Yes, I do have good power coming through it.

 

Well if you're getting power in but not getting power out...

 

I'm trying to find a rear bumper lip. Can anyone help me out? I've got a 98

 

Ok new on here and having a hair pulling problem with our 99 maxima, ok we'd been having a very light miss here and there. so replaced the plugs with new NGK's(exact same ones that were in the car), now the miss is 10 worse, but it's very intermittent. Put in the old plugs still the same. took the car to autozone to get the codes pulled and came up with
p0325-knock sensor
p0300-random missfire
p1320-ignition signal
p0139-o2 slow respons bank 1 sensor 2
p0138-02 high voltage bank 1 sensor 2
p0400-egr function

now the last 3 codes and knock sensor code the car has had for a long time(over 3 or 4 years), and the car has ran perfect. So the misfire and ignition signal are new codes. I've spent the last couple days checking everything. Now the misfire does not happen when first running the car, it takes about 10-15 mins before it will pop up, and then it misses at idle, and when cruising under 2500 rpm's. I've unplugged one coil at a time when it's missing and can tell a difference when each coil is unplugged. I've checked the output voltage from the maf at idle and it's spot on. Checked idle fuel pressure and it's 34psi, sprayed hoses with water to check for vacuum leaks and no rpm changes found. Checked grounds, and power to cam, and crank sensors. Checked resistance of cam sensor and it's at 2500 ohm(mitsubishi sensor), so that's right in range.

I really need to get this misfire fixed but without throwing money at new sensors that may or may not fix it. Any ideas? of where to go next?

 

A '99 with a miss and P1320? Get yourself a set of coils.

 

Hello all,

2nd post on this forum. My Max is in a bit of a spot right now. When I go to start her, the starter motor turns, and spins the crank, but will be stopped intermittently. When it does start, it coughs and sputters and I have to step on the gas to get it to go over 200 RPM, at which point a puff of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. I have replaced all of the spark plugs (as of yesterday), and also tested all of the ignition coils (from + to Ground, and Vice versa). Here's what I got for values:

1: infinity, 6.32 M.ohms
2: infinity, 6.82 M.ohms
3: infinity, 6.77 M.ohms
4: infinity, 6.72 M.ohms
5: infinity, 7.08 M.ohms
6: infinity, 7.54 M.ohms

Now, after it starts, it runs perfectly fine - nice and smooth, plenty of power, and no lag on the throttle. So, SOMETHING is creating a flood condition when I go to start it. From here, I'm conjecturing that it might be the Throttle Position Sensor, or possibly something to do with the EVAP (I have a check engine light with an EVAP leak code, had it checked yesterday).

Any information you may be able to provide would be insanely helpful, because my Max is gonna leave me stranded if I don't fix this ASAP. Thanks everybody.

willdrumforfood01

 

@pmohr,
SO on a 4th gen, I can pull a used pass side axle from an auto and use in 5 spd? I want to replace my 97 5 spd axles, but don/t want to buy crap and don't want to spend a fortune. I'd rather go find a junk yard and pull it my self.

Do you know what's different between the driver side A/T and M/T axles? if they are the same at the wheel (probably), maybe I can just rebuild mine with parts from a not so damaged A/T axle.

Thank You.

 

Yes, all passenger side are the same.

I don't know if the shaft length is different, but the inner stub is different between 4AT/5MT. All of the axles are identical at the wheel side.

 

95 maxima died when crossin the light in traffic checked crankshaft camsensor everything no luck then check fuses under steering wheel none where blown but spot number 4 was giving off 4 volts when everything was 12 NEED HELP ASAP car turn over like it wants to start but just doesnt fire up smh

 

Having Ac problems on my 95 max. Im adding freon but the compressor is not engagin. But when i bypass the compressor it works and the ac starts blowin cold. At first when i tried addin freon the whole 12oz can wasn't goin in and i vaccum the system out before so i know it was empty. And the only way the freon goes in is when i bypass the compressor. I changed the drier switch, and the sensor on the evaporator core. Cause i took it in to the shop and i was told it was those two sensors and the compressor was leaking but i changed all 3 parts the still nothing.

 

i have a 97 se 5spd with 291,xxx miles and my question is how do i get the speedometer and the gas guage to work. is the problem the guage cluster or is it something else? this is my first maxima and i am really enjoying it but i would like everything to work lol

 

Well after the 6th time having the damn starter tested it finally showed its true colors. I tracked the entire ignition system and everything checked out. So I pulled the starter for a 4th time. They tested it again it tested good. 5th time it was a little slow and 6th time finally quit on the machine. Thanks for your help but sometimes you just gotta go with what ya know. Good thing is that I know that all my wires, connections, and relays are good. Just sucks a starter is $120.

 

I just finished changing out the bearing on the AC clutch,wasnt too bad a job to DIY
but the bearing was $135. $15 of that was overnite shipping .local parts place wanted $350+ for whole cluch assembley. So if anyone knows of a cheap place to get bearings please post it up... The bearing I used is NACHI 40BGS11G-2DS
The OE Bearing was NSK & the Guy couldnt get one anywhere...

 

I have a 99 GLE with approx 125000 miles and the codes 0201 ignition signal, 0608 cylinder 1 misfire, and 0304 knock sensor. I have the knock sensor to install I just haven't had any luck getting that stupid bolt to loosen up. I have had all the coils replaced over the past 4 years and all new plugs this time last year and so I am confused if these two codes together indicate another bad coil or something else. I have been trying to find some directions as to how to change the coils out myself but all I can find is how to test them so if anyone has a link to a coil How to like the knock sensor one that would be great!

Also the transmission was never serviced on this car so it was recommended to me to not have it done now. I siphoned some of the fluid out of the resevoir and it didn't smell burnt or look burnt but was a darker reddish pink. I did replace that fluid with some fresh but it didn't amount to much. My transmission shifts fine except 1st to 2nd seems a little rough sometimes but in searching it seems like that is normal for the Max. Am I correct?

Thanks for helping!

 

96 GXE

Q: Does anyone have a tutorial on how to install tie rods, and how does one determine if they are worn out.

Reason i'm asking is because I went to have my car aligned and the mechanic said my tie rods need to be replace.

Any help will be appreciated

 

Clean TB and MAF. Replace ECTS

 

I dont like the fact someone told u not to replace the fluid. Here is my stance, cuz i always change me manaul tranny fluid:

Every lubricant breaks down after time no matter the brand or quality of product. So lets say, its been driven 100,000 miles, do u really think that the ATF has the same lubricitiy properities as when it was new??? Hell no. Thats why it supposed to be replace.

The person who told u not to replace it sd that cuz it possible that through wear, some shavings are in the tranny. WHY THE HELL WD U WANT TO KEEP METAL SHAVINGS IN YOU TRANNY? How can that be good??? It isnt.

THe FSM says to inspect fluid every 15000 miles. There is also a note that states, if driving on rough roads, replace (not jus inspect) fluid every 30,000 miles. That is a very aggressive schedule for a reason. These trannies require regular fluid changes. Change it or not, its up to u. I wd.

If you car is slamming hard into 2nd, its not a tranny fluid problem. Your drop resistor is going. Cost 60 bucks from nissan. Good luck,

 

remember son, when u bench test a starter u are testing it with NO LOAD. THat means its easier for the starter to spin when being tested. of course it would spin. BUT, as soon as u put it on the car, it wouldnt spin. Sounds like a blown starter to me, especially if u got power and all u hear is CLICK. Good luck

 

U will have to remove the instrument cluster and prolly resolder leads for speedometer and fuel gauge.

 

'96. A few newer problems, could be related or possibly not. I'm under the assumption that they're both electrical.

Something keeps draining my battery super-dead while it's sitting (last week fully charged it on Sunday night and by Tuesday afternoon it was too low to start). Tried replacing the battery and it continues. Checked the normal interior appliances (lights/radio/wipers/signals) to make sure I didn't accidentally leave something on and came up with nothing.

There's a clicking noise coming from the relay area. I noticed it when I went to try to recharge my battery today. If I take off the cover and lay my hand on top of them some of them are vibrating moreso than others in conjunction with the clicks. Any ideas?

Googlefu led me to the term "relay" for what I was referring to but I was unable to find anything helpful via search function/FAQs. Likely because I'm really not sure what to look for.

 

I was told the metal shavings were needed to maintain the grip in the gears and by flushing the old fluid and adding new might create shifting problems that are not there now. And it is not slamming into 2nd but just shifting harder into 2nd than into the other gears as you can feel it whereas you can't really feel the others.

As far as the misfire/ignition signal codes does anyone have any insight on that?

 

thanks man

 

Check the belt that connects the alternator to the engine. should be on the left side near the coolant reservoir. Well, that is my GUESS because I had something similar happen, but can someone with actual knowledge help him out please.

 

A mechanic said I need to replace my tie rods, but I don't know how to do this.

I know how to get to the tie rod end, and also put a boot cover on the tie rod when my old cover ripped,

but as far as replacing the actual tie rod, i am clueless.

And I also wanted to know how do I determine if my tie rods need to be replaced??

Any help will be appreciated.

 

I got code P0130, which as I understand it is the bank one sensor one oxygen sensor. Where is this exactly located? I also know it's an upstream sensor. Does anyone have a picture of its location? I'd imagine it is a pre-cat sensor, but I am not sure which pre-cat sensor it is. Any help would be appreciated...thanks.

-Colin

 

I accidentally posted this in 3rd gen I have a 4th gen max(99)

I have what is one of the weirdest problems, a stuck door. I know exactly what the problem is. There's a little c shaped deal that hooks onto the frame, this is what keeps the door shut(not locked unlocked). Pulling the handle releases it, however my problem is that mines lost a little spring or something and it's now stuck in the close position. I managed to remove the panel with minimal damage and I've tried to get to it, the other problem is that it seems to be housed in it's own little container. No getting to it from inside the door. It's a mechanical part it's not the locking mechanism or linkages those seem fine. The only way to get to it would be from where the door meets the frame, friggin impossible.

Quick recap there's a hook bolted to the frame and if you look at your door there's this little C shaped deal that hooks on to it. When closed it turns into an upside down U. Seems it's spring loaded so when you pull the handle it releases it back to C position. Since the spring seems gone, when you open my door by latch nothing happens. This is not a lock door problem but a closed door that wont open. Is there a tool that may work in turning this little hook back to open position?

Note: When the problem first started the door would not stay closed I was gonna rope it shut till I figured out how to fix the problem, but when using the locking mechanism it somehow inadvertently switched the hook to the closed position. While messing with the working door I confirmed that it is indeed a spring that's missing. Pulling on the hatch releases the deal that holds it shut and lets it revert back to C or open position.

Sorry ops

 

Before u replace the sensor, try some chevron techron in the fuel tank. Sometimes the sensor gets a film of dirt on it and cant read as accurately. Chevron can help to clean that right up.

 

need pics man. which door we talking bout? U might jus need a new door handle

 

98 max
I recently took out my coil packs nd it was drenched in oil..the spark plugs are dry..well theres no oil on it..but some of my coils do..I wanna know if I have to change my head gasket..or just my vavle cover..my boy that usually helps me with my car said its just the vavle cover..I just wanna make sure

 

I have a 99 GLE with approx 125000 miles and the codes 0201 ignition signal, 0608 cylinder 1 misfire, and 0304 knock sensor. I have the knock sensor to install I just haven't had any luck getting that stupid bolt to loosen up. I have had all the coils replaced over the past 4 years and all new plugs this time last year and so I am confused if these two codes together indicate another bad coil or something else. I have been trying to find some directions as to how to change the coils out myself but all I can find is how to test them so if anyone has a link to a coil How to like the knock sensor one that would be great!

Any help?

 

The ignition coil is pretty simple to replace. I cannot recall seeing a how-to for this. A wire harness connector, 2 bolts and pull it off. The wire harness connector is probably the hardest part.

The ignition signal and cylinder 1 misfire are probably (no guarantees) because of a bad coil pack on cyl 1. If you want to experiment before laying out money for a new coil pack, swap cyl 1 coil with either cyl 3 or 5 and see if the 0608 error code changes. 0606 for cyl 3, 0604 for cyl 5.

The knock sensor code may not be legitimate. We call it a "ghost code" because it tends to show up with other codes. When you fix the other problems, the knock sensor code is gone too. Changing the knock sensor is a pain. The smaller your hands, the easier it is. Here is a list of how-to videos, one of which is the knock sensor. The video will make it look easier than what it is.

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_lis...E3C3345DC2C64F

 

What's up guys, Peppy here with another question: what are some key differences between the first generation Infiniti I30 and our A32 Maxima?
All I really know is that they share the same engine and the I30 is apparently 2 inches longer (not sure if that's a good thing or bad thing). Anyone got the time to educate me? Cheers

 

Its the valve cover. The metal tube that surrounds the spark plug is part of the head and the valve cover has a seal in it that goes around the end of the tube.

 

Thanks DennisMik. I was told when I had the plugs replaced last year that the knock sensor was bad and they wanted to charge me almost $500 to replace it which was almost twice the charge for replacing all 6 plugs! I asked if it was an urgent repair to which I was told no so I told them thanks but no thanks. However I saw the how to about replacing the sensor so I got an OEM one off of ebay and I do have fairly small hands but that sucker is on there so tight I can't believe the old sensor didn't crack in half when they bolted it on. Several shots of Liquid Wrench and many days of fighting it with my racheting socket wrench and still it won't budge.

My main concern with replacing the coil myself was if I would have to remove any engine parts to get to them. If it is as simple as plug and play then I am pretty confident that I can do it. I just was hoping to see someone else do it first maybe in pics or a video. I will check out the links you gave me and go from there.

.

 

As to the transmission flush and being told not to flush it since it has approx 125,000 and has never been serviced (as far as I can tell) is that correct that it might cause more harm than good? I have been told that and also read that in some of the posts on this forum. I don't have any hard shifting issues except into 2nd and that is mostly when it is cold. Once she is warm she shifts pretty smoothly through all the gears. I just don't want to create a problem where there is not one now.

 

U jus need to replace valve cover gasket. It should come with teh spark plug gaskets tool. The gaskets only fit one way.

 

+1 on this. 99s are notorious for bad coils. hit the JY and see if you can find a coilpack from a earlier model

 

Read the FAQ stickies. the information is all in their bro.

 

Okay nowwww I see it. I should really take the time to check the FAQ! Thanks cashoit! (I'm probably gonna get booted from the thread for thanking you)

 

whos car is this? I am loving everything about it and have been searching to find who's it was..