yeah man, sounds like whoever put in the radio didnt tape off all the wire or even may have tried to wire the dimmer to the aftermarket radio. Dimmer doesnt need to be wired to aftermarket radio. Check wires and make sure they are ALL taped off with electrical tape. If they are left exposed they can create a circuit while u are drivng and blow the fuse for the dash component lighting.

 

im having trouble understanding yur problem. Need more info and better description. Any codes? where u get the substitute tranny? any warranty?

 

Its a used compressor so it already had oil and i put in an 12oz can of refrigerant. I ran a wire from the battery to the wire that plugs into the compressor thats how i bypass the compressor

 

Ok so i've been having some problems with my car dying at low idle or trouble starting up in general, it sounded like she was runnin kinda weak and i know it hasnt had a tune up in a while so i decided to replace my spark plugs, well when i got to the back 3 the first one was covered in oil....then the middle one was DRENCHED in oil??? Im fairly new to workin cars and my 95 maxima is my project car ive been lookin forward to for a long time!!!! my first thought was maybe the last person who did the plug/coil pack change didint tighten them enough??? so i cleaned em up n let it sit for a while.....bam she fires up beautifully!!!! but bout 10-15 miles later it starts all over again!!! does this mean a blown head gasket? if so is it a bad idea to just use some sealer for now cuz im a broke single mom with little to no money to stick into it after wut ive spent on it in the past 3 months....new shocks, battery, resinator was rusted 2 **** so i replaced it wit a straight pipe, plugs, muffler......any body with any ideas it would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!

 

I have my transmission out of my VQ30 and have noticed that there is a little bit of oil leaking from the rear main seal. I am wondering what I have to do from here to replace it. I have the flywheel off and see there are three bolts holding a plate that goes around the crankshaft but I don't want to start pulling it apart until I have an idea where I am going.

Thank you

-Danny

 

The spark plug tube seals are leaking, any decent valve cover gasket set will include them, run you ~$70.

Chances are it's the upper oil pan seal that's weeping, not the RMS itself, as leaks from the RMS proper seem to be rather rare. Either way, you'll need to drop the lower oil pan, which means either supporting the engine from above, or putting the trans and mount back on before dropping the pan (you have to remove the crossmember and both motor mounts to do the upper pan).

You should never trust that a compressor has the proper amount of oil in it, if it does at all. Did you evac the system before charging? Also, you put in roughly half of the required refrigerant amount, factory system calls for ~1.4 lbs (meaning even if there weren't another problem, it likely wouldn't engage the compressor anyway).

Bypass the pressure switch, see if the compressor will engage then. Jumping the compressor itself only tests the compressor clutch, not the entire AC control system.

 

Hey everyone, im new to the nissan world & i've been reading alot on these forums about a de-k setup & i was wondering what exactly this is? I understand it an motor setup but don't know beyond that. I have a 97 maxima SE so im interested.

 

the tranny was used from the guy i bought the car from. he had a spare so theres no warranty. its an automatic and at first i lost reverse. then i was driving home and it acted like it dropped down a gear so i limped it home and parked it. now when in Reverse, Drive, and 2nd it wont move. but if i put it all the way down to 1st it will drive like normal but obviously wont shift up. ive heard of this problem and people said it was the torque converter but when i talked to a mechanic he said it wouldnt be that and told me it might be the shift sensor. what else do you need to know? i really need help.

 

will an automatic trans from an 01 max match up with the engine from a 97 and fit in the engine bay?

 

The VQ30DE-K is from the 5th gen Maxima. Search and you'll find literally thousands of threads about it.

Electrically dead, the Maxima's 4AT will still have Park, Neutral, Reverse, and 3rd gear. That's with no electrical connectors hooked up. If it was a torque converter problem, the issue would also present itself in manual low, not just the rest of the shift positions.

You have a mechanical problem, either the trans is just toast, or possibly just a valve body issue. No real way to tell without exploratory 'surgery'.

Yes, the two are virtually identical. IIRC the valve body electrical is different, and may require swapping the whole assembly over from the 4th gen trans.

 

Thank you. I'll check it out, if I think it's the pan gasket I will put the trans back in first.

 

Hey guys, First off. Great site! I know I am posting in this thread to skip the 15 post question but that doesn't mean I won't be sticking around and as it says in the FAQ- Contributing to the community.

Long story short I have forever been a big tech/computer guy and finally wanted to try something new. I knew my maxima had potential and it looks "OK" but I need some help with my Front Lip Spoiler.

The front lip I ordered was used and some of the bottom tabs that you'd screw underneath the front bumper were cut which was fine Since I screwed it in anyway. Then I had to use real small screws and drill them into the sides of the front bumper because it WOULD NOT STAY. They look DECENT, aren't noticable and really hold it on there but when I look at all the other cars pictures, obviously no one seems to be doing it this way.

So now my question

How does everyone keep their front lip on while installing it themselfs? WHat is the best way! I've googled stillen instructions and it just says screw it in!

Be easy on me, I know nothing about cars and have no help from anyone else so I don't know what direction to go.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4449348_n.jpg

 

hi...1998 nissan maxima...i had not turned on my car for about 3-4 weeks...it was out of the garage in super cold weather...

i tried to start the car awhile ago...and the following things were noted...
1. car wont start
2. engine turns over
3. fuel pump does make sound when key is on position
4. when i press on the gas pedal...i hear a rapid clicking noise...until i let my foot off the gas pedal

any ideas would help...or should i be analyzing the typical potential issues...
1. fuel
2. spark
3. compression

 

New to forum and maxima's, but not new to Nissans. I just picked up a 96 Maxima 5spd. I have a few questions:

1. Besides normal maintenance, is there anything else I should look out for. I.E. Fuses going bad or sensors.

2. I have manual driver seat, can I swap in auto seats?

Any input will be appreciate.

 

Chasing an intermittent stalling, then hard starting problem.

Noticed a broken wire on this capacitor that looked like it had been arcing out on the fuel rail. Can anyone tell me what it does?



I have chased other hesitation / missing problems in this car, previously replacing injectors and coils, this one seems different.

The car is running better now, overall than it ever has, but intermittently will stall, then become difficult to start. It will do this sitting at a stop light, or just driving along. It will run rough and not seem to shift correctly, (overrevving the engine). Once restarted sometimes rpms will drop and it will stall upon being put into gear. Sometimes once being put into gear, application of throttle will result in little acceleration of the engine / vehicle.

I checked for vacuum leaks, found one cracked vac hose that I replaced, and suspected the fuel pump, so swapped for a j/y unit.

Today I found the broken wire, and taped it up.

I also topped off the coolant...

Then after firing it up, got this:


So tomorrow I'll replace that, drive the car and see what happens, I know that coolant is routed through the throttle body, but what does it do up there? it seems as though this leak could be keeping fluid from reaching the TB?

 

I'm pretty sure the item in your first picture is the capacitor that is in the +12volt supply line to the ignition coil packs. This is the red wire on pin 1 of each coil pack. On my car (a 97) that is taped to the wire harness where the wires come from. If it was the black wire that was touching the manifold, I question if it was causing any trouble as the black wire goes to ground. If the red wire was bare and touching, you would have a blown fuse and no power to the coil packs.

The coolant flowing through the throttle body is to help warm the air going into the engine. This is to help when first starting in cold temperatures. I have read in the forum that guys have disconnected the lines from the throttle body and don't really notice any difference.

 

a

 

Thanks for the response, it seems unlikely that either of those things is causing the intermittent hesitation / stall. I recently (about 2mo) changed the injectors(a couple were leaking, and was misfiring, figured it was best to replace them all w/ rebuilts from e-bay), When doing the injectors cleaned the iacv, tb, egr tube. also changed the spark plugs.

Maybe a week later, got another misfire with CEL (cyl 5 misfire), swapped the coil, went away.

Within the last couple of weeks this new intermittent stalling / hesitation problem began. The car will die, sometimes while driving, or when coming to a stop, or at a stop. Sometimes it will restart immediately and other times it will be difficult to start, sometimes when putting it into gear it will die.

I checked for codes and am getting a 34, knock sensor circuit. I swapped the KS w/ a jy unit, but haven't cleared the code. I've always thought this could be a 'ghost' code that can get set when the engine misses causing the KS to go 'crazy' It seems like it always had a code 34...could that be the problem here or part of it? maybe I need to address that first?

I am suspect of the MAF sensor, its just the way the car stalls and runs, its similar to when the MAF went out in an oldsmobile I used to have..I wish I could diagnose it though before dropping $200+. I cant seem to find one @ a j/y

Anyone recommend a shop / mechanic that is good at diagnostics in the Denver area?

 

1998 maxima auto 80,000 mis.
Loud humming noise from engine compartment while driving. Pitch of hum seems related to changes in engine torque load i.e, pitch goes higher when starting acceleration, and pitch goes lower when starting deceleration. Not familiar with autos. Anyone familiar with this? the cause?
thanks all.

 

We need to get a video of this noise to isolate and help you out. First off, I woulc check moving parts like axles for rips in boots, wheel bearings, etc.. When its in park and accelerating, do you hear the noise or is it only in motion??

 

96 Maxima 159,000 Miles

Problem: Sometimes when I put my car in reverse it will shut off. Check Engine light is on and has been on for a while. I just replaced the spark plugs yesterday thinking that they might have been the problem but it is still occurring. I'm thinking that this is a MAF problem after searching the forum. Has anyone else experienced this? Should I try to disconnect the MAF to see if it is the problem? If so can someone link me to instrctions on how to disconnect the MAF

 

How to disconnect the MAF? Press down on the tab and pull the connector off, just as most any other electrical connector on the car.

Have you given a thought to actually checking the codes? If the car is trying to give you information on a problem, and you're ignoring that, how do you expect to come to a proper diagnosis?

 

I was recently at Valvoline for a full-service oil change, and one of their recommendations was a Cabin Air Filter replacement. I said no at the time, because whenever I go to them and have more than my oil change done, I get screwed. Can someone tell me what the "Cabin Air Filter" is, if a 1998 Maxima has one, and how to change it? Thanks!

 

Hahaha good thing you said no to that one as the forth gen maxima has no cabin air filter.

They might have been trying to take your money!

 

I always just say no to them now, as they always try to push stuff I don't even need. I just go there, get my oil change and that's it. Any recommendations they throw at me, I have them put on paper, and I take them to my mechanic for his opinions.

As for another problem recently, when I start my car up, I get a high pitched screeching sound, which I think is related to the alternator. It's either the alternator or the serpentine belt. I say this because it will do it when I perform certain actions. I stop at a stop sign, it starts, and my lights get dim. After driving for about 30 seconds, it stops and power restores.
When I am driving, and I turn on my vents, same thing happens.

I thought that maybe it was my battery, as it had died a few times (after leaving just my radio on for no more than 20 minutes), and ended up replacing it. Problem remains

 

Just thought I would give my question a bump...i could use some direction on issue #4 (clicking noise when gas pedal is pressed)

 

The only code that came up was a knock sensor malfunction (P0325), so I ordered a knock sensor off ebay. I plan on putting the new one in this week. Any suggestions that would help me pass the test? If I successfully replace the sensor and clear the codes, do you think that will make for a successful emissions test? Thank you.

 

[quote=nate_man;7955809]Although I am not a newbie, I dont have enough posts to start a thread and need help on wheel bearings.

My Max has KYB EGR struts all aroung and 17 inch rims (not too big) but I have gone through wheel bearings rather quickly and want to know if there are performance sets out there to handle the additional suspension/tire upgrades or if there are recommendations on something stock that is better than cheap bearings out of china.

I had a 626 one time that would go to Autozone wheel bearings every 6 months or so. A buddy of mine said his RX7 had to have OEM bearings or they didn't last. I got a set from Mazda, and had no more problems for years til I sold it.

 

I had a 626 one time that would go to Autozone wheel bearings every 6 months or so. A buddy of mine said his RX7 had to have OEM bearings or they didn't last. I got a set from Mazda, and had no more problems for years til I sold it.

 

You are correct. Its either a pulley on that side of the engine or its the belt itself. Prolly just need to replace the belt.

 

Have u tried to jump the car? Hope u are using engine oil suitable for colder temps. But if its that cold shouldnt you have a engine heater?

 

It could help replace the KS. Chevron Techron in the fuel tank will help too. Might need to use 2 bottles if u never used it before.

 

[quote=MaxLuvaD;8001031]what kind of springs u using? Wheel bearings dont usually fail all that often. lots of ppl have rims and no problems. There are no performance bearings. Get OEM.

 

i was looking under my car(99' I30t) and a saw this:



im thinking it has something to do with my check engine light being on.
i also wanted to know if i can get my rpo plate decoded.

heres the codes i got:
P1447 - evap purge flow
P1448 - vent control valve
P0138 - 02 circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2
thanx in advance.

 

We don't have RPO codes, that's a GM specific thing. What information are you looking for, exactly? It only tells you things you already know; color, engine, 5 speed or automatic (yours being a VLSD 5MT), etc.

Replace the vent control valve (the broken valve on your EVAP canister). Also looks like you could use a rear O2.

 

Thank you. I will have to check into that more carefully and get back to you.

 

thanx for the info! the reason i wanted to know the "rpo" thing is i dunno if i have traction control or electronic suspention. i went to auto zone for new rear struts and they asked if i had electronic controlled suspention, and i was trying to see how much a PS front axle and the guy asked if i had traction control. f%$k if i know, ive only had it for less than a month, and im still learnin.

 

For the passenger side axle, it doesn't matter; they're all the same (auto, 5 speed, open diff or VLSD). The only difference is in the driver side. But yes, you do have a 'locking' diff (as it comes up in most parts stores).

Also, no A32 has adjustable suspension, not in the US. Surprised that came up as an option for them to choose.

 

I'm a noob to this site. I have a 4th gen. max. I need help as I am not an electrician. I turn the key and get nothing. I've pull the starter 3 times having it test out good each time.Checked all the fuses I could find. All the relays I could find. I have power to the starter solenoid. I have power to everything in the damn car. Is there something hidden anywhere that would prevent my iginition from getting any response from the starter? I've torn down my iginition to check that and also done a neutral safety check. Both are good. I'm about to shoot the damn car and Chiltons is worthless in my book tonight. Any takers for answers?

 

If you turn the key and nothing happens, then forget the starter, that has nothing to do with it.

Are you getting power into the ignition switch (white/purple wire)?