NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
#7121
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/
#7122
Hey guys im new to this and i was wondering what would be the best performance struts and springs should i get for my 01 maxima AE i dont really care much about the drop i just want it to ride smooth without feeling the bumps so much i was thinking about some tokico illumina struts and maybe eibach springs but im hoping to leave it at about the stock level and occasionally lower it for looks is this a good buy? Or should i just maybe get some coilovers? I dont want to be feeling every little bump like most lowering springs, but i still wanna get a cool sporty look what do you guys suggest ??
#7123
thanks for the help, my tech is going to look at it tomorrow and see whats up. would this be accompanied by shaking under hard accel? or could that just be wheel hop?
im thinking bad engine mount, based on what my experience tells me, well see i guess...
anyone tried the tockico shock/spring combo? i want to maintain my ride and bring the car down just a little, if any drop will kill my ride, then im not interested...
im thinking bad engine mount, based on what my experience tells me, well see i guess...
anyone tried the tockico shock/spring combo? i want to maintain my ride and bring the car down just a little, if any drop will kill my ride, then im not interested...
THe tokico blues combo is good. U will like it. Wont kill ur ride. Jus make sure u get new OEM dustcovers, 20-30 bucks each and 3/8" spiral wrap from radioshack. Wrap the bottom and top of each coil. THe tokicos will come with rear bushings, nuts, and washer. Use all of it.
#7124
courtesyparts.com for OEM. SEARCH the org of aftermarkets review. Advanced or autozone shd be good too.
#7125
none of those are related. Change them all.
#7126
Hey guys im new to this and i was wondering what would be the best performance struts and springs should i get for my 01 maxima AE i dont really care much about the drop i just want it to ride smooth without feeling the bumps so much i was thinking about some tokico illumina struts and maybe eibach springs but im hoping to leave it at about the stock level and occasionally lower it for looks is this a good buy? Or should i just maybe get some coilovers? I dont want to be feeling every little bump like most lowering springs, but i still wanna get a cool sporty look what do you guys suggest ??
Get illuminas if u really want to adjust the ride from sport to comfort. But that requires raising the vehicle. U really plan on do that every time u want to adjust the ride? Illuiminas are for serious ppl who want to have a DD and a track car. The illuminas will allow u to do both, they have a setting of 0 - 5, from super comfy to super sport. Supper sport is super handling, but super harsh on normal roads. Super comfy has no performance. So more than likely u jus gonna drive normal rides so u jus gonna keep it on one setting. From what i hear, pple have them set to 2 up front for more comfort, 4 in the rear for more handling. The maxi rear is a lil floaty. 4 helps to stiffen it up.
The blues are the illuminas set on 3. Thats cool man. Jus get the blues and call it a day, u be happy trust me. Especially when u taking corners at 55mph like i did this morning with my blues and H&Rs hehe.
Coilovers will lower ur car 1.7". Then u can lower down to 2.5" or more. U dont want that ImO. U gonna blow axles all the time. A small car is "ok" to lower that low but a sedan is gonna get fawked up.
#7127
#7128
I have a question. My powersteering fluid is leaking. One of my hoses from the resivior is always wet from the fluid. When it gets low it whines. I want to know what i need. Im thinking maybe its the hose but im not for sure. Plz help
#7129
First u need to find exaclty where it leaking from. It can either be leakin on the line going to the PS pump or the cooling lines that run to the front bumper of the car. jus replace whatever is leaking. Might jus be some worn clamps as well.
#7130
Okay, so I'm obviously new here on the org, I've searched through most of the how-to's and beginners information, etc etc... I actually found a lot of new things that I didn't know I could do. On the other hand, I still have some questions.
#1, When I shut and lock my doors, every light turns off, except for my door lights, they stay on, for hours. For now I just have the lights removed from the doors. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there an easy fix to it? A not so easy fix?
#2, I already ordered the cattman headers and y-pipe, so I definitely want to get a highflow cat and a decent catback. I was pulled over for the exhaust tip that came on my car, so apparently to avoid future issues, I'm going to need the tip to look stock, and obviously it can't be obnoxiously loud. Technically anything louder then stock is illegal by Colorado state law. Does anyone know of a good catback that has a stock sized or close to stock sized tip? Would it be better to just modify the catback currently on the car to be a little quieter and have a smaller tip? As for a highflow cat, any suggestions on one that I can still pass colorado emissions with?
#3, My passenger side front door, the lock doesn't fully lock when the rest of the doors lock, so I have to manually push that lock before getting out of the car. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm assuming this is an easy fix, such as tightening the cable to the lock.
#4, Up until a few weeks ago, my trunk was opening just fine, now randomly the trunk lever doesn't unlatch the trunk. When pulled, I can see it moving the latch, it seems to be working just fine, but the trunk won't release. Any suggestions? Of course, it's even more messed up now, I got pulled over out of state, 27 hours of no sleep, the cop thought I was on something, a canine unit, drug search and a couple thousand miles of driving later, I noticed he re-hooked my subwoofer bungee cord up to my trunk latch.... How nice. So now the key hardly works either. I'm guessing at this point, it might just be easier to replace the whole latch mechanism when I put my CF trunk on.
I've got more questions and ideas, but for now I'll leave it at this. Thanks for any help in advance.
#1, When I shut and lock my doors, every light turns off, except for my door lights, they stay on, for hours. For now I just have the lights removed from the doors. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there an easy fix to it? A not so easy fix?
#2, I already ordered the cattman headers and y-pipe, so I definitely want to get a highflow cat and a decent catback. I was pulled over for the exhaust tip that came on my car, so apparently to avoid future issues, I'm going to need the tip to look stock, and obviously it can't be obnoxiously loud. Technically anything louder then stock is illegal by Colorado state law. Does anyone know of a good catback that has a stock sized or close to stock sized tip? Would it be better to just modify the catback currently on the car to be a little quieter and have a smaller tip? As for a highflow cat, any suggestions on one that I can still pass colorado emissions with?
#3, My passenger side front door, the lock doesn't fully lock when the rest of the doors lock, so I have to manually push that lock before getting out of the car. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm assuming this is an easy fix, such as tightening the cable to the lock.
#4, Up until a few weeks ago, my trunk was opening just fine, now randomly the trunk lever doesn't unlatch the trunk. When pulled, I can see it moving the latch, it seems to be working just fine, but the trunk won't release. Any suggestions? Of course, it's even more messed up now, I got pulled over out of state, 27 hours of no sleep, the cop thought I was on something, a canine unit, drug search and a couple thousand miles of driving later, I noticed he re-hooked my subwoofer bungee cord up to my trunk latch.... How nice. So now the key hardly works either. I'm guessing at this point, it might just be easier to replace the whole latch mechanism when I put my CF trunk on.
I've got more questions and ideas, but for now I'll leave it at this. Thanks for any help in advance.
#7131
Struts
I believe the 5th gens already sit low enough stock. Or i shd say, a mild drop of 1.3" will lower the car too much. Thats my opinion. I wd jus replace the struts with some tokico blues, fawk the springs.
Get illuminas if u really want to adjust the ride from sport to comfort. But that requires raising the vehicle. U really plan on do that every time u want to adjust the ride? Illuiminas are for serious ppl who want to have a DD and a track car. The illuminas will allow u to do both, they have a setting of 0 - 5, from super comfy to super sport. Supper sport is super handling, but super harsh on normal roads. Super comfy has no performance. So more than likely u jus gonna drive normal rides so u jus gonna keep it on one setting. From what i hear, pple have them set to 2 up front for more comfort, 4 in the rear for more handling. The maxi rear is a lil floaty. 4 helps to stiffen it up.
The blues are the illuminas set on 3. Thats cool man. Jus get the blues and ca
it a day, u be happy trust me. Especially when u taking corners at 55mph like i did this morning with my blues and H&Rs hehe
Coilovers will lower ur car 1.7". Then u can lower down to 2.5" or more. U dont want that ImO. U gonna blow axles all the time. A small car is "ok" to lower that low but a sedan is gonna get fawked up.
Get illuminas if u really want to adjust the ride from sport to comfort. But that requires raising the vehicle. U really plan on do that every time u want to adjust the ride? Illuiminas are for serious ppl who want to have a DD and a track car. The illuminas will allow u to do both, they have a setting of 0 - 5, from super comfy to super sport. Supper sport is super handling, but super harsh on normal roads. Super comfy has no performance. So more than likely u jus gonna drive normal rides so u jus gonna keep it on one setting. From what i hear, pple have them set to 2 up front for more comfort, 4 in the rear for more handling. The maxi rear is a lil floaty. 4 helps to stiffen it up.
The blues are the illuminas set on 3. Thats cool man. Jus get the blues and ca
it a day, u be happy trust me. Especially when u taking corners at 55mph like i did this morning with my blues and H&Rs hehe
Coilovers will lower ur car 1.7". Then u can lower down to 2.5" or more. U dont want that ImO. U gonna blow axles all the time. A small car is "ok" to lower that low but a sedan is gonna get fawked up.
Thanx cash now im wondering if i should ride the blues wit the stock springs i dont think my handling will improve much without the springs.Or should i get the tokiko blues strut and springs? The dustcover is obliviously da black plastic cover around the top of the wheel right? Can u explain exactly what the strap is your talkin about that part got me a little confused thanx
#7133
Okay, so I'm obviously new here on the org, I've searched through most of the how-to's and beginners information, etc etc... I actually found a lot of new things that I didn't know I could do. On the other hand, I still have some questions.
#1, When I shut and lock my doors, every light turns off, except for my door lights, they stay on, for hours. For now I just have the lights removed from the doors. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there an easy fix to it? A not so easy fix?
Im not really sure on this one. There is most likely a relay to swap out and replace or window switches which send signal to the lights are fawked. THe plungers on the car pillars must still work cuz the interior lights activate once the door is open.
#2, I already ordered the cattman headers and y-pipe, so I definitely want to get a highflow cat and a decent catback. I was pulled over for the exhaust tip that came on my car, so apparently to avoid future issues, I'm going to need the tip to look stock, and obviously it can't be obnoxiously loud. Technically anything louder then stock is illegal by Colorado state law. Does anyone know of a good catback that has a stock sized or close to stock sized tip? Would it be better to just modify the catback currently on the car to be a little quieter and have a smaller tip? As for a highflow cat, any suggestions on one that I can still pass colorado emissions with?
Damn kid u got pulled over for an exhaust tip!!?? Colorado laws suck. Most catbacks are gonna come with a non-stock lookin muffler. If u want a good flowing muffler and no sound get the 5th gen muffler. If u want something a lil more cost effective then get the Dynomax Super turbo muffler (street version for stock quite, sport version for a lil noise). U are not gonna pass emissions if u dont have a cat if they use the sniffer. To get the CEL off, you will need to block off the o2 sensor
.
#3, My passenger side front door, the lock doesn't fully lock when the rest
of the doors lock, so I have to manually push that lock before getting out of the car. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm assuming this is an easy fix, such as tightening the cable to the lock.
I replaced the key lock cylinder on my car. To remove it, u need to loosen and unlatch the linkage that attaches the inside door lock with the lock actuator inside the door. U have to adjust the linkage such that the door lock will fully lock. Take off the door trim and get to the hinge for the linkage.
#4, Up until a few weeks ago, my trunk was opening just fine, now randomly the trunk lever doesn't unlatch the trunk. When pulled, I can see it moving the latch, it seems to be working just fine, but the trunk won't release. Any suggestions? Of course, it's even more messed up now, I got pulled over out of state, 27 hours of no sleep, the cop thought I was on something, a canine unit, drug search and a couple thousand miles of driving later, I noticed he re-hooked my subwoofer bungee cord up to my trunk latch.... How nice. So now the key hardly works either. I'm guessing at this point, it might just be easier to replace the whole latch mechanism when I put my CF trunk on.
U will have to remove the trunk lining and look at the mechanism and determine what is broken. Its not often that it fails. Damn son, u dont seem to have a lot of luck with cops lol
I've got more questions and ideas, but for now I'll leave it at this. Thanks for any help in advance.
#1, When I shut and lock my doors, every light turns off, except for my door lights, they stay on, for hours. For now I just have the lights removed from the doors. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there an easy fix to it? A not so easy fix?
Im not really sure on this one. There is most likely a relay to swap out and replace or window switches which send signal to the lights are fawked. THe plungers on the car pillars must still work cuz the interior lights activate once the door is open.
#2, I already ordered the cattman headers and y-pipe, so I definitely want to get a highflow cat and a decent catback. I was pulled over for the exhaust tip that came on my car, so apparently to avoid future issues, I'm going to need the tip to look stock, and obviously it can't be obnoxiously loud. Technically anything louder then stock is illegal by Colorado state law. Does anyone know of a good catback that has a stock sized or close to stock sized tip? Would it be better to just modify the catback currently on the car to be a little quieter and have a smaller tip? As for a highflow cat, any suggestions on one that I can still pass colorado emissions with?
Damn kid u got pulled over for an exhaust tip!!?? Colorado laws suck. Most catbacks are gonna come with a non-stock lookin muffler. If u want a good flowing muffler and no sound get the 5th gen muffler. If u want something a lil more cost effective then get the Dynomax Super turbo muffler (street version for stock quite, sport version for a lil noise). U are not gonna pass emissions if u dont have a cat if they use the sniffer. To get the CEL off, you will need to block off the o2 sensor
.
#3, My passenger side front door, the lock doesn't fully lock when the rest
of the doors lock, so I have to manually push that lock before getting out of the car. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm assuming this is an easy fix, such as tightening the cable to the lock.
I replaced the key lock cylinder on my car. To remove it, u need to loosen and unlatch the linkage that attaches the inside door lock with the lock actuator inside the door. U have to adjust the linkage such that the door lock will fully lock. Take off the door trim and get to the hinge for the linkage.
#4, Up until a few weeks ago, my trunk was opening just fine, now randomly the trunk lever doesn't unlatch the trunk. When pulled, I can see it moving the latch, it seems to be working just fine, but the trunk won't release. Any suggestions? Of course, it's even more messed up now, I got pulled over out of state, 27 hours of no sleep, the cop thought I was on something, a canine unit, drug search and a couple thousand miles of driving later, I noticed he re-hooked my subwoofer bungee cord up to my trunk latch.... How nice. So now the key hardly works either. I'm guessing at this point, it might just be easier to replace the whole latch mechanism when I put my CF trunk on.
U will have to remove the trunk lining and look at the mechanism and determine what is broken. Its not often that it fails. Damn son, u dont seem to have a lot of luck with cops lol
I've got more questions and ideas, but for now I'll leave it at this. Thanks for any help in advance.
#7134
#7135
Thanx cash now im wondering if i should ride the blues wit the stock springs i dont think my handling will improve much without the springs.Or should i get the tokiko blues strut and springs? The dustcover is obliviously da black plastic cover around the top of the wheel right? Can u explain exactly what the strap is your talkin about that part got me a little confused thanx
As an aside, i was watchin Horsepower Tv on SPIKE TV, and the guys lower their cars with a mild drop of 1.4 inch on KYB's. I say Tokicos ride better then KYB especially in cold weather.
Straps? Do u mean the spring isolators? Spring Isolators are rubber coils that fit onto the spring coil at the interface of the spring and strut. It prevents metal on metal contact. U dont want metal on metal contact. The stock isolators should still be good but u may need more if u gettin new springs. I bought 3/8" spiral wound from radioshack and wrapped my top and bottom springs w/ that. NO issues.
#7136
Ya, I've read that, but have yet to come across a driver's seat that is the right color/material and is power. There is 2005 maxima front seats on cl right now for a good price and they are clean as s**t. Would love to use them both, but I'm new to this whole maxima thing.
#7137
Hi All,
I looked through this forum and I tried to find a solution to this coolant leak I have on my 1995 Maxima SE and has 19Xk miles 5pd. but I couldn't find anything..
I fell in love with this car when I bought it almost two years ago and I would love to keep this. I dont want to be stuck with payments.
Since I dont have rights to start a new thread I was hoping someone can help me out here.
I found the problem during my lunch time and found that there is a crack and it looks like it was just patched with something to stop the leak...not sure what to do here.
I looked through this forum and I tried to find a solution to this coolant leak I have on my 1995 Maxima SE and has 19Xk miles 5pd. but I couldn't find anything..
I fell in love with this car when I bought it almost two years ago and I would love to keep this. I dont want to be stuck with payments.
Since I dont have rights to start a new thread I was hoping someone can help me out here.
I found the problem during my lunch time and found that there is a crack and it looks like it was just patched with something to stop the leak...not sure what to do here.
#7138
UPDATE
Thanks cashoit for your comments.
#1, When doors are open, the door lights are lightly lit. When I shut my doors and lock the car, every other light, turns off. The door lights however, get brighter. (apparently there is a constant current, which can still illuminate LED's but not normal light bulbs, but this should be reversed, lightly lit when doors are closed, fully lit while open)
#2, A friend and I decided on just putting a straight through pipe inside the current cat, so it looks stock. If it fails emissions in two years, then I will get a highflow cat. As for the catback, I am still undecided, as the stock pipe is so tiny. I would like to make it look stock without restricting the exhaust.
#3, My passenger side front door, the lock doesn't fully lock when the rest of the doors lock, so I have to manually push that lock before getting out of the car. As suggested, I adjusted the linkage, however, it was to no avail, the farther I adjusted it, the less the lock would actually engage. I adjusted the linkage back to the tightest possible, and bent the bottom bar inward a little, which made the door start locking properly, I suppose I will have to watch it over the next couple months to ensure it is locking still.
#4, Up until a few weeks ago, my trunk was opening just fine, now randomly the trunk lever doesn't unlatch the trunk. When pulled, I can see it moving the latch, it seems to be working just fine, but the trunk won't release. The trunk release, appears to have a bypass, what I would assume is a bypass to prevent valet from getting in your trunk. If you open the trunk and push the release switch down, it still works, but will not engage the latch. If you reach under and pop it back up, it clicks into place, and once again engages the latch when the trunk release is pulled. Viola!
#2, A friend and I decided on just putting a straight through pipe inside the current cat, so it looks stock. If it fails emissions in two years, then I will get a highflow cat. As for the catback, I am still undecided, as the stock pipe is so tiny. I would like to make it look stock without restricting the exhaust.
#3, My passenger side front door, the lock doesn't fully lock when the rest of the doors lock, so I have to manually push that lock before getting out of the car. As suggested, I adjusted the linkage, however, it was to no avail, the farther I adjusted it, the less the lock would actually engage. I adjusted the linkage back to the tightest possible, and bent the bottom bar inward a little, which made the door start locking properly, I suppose I will have to watch it over the next couple months to ensure it is locking still.
#4, Up until a few weeks ago, my trunk was opening just fine, now randomly the trunk lever doesn't unlatch the trunk. When pulled, I can see it moving the latch, it seems to be working just fine, but the trunk won't release. The trunk release, appears to have a bypass, what I would assume is a bypass to prevent valet from getting in your trunk. If you open the trunk and push the release switch down, it still works, but will not engage the latch. If you reach under and pop it back up, it clicks into place, and once again engages the latch when the trunk release is pulled. Viola!
Last edited by TibTibs; 05-03-2011 at 01:57 AM.
#7139
To get full performance of the blues, then yea u gotta lower it. but when i measured my boy's 5th gen it sat maybe 1/2 inch higher than my car does now. IMO, if u lower a 5th gen, it may sit too low. Jus get the blues, it gonna perform good man.
As an aside, i was watchin Horsepower Tv on SPIKE TV, and the guys lower their cars with a mild drop of 1.4 inch on KYB's. I say Tokicos ride better then KYB especially in cold weather.
Straps? Do u mean the spring isolators? Spring Isolators are rubber coils that fit onto the spring coil at the interface of the spring and strut. It prevents metal on metal contact. U dont want metal on metal contact. The stock isolators should still be good but u may need more if u gettin new springs. I bought 3/8" spiral wound from radioshack and wrapped my top and bottom springs w/ that. NO issues.
As an aside, i was watchin Horsepower Tv on SPIKE TV, and the guys lower their cars with a mild drop of 1.4 inch on KYB's. I say Tokicos ride better then KYB especially in cold weather.
Straps? Do u mean the spring isolators? Spring Isolators are rubber coils that fit onto the spring coil at the interface of the spring and strut. It prevents metal on metal contact. U dont want metal on metal contact. The stock isolators should still be good but u may need more if u gettin new springs. I bought 3/8" spiral wound from radioshack and wrapped my top and bottom springs w/ that. NO issues.
#7141
Hi All,
I looked through this forum and I tried to find a solution to this coolant leak I have on my 1995 Maxima SE and has 19Xk miles 5pd. but I couldn't find anything..
I fell in love with this car when I bought it almost two years ago and I would love to keep this. I dont want to be stuck with payments.
Since I dont have rights to start a new thread I was hoping someone can help me out here.
I found the problem during my lunch time and found that there is a crack and it looks like it was just patched with something to stop the leak...not sure what to do here.
I looked through this forum and I tried to find a solution to this coolant leak I have on my 1995 Maxima SE and has 19Xk miles 5pd. but I couldn't find anything..
I fell in love with this car when I bought it almost two years ago and I would love to keep this. I dont want to be stuck with payments.
Since I dont have rights to start a new thread I was hoping someone can help me out here.
I found the problem during my lunch time and found that there is a crack and it looks like it was just patched with something to stop the leak...not sure what to do here.
#7145
OK, I guess it won't hurt to try. I had a battery reverse polarity incident a short time ago. I worked through most problems, but I have one thing that's driving me nuts. My car will not go into overdrive. The light in the dash even says OD off. I thought at first the OD switch on the shifter, but I direct wired it and it's still the same. Any thoughts out there? Or maybe a good, easy to read wiring diagram so that I can start chasing down the problem. thanks in advance for any possible help.
'96 GXE, AT, KYB struts, K&N, 200k
'96 GXE, AT, KYB struts, K&N, 200k
Last edited by qtrmil; 05-04-2011 at 07:32 PM.
#7146
#1, My door lights are reversed, when the doors are shut and locked, the door lights are on, while every other light shuts off... When the doors are open, the door lights are off, while every other light is on.... Help?
#2, I want to buy a short throw shifter, but I'm having trouble finding the ones recommended in a previous post I had seen. The only one I'm finding is CustomMaxima's and TWM Performance. Suggestions?
#3, My windshield whiper fluid stopped spraying a few weeks ago, earlier that day, it worked fine... Is this a common problem? I can still hear the pump going, so did a hose just come undone? I would assume that, but my whiper fluid is still full. I can't imagine a hose just instantly clogged.
#4, When I turn on my blinkers, it turns off cruise control, the module stays on, but I have to hit the resume button. If I hit the resume button while the blinker is still on, it will completely reset and I have to set it again. I've read some sites on this, but they were all on other cars. Suggestions going from burnt out brake lights, to LED brake lights causing the problems. None of my lights are burned out. The right signal only does it sometimes, so I don't think the LED's are the problem. Another suggestion was that a turn signal bulb is shorting out with a brake light. Any ideas?
#5, reverse lights flicker on and off when I move the shifter slightly, won't stay on.... Just read, looks like I have to replace a sensor and do a tranny fluid change. I'm at almost 160,000 miles, my tranny fluid is clean, but I've been told, a fluid change this late in the game can kill the transmission pretty fast. So, I'm lost.
Thanks again for any help.
#2, I want to buy a short throw shifter, but I'm having trouble finding the ones recommended in a previous post I had seen. The only one I'm finding is CustomMaxima's and TWM Performance. Suggestions?
#3, My windshield whiper fluid stopped spraying a few weeks ago, earlier that day, it worked fine... Is this a common problem? I can still hear the pump going, so did a hose just come undone? I would assume that, but my whiper fluid is still full. I can't imagine a hose just instantly clogged.
#4, When I turn on my blinkers, it turns off cruise control, the module stays on, but I have to hit the resume button. If I hit the resume button while the blinker is still on, it will completely reset and I have to set it again. I've read some sites on this, but they were all on other cars. Suggestions going from burnt out brake lights, to LED brake lights causing the problems. None of my lights are burned out. The right signal only does it sometimes, so I don't think the LED's are the problem. Another suggestion was that a turn signal bulb is shorting out with a brake light. Any ideas?
#5, reverse lights flicker on and off when I move the shifter slightly, won't stay on.... Just read, looks like I have to replace a sensor and do a tranny fluid change. I'm at almost 160,000 miles, my tranny fluid is clean, but I've been told, a fluid change this late in the game can kill the transmission pretty fast. So, I'm lost.
Thanks again for any help.
#7149
#1, My door lights are reversed, when the doors are shut and locked, the door lights are on, while every other light shuts off... When the doors are open, the door lights are off, while every other light is on.... Help?
Somebody wired the lights improperly. Meaning somebody wanted the lights to illuminate the way u describe. U are going to have to get the fsm and try to trace the wires back. My guess is that rewired the door plunger switch on the car frame sills. Look at those.
#2, I want to buy a short throw shifter, but I'm having trouble finding the ones recommended in a previous post I had seen. The only one I'm finding is CustomMaxima's and TWM Performance. Suggestions?
#3, My windshield whiper fluid stopped spraying a few weeks ago, earlier that day, it worked fine... Is this a common problem? I can still hear the pump going, so did a hose just come undone? I would assume that, but my whiper fluid is still full. I can't imagine a hose just instantly clogged.
Might need a new pump. Might need new hose. Gotta trace the hoses see if anythin is coming out of the pump.
#4, When I turn on my blinkers, it turns off cruise control, the module stays on, but I have to hit the resume button. If I hit the resume button while the blinker is still on, it will completely reset and I have to set it again. I've read some sites on this, but they were all on other cars. Suggestions going from burnt out brake lights, to LED brake lights causing the problems. None of my lights are burned out. The right signal only does it sometimes, so I don't think the LED's are the problem. Another suggestion was that a turn signal bulb is shorting out with a brake light. Any ideas?
You have LEDs? I have never hrd of anyone having this issue. Im not sure if its normal for the cruise to turn off when the turn signals are on. I will have to check. If its nopt normal, i have to assume that someone wired it this way. Check the FSM for crusie control functionality.
#5, reverse lights flicker on and off when I move the shifter slightly, won't stay on.... Just read, looks like I have to replace a sensor and do a tranny fluid change. I'm at almost 160,000 miles, my tranny fluid is clean, but I've been told, a fluid change this late in the game can kill the transmission pretty fast. So, I'm lost.
U may jus have to rewire/resolder tha connection in the shifter.
Thanks again for any help.
Somebody wired the lights improperly. Meaning somebody wanted the lights to illuminate the way u describe. U are going to have to get the fsm and try to trace the wires back. My guess is that rewired the door plunger switch on the car frame sills. Look at those.
#2, I want to buy a short throw shifter, but I'm having trouble finding the ones recommended in a previous post I had seen. The only one I'm finding is CustomMaxima's and TWM Performance. Suggestions?
#3, My windshield whiper fluid stopped spraying a few weeks ago, earlier that day, it worked fine... Is this a common problem? I can still hear the pump going, so did a hose just come undone? I would assume that, but my whiper fluid is still full. I can't imagine a hose just instantly clogged.
Might need a new pump. Might need new hose. Gotta trace the hoses see if anythin is coming out of the pump.
#4, When I turn on my blinkers, it turns off cruise control, the module stays on, but I have to hit the resume button. If I hit the resume button while the blinker is still on, it will completely reset and I have to set it again. I've read some sites on this, but they were all on other cars. Suggestions going from burnt out brake lights, to LED brake lights causing the problems. None of my lights are burned out. The right signal only does it sometimes, so I don't think the LED's are the problem. Another suggestion was that a turn signal bulb is shorting out with a brake light. Any ideas?
You have LEDs? I have never hrd of anyone having this issue. Im not sure if its normal for the cruise to turn off when the turn signals are on. I will have to check. If its nopt normal, i have to assume that someone wired it this way. Check the FSM for crusie control functionality.
#5, reverse lights flicker on and off when I move the shifter slightly, won't stay on.... Just read, looks like I have to replace a sensor and do a tranny fluid change. I'm at almost 160,000 miles, my tranny fluid is clean, but I've been told, a fluid change this late in the game can kill the transmission pretty fast. So, I'm lost.
U may jus have to rewire/resolder tha connection in the shifter.
Thanks again for any help.
#7150
Not too sure what's causing this, But the last few days I've been getting a new, odd engine noise at around 2000-2500 rpm. Only happens when in gear (2 seems to be the worst). The noise gets louder the harder I accelerate. I know I have a leaky gasket from a service inspection not too long ago... could that be the problem here?
#7151
Not too sure what's causing this, But the last few days I've been getting a new, odd engine noise at around 2000-2500 rpm. Only happens when in gear (2 seems to be the worst). The noise gets louder the harder I accelerate. I know I have a leaky gasket from a service inspection not too long ago... could that be the problem here?
#7152
#7154
#7155
Not too sure what's causing this, But the last few days I've been getting a new, odd engine noise at around 2000-2500 rpm. Only happens when in gear (2 seems to be the worst). The noise gets louder the harder I accelerate. I know I have a leaky gasket from a service inspection not too long ago... could that be the problem here?
#7156
#7157
#7158
and... if it was a leak, wouldn't it also be audible in neutral as well?
EDIT: Disregard that, I accidentally stepped on the gas getting out of my car tonight (revved hard) and I heard the noise. So I revved a bit more... no noise until I stomped on the gas, in which case for the split second it hit 2400ish I could faintly hear it. Still though It's way more noticeable in gear.
Last edited by Silfrgluggr; 05-08-2011 at 12:42 AM.
#7159
is it possible to manually engage the fuel pump on 97 maxima
or to bypass the starter?
i have a fuel injection leak in my maxima and it runs fine, but it needs to crank over for a while before enough gas gets into the engine to start.
i'm worried my starter is starting to wear down because it's cranking so long all the time, so i was trying to find a way to engage the fuel pump manually before starting so that it catches faster.
thanks
jayme
i have a fuel injection leak in my maxima and it runs fine, but it needs to crank over for a while before enough gas gets into the engine to start.
i'm worried my starter is starting to wear down because it's cranking so long all the time, so i was trying to find a way to engage the fuel pump manually before starting so that it catches faster.
thanks
jayme
#7160
or to bypass the starter?
i have a fuel injection leak in my maxima and it runs fine, but it needs to crank over for a while before enough gas gets into the engine to start.
i'm worried my starter is starting to wear down because it's cranking so long all the time, so i was trying to find a way to engage the fuel pump manually before starting so that it catches faster.
thanks
jayme
i have a fuel injection leak in my maxima and it runs fine, but it needs to crank over for a while before enough gas gets into the engine to start.
i'm worried my starter is starting to wear down because it's cranking so long all the time, so i was trying to find a way to engage the fuel pump manually before starting so that it catches faster.
thanks
jayme
If the engine is taking a lot longer to crank than normal, clean TB and MAF per how tos. Check CKPS (tranny side).
Has the clutch been changed lately? If so, add a ground wire from the negative battery terminal to a bolt onto the tranny. SEARCH for WXM. There is a pic and thread on this issue.