This could be an easy issue or a hard issue to fix. Lets first hope its not the tranny:

THe throttle position sensor (TPS) is a sensors that is located on the throttle body. It detects the position on the gas pedal and sends a signal to the comp to deliver the right amount fuel to the engine. If it is malfunctioning, the car will not know how much gas to provide or when to downshift.

The Drop resistor (DR) is a device that works with the TPS. It tells the car to shift gears. It is located on the driver side strut tower. If it is broken the car will not shift properly.

The shift solenoids are the valves that open and close under command from the vehicle speed sensor (VSS), TPS, and DR. These are the valves that PHYSICALLY shift gears for the tranny. There are 4 solenoid valves for each gear. If one of those are broken then the car will not shift into that gear. (this is the worst and prolly as costly as replacing the tranny altogether). I dont think this is ur problem. This would throw a check engine light (CEL)

My advice:

First clean your TB and MAF per the how tos. If they are dirty the car wont run right and may buckle under light throttle. THis is most likely the issue.

If that dont work, Get the FSM and test the TPS, and tranny gear function.

Or it could be the DR.

hit up: http://www.courtesyparts.com/ for geniune nissan parts.

PM me if u need FSM.

 

Question guys, and I'm sure there is a post somewhere in the forum (that I am unable to access right now bring a newbie) that shows how to change the Water Pump on a 96' Maxima ... the hubby and I want to do the job ourselves, but have been told it's a huge job. We were quoted $500.00 for parts and labor $400.00 for just labor.

 

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=68

 

Hi everyone! Im new here. I just joined today. I have been using this site for years to fix my Maxima. But I could not find an answer to my current problem in any of the forums. I need to figure out if I have a halfaxle, differential or transaxle problem.

I own a 1999 5 speed Maxima with 149,000 miles on it. I replaced the half axles 4 years ago (AutoZone) and the passenger side bearing and hub last month.

I also had to add almost a gallon of transaxle oil because it all ran out. (the shop that pressed in the new bearing said it was because the old bearing caused the axle to flop around causing the oil to leak out.)

The bearing was really bad. The whole inner part had turned to dust.

But after I replaced it, it still felt like I had the ebrake on when driving.(that started before I replaced it) I can hand spin the rear wheels freely, and the front wheels also turn by hand.

If I run the engine in gear with drivers side wheel in the air, it runs normal. But with the passenger side in the air, I get a slight wobble, and the car feels like it wants to take off.

When I try to drive it, it feels ok at 5mph, but when I hit the gas, it feels like I'm also hitting the brakes. The faster I go, the more it feels like I'm plowing through sand or something.

If anyone has an answer or knows the right forum to point me to, I would really appreciate it!

Thanks!

 

I was doing a routine inspection the other day and noticed that there is a slow leak from the camshaft position sensor, the sensor is filthy , but I was just hoping the there is nothing internally wrong with the camshaft that is causing it to leak....thanks

 

I installed a head unit about 4 years ago in a '96 SE. Worked GREAT. About a year ago the radio protion of the head unit started getting static-y. A couple months later it was more static than music. And a little while after that it became silent (no static or music). Every once in a while the antenna will start to pick up a signal but only when it is really dry and if im stopped (I live on the gulf coast so low humidity is rare). Is there anyone able to help me with this? Im tired of driving to my CD's, I want the radio.

 

Just got my 98 maxima about 2 weeks ago.I was cruising through my neighborhood, raining pretty hard. Coming up to a stop sign, I put the car in neutral to come to a stop. I put the car in first, my car dosen't move. Clutch dosen't grind, the pressure on the pedal is still there...no clutch smell. I try 2nd, reverse, 3rd, 4th, 5th...nothing. Car just sits like it's in neutral, revs up ALONG with the speedometer. 30 mins earlier, I put a tiny bit of PS fluid in the reservoir, but I highly doubt it contributed to this issue. The mods are a y-pipe, catback, and intake if it helps. My brother, who had a 98 s/c max 10 years ago, suggested it is the clutch sensor.


I attached a short video of it, my SD card was acting up and I could only record a short clip, what a horrible day. My decade old maxima having a problem, no big deal. My 6 month old Canon DSLR camera acting up...WTF.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2kOEmOgz8Q

 

I'm gnna try lifting the car up and inspecting my axles

 

If anyone is actually following this, I lifted the car and inspected the undercarriage....saw this.

 

I just bought a 95 Maxima for my daughter and realized, after I got it home, that it has a security system but I have no key fob. I also noticed that someone un plugged the horn. Do I need to take the car to a dealer to get a new key fob? Thanks~

 

hey guys. i just got the clutch put in at the shop but the car still wont idle.
*quick recap* got the car from the auction ...found out it has a bad clutch and wont idle.
when u start the car it starts and runs during fast idle after fast idle it cuts off when it settles to idle.
replaced MAF and MAP/boost sensors but still no good... cleand TB still no good.
any takers? if anybody in the DMV area wants to look at it over some beers im game.

 

short answer= no
just get a replacement fob and look for the procedure to program it on here... pretty straight foward. but then you should look into and after-market one cos the stock ones are quite the crap... IMHO
*edit*
if its already an aftermarket one in there then just go to a auto entertainment/tint shop close to u and get a replacement fob programmed.

 

any chance u already check to make sure the antenna (my life and spellings) is still plugged in good at the back of the radio? if it is then it may be time for a new head unit?

 

I originally thought that. But then the radio came back (with static) and so now i am at the beginning. I was thinking a loose connection at the antenna.

 

im noob here and i cant seem to figure out what i am doing wrong. i have 1995 nissan maxima and recently did dek swap and the motor cranks (i had to bypass inhibitor relay to get it to crank) but does not turn over. the check engine light does not come on when key is in on position. i replaced the fuel pump and the relay just in case but i still have no fuel going to the fuel rails. i disconnected the fuel feed line before the fuel filter and its dry no fuel. i have power from the ecm to fuel relay and also goin to fuel pump but i dont hear the fuel pump turn on either. i wanted to check the grounds for the pcm but i dont know where they lead to in order to check them. please help.

 

good looks man looks like i got something to do tomorrow
one thing though it knows it has to shift but when it tries to downshift during low rpms it bucks, like it can't physically downshift. Thats why i thought it was a tranny problem.

 

I really hate to keep having to use this thread, but this time I think I may have a serious problem. So this morning I turned on my car to heat it up to prepare for an almost daily 25 mile drive. Around 1/3 of the way my transmission starts upshifting exceptionally hard in first gear to second (Much harder than usual (The only gear that was slightly rough before they all started upshifting hard)), a little in second to third, and very little in third to fourth. By the time I got to where I needed to be I realized I had to move my car so I restarted it. Upon startup my overdrive light on the dash flashed at me multiple times and shut off with the CEL coming on shortly after. I haven't checked codes because I have to go to Chicago today, but hopefully this could be resolved without me having to get a new tranny.

Also, if relevent, two weeks ago I checked my transmission fluid and it smelt more acidic than it should (I had a shop visit schduled next week to do a tranny flush). I also cleaned my MAF, TB, IACV, and EGR three weeks ago and got codes cleared for the KS and MAP (KS needs to be replaced, but I know won't trigger CEL. Not sure of MAP sensor as of right now.) Everything was running great up until today for the exception of my negative and positive connections to the battery that keep coming off...

Please help, and thank you to whomever can help me w/ this.

 

I have a 1999 Maxima Cali spec with a 5 speed with about 172,000. About two weeks ago cylinder 3 misfired and I replaced the corresponding coil. The car then began throwing code P1320 Distributor Signal Interrupt. Changed the remaining coils and plugs. Still throwing code P1320. Changed both crank position sensors--still throwing the flipping P1320 code. I've about had it and may sell the car. Any suggestions?

 

Hey Im new to this site and just bought my first 4th gen maxima. You can make fun of me all that you want but I dont even know where to begin with this car. I guess what I am asking is where do I begin? I've read alot of things on this forum about mods but dont know where to start. Please help me if you can any advice would help.

 

Hey Im new here and I just bought my first 4th gen maxima. Ive been lookin around and I guess my biggest question is where should I start. I want a quick fun reliable car and I plan on this being quite a long project so money isnt that bigga deal I just need some help and advice on where to get started. Thank you and sorry Im such a dummy.

 

there is some stickies up top for what to do.


personally, I'd go with a y-pipe/intake first off.

 

Start here:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html


Maintenance first THEN mods.

Buy a HAynes manual and download the Factory service manual. PM me if you need the link to the FSM

I tell Noobies all the time. to start reading the stickies. They are a wealth of good information. There is NOTHING you can do the 4th gen that hasnt already been tried. So use the SEARCH function and get your read on. If u cant find the answer u lookin for than start a thread.

 

Look at my thread. I want the same thing.

 

yo man, 1999 max is notorious for bad coils. U need to test it to see if the coils or ECU malfunctioning. Typically its jus bad coils. DId u get replace with old or new coils? Get coils from a earlier year max.

 

If your OD light flashed u got tranny issues. Check the FSM for OD flashing code reader. PM if u need FSM.

 

My car is been acting wierd lately, when I give it gas it doesnt take off like it should then it really kicks in, and when its in Drive or Reverse, it shakes a little. Finally, sometimes it feels like it shifts kinda rough from first to second. Im assuming this is a Transmission problem, but could somebody please give me some pointers on some specifics. Ill take a 800 dollar fix over a complete trans overhaul if thats what it takes. Any advice or responses is/are greatly appriciated. I drive a 98 SE btw.

 

Intake, Y-pipe, Exhaust, test pipe, 00VI, headers, Pathfinder throttle body, Tune in that order.

 

Yes, it whines when reving and it gets higher pitched. But the tank for PS fluid has not gone down at all. And the car sounds bad just sitting still and running, but I am thinking that's because whatever has leaked or is leaking is all over the belts, etc. And steering isn't an issue....no issue when wheel is turned or whatever.

Something is actively leaking because it is leaving drips on the garage floor, but dang if I can find any fluid reading that's low....

About to sell this baby and move on to a truck, but I really love my Maxima...

 

Hello to all.
My problem is this: i have a 95 Maxima that used to stall but restart. now, it has died and will not start. I went to check the power to ecu by using the diagnostic function. I noticed there was no light illuminated. Check fuses and such.
I have read many forum post and it seems the power to the ECCS Realy could be the culprit. WHERE IS IT? No one has posted as to where to find it. I have looked at the 3 boxes under hood. One next to the battery (fuses), one in Front of the battery (relays but no ECCS) and the one on passenger side (relays but no ECCS). I have average electrical schematic abilities and troubleshooting. I need help locating to try and trace back.

Also if ANYONE has info as to past problems with this system, owuld GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. Car cranks, fuel pumps activates, and I also hear what i believe is the IAC operating (sounds like a lil motor activating when I turn on the key)
Also, could it be the ignition switch?

Please help
Blessings to all who have read!
TYIA
Chuck Butler aka ulremember

 

I bought a keyfob off ebay for i think $15 or so, came with programming instructions. That's the best/cheapest way to get one.

 

This might help, guy shows how to remove antenna on 4th gen. He has several useful videos.
http://www.youtube.com/user/boredmder#p/u/9/1LfMi91hB30

 

Ok first I wanna say thank you for replying and helping me out. Again you can make fun of me all you want but idk what 00vi means. And my engines apparently burning oil pretty bad so I might be in the market for a new one. Do I go dek or save up and go for the 3.5 seeing as how I wanna change the trans anyway. Sorry I'm new to nissan and some of the terminology you guys use is very foriegn to me I was doin a honda crx project before this and now I'm sellin off alla that to work on my maxima, a much nicer car I might add, after all is said and done nissan beats the crap outta honda. Anyway any help would be amazing sorry for havin so many noob questions.

 

Need to know what this is? Do I need to replace it right away?

 

inner tie rod boot. not really.

 

I have a 95 max i replaced the knock sensor, and im still gettin the knock sensor code

 

First check the connector going to the sensor for corrosion. You can use electrical contact cleaner on it, and a small screw driver to scrape the contacts. While you are there it cant hurt to chase the wire, and look for damage. Mainly crimps, and melted spots.

Testing a known-good sensor wouldnt hurt if you have access to one. It is possible to get a DOA one.

 

Salutations,

This is a strange minor issue.....when using the auto lock on drivers side and/or the key less remote, it locks all doors except the passenger's side side.....any ideas or suggestions?

 

Is it trying, and kicking back, just moving part way, or is it doing nothing? Can you manually move it?

Searching for cases like yours shows that the common problem is the actuator. Doesn't surprise me consider the time of year. The only other option is a loose wire, or the lock is binding. Depending ion what is happening when you hit the button.

 

Hello guys,

I think I have got a possible automatic transmission problem this night.
The engin starts and run just fine, but when I try to engage any gear it will not engage.
If I move the gear **** to any position "R", "D", "2" or "1" and hit the accelerator pedal the engine revs up but the car just does not move.

Do I need to replace the transmission?

Maxima 1995 A/T

 

Could definitely be doa. I bought a KS off ebay and it was doa. Got my 2nd one from carquest and its been good for 6 months now.