ok so today my maxima decided to overheat my uncle is telling me to replace the thermostat i have enough coolant in the engine so tomorrow im going to replace the thermostat but if its not that what else do you guys think it could be

 

Been having a weird problem with the car lately.

When I crank it up in the morning, and let it sit to warm up, sometimes(totally random) it cuts off. I go to crank it back up, it cranks and starts to run fine again.

Sometimes when I crank it up after it stops, it takes a little more, and sometimes it sounds like it wants to hesitate a bit after cranking, but some fuel, and it's fine again.

Yesterday, I was driving it(car still not fully warmed up) and it drops about 500 rpms, seeming to stall, but it didn't stall. RPMs picked back up after 3 seconds.

Also, this random cutting off happens at a stop sign, like yesterday, 2 times. Then once I started to go, it hesitated, but with some fuel, it takes off like a rocket for a moment, then is fine.

Once the car warms up, the probability of this happening is very slim.

It's throwing no codes whatsoever.

It started this about a month ago, after coming back off the road. I stay out for 3 wks at a time, then home for 4 days. I keep the battery disconnected over this time, so it won't run down.

I do use marine stabil in the tank, because of the ethanol in the fuel, and the long periods of sitting.
Have been using it, months before this ever started.

Ever since Ive had the car however, it's had a minor issue with not wanting to start on the first turn key over. Usually 2 times, then it cranks, then would hesitate to idle up all the way, then few seconds later, it's good.

thanks

 

Hell, gentlemen i posted this problem a while back i have a 95 max. 155,000 miles the problem is when i start to drive it seems to drag when i accelerate i press the gas and i can hear the engine revving but the car would just drag in speed only when i slightly take my foot off the brake and back on again then i would go smoothly to speed. thanks guys in advance.

 

Thanks man. After swapping the outer tie rods, I still seem to have the wobble. I have the front end off the ground and when I grab the tire at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock it still has the same slack. So I was going to spend about $500 on new inner tie rods, LCA's, strut mounts, (I broke one of the studs on the DS mount installing KYB GR2's) strut bearings, and other random bushings, I found a 96 GLE with 130k mi on craigslist for $500. It was just painted and the body is really sweet. Same color as my OG max too! I will say I dont like the gold emblems and pinstripe, but I guess I'll just deal with it.

Im thinking I'll just stick all the parts from my beat to hell 96 in my new CL find. I dont really want to do the 5 speed swap again but I will eventually.

This leads me to my next question. My car has the snowflake rims and the new one has steelies. My front tires are toast and was wondering if the tires from the steel wheels will fit the snowflakes? Im picking the new one up on sunday and havent compared the tires yet. HAHA Maybe sombody here can burst my bubble on that one. LOL. Then I will be mad pimpin' pushin' steelies on the front and snowflakes on the rear. HA!

Thanks again guys.

MAXIMA.ORG FTMFW!!!

 

Check engine light on?
If so, than you first order of business is to pull the codes. Write these codes down and start reading the Stickies.

You could have dirty/going bad Mass Air Flow sensor. A can of MAF cleaner would be an economical place to start.

Check your tranny fluid, maybe drain the fluid and replace the screen and refill with fresh fluid. I think the screen and gasket are like $30-$40.

Good Luck.

 

Thanks will give it a try.

 

I need help guys. I have a 1998 Maxima with a major starting problem. My car has been hard to start for a while, but sometime I get black smoke when this hard starting occurs. I replaced my starter thinking that was the problem, but it made the situation worse. It did not want to start at all yesterday and then when it finally did start a huge puff of black smoke came out of the exhaust. It continued to start on the second try, but earlier this afternoon it wouldn’t crank at all. It turns over like it wants to start, but it doesn’t catch. I think too much fuel is getting in the cylinders and it is flooding the car. What could be the problem? Could it be bad fuel pump, injectors, coils? Could it be a bad head gasket? The car wouldn’t crank, but I did discover a pool of water under the muffler…I am not sure how the water got there because it didn’t crank at all. Any advice

 

Hi everyone, i have the hanes manual for my 4th gen maxima, but i was looking to see if anyone could link me to a write up of replaceing lower ball joints, and also if i could get a link to a "how to" on installing a short throw shifter. i found the link a few weeks ago, but i cant find it again. And one more thing, i was wondering if there was a write up on how to replace the Parking Brake cables.

If someone could help me it would be much apprieciated.
Thanks!

 

U check for any codes? Plume of smokes means u not getting proper combustion. Check camshaft postition sensor and spark plugs. U may have a blown head gasket but u wont know that till y get the car running and it starts to overheat.

 

Check the how-tos on the 4th gen page

 

Clean your MAF and TB per How-tos. U got classic symptoms. SEARCH and ye shall find

 

U either need to clean your MAF and TB or u need to swap tranny fluids. Fluid suppose to be changed every 30K. PPl dont realize that about our cars. The maintenance schedule is pretty aggressive.

 

i have a 96 maxima se auto, whenever its cold outside, below 30 or so. when i start the car in the morning and put it in reverse the car stalls out. i believe its due to the transmission, possibly torque convertor clutch solenoid. it has gotten progressively worse since i had the car, orginally the trans would chatter/shake when first put into gear in cold temps, and once its warmed up its been fine. when it stalls it actually chirps the tires and rpms drop, which is what has me thinking its the torque convertor being in full lock up and now allowing any slip. the easiest way to describe it would be with a 5spd car letting out the clutch at idle and stalling out. before it got to this point it felt like when not having enough rpms when releasing a clutch, but enough for it not to stall, but making the car shake/jerk. any info on this would be awesome! besides this the car is great.

 

Question about Homelink on the visor. I have a 97 and have read that some 97's have rolling code Homelink and some do not. Is there a way by looking at the visor buttons to tell if it is rolling code or not?

 

another question, after reading through alot of the FAQ help sections, i've known i had a bad knock sensor and have just been too lazy to replace it. from the one section i saw it was recommended to get the knock sensor from www.thepartsbin.com i see there is 7 different brands that pull up for a 96 maxima. is there a prefered brand? theres "replacement", "bosch", "standard", another "standard", "parut", "beck arnley", and finally "ac delco". are they all the same and just go for lowest price or has any particular brand lasted longer then the others?

 

I did not have any codes and it wasn’t running hot. This happened all of a sudden. I been having the starting issue for the last 8 months, but I replaced the starter thinking the situation would improve. It seem like somebody put something in it, but I cannot say that for sure. I had the oil light flash briefly at startup and I also had the brief timing chain rattle at startup. Every mechanic that looked at my car could not identify the starting problem. The car isn’t running, so I guess my only option is the Nissan dealership. I think it might be time to upgrade to a 5th or 6th generation. LOL

The new starter made the situation worse and my tailpipe is black. I don’t think I should invest anymore money because I’m scared of what the problem could be. I know the Nissan dealership will not be cheap.

 

i have had 2 4th gens in the past and never knew i could have so much issues out of them till now. i just pick my 3rd one from a dealer auction. a 97 SE (165k). right off the jump i noticed it was cutting off repeatedly while driving thru for bidding. when i picked it up, i find that it has a bad clutch (feels like when you let the cluch out it engages real slow) now i got the car home and it got real cold the car wont move at all and even worse, it keeps cutting off. it starts up fine and runs till the point when its supposed to settle to an idle and then it cuts off.i had codes for 1) absolute pressure sensor 2) MAF sensor 3) evap ccv. i have since replaced the boost sensor (which i believe is the MAP sensor. is this the same as the absolute pressure sensor) and the MAP sensor. i reset the CEL and it didnt come back on till i unplugged the MAF connector while the car was running (coincidence?) the car is still cutting off. went to clean TB and it is clean as a whistle (seems previous owner beat me to it while trying for a fix) TP sensor seems to work fine. i also replaced another sensor wrapped with a tape around the top of the engine cover (looks like a relay) i dont know what else to try and any kinda help in the right direction would be appreciated.
wow that came out long.
thanks guys.

 

Ghetto fabulous. Keep it real.

Pretty sure it's in the control arms are in the FSM. To replace just the ball joints you have to have them pressed out then have the new ones pressed in.

Any should do. I bought an OEM one from ebay for pretty cheap. Lots of people just pop super cheap ones in there and they're fine.

You should start doing research before you spend another dollar. Throwing parts at your car is only going to cost you money. A big hint would be that cloud of black smoke when you start your car. That means there is unburnt fuel in your exhaust, so much so that it is black. Check your injectors to make sure they're not busted (check voltage with a multimeter) or need to be cleaned or replaced. There could be one or two that are stuck open and and are just dumping fuel into the engine. Also, you might not be getting a spark. Did you notice the engine running rough before it stopped working completely? Do you have any misfire codes? Keep in mind that there might not necessarily be any if the ECU hasn't detected them for some reason.

Good luck.

 

Hey there all you max buffs.. I am new here to the forum and have a bit of a dillema. I have been trying to search high and low for an answer to my question. Here is the situation I have a 95 Maxima GXE that i need an ECM for. Here is the funny part the vin number says the car was manufactured (3/94) but it is a 95. The part number for the ECM is (A18-B42-EM1) with a DS as the identification code. I have searched ebay but all i find are the XC code ECU.. I need help fast, don't know what ECU i can use with the car or if i am just out of luck..

Thanks

aj

 

NAw MAN!

Listen, u can prolly lick this problem yurself. since the car is cranking that means u gettin signal to the engine to start. The engine isnt sending a signal nack to the computer to tell the car im starting up, i need gas. This can either be an mechanical or electrical issue. Thats the problem. Mechanical means jus replace a part and u good. Electrical means, replace parts and maybe wires too.

the sensors that deal with starting the car are the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft postiion sensors, Throttle position senssor, and then Idle air control valve. U need a multimeter and factory service manual to test the sensors.

If you havent already done so clean the MAF and throttle body. THat helps alot. Clean your grounds. Add a ground wire from the battery to the tranmission. Check plugs for fouling.

U have some work ahead of u my friend. Use the Search function on the org. You will find answers you need. And if u really get stumped, start a thread and be specific.

Good luck

 

ebay? naw man. u may have to scour the junkyards or if u want new: http://www.courtesyparts.com/

 

if the car wont rev past 2500 rpm thats classic MAF issues. Search the org and try to find the factory service manual. I have a link so PM me.

U may have a problem with your idle air control valve. the EGR CCV or whatever is the sensor on top of the engine they tapped up. The boost sensor is the MAP sensor IIRC or the sensor connected to the sensor is the boost sensor is the MAP sensor.

Get the CEL off. That will help.

 

thanks for the reply.
i have searched and searched but no one seems to have had something like this solved on here.
the motor revs to redline if you put your foot down. however if your foot is not all the way down then the car keeps reving up and down all on its own. (vroom vroom vroom) someone listening would think you were stepping on and off the gas.
like i said i went and replaced both the MAF and boost sensors. as well as the relay looking thing taped to the right side of the plastic cover on the motor.
i turned the CEL off and it didnt come back on but the car kept doing its thing.
i still gotta deal with the damn clutch after i sort this crapp out...
HELLLLP!!!

 

Sorry if this is posted incorrectly, here's my question.

I have a 1998 Maxima, Automatic, 127k the car pulls to the right "most" of the time. What I mean by that is at different speeds even with cruise control on it will pull to the right. It's been normal for me to actually keep the wheel turned slightly to the left to drive straight. However, when I first bought this car 2 months ago, if you let go of the wheel, it would just "JERK" to the right. And I mean it would just immediately go right. Also has a vibration in the steering wheel when driving above 60mph.

I took it to the shop for an alignment and here's what has been done since.

#1 - Both drive axles have been replaced
#2 - 4 wheel alignment done
total cost - $290.00

no effect, still pulled hard right

#3 - Replaced all 4 struts
total cost - $345.00

no effect, still pulled hard right

#4 - Replaced all 4 Rims and all 4 Tires
#5 - Had alignment done again
total cost - $750.00

This actually had some improvement. Started driving pretty smooth. Still have some vibration in the wheel and still pulls to the right but it doesn't jerk the wheel. I'm running out of ideas. Anyone have any thoughts?

#6 - New KYB strut mounts installed

no improvement

 

I hope this question wasn't asked being that I can't find it. I have a 97 GLE with 133k. The mechanics are stumped, but hopefully someone here will know. When I start my car in the morning(the colder it is, the worse the problem) the car starts, but immediately stalls out unless i rev the gas a couple of times. When i rev the gas it idles fine and doesn't give me problems until I leave it for 5+ hours (depending on how cold), and go to start it again. I've gotten a cold start solenoid, temperature sensors, and cleaned the valves. Any ideas?

 

I was wondering how difficult would it be to put a VQ30DE-K engine from a 2000 maxima to 96 maxima with a VQ30DE engine? Also if you would have to re-program the car's computer?

 

hi, me again... another problem with my dads car. I just got it to pass canadian emissions test. But now theres another problem!

The car won't turn over. I turn the key, and i hear one click. It used to try and turn over, but it'd slowly stop. But now it just makes one click sound. The headlights work fine, radio turns on, lights aren't dim. WTF?

could it be the starter? or the ignition?

it just never seems to end!

 

it could be a wheel bearing starting to seize? Or a bad ball joint?

 

This is how my starter died. If you're sure your battery is good, then most likely it's your starter.

 

i was thinking so too.. but we replaced it 5 years ago, Nissan did it.. and we've also been having problems with the ignition... Gotta turn the key a couple of times for it to start.

Where is the starter located on the tranny? underneath all the air box crap?

 

find out if your starter came with a limited lifetime warranty. either way u need to replace it. sometimes (trick i learnt while doing emergency roadside services) jerking the car back and forth a couple times while its in park or first might get you a start. just dont expect it to work more than once or twice. make sure to try a jump first (also learnt during ERS) as some (i think) freestate batteries just wake up one day and loose a cell or two, and u get the clicking when you try to start even though everything else seems to work.
as with everything DIY, try eerything free b4 goinf the pay route... goodluck
PS: search for the starter location/diagram. it is on the right side (facing motor) under the smaller box between the MAF and TB (i think)

 

okay i will try the rocking back/forth.. as for the warrenty, i have no idea.

i found the starter, and it is underneath the MAF.

 

I had the same kit of BLUES on mine,OEM "replacement struts" do not lower your ride ,but the BLUE SPRINGS- DO DROP IT just a little. That is true.I agree go back ASAP and get it fixed or go somewhere else.

 

Mine did that cutting off at stop signs when un-warm thing also,check your fuel filter,give your injectors a cleaning and check your altenater and battery, also put GOOD FUEL in it.( NOT the cheapest at the pump ) I did all that and replaced my plugs it ran like another car.-Good Luck

 

so I need to ask a serious question about KSport Springs for my 96 auto maxi. are they good? My Tokinco struts and springs went flat so replaced struts with OEM cheap replacements and now found set springs for $115.00 not sure if shipping fee. ARE THEY WORTH IT? if no,what brand should I research next? Thanks

 

Hi, I have a legitimate problem I hope someone could help me resolve.

So about a month ago I bought my 97' Maxima and since I bought it the check engine light has been on. I took the car in, got it scanned, and 2 codes came up.

P0105 - "Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction" and P0325 - "Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)"

I did some research on these, but not quite sure of some things. Should I take care of the MAP sensor before the KS because the KS might be a "piggyback" or "ghost" code? I can't seem to find the MAP sensor despite me looking at multiple threads. Here is a pic of my engine, could someone circle the MAP sensor? One last thing, money is a big factor due to my small budget so where and how can I get the parts cheap?

Thanks in advance for who can help me with this.

 

i have an 04 maxima.
i want the 07 rear bumper and spoiler.
are they direct bolt ons?
i imagine so, but not sure. also, i have that little **** squirt of a spoiler now on it btw

 

Look above. Do you see what subforum you're in? ' 4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)'

How do you expect us to know what mods will fit on your 6th gen? Post in the correct subforum.

 

The MAP/Boost sensor is located on the intake snorkel:


I would recommend actually doing diagnostics before assuming that just because there's a MAP code, that it means you need a MAP sensor. Failing that, you can get a MAP sensor easily and cheaply from a junkyard or the classifieds here.

Replace the MAP first (if that's the decision you come to), then clear the codes and check for the KS code later.

 

Will the 18' rims from a 2004 Maxima fit a 1998 Maxima? (like bolt pattern wise)