Thank you, I did attempt to search but since I'm new I somehow didn't seem to find what I was looking for, my mistake, but I was sure that I'm not the first person to ask this question. Sorry abt that.

 

I didn't do any work to the car prior to it having problems. Only once it started having problems starting and that I noticed the stuttering did I start trying to diagnosis a problem. And spark plugs of course are a easy thing to check/replace and one's in there certainly needed replacement which i took care of. I've looked for how to check the coils but haven't came across what they are supposed to read on an ohm's meter i'll try and look a little harder.

 

[quote=pmohr;6958872]190.5 BHP, assuming you have no other mods, and your engine has been maintained to factory spec. But you'll sound and be regarded as an idiot/ricer.

Why would you want to take the muffler off? If you're looking to change out the exhaust with more free flowing components, just get a Y.

Or do a search, seriously.[quote]
Why take the muffler off? My reasoning is a muffler creates backpressure and therefore creates less horsepower also if you look at most Nascars they have short wide exhaust pipes with no mufflers. Respectfully I must disagree with your estimate as it has a substantial gain in acceleration and i think it sounds pretty dang nice.

 

You didn't just seriously compare the A32 with a VQ30 to a Nascar vehicle...did you? If you look at most Nascar cars, they're also carburated and OHV, so

Substantial gain in acceleration? Unless your old muffler was completely clogged up, you're just hearing the sound and thinking that it's faster. Have you done any actual testing, actual data to compare? Or are you just basing this off of your butt dyno?

Everyone has their own taste in what 'sounds nice', just look at the Honda community...

 

No problem. Tons of good info in the stickies w/in each forum.
Taking the OEM exhaust system as a whole, the muffler isn't the primary culprit of said backpressure IMO. Also, what do consider "substantial" gains???

 

Ive got my gear oil here now, and I cant seem to find the "how to" on changing my 5spd transmission oil, if anyone could point me out to any articles that would be great.

 

lol Honda community, I did compare a nascar to it but if you plug up an exhaust pipe on an engine nothing postive ever happens and the better an engine breaths the more horses it'll put down. I did 0-60 tests and with the muffler it was 7.5 without was 6.8

 

It's a sticky - http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...-gear-oil.html

 

I was wondering what it would take to switch from my BOSE stock radio to a newer Alpine one.

 

Simple. The correct adapter from your local Best Buy/Stereo store. Plug and Play, no hacking of wires etc...

 

Seriously, I searched 'replace bose headunit'.

Again, as the first post in this thread says, this thread is not a replacement for search!

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...stem-help.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...placement.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-question.html

And it goes on for 10+ pages from there.

 

Hi, I am a newbie, though I replaced myself a broken cable style power window regulator last year.

We have a nissan 95 maxima with automatic transmission, and we had a mechanic changing a CV boot last month.

Since then (coincidence??), the gear shift lever is really stiff and hard to switch from neutral to drive. I looked at the level of oil, and it was way above the maximum.

I am a bit perplex and do not know what to do??

mahalo to all,
nico

 

You say oil, are you talking about engine oil or trans fluid?
If trans fluid, did you check it properly, with the engine running?

Drain out the excess first, and see if that helps any (can't imagine it doing so, but overfilling the trans can cause operational issues).

Then, I'd disconnect the shift cable at the trans as an attempt to isolate the problem, either at the shift lever or at the trans.

 

I would like to know why when i put regular gas in my maxima the accelerator becomes harder to press down. The car performs the same but it seems like i have to stomp the gas with my heel to get the accelerator down.

 

Physically harder to depress?

The throttle sticking has nothing to do with what type of fuel you put in.

 

I went through Crutchfield.com to order my stereo and they sent me everything I needed to install my alpine system and new speakers in one weekend...it would have taken me only a couple of hours but my 60 year old dad thinks he knows more about detailed step-by-step instructions than I do and doesn't have the common sense to place a grounding wire under a screw.

 

Yes, but it only happens when i use a lower grade(octane) fuel.

 

Honestly it's either an extreme coincidence, or it's all in your head.

You are talking about physical resistance on the pedal, right? You didn't answer before.

 

yes, it's physically harder to depress i know so cause i found myself lifting in my seat pressing it down

 

Other than the PS belt, is it that terribly difficult to put on the drive belt on a 95 max?

Do I need to take a wrench to the tensioner, and if so, which way do I swing it?

I want this knowledge, in case I need to put a belt on in an emergency.

 

Are you sure it's not in your head?? I can feel a slight performance difference between 87 and 91, but that's understandable. Therefore, maybe you feel you have to press harder to get the car movin' (as if it had 91 octane)?? Our cars call for Premium fuel ICYDK.

 

Piece of cake to replace the belt.

You'll need a 14mm socket IIRC, an extension, and a ratchet. It's just like all other bolts/screws. CCW will loosen the tensioner which ultimately releases the tension on the belt, CW will tighten it.

 

No, it's rather easy. Say, 15 minutes your first time, something like that.



Wrench works best, it's a normal threaded stud.

 

I'm positive it's not in my head it's even putting some steady resistance just trying to hold the pedal in one place. The only octanes i use are 92 and 93 but the car is titled to my dad and he pays the gas cause my twin doesn't have a job and can't pay to drive his 4.6L OHV Explorer, so my dad and my mom will sometimes put regular in it because my cousin has a 96 maxima like mine and puts regular in her's, which still works even with 198k miles on it, but she has always put regular in it. sorry bout the lengthy explanation but just trying to explain my situation. Also I notice it temporarly after putting Jet Pep gas in it.

 

Im trying to wrap my head around how this particular type of tensioner works. Im use to the ones on rear wheel drive vehicles.

So loosening the bolt on the wheel: Does it release tension on a spring, that allows the wheel to come straight up, or else?

It looks like the top nut threads the tensioner wheel down right?
If so, why would I need to loosen the nut on the wheel itself?

 

whats a good suspension setup?
i was thinking kyb gr2 with megan springs how does that sound????

 

By 'wheel' I assume you mean the tensioner pulley?

The nut on the tensioner pulley is a locknut, holding the pulley in place where it is. Just think of it as an extra safety measure.

After loosening the locknut, you can use the upper bolt to move the pulley up/down per the picture above. With the locknut tightened, if you try to tighten or loosen the tensioner you're just going to be fighting the tension of the locknut, and you're either going to bend or break something.

FWIW this same design is used on RWD vehicles as well. The tensioner has nothing to do with drivetrain layout, just with manufacturer design.

Did you search at all? There are hundreds and hundreds of threads about suspension setups, not to mention a subforum dedicated to suspension.

 

I recently had tein basics installed at a local shop. They have done nothing right, they forgot to install front metal bearings on the front coilovers, didn't even open the instructions or accessory package until I brought it back, the back coilovers are making a loud creak, which sounds like something is rattling in the trunk. None of the washers or spacers were installed or the package even opened. Is there anything they may have done wrong, is there anything I can do to see if the rear is installed correctly.

It only happens driving and going over small bumps or just driving, if I push the rear up and down there is no noise. Is there any bearings or gasket that may have been left out or anything I can check?

Also under hard accelaration the car pulls to one side like there is some play, or sticking of the springs, but that seems to be coming to the front coilvers.

Please help....

 

Ive only seen the design of a tbi 4.3L gm engine. To put the belt on, Id put a ratchet on the wheel nut, and go against the tension, to take that off the drive belt.

Is this how this works?

What would help is a step by step of what to do. The reason is that I don't want to brake anything, as money is tight, and so is time.

Since I dont understand the design fully, a picture doesn't help, but a step by step would.

Im not being a butt, Im just being honest, and thanks for the help.

 

Both Pmohr and I have already told you how it works. Go try it, get under the car and you'll see what's going on.

 

No, that's not how it works.

Read my post above again, and examine the picture.

The step by step is just like I posted above. Loosen locknut. Work the tensioner bolt to raise the pulley up. Remove belt, install new belt. Lower the pulley down. Tighten locknut.

That's the best thing to do.

 

HI Gang,

I've been a member for awhile now, but I don't post retarded questions about "How do I do this?" because I'm not a dipsh1t and I know how to search. HOWEVER, this does make myself painfully aware that I never have contributed either...

Anyway

I wanted to know if anyone has any input on whether or not I should buy the $150 shipped Koyo radiator advertised in our parts offerings forum, or if the $88 Spectra Premium radiator is good enough (from RockAuto). I'd rather spend $100 then $150 if there isn't much of a difference, but then again I don't shop at Walmart or buy sh1tty tools.

Please and thank you.

-Austin

 

By no means is this what I would call educated advice, BUT...

Does anyone think this could have been caused by the mechanic lifting the car with a full undercarriage plate? Opposed to the arm assemblies they use in other common lifts?

In my 96max, the boys in the tire bays at Sam's Club would use it, and it would do weird things like pinch my fuel line... Maybe that could explain the cable issue...

 

Hello again,

I figure I might as well post this question too, as I think it relates to my cooling system (looking for advice on a radiator above)..

So when I start the car cold, after some tapping noises coming from around the pulley assembly (3-4 taps a second, sounds kind of like a lifter but the tap sound is prominent and unmuffled) I end up hearing a whirrring-semigroaning sound that seems to travel about laterally in the engine bay, near the firewall. I should note that I can only hear the sound moving about while sitting in the cabin, otherwise the engine noise is too loud to catch this under the hood.

The radiator has been in bad shape for awhile, and leaks coolant from the top of the plastic housing. This groaning only happens cold, not hot.

Is this air seeping into the coolant system? Obviously the sound goes away after the car is warmed up, but is this really bad for the water pump too? (I dread the water pump replacement)

Plus if anyone has any advice on that tapping sound I would appreciate that too.

Thanks a ton to those that have read this.

-Austin

 

my car is auto 130k miles and i want to change transmission oil but i don't know how to do it. i have to change the filter too? what kind/brand of oil should i buy? some help guys!!

 

That's really up to you. The Koyo is a good product at a pretty good price (compared to it's normal price). If you're not constantly taxing the limits of the cooling system on your car, chances are you'll never notice the difference. Personally I got a rad on eBay for ~$53 shipped, and it works just fine for me.

Very unlikely, given how the cable travels across the top of the engine bay. There would have to be some severe damage to the trans pan and everything else up front to damage the shift cable as well.

The only thing I can think of that matches your sound description is a timing chain rattle in the mornings, that's pretty common.

For the second noise, does it change at all if you rev the engine up a bit? Could be coolant trickling in to the heater core.

We don't have a filter, just a screen. You just spray it off with brake parts cleaner or similar.

From the stickies - http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...eck-level.html

 

Yes, it does go away when you rev it. It comes back just when the idler drops from over 1k from tapping the pedal to 750 in park.

Should I worry?

And thanks a bizzilion for responding to me, I really appreciate that.

-t

 

Hey guys im having some clutch issues, when i press in the clutch the engine rpm's drop and all my lights dim. This happened tonight when i was doing 50 in 5th, dropped it into 3rd i heard some chattering and by the time i got to the next light the car would not go into gear. I managed to get it home by shutting the car off, putting it in 3rd, starting it up and dropping the clutch. Ive been doing some reading about the throw out bearing and im not sure if its that or the input shaft bearing. Any help would be appreciated.

 

The RPMs drop to what? It's obviously normal for them to drop to idle.

You heard chattering going into 3rd, coming out of 5th, when you disengaged the clutch, engaged, what?

Have you checked the clutch master cylinder reservoir fluid level?

The groan could be a bearing on one of the pulleys, see if you can't locate the area of the noise any better.

 

Sorry about the confusion, if i was to try and hold the clutch pedal down the car would stall, the fluid level in the reservoir is fine. When the car is running i have a loud whine and when i try and press the clutch in it gets louder.