yes, its definitely not the fuel pump. i've actually had the mechanic diagnose the issue, there's a leak in one of the fuel injectors and so I lose fuel pressure when the car is not running.

unfortunately i cannot afford to fix this, so i'm just looking for a workaround to manually run the fuel pump first, get some fuel in the engine, and then start the car.

 

sorry in advance for the long post
I have a 95 nissan maxima with a/t and i believe is not lsd...last night when i tried to leave a store reverse would not work so i pushed it out...then when i put into drive 1st was not working either just started in 2nd...fluid was low so i added to full mark but didnt seem to help...took for a drive and manually put into 1st..would go but barely and wont rev above 2000 rpms in reverse or first and only moves in 1st not reverse...drove around block in 1st with no weird noise and then slightly more acceleration acheieved so i stopped and tried reverse again...nothing so i floored it and still only 2000 rpms in reverse then just as i let off accelerator pedal it kind of clunked and moved a little...tried again and now back to normal in all gears....now if you do floor it, it will go all the way to redline and shift a lil hard between gears so i try not to let it get this way but it has been that way since i bought it a month ago...i'm trying to get it looked at later today but want to know your opinions on this and if it's a common problem...also what options do i have for a used tranny that will fit...the pull and save has a 96 i30 which i know fits as long as its auto and non lsd but what other options,altimas maybe or lsd...just need to know options so i can have a back-up...can't really afford a rebuild right now
thanks,
lonnie

 

also just read that a quest may fit,which would make me think a mercury villager would as well...does anybody know which a/t's are a direct fit with the 4th gen maxima? the local wrecking yard said they show only 95-99 maxima and 96-99 i30

 

Hey. Why is it when I'm in stop and go traffic it get hard to shift (5spd)? It's all fine and dandy then it become stiff when I start playing with it too much (lol)
Thanks

 

Does anyone have a stillen adapter plate on there max? I recently got one on a parts car i purchased. Not sure if i should install it though, seems like my car would be sucking in warmer air with a open filter under the hood. Ive recently viewed some threads on this site about this subject and it seems to be a bad idea. Should i keep my stock intake?

 

I found a pathfinder throttle body. Is it worth it to install on my 1995? If anyone has a instruction on how to install? pictures? something, also where can i find a adapter plate?

 

when u shut the car off u can disconnect the fuel injector so that u are runnin on 5 cylinders. Dont worry it wont hurt the car, u jus running on 5 cylinders. That should help wit starting the car at least, sure wont help with performance tho lol

Disconnect the ignition coil too jus for good measure.

 

STop man stop.

The only direct fit is 95-99 max non lsd. U can install a i30 LSD, but u will need the axles from the lsd.

Quests, villagers, and altimas...naw man. Well let me retract that...the altima u can fit but not without modifications. U may need the tranny housing...idk. Aacksun has a 6MT off the newer models so ask him.

Now onto the problems u are experiencing...First off yur tranny should be throwing some codes. Get a copy of the Haynes or get the FSM from Fallenone's sig. Check for codes.

With shifting issues, u have to check the throttle position sensor (TPS). It tells the ECU whether u are at idle or if u are giving the car wide open throttle (WOT). I think your TPS is screwed especially since u stated that u have issues with goin over 2000 rpm.

U may also have a MAF issue since not being able to go past 2500 is classic MAF issue. Clean TB and MAF per how tos

Your shifting solenoids may be shot too but i dont think this is your problem. Shifting solenoids are the components of the tranny that actually make the tranny shift gears.

U also may need a new drop resistor (DR), which is known to fail for ATs. This is what makes the shift solenoids shift. A bad DR will cause the car to thud HARD into gears. For example, instead of being a smooth transition like u feel in newer cars, the tranny will THUD into the next gear, when in Drive. New DR cost about $80 and it located near the air filter box on the driver side strut tower. Its a brass 3 or 4 inch cylinder.

The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) plays a role too but i dont think thats your problem either

If u were low in fluid u may need to change the tranny filter and see where and why its leaking.

You also need to check the AT shifter to make sure the contacts arent worn. It may jus be that your shifter is fawked.

Lastly, when u post man, use spaces so its easier read. Long paragraphs SUCK when try to read.

 

Need more info man. Ur post is too damn random to adequately help diagnose.

To me, sounds like ur synchros are on its way out. CHANGE THA TRANNY FLUID quick. U supposed to replace every 30k. Go to valveline instant oil change..they got that synthetic gear oil. It real nice man. Nice smooth shifts.

EDIT:

Listen man, these maxi 5spd trannies are sensitive. U cant just play with the shifter like u can with uhhh other things. Take it easy with the shifts or u gonna blow the tranny. Be easy son and u be good.

 

I have the short ram with a heatshield over the filter and MAF to block some of the radiant heat off the tranny. Its good.

I was unaware they had a Stillen shield specific to our car. Learn something new every day

Check out my thread for the Weapon R secret weapon. Looks tight. If u decide to buy it, then post a review in that thread.

 

It should fit but yes you will need the adapter plate. Check the HOW tos.

 

ok space out sorry guys new to this forum

took to a local tranny guy last night to read it but since its a 95 its not obd2,he couldnt find anywhere to hook to and read the codes,any ideas?

fluid smelled a lil burned but not to bad according to this guy so doing a filter change as recommended by you and him as well,which was already planned

he said could be something electronic or as easy as some dirt or debris clogged a port not allowing 1st and reverse to work

if it was MAF i don't think holding it to the floor for 5-10 secs would have let that clear up but i do have MAF cleaner so i will clean that as well

speed sensor possible since sometimes while driving the speedo bounces but usually only on 1st start of day while car is still cold,usually fine next time you start it

would the DR make it go all the way to redline if floored before shifting to next gear or would that be the solenoids?

new to this forum and the maxima but have been on other forums for other cars and have helped and been helped a lot...hope to have the same experience here
thank you,
Lonnie

 

is there any horse power gains, or is it just for sound?

 

95 se maxima here. Car has 277xxx miles and on the way to work decided to hold 2k rpm and start blowing a greyish smoke out. Looks like water. Side note, it has been drinking water as well so im assuming the intake gasket gave way completely. Second opinion?

 

hey, thanks for your suggestion.
can you explain this in a bit more detail? how do I disconnect the fuel injector?
and how will the engine get fuel if the injector is disconnected?

 

this is highly debatable.

Some ppl say no, some ppl say yes.

I say yes. I dont have a Dyno to validate this. I jus know that i have owned 2 different 4th gens. Each one i modded differently at different times. I tried to keep the second one stock but after a month i couldnt. I had already modded the exhaust but i left the intake stock. I knew from previous experience the Short ram wd help to make the car pull harder up top. Installed the short ram and sure enough it did pull harder. And cool growl.

Look at it this way, anyone who is looking for performance puts on a cone filter. Even the professionals. THere must be a reason for this.

 

Look at the cylinder. Each one has an injector and ignition coil harness. Jus unplug the harness for the cylinder u want to deactivate.

 

Look at it this way, anyone who is looking for performance puts on a cone filter. Even the professionals. THere must be a reason for this. [/quote]

Thats a good point ill give it a shot, ill have my stoke box still so i can put it back on if i dont like it.

 

Would a adapter plate like this work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Edelb...Q5fAccessories

i can line up and drill the holes. and does the ivac line up on the 3.0 to the tb trottle body?

 

and how do you think this will help with the starting problem? does it matter which cylinder?

 

In post # 7164 you said that a fuel injector was leaking. I translate this to mean one fuel injector and that's the one to disconnect.

I have a different idea about the hard starting. I think you have a problem with your CKPS (POS) sensor. In English, this is your crankshaft position sensor that is mounted in the bellhousing and senses the flywheel turning. Another possibility is a bad engine coolant temperature sensor, but this is more of a problem in cold weather.

Going back to you original post when you were thinking you had a bad fuel pump, a point got overlooked. When you first turn the key to the on position, the ecu tells the fuel pump to run and pressurize the system. You should be able to hear the fuel pump run if you're in a quiet area.

 

well, i had a mechanic inspect and he was certain there were leaks in the injectors. it may have been more than one.
i have very little expertise in this field, so i guess that's why I was looking for a workaround that would simply allow me to manually engage the fuel pump, to pressurize the lines, and then be able to start the car per normal.
the only difference right now is i have to do this through a full start, and hence i can tell my starter is wearing out and making sounds and i'm concerned eventually it is going to to.

 

If you are still looking for a workaround on the fuel pump, I refer you to my earlied post:

What you want to do is turn the key to the ON position (dash lights light up) and wait 2 - 3 seconds before you turn the key the rest of the way to the start position. In those couple of seconds the fuel pump will have pressurized the fuel line.

However, I doubt that this will resolve the starting problem.

 

oh, I understand now, I will test this tomorrow and see if i can hear the fuel pump run. thanks again for your suggestions.

 

My 98' Maxima SE is having some electrical problems. About a year ago I noticed that the Temp and Fuel Gauges were moving up and down while the car was off. About 3 months ago this activity started to drain the battery in about 2 days of no use.

I have recently had someone remove the alarm system and it has decreased the frequency of the gauges moving, and the battery has stopped draining, but the Temp gauge still moves while the car is off.

Also one of the radiator fans is spinning slowly and one of my headlights is less brighter than the other, I dont know if that is related, but its electrical so maybe it is.

Any Ideas? Thanks in advance

 

Please do not post the same problem in 2 different threads.

To other org members - do not reply to this post. Post in the other thread he started.

 

i have a maxima 97 and i want to unplug the over speed horn could any one tell me how pls

 

edit: nevermind

 

I have 97 nissan maxima and looks like it needs new struts/shock absorbers.
I went to couple mechanics and all of them said they are gone and needs to be replaced. One gave quote for OEM Strut assembly kit, another for KYB GR2 and another for Monroe. Cost for KYB / Monroe are almost same but OEM is little pricier.

Here are parts recommended to be replaced by one of the mechanics:

1: Strut Assembly (FL/FR).
2: Strut Mounting Kit w/ Bearing (2)
3: Strut Bellows (2)
4: Shock Absorbers (RL/RR)
5: Shock Mounting Kit (2)
6: Shock Bellows (1) Why one and not 2?
7. Sway Bar Link Kit (2)

Car Usage: I use it for regular day-to-day travel and nothing harsh or special.

So my questions are:

1: Which one should I go with OEM, KYB GR2 or Monroe or any other? I plan to keep this car for another 15-20k miles. I read reviews KYB GR2 are much better than Monroe SenaTrac.

2: Should I be replacing all of the above or not all are necessary? E.g. Sway Bar Link kit.

3: If I need all of the above, should I get the whole assembled one that included spring as well or it's not necessary to replace spring, because none of the mechanic said anything about it?

4: I found someone on Craigslist who can do the job about $200 less than auto shops. Is it ok to hire someone from Craigslist to do this job? (mobile mechanic - who claims to be certified and worked at auto shop for 10+ years)? I will go for alignment to some shop after the installment.

5: Good place to buy the above items? I have found these two so far the cheapest: Advance autoparts and Car Parts Wholesale.

Any guidance really appreciated.

Thank you.
Samy

 

hello, am trying to replace frame mount bushings and end links-
Yet on the driver side, its closer to upper support member.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-parts-a32b-1995-1999/genuine-nissan-parts/axle-suspension/401-front-suspension/-c-1783_1784_1873_1875.html

This picture kind of shows what im talking about.
I Feel like the tie rod on the driver side will rub against the sway bar; matter of fact there is a slight blemish on the bar and tie rod where it would hit if it could. Not sure if it is from that.

The meat to the question is that the driver side bracket/ clamp was torn/ ripped/ busted like a **** will post pics if would help. already have some on garage profile of what im dealing with. Thanks for any help



EDIT: Never Mind.
FSM, and haynes manuals had everything i needed to know, after i did it with out them. I had figured well its a bar to reinforce the susp. so it would be logical for it to be under some torsion/tension. anywho I ended up hanging everything where it goes and evenly tightened everything down. work like a charm.

new question, with tires on and car sitting stock suspension, is there more/ less tension/torsion on the stabilizer/sway bar (front) ? thanks again for any help.

 

Over speed horn? I have never heard of this. Is this car from another country?

 

Question 1 - It depends on what kind of a ride you want. KYB will give you a little better handling, but a stiffer, harsher ride. Monroe will perform like oem and ride like oem.

Question 2 - It all depends. Are the parts truly worn out? The strut bearings don't have to be replaced every time. Ditto for the sway bar bushings. In the name of technical accuracy, the Maxima does not have shock absorbers, it has struts on all 4 wheels. But as for the rear strut bellows, I would get both.

Question 3 - There is probably nothing wrong with your springs. Springs take a long, long, long, long, long time to wear out. Don't waste the money.

Question 4 - Don't know the guy, don't know the quality of his work. See if the guy will give you some references that you can talk to. See if he will give you a one year warranty on his labor.

Question 5 - You can probably get the struts cheapest on E-bay and/or Amazon. Two years ago when I replaced the struts on my 97, I found the best price on Amazon.

 

the sound when the speed is over 120 km/h

 

I guess that you are in Canada since you said km/h. Cars built for the USA don't have that feature and I can't give you an answer. Sorry

 

HE GUYS MY BABY WONT SHIFT INTO 1ST OR 2ND GEAR AND IT WILL GOTO 3RD GEAR BUT NOTHING HAPPANS? HERD A CLANK NOISE AND?LIKE ITS IN NEUTRAL??? 4TH 5TH AND REVERSE WORK GOOD. CLUCH WORKS GOOD...I WAS TOLD I WILL NEED A NEW TRANSMISSION $$$$$$$$ $1000) YEA IM GET ON IT SOME TIMES THINKING BOUT REPLACING THE CLUTCH AT SAME TIME AND I WHEN THE IS ROLLING I HEAR A SMALL METEL SHOUND.....$700 FOR USED 62000 5SPD AND $300 LABOR. IM PUSHING 300HP...ANYBODY ELSE HAVE THIS ISSUE? THANKS FOR ANY REPLY DEX..

1/30/10 *******UPDATE*******

TOOK TO ATLAS TRANS 3180 S MILITARY TRAIL LAKE WORTH FLORIDA.
WAS TOLD $778.71 IN PARTS TO FIX.

1) MASTER RING AND BEARING SET $403.94

2) 3RD GEAR MAIN SHAFT $125.04

3) 3RD GEAR COUNTER SHAFT $136.12

4) SM PARTS KIT $48.61

5) SWITCH (BOTTOM) $25.00

6) GEAR OIL $40

7) STAGE II CLUTCH $310

8) RESURFACE FLYWHEELE $75

9) LABOR 10.5HOURS $892.50.....********$2189.87

******** TOOK BACK DUE TO 3RD GEAR NOT FULLY IN GEAR....

WAS TOLD CLUTCH DEFECTIVE AND REPLACED AND FLYWHEELE HAD TO BE REPLACED DUE TO RESURFACE CANT BE DONE (96 5SPD ON 2005 3.5) AND A BOLT WAS LEFT IN THERE???? ********AFTER A FEW WEEKS SHOP WAS ABEL TO GET USED FLYWHEELE AND BACK ON ROAD PLUS GOT NEW AXLES ALSO.


************************************************** *****
5/13/11 *******UPDATE******* POPPING OUT TO 1ST GEAR??? ALL OTHER GEARS WORK FINE AND WILL WORK IF YOU FORCE IT IN...1998 MAXIMA WITH 2005 3.5 SWAP ON 1996 5SPD TRANS 320107Y066....TOOK TO ATLAS TRANS 3180 S MILITARY TRAIL...AND RAY SAID $500 IN JUST PARTS????

REBUILD LASTED 14 MONTHS???????????? IS THIS HOW LONG A (GOOD) REBUILD LAST????????? NOMAL DRIVING.....WTF????

SOUNDS LINK IT MAY CHEAPER TO GET A 2005 6SPD??? WILL IT LINK UP WITH MY 2005 ENGINE????? ANY HELP??? PLEASE....

 

I can tel you how to fix your over speed horn.
disconnect all your horns..
mine has more than 2 bc i have disconnected both under hood yet my horn still works.

 

Any adpapter will work as long as the holes mount up and the gaskets are proper size

 

I've got a 98 Max GXE, 3.0 V6 : 24Valve-DOHC, and I'm interested in adding a cold air intake system, as the first of many planned mods. I'm tinkering at this point, and wanted some advice from people who have more experience with CAI. I looked in the 4th gen forums for similar posts but despite the perceived simplicity of the question, I really couldn't find much by way of CAI advice.

So, is there a particular CAI setup that works really well for the 4th gen engine I've got? Specifically, do you recommend a particular brand, and heat-sink padding or covering? Thanks in advance for the replies and advice.

Also, if for whatever reason some moderator has a problem with this post, for any reason, please be aware that I actually have a life and have never been much good with forum etiquette. I'm a southern guy, and we're usually pretty informal and forgiving when talking cars. At least, where I'm from we are.

Again, thanks.

 

There is a how to thread for installing the CAI. It was written by Luke95gxe. All the info u need should be in there.

I have been lookin at the weapon R secret weapon as my next mod. CHeck it out.

I currently run a SRI (short ram intake).

 

here the link to the write up ebay has different cold air intakes for sale
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...tall-pics.html