjust that screw. I adjusted mine and she's now idling fine. Read over post 2 of this thread for instructions on 'Adjusting the Default Idle Speed':

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...gas-start.html

 

How do you program the homelink to work with my garage door opener?

 

95 all the way

 

That hose is the coupler for an injen CAI (from autozone guess the old one wore out with the previous owner). I read your linked thread the problem is I can not get the engine to start in order to get it to operating temperature, although by reading through it looks like a faulty TPS would not keep the car from starting... however what you are saying is that it is ok for me to adjust the throttle stop screw to the correct gap? That is once I can get the car started again and follow the instructions outlined in that link...

Again thanks for the help I guess I will keep on troubleshooting my engine cranking but not starting problem (apparently a common problem as I keep reading through the forums) and I will post back with updates.

 

If you cannot start the engine don't bother touching the throttle stop screw. The engine has to be warmed up to adjust the TP switch or to set the Default Idle Speed. You're right the TPS has no effect on starting the engine.

Unless you bypass the FITV/FIC (Fast Idle ThermoValve/Fast Idle Cam) you'll always have a larger gap between the plate and screw on a cold engine.

 

How new is the motor? If ya have a rolling code you'll have to get to it.

If not. hold the two outside buttons for around 20 seconds or so. Then hold the one you want to program while pressing the remote button till the light blinks rapidly. If it a rolling code there's a bit more I'd have to look up.

 

How did ya check it? I would guess MAF