Okay so after doing a full tune up and fixing the oil leak on my 99 Maxima I am thinking that I'm going to upgrade my suspension. So my question would be what do you guys recommend as the best after market suspension? I am not the biggest fan of driving my car in a straight line i prefer real street racing type scenarios with turns requiring a tight suspension set up. Any help and opinions would be awesome.

 

You would save a bunch in labour if it was all done at the same, if it might need replacing soon then might as well do it now.

Did you search? There's a huge thread, probably linked in the stickies.

Also, street racing is illegal and dangerous.

If you want it slammed, get coilovers. I have Tokico Illuminas and H&Rs, they're decent.

Granturismo is not real life. Try replacing your bulbs. Sylvania is a brand, they have different intensities, etc. Grab a headlight restoration kit, it'll help make your lenses a little clearer. If that doesn't work or you'd rather get new ones, get new ones. Ebay, about $100-150.

 

ive been looking and cant find anything i swore that i saw a post on this once but what transmissions are interchangable with the 97 ive blown 2 and im looking for something with some strength

 

I'm new to the forums, i recently purchased a 1997 Maxima which i love , i had a chance to get a newer car but when i saw this baby my heart was set, pearl white, lowered 18' rims which looks awesome in it, body kit on the sides, master flow, cool air intake , black leather interior which is in pristine condition and HID headlights... there are some thins that need to be done but i could work with her.. like some fog lights but i found out that they are pretty expensive for this models, anybody know where to get some cool ones for a decent price? I'll take some pics of my ride to share with you guys, i hope the forum is not dead or anything...

 

Noobie here with a 99 Maxima (131K miles). About six months ago, coil #1 went bad so I replaced it and the car ran great. Well a week ago, my car started idling/running rough again and CEL light came on. Auto zone pulled P0300 code so I'm trying to figure out how to proceed.

My question is this, if several coils are going bad at the same time, will code P0300 show up since multiple cylinders are misfiring or will the specific code for each cylinder show up (ie, if coil 2,3 and 4 are bad, will the code for cylinder 2, 3, and 4 show up instead of P0300).

Thanks

 

If you do have a 97 as you stated, you should be able to find the fog lights for a reasonable price since they are still being made. If it has a 95-96 bumper on it, then those fogs are very difficult to find. You can either look in the 4th gen classifieds on the site or go your local pick and pull junkyard and hope you stumble across one with it.

The codes will show up for each individual cylinder. Since you have a 99, you may still have the set of coilpacks that were lemons. Swap them with any previous year from a junkyard or the 4th gen classifieds section on the site and you will be fine.

 

I have a question i am new to this forum and i dont really know how to use it. but im having trouble with my maxima. i have aligned the car 2 times and when i drive it the car goes to the right and the steering wheel is rotated to the left. mechanic says its not rack and pinion. mechanic fixed one of the bushings. i want to know what it can be.

 

I went to the junk yard and coundnt find one turns out its hard to see a maxima in the junk yard, but they said they had a pair new for $180 i was like wtf lol im considering sing the LED ones from ebay , maybe that would solve the problem

 

Thanks Trini.

 

Can I ask one more (yea, right ) question?

My a/c fan works at all four settings but at a given setting, the speed isn't always constant. For example, if the fan is set to 3, sometimes the speed increases for several seconds and then drop back to where it was before.

From the searches I've done, it doesn't sound like the fan fan resistor would cause this so is my only other choice the blower motor?

 

Change the resistor on the blower motor. They should be like $15. You usually know they are bad when the only works on 1 or 4.

 

Thanks Gamble.

The thing is, the fan DOES work at all 4 settings. The problem I'm having is that the fan speed sometimes changes without changing the fan setting. Are you saying that a bad resistor can also cause this speed change?

Thanks again.

 

Ya I know that street racing is illegal if you knew how to read you would have seen that it said scenario not that i was actually planning on risking my license doing fast and furious type crap. just looking to have some fun in my maxima and was trying to give an example of what i was looking for. Thanx for nothing

 

Hello all,

I am very much new here, so any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I've got a '97 GLE, and am so far loving it (first car! ), but I'm not really too fond of the 15" alloys that came with it. Thus, I've been exploring some alternatives to these, and came across some I liked for a reasonable price. They're off of another Max, a 6th gen (if i remember correctly), pretty sure they're 18"? Basically what I'm wondering is what size tires I should use. I want to keep the same total diameter, so my speedometer/odometer don't go completely out of whack, and I'm sure this isn't a tricky question, but hey - I have no idea, so why not ask some people that do? Thanks in advance for all your help.

willdrumforfood01

 

Use the following link. This will tell you exactly what to run to keep your speedometer in check. In general, just google "tire size calculator".

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos

Welcome to the org.

 

hello people i have a 99 maxima. i have alinged the car 2 times and the car still pulls me to the right when driving. the steering wheel is rotated to the left. i need to know what can be wrong. please give an answer.

 

Exactly which bumper do you have? Can you tell the difference?

 

In terms of troubleshooting that issue, the resistor is the cheapest thing which is why its suggested first. If that doesn't work, then its your blower motor getting ready to seize up...unless you can regrease it which I haven't done and I don't think its possible to disassemble the motor.

 

Has the car been in any front end or side collisions by the fender in the past?? If so, that can be the problem if the frame wasn't completely straightened out properly.

 

If the car drives straight and the wheel is turned the shop can fix that by adjusting the tie rod ends.
If the car pulls to the side on normal driving, first make sure you are on a highway or FLAT road. Side streets have a crown and it will pull. Also the easiest thing to check first is the tire pressure.

 

As far as I know you can use 95-99.

I'm going to assume you're talking to me, since you didn't quote anything.

If you didn't get anything out of that post, then maybe I'm not the one with the reading issues. Try reading the post again.

Also, don't be a jerk, that's not what this forum is for.

Are you lowered? I don't see why the mechanic would not be able to fix it for you. The others have given good advice. Do you have new tires? Are they wearing evenly?

 

Hi All,

Just acquired a 95 Maxima SE in very good condition with 237,000 miles on it. It drives nice, but has one nuisance issue.

When I go to start it, if I let the key sit in the on position for any length of time (even 1-2 seconds) before I go to crank it over, it sometimes (probably 25% if the time) just clicks and doesn't turn over. If I go back to the lock position and go straight from lock to start (without letting it sit in ACC or ON), it cranks and starts without fail every single time. Battery is brand new, and I have no idea what's causing it.

It may be a coincidence that it only seems to like going straight from lock to start, but that's the way it seems to work. I have a habit of turning the key to "On" for a few seconds before cranking a car over...probably left over from using diesels with glow plugs and some older vehicles that only seemed to like to start when you gave the fuel pump a chance to kick on.

Any ideas?

 

Hey I have a question about my bose radio system in my 01 gle. I just bought the car and realized I have no sound coming from my speakers. I noticed the amp had been taken out so I bought a new one and put it in and I still have no sound?? The radio seems to be working fine but I just can't get any sound out of the speakers. Is there another amp in the car that I am missing? Any help would be greatly apprecaited thanks!

 

I am going to say that your ignition switch is going bad. Replace it....located under the steering column and cost ~$40.

 

This is a 4th gen forum from 95 - 99. You need to post that in the 5th gen section.

 

I have a 1999 Nissan Max the blower resistor block is bad. It is- in the back of the resistor rectangular in shape with a metal box around the resistor with small air holes for cooling. I have tried all the parts stores and no one can identify this part for me. I went to the junk yard and got one but I think the one I got is for a car with climate control so it don't work. Can anyone help source this part and part number this Nissan was manufactured in Japan. The old one have four pins but only have a three wire connector going to it. Cpttrevor

 

Usually people recommend (on this car) letting the fuel pump prime a second or two. It does sound like an ignition switch. There's a write up somewhere fr a fix. Basically, you put a piece of tape inside it to take up some slack from wear and tear. You could also buy a new one. It's not super difficult to do.

I've never heard of the resistors for auto and manual climate control being different. It should be a creditcard sized piece of metal with a plug on the bottom. It's located under the glovebox. The location is in the FSM.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/27077-r...-p-189543.html

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1822_1839.html

 

Your mech is right. At that high mileage u shd consider replacing the flywheel. However, unitl he opens the car he wont know if its worn or not. I think he is tryin to juice you.

My advice, go to autozone and see what a new flywheel looks like, but dont buy. then when the mech removes the tranny go look at the flywheel urself and see what it looks like and then decide. The flywheel shd be ok but u can always replace it for new if u want. Think its like 80 bucks.

Make sure he or you cleans the mating surface of the tranny and engine or u gonna have hard starts

 

tokico blues kit. Or if u want adjustability and a slightly better spring get the tokico illumina struts with springs that are a lil more aggressive than what is included in the kit.

 

If u gonna stick with yur max...save yur money and buy a new tranny from nissan $2500. they got reman for $2200. See if u cant negotiate the price down to $2000 for new.

 

take trini advice and swap em all out. one by one they gonna die out.

 

take the car to diagnos. yur mech shd have been able to fix or maybe the car been in an accident.

 

i will get pics posted in a couple of days

 

You could also search, like, google or something.

 

I did a few searches and couldn't find an answer (could be eluding me), but I have a 95 Maxima SE that had bad head gaskets. I tore it down and took the heads off, got new gaskets and went to put the heads back on today. When I was in the final torque sequence I heard a pop from the bolt I was putting a 90 turn on and then it would not tighten down. When I removed the bolts the heli-coil in the hole came out with the head bolt.

Now the question is, is this heli-coil easily replaced, where can I get it, or if it's not replaceable am I stuck getting a new block?

Thanks for any help!

 

You can buy them at a hardware store. Say you have to drill a rusted out bolt and everything gets all messed up (you can't put a new bolt in). You get a heli-coil set, drill a hole, use the heli-coil thing and it's pre-threaded, it just goes in the hole. Probably just need a new one, although if the current one came out, might need a slightly larger size?

 

Are the VG's normally like that, or did someone go through and drill the head bolt holes and coil them? I mean it looks factory to me but I have never seen a VG with the heads off. Just making sure I am not cleaning up somebodies mess from a previous overhaul.

 

Hey guys, serious new guy here. Anyway I've exhausted the search function and can't find a more detailed response so I thought I'd give it a shot here.

I'm trying to replace the brake-light lamps in my 1997 Maxima S30 Touring (Australian delivered) but I just can't seem to work it out. For reference, the rear end looks like this:



The reverse lamps are easy; they're just those twist-and-pull sockets. But for the life of me I can't work out how to get to the brake lamps. Do I have to pry that whole "Maxima" panel across the trunk lid off to access them? Or just the lens covers?

I made an attempt at getting the whole panel off and despite removing all visible nuts inside the trunk lid, it still feels like it's very anchored down and I really don't want to force it any further lest it break (as I'm trying to sell it).

Edit: Okay, got the panel off. But how the **** do I get the globes out?!

 

How to test a compressor on a 95 max to kno if its working

 

Hey guys, I've got a 95 maxima. I pulled three codes out of it today, EGR solenoid valve, Engine temp sensor, and knock sensor. I reset the check engine light, and took it for a quick rip before. Started her up dead cold and she busted outta my driveway quick ran fine, I let my dad take it out after that and the car sounded like **** again. By the way, it runs and drives like ****, too. The tranny never misses a beat, but the car bucks whenever serious torque is needed. It seems to get worse with decreasing outside temperature. Odo is at 225.6 but car easily has over 300k on it, original motor and tranny. I'm kinda looking at this engine temp sensor first, it seems to run much better cold than hot. Let me know if you guys have any good suggestions for me, willing to try anything at this point.