Enthusiasts forum right lol

Sorry fat fingers hit reply on phone instead of my t button on touch screen

 

1 - It is very similiar to a ball joint or a tie rod end. If you can detect any play in the moveable end, it is bad.

2 - You don't have to replace any part that is not bad. But your car is approaching 200K miles. If the part is still good, it is approaching the end of its life. I can't predict how long it will last. When you change the strut, you have to disconnect the sway bar link, so if you can afford the extra $$, I would suggest changing them.

CAUTION - when disconnecting a sway bar link, you have to have both wheels at the same height. DO NOT jack up one wheel and remove that sway bar link. Jack up both wheels as this will prevent the sway bar from having tension on it.

3 - Moog & AC Delco are good, TRW probably is OK. I am leary of Beck Arnley and have never heard of Mevotech.

 

Yes, I have replaced the fuel filter and I have also had the fuel pressure tested and it was fine.

 

Yes, I have replaced the fuel filter and I also have had the fuel pressure tested. All test were within manufactors specifications.

 

Get MOOG or autozone brand.

You dont have to replace unless they broken

 

Hello! I am a newbie and I need HELP! I have a 95 Max that has a starting problem! I have searched and read and tried almost everything!!! Most of the time you have to crank on it for long time. So far, it has always started for me, but it is getting VERY VERY bad! It sounds and feels like the spark occurs at the wrong time and it kicks back on the starter and it may backfire through the intake or the exhaust, but I don't know what is causing this. Here is a list of some things I have done to the car. I have done so much I may forget something: Most recently, I have replaced enginge (used). I had to replace the tranny when I purchased the car (last year). I have added ground strap from the starter bolt to the battery ground and from ECM grounds on top of intake to the battery. This did help a little, but still no fix like I had read about with others!! I have replaced both crank sensors, cam sensor, coolant tempature sensor and the starter. I have cleaned the throttle body and checked the TPS voltage. I have replaced the fuel filter and check the fuel pressure. On the MODIS scan tool it shows a cranking RPM of about 165 and it reads a start signal while cranking. All the tempatures and voltages appear to be correct. I have used an ohmn meter to verify the wire continuity from the sensors to the computer. I have used a lab scope to watch the signals to the computer from the cam sensor. When cranking I do not see any digital pulses, but when I finally do see a digital pulse, the engine will kick back and try to/will start. It does have a nondigital pulse on the wire when its not trying to start. The pulses are fine while the engine is running. You only see this problem when trying to start the engine. Runs perfectly after it starts. No codes, no missing....runs GREAT after it starts.
I don't know what else to try with this car!
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!

 

I have a 96' Infinimax (infiniti i30 with Max front end conversion). I also have an issue starting. I've recently replaced the starter (thinking this would resolve my problem) It still hangs starting and makes a very uncomfortable grinding noise when it finally turns over. Car runs perfect when it's started though. I've done everything I can think of. If you come up with any solutions let me know

 

My 4th gen's digital trip odometer resets every time I turn off the engine. Checked the fuses under the dash and they seem to be all ok. What's next?

 

I'm doing a swap in a 97 Max. I have an Infiniti i35 engine. The main issue the pathfinder the does.not bolt on. I tried using an edelbrock part# 32113 the space but my mechanic said its too large. What in the world do I need t make this bolt together any have any clues

 

I'm doing a swap in a 97 Max. I have an Infiniti i35 engine. The main issue the pathfinder tb does.not bolt on. I tried using an edelbrock part# 32113 tb spacer but my mechanic said its too large. What in the world do I need to make this bolt together anybody have any clues

 

Anybody have a working link to the PDF version of the full service manual? All the links I've found via the search are all broken.

Thanks!

 

Searching for fuse bx diagram for engine compartment to troubleshoot short, but no luck. My fuse box cover has apparently been replaced as it does not correspond to the fuse configuration. Found a project in the forum to collect pix of the diagrams on fuse box covers, but pix appear to have been deleted.

 

Can anybody help me find any tutorial online that can show me how to replace the WHOLE radiator support? I got into a car accident a few months ago and I've needed to replace a few things but the one big thing I need help on is replacing the radiator support. I've tried looking all over the forums but only found tutorials on how to replace the lower part of the rad support (which turns out I needed to replace anyway because of bad rusting). The bar in the middle which holds the hood latch is completely broken in half because of the accident, plus the hood doesn't lock in because the top bar of the rad support is bent back. So I had to temporarily use zip ties to hold the hood down which looks SOOO ghetto and embarrasing

I've uploaded some pics into an online album so you can see the damage (and my ghetto contraption).

http://imgur.com/a/Y5ma4#DKPlM

 

Check falloneone's signature. He has a downloaded link of the FSM

 

Add a ground wire from the negative battery terminal to a bolt on the tranny. Clean all ground points. Might need to replace starter. Sound like its weak to me.

 

If its grinding like that, either the starter u got is reman and not the correct tooth or the flywheel is missing teeth.

 

To my knowledge, 96 through 98 max are the same, the 99 is different. But you can down load the FSM from here:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

and click on the year desired.
The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file, the starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file.

Foldout.pdf is what you want to look at. Page 4 (at least in the 97 manual) has the layout of the fuse block that is under the hood by the battery.

Here's a photo of my 97 Max:

 

Hi there everyone... And thanks if anyone knows what might be happening.

I just replaced the thermostat and now my car is WAY hotter reading than before.

Before, it would stick right around half way constantly. I was worried because it would peg there while idling and go lower while at speed, seemingly cooled by the air.

Now, it goes between the upper two tick marks on the heat gauge and then will lower to maybe 1/4" beneath the lower-top Hot upper end tick. Unrelated now to idle or in motion.

Is there any sensable explanation for this?

Could it be that my old thermostat was dead but locked in the out position, and now it's closing and opening properly but at a higher temp than I'm used to? Or any thing else I should be worried about?

Thanks!

 

The needle of the temperature gauge should be right in the middle. The indication with the new thermostat is not correct and needs to be fixed.

Most likely the new thermostat is either bad or the wrong one.

 

I've heard from asking around since that posting that there are probably air pockets in the coolant system which need to be burped, which was said would also cause my lack of heat from the vents.

Does this hold any merit? The thermostat was an entire bolt-on assembly, matched mating and looked to be an appropriate approximation of what was priorly in there, outer casing nearly exact.

I am not doubting you but I'm curious about the air bubble hypothesis.

 

My mechanic has told me I need to put transmission oil in the area where the vss sensor (I believe it's the correct name) in my transmission is located, where the drive axles connect as the main transmission oil doesn't arrive there. I recently blew that part; he said it was lack of oil. Is this true? If so how much oil do you need and when do you find out it's filled? Also I was wondering if there's a way to figure out how to connect the hoses that come from the radiator side into two little tubes in the transmission?

 

U sure u put the thermostat in the correct way. Its easy to put it in backwards then u will get higher readings.

But not really sure why u changed it out in the first place. From your earlier post, seems the old one was workin fine.

Any air bubbles would bubble out to the reservior.

 

Air pockets could do that but by driving the car, the air pockets/bubbles (as previously stated) will work their way out into the reservoir. Then, when the engine cools off, water is sucked out of the reservoir into the radiator. This could take several heat-up/cool down cycles for all the air to be expelled this way. However, the reservoir does not hold enough water for this process. You would have to fill it before you start the car each time.

So right now, is the reservoir full? If not, fill it with antifreeze mixture. Also, before you start the car and the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and see if the radiator is full. If not, obviously you need to fill the radiator.

 

After several internet searches (a lot of which lead here), I feel like the problem I've been having with my Maxima lately is MAF related but I want to make sure it's mostly MAF and not other things. My goal is to keep from changing parts if trouble in one system is causing all the other codes. It's a 1996 Maxima with 235K miles and original everything.

A brief description of the symptoms: I had some consistent rough idling/running about a year ago; I changed my plugs, ran some seafoam in the gas and air intake and it went away. Last week, my car would idle fine but stalled and died when I shifted to reverse. It nearly kept me from being able to back out of my parking spot and get home. It ran like normal in Drive up until a few days ago when I developed the latest symptoms --> No trouble in reverse this time, but Maxima stalled and died quietly at a traffic light. I start the engine right back up and keep going. At the next traffic light, the engine sputters for about 100 yards at ~40mph and dies; no power steering, can't start the car unless I put it in neutral (still moving) and it starts fine, I shift into Drive and gain acceleration. Ten seconds after that, stall and dies with a little more difficulty in starting, same procedure as above, I get some acceleration before it dies again. I think it happened 4 times until I could coast into a parking lot. I stopped in the lot, put it in park, started and revved the engine fairly high for a bit, became satisfied that whatever gunk was in there was out and drove home. Today a similar happening but on a less convenient stretch of road. Car stalled and dies, leaving me without power steering going around a sharp curve. Not fun. After about 15 restarts, I limp home to type this now not so brief history.

Here is the OBII readout from my little unit, P0100 (MAF), P0325 (Knock Sensor), P0400 (EGR) and P0500 (Speed Sensor). Can my problems be attributed to JUST one of these codes? My treatment options are as follows:

1.) clean MAF sensor and pray it doesn't try to kill me by stalling in the middle of a curve again,
2.) swap MAF sensor and use same prayers as above,
3.) throw my credit card at it (and the dealership) to fix everything
4.) cut my losses and retire the Maxima
5.) Other (in case you fine folks have better ideas)

 

Keep in mind that there a two thermostats: one physically regulates the coolant flow, the other (on the driver's side of the engine bay) controls the gauge on the dash. Test it with a multimeter, search for the how-to. Air pockets in the system can cause high temperatures. The system should be cleared of air pockets.

 

My money is on the MAF. It's symptoms are similar to what you have described. Search the forum for that trouble code or MAF problems and see if they match up. Although, the KS, EGR and Speed Sensors shouldn't be giving you problems like that. So the MAF is probably the culprit through elimination.

 

Did really mean to write what you wrote? That is so incorrect.

There is only one thermostat and it regulates coolant flow as you said.

On the driver's side where the radiator hose connects to the engine are 2 SENSORS. The one closer to the radiator hose controls the temperature gauge in the dash and has one wire connecting it. The other SENSOR that is right next to the first one has 2 wires connecting it and this one is used by the ECU.

 

Hi everyone, new dude here. I just have a situation, I wanted to know if it was possible if somebody can help me, I have a 95 Nissan maxima, and my ac hasn't been getting as cold as it should, so I had someone look at it, and add some r134 to it, I wasn't sure if I needed r134 or r12, he said r134, so I took his word, so as he's adding the r134, the car's still not getting colder, till he grabs a water bottle and squirt to the front of my car behind the grill, and it blows cold, so I pay him and ride off, on the way home the air would blow cold while we drive, and warm up when idle, okay so now I go home to get ready for work, hop in the car about an hour later, pump up the air, hoping to feel the cold air, its Houston, it's hot down here. I felt hot air blowing in my face all the way to work. I'm so mad, its hotter than it was before. Idk what's going on? Could he g
Had overcharged it, maybe put the wrong stuff in, or do I need to clean out that place behind. My grill. PLZZ HELP. THANKS

 

R134a is the correct stuff for your car.

Check behind the grill. The radiator and the a/c condensor (which looks like a radiator) are mounted there, the a/c condensor first, then the radiator. There is a space of maybe an inch between them and somtimes this space gets filled with junk and blocks the cooling air. Clean out any junk and then get a garden hose and spray the water through the a/c consensor and radiator.

But I hate to say it, I think you have a leak in your a/c system. You're going to have to take the car to a real mechanic and have them check it for leaks.

 

Thank you so much for your reply. Well when I got off of work Last night, I was really curious about him spraying that water bottle and my car getting cold, so I took 4 water bottles and did the same, COLD.air again, I think I do need to clean out the area that you mentioned

 

So can anybody tell me how to completely remove the rad support? I tried checking out the 99 Maxima FSM but it doesn't show anything about removing and replacing the whole rad support.

 

If you have to ask this question, I seriously doubt that you can do it. People that can do this will look at the car and say yes I can. You have to take the bumper & grill off and then using torches, cut off the entire front that is behind there. Then you get a new support and weld it on.

Look through this thread, it has a lot of pictures. It is not a tutorial, but hopefully you will get an idea of what is involved.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...port-swap.html

 

I went to the car wash, and super soaked that front area behind the grill, I still can't seem to get all the bugs out. Lol, I coulda sprayed more, but wanted to make sure I was doing okay , and not mess nothing up. Would it be okay to blast that whole front side with water.

 

Yes. If you think about it, that is going on when you drive on the highway while its raining. Just try and keep the wand spraying as straight through the fins as possible.

 

Okay cool, and is this the best method to use to clean that area out

 

No. The best way is to take the radiator and the a/c condensor out of the car and clean them but this will do pretty good too.

 

Okay, and I did notice some tape rapped around the left end of the tube you put the r134 in, which could be why my air isn't the coldest, the tape is old, so I'm not sure if I should just retape it, if so could you tell me which tape is best

 

My cars do not have any tape wrapped around the metal pipe. Maybe some one else tried wrapping the pipe for whatever reason. I doubt if this tape has anything to do with your problem. If you want to re-wrap the pipe, get some kind of foam insulating tape suitable for outdoor use.

 

Oh okay. I just thought that maybe the tape was covering a crack in the pipe, Idk, and the r134 wasnt making it through

 

96 Maxima 159,000 miles Automatic Tran

Problems:
1. Stalls when I shift to reverse, the rpms just die and . All other gears work fine. It will also stall sometimes when stopping, hitting bumps, or turning. Check engine light is on.

2. When accelerating, the car is sluggish and the rpms go up way faster than the mph.

3. Check Engine Light is on

CEL Codes:
When I pulled the codes from the ECU via the blinking CEL I got 5 codes...I know its a lot don't judge me


1103 Improper Shifting to First Gear (A/T)
0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor
1005 EGRC Solenoid valve
0304 Knock Sensor
0401 Intake Air Temp Sensor

After researching here I suspect that the mass air flow sensor is what is causing the sluggishness, and high rpm low mph problem. Hopefully it is also the cause of the stalling when put in reverse also. I feel that the MAF should be the first problem I attack. I'm waiting for one from a junkyard to be delivered that I bought for $75.00. That I will replace the current MAF with. I also think that the knock sensor is the least urgent code, and could be later.

Any ideas on the other codes? Will the Intake Air Temp Sensor, Improper Shifting to First Gear (A/T) or EGRC Solenoid valve cause the reversing problem? Are these problems able to be fixed by a novice? I can handle the knock sensor because of the tutorial and the Intake Air Temp Sensor should be easy enough to change, as well as the MAF. What is the cause of the Improper Shifting to First Gear (A/T), and EGRC Solenoid valve codes? Is the EGRC Solenoid valve something that I need to replace? I haven't cleaned the TB, IACV, or EGR yet but I do keep the oil changed lol.

Any help is greatly appreciated