wondering where all common rust spots are on the A32. I'm about to go look at a 95 SE with sunroof, and 2 days ago i looked at a 97 and it was in horrible condition, especially in the sunroof.

i'm new to the maxima but by no means new to nissan, many S14s i've seen and owned did not have rust just because it had a sunroof. i hope maximas are the same.

are they?

 

I have a 99 GLE. My harmonic balancer broke off about 3 weeks ago. That was replaced as well as the serpentine belt. The belt started squealing, it was tightened and quit. It started squealing again and the car was getting harder to start. I went to the store this morning, came back home to drop off milk and heat up my food. I went to leave out for work about 15 minutes later. My car wouldn't start. I just hear a single click. I can't tell if it's coming from the ignition switch or the engine though. Anyways, jumped the car, even put a new battery. Nothing. Everything works great in the car, no dimming or anything. My brakes are hard to push and hard to steer, and my brake light, oil light, and battery light are on. Any suggestions? I am strapped financially and don't and can't afford to fix a ton of things if it's not the problem. I know it can be the starter and/or solenoid switch, but is that it? Thanks

 

The clicking you hear is most likely the starter solenoid. But you will have to verify where the click is coming from. I find it amazing that you can't tell if the click is from the starter that is under the hood of if it's from the ignition switch in the car.

And when you say the the brakes are hard to push and the car is hard to steer and the dash lights are on, is this with the engine running?

 

It sounds to me like the sound is coming from under the hood, but I am trying to do all this by myself (and knowing nothing about cars).

The brakes are hard to push, hard to steer, and dash lights on with my key in the ON position. Well, the brakes and steering no matter what I do, but of course my dash lights when my keys are in. When the car was working I didn't have this problem.

 

THe MAF is most likely the culprit for all your problems. But u will need to replace teh Intake Sensor and EGR Solenoid as well to get rid of the codes.

Clean the TB and MAF per how tos. But i believe your MAF is toast

 

You installed a new battery and prolly didnt have to. Sounds like a bad starter to me.

The stiff brakes are prolly the result of a bad brake booster. With the car off, depress the break pedal a few times. EAch time, the brake pedal should get stiffer until it becomes really hard to depress, this means the booster is working.

If u depress the brakes once and the pedal is really stiff, either the booster is bad or a caliper is seized.

Regarding the belt, it sounds like the belt was improperly installed or the balancer u got was junk. Did u buy OEM or aftermarket?

 

I already had the battery so I didn't spend the money on another one . The belt , I believe, was improperly installed. He had an EXTREMELY hard time putting it on. The balancer was aftermarket. The car has been driving perfectly, just the belt squealing and hard to start. I just didn't know if the belt was related to what is going on now. I've never had my steering wheel and brakes lock up except for when my steering wheel belt broke. After the car sitting that's when the brakes became hard to depress. They work, but it's VERY hard to push it down. Would that have anything to do with the car not starting? If it's the starter or solenoid switch would that cause the battery, oil, and brake lights to come on? I'm sorry, I just don't know anything about this and trying to figure it out first. Thank you

 

Open the hood. Get in the car and leave the door open. Lean you head towards the outside and then try to start the car. You should be able to easily tell where the click is coming from. As I said earlier, its probably the starter.

This is all normal for a car that does not have the engine running.

One thing that you did not mention in your original post was if the check engine light was on. It should have been on. If it wasn't, the light bulb is probably burned out. Having that light working is an important aid to knowing if you car is working properly.

If the mechanic had loosened the belt tensioner, there would be no problem installing it. If he didn't know to do this, then the guy is a bozo and shouldn't work on cars. The new belt may be stretched too tightly, which will lead to its early failure.

Again, this is all normal when the engine is not running.

Overall, I think that you need another starter. You want to get the entire starter assembly, which includes the solenoid. If you aren't going to install it yourself, find a different mechanic for this and have him check the tension on both belts.

 

If the brake pedal is very difficult to depress with the engine running, its either a bad booster or seized caliper.

The brake, battery light being on while the car is running is usually caused by a bad alternator or a bad belt.

Oil light on while the car is running means that u are low on oil or your oil pressure switch is bad.

 

i am new to this forum and have no idea how to operate it, so here goes, i have a 1997 nissan maxima and the battery keeps dying, i've replaced my alternator and starter. The mechanics are just taking my money because i don't know anything about cars. When the battery is charged i can drive for a couple of days and then all the lights on my panel blinks and the car just stops and will not start. What the heck is the problem.

 

Obviously there is something draining your battery or the alternator isnt charging the battery.

First u need to see if the alt charging yur battery. You will need a multimeter for this.

Check the voltage at the battery with the car off, shd be 12 volts roughly.

Then check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. If the alt is charging the battery then the voltage shd read as 14.4 volts roughly.

If the alt isnt charging the battery u may need to replace the positive battery cable goin from the alt to the battery or replace the alt.

If the alt is workin then u got a bigger problem: U have to find out what is draining the battery. Do u have aftermarket alarm draining power? When all switches are off are the electrical accessories really off? Do u have power seats draining power?

 

I replaced the MAF. The sluggishness went away instantly, but for about an hour afterwards I was still having stalling problems when I put the car in reverse. I decided to drive on the highway to see if it would help the computer realize that I had replaced the MAF and I guess it worked! My car has not stalled once since I drove those 22 miles, and I've put it in reverse like 20 times. I'm keeping my fingers crossed but I hope that the problem is fixed. Now I'm gonna move on to cleaning the TB, and replacing the Intake sensor and EGR solenoid. Should I clear the codes now? I'm grateful for this community and so glad that its thriving and that everyone is helpful. I'm trying to find a good Lexus forum for my sisters 94 gs300 and most of them are not helpful to say the least. Thanks again!

 

quick question, i see a lot of people say that they order their parts off of ebay but im one of those that doesnt trust ebay, so where are some places or websites where i can order parts for a good price..as in not an arm and a leg

 

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/

http://www.everythingnissan.com/

Dave Burnette
South Point Nissan
Austin TX 78745
1-888-254-6060
mention Maxima.org

http://www.courtesyparts.com/

 

Replace the KS per how tos as well. Unlock some of that lost power since u runing in ssafe mode with a bad KS

 

We got the starter out and had it tested. It is passing while on the machine, but the guy said he doesn't know how. He said it sounds extremely weak and can't imagine it starting a car. But he said it's not the solenoid switch. So now I have to get the new starter and hope that is it. Thanks to all that have responded to me. I will post updates when I can get the starter.

 

Thanks so much for your help. This is PERFECT! I am quite embarrased to admit that the fuse box cover had been forceably installed backwards, but your input helped me to figure this out!

 

On my 98 Max im getting the P0155 code for O2 sensor in Bank 2 Sensor 1. Is this the sensor that is located closest to the radiator and on the Y-pipe?

 

No. You are correct that bank 2 is towards the radiator, but sensor 1 is on the exhaust manifold before the Y pipe.

 

New here cant post tread. Just stupid question. Is it engineers of Nissan, you here at forum and lower radiator support manufacturer ever herd of HOT DIP GALVANIZING. How is possible that an serious car manufacturer allow rusting of an cross member (lower radiator support). What is this - Yugo??? Boot Infiniti I30 97 at auction and already engine cradle fell of at LRS.

 

We the menbers of Maxima.org are well aware of this and feel your pain. Biatching at us isn't going to help you. Contact Nissan and let them know how you feel.

 

Accurse guys you are not guilty nothing. Just I wonder how no one come with idea that LRS should be galvanized. As I read at this post Nissan (my Infiniti) have a lot problems with undercarriage rust. My Acura that I thought to sell is from down galvanized and then coated with rubberized compound. Small rust spots I covered with cold galvanizing compound. Previous owner of my Infiniti didn't do nothing about rust. Well if is to much rust trough I will sell Infiniti and stick with Acura. Acura is 21 years in MN winters and no serious rust and specially not at undercarriage.
I was this morning at Infiniti dealership to pickup paint. I said them about LRS and they said never herd of such problem

 

is the dyno app really accurate and free?

 

so im going to start working on my car and i want to get the simple things out of the way. for some reason, my cruise control hasnt been working for almost a year, havent had the chance to figure out whats wrong. when i try to turn it on, the cruise control light flickers but doesnt stay on. i do alot of long drives out to yards for parts and such, so i tend to get tired of leaving my foot on the pedal (lazy), any help would be appreciated.

 

Okay I have a situation that I could use some tips on. My 99 has been sitting for about 14+ months right now. I have been collecting parts to bring her back to life since I got back from overseas. Doing some research here and online about starting a car that has been sitting for an extended period of time revealed that I have my work cut out for me.

- Drain fuel tank and flush fuel lines
- Replace fuel, oil and air filter
- Replace oil, coolant, and fuel plus Seafoam
- Battery is dead so...
- Replace Tstat
- Tranny flush
- A few other minor things...

The big emphasis seemed to be on the fluids. Especially fuel that has been sitting. Im looking for some advice or direction to some advice on what else I should or could do before I cranks it up again for the first time. Is Seafoam effective in treating the fuel system?

Thanks.

 

A common happening is that the rubber bumper that contacts the cruise control disconnect switch that is on the brake pedal falls out. This makes the cruise control think that the brake pedal is depressed and it will not engage. So look under the dash. Follow the brake pedal up and you will see two switches. One is for the brake lights and the other is for the cruise control.

 

Can anyone give me some insight on where the O2 sensor for Bank 2 Sensor 1 is? I have looked all over and cant seem to find it. I can find the one on the Y-pipe and the one after the cat but I cant seem to find the one I need to change.

Edit: After posting I did some searching and I think I might have it figured. So there are a total of 3 O2 sensors. (2 upstream and one downstream) There is one on the radiator side of the Y-pipe and one closer to the firewall. I have a P0155 code (heater circuit, or something like that) and need to change the one closest to the radiator side.

 

Yup u found it

 

I have a 98 maxima with 18x8.5 falkens all around. I wanted to do a strut/shock replacement and was wondering if anyone had some quick insight on what a safe drop would be to avoid any rubbing and what combination would give that to me.

Appreciate the help.

If this is a stupid and common question, I apologize in advance.

 

Hey guys! I've got a question rather than a problem.

I took out my reasonator (THats right after that catalitic converter, right?) and removed that muffler out. We swapped it with a cherry bomb and I got the NICE MEAN growl. Eventually, it was too loose so I was tired of the ghetto rig.

THE QUESTION

I went to Meineke Exhaust shop to have the weld the pipes on better, and after they welded the cherry bomb into place. BAM- NO SOUND. I mean SILENCE! Just like stock.

So if I like the semi- loud sound, why can't I just slice a few wholes in my muffler? When I had the pipes entirely open it was a nice low growl from this v6. So would a muffler whole give it a ricey 4 banger sound or just more of a tasteful growl? Thanks!

 

It IS a common question so do a SEARCH and u will get plenty of options. Or jus read this thread. Its pretty good.

I have tokico Blues and H&R springs. Its a mild drop 1.3" front but it really tightened up steering and handling. I like it.

If u dont want to drop it jus get the blues and install onto stock springs. It will make the car handle so much better.

I dropped my car on stock 15s because i had at least 8 inches of ground clearance.

 

When u installed the cherry bomb without welding u essentially the noise u was hearing was a leaky exhaust. As soon as u welded it on, it performed like any regular muffler. Altho a cherry bomb should have given u some noise even if it was welded. So thats pretty weird.

I have a bullet racing straight through muffler. Nice bassy sound under light throttle. Quiet at idle. And quiet under hard throttle but free flowing. Its perfect bro. cost 20 bucks from ebay, SS construction, comes with a silencer to help pass state inspection.

u can get a flowmaster or magnaflow but be weary of the model u get or ur exhaust will be so low that u will hate it.

 

I have concluded that my blower resistor needs to be replaced. However, I cannot seem to find it. I have viewed multiple threads and viewed several photos, none of which match up to my unit. My car was manufactured in 2/99. I am not sure if that makes a difference. Please see the photos and direct me accordingly. Thanks for any help provided.

 

I'm having a similar problem as another thread, but it's not quite the same. Periodically, the Bose radio, clock, wipers, and power mirrors all lose power. Usually once they lose power, they will remain off until car is turned off and then turned on again. When they come back, clock is at correct time, and radio station and volume are the same as when power was lost. Also does not lose station presets. Before I take it in somewhere, has anyone had a similar experience? Thanks!

 

It could be a bad relay. On the left side of the fuse panel are 3 relays. you will probably have to remove the big plastic panel that is below the steering column. The top relay is called the "accessory relay" and may be the problem. Swap it with the bottom relay, which is called the "blower motor relay" and see what happens. DO NOT swap with the middle relay which is the "ignition relay".

 

Looking at your first photo, it is about centered left to right and about one fourth of the way down from the top edge. It is that white plastic piece in the black section with the foam covered wires on it.

 

Dennis, thanks for the info. However, I believe the piece you are referring to is defined as the amplifier and is structurally different than the resistor. The resistor that I purchased is about 4 inches long by 1 inch wide. I will however check the amplifier as well. Who knows, maybe the amplifier is the problem and not the resistor, or a combination of both. Thanks for your contribution. I will keep you updated.

 

Okay, So I must commend you all for every great amounts of information on here. I mean I've really brought this car back from the dead more than once. It's my DD. 1998 Max from Canada (no rust problems either!). But am no longer using as my DD; due to this vibrating at 45-65 (wont take her above 55 anymore until this is fixed).And due to a steering or alignment issue pulling to the right. So to give some background.I have new control arms, bushings, and tie rods-inner and outer To be installed.I have already replaced the driver side stabilizer bar (sway bar) mounting bracket that was literally ripped open, and the bushings on both sides that were eaten dead by the steering racks' leak. Along with new stabilizer end-links- both sides. Four new tires all the way around With Balance; -had rotated to see if that effected the steering/alignment problem or the vibration, nothing. So Before I got get a lifetime alignment at my Firestone that also has the road-force balancing machine I wanted to get another opinion on this. Before I do that I'm intending on getting a new steering rack on her as well. So yeah, The Whole front end of the car vibrates, like I can see my hood - the whole front end moving up and down side to side slightly at 55+ so yeah lets not do that again I don't like seeing my visor vibrate that much haha. The steering wheel gets the brunt IMO. But not sure since all my searches and readings on here lead to different conclusions, not many with a solid solution. So I got this car about 3 months ago? and everything was golden at first. 6 or 8 weeks ago this all started slowly, and is getting worse. There is a weird couple dings here, and there, makes me think someone or something? got ran over at a very high speed and caused all the steering problems, Then this car sat for a good amount of time in the sun. ( I see odd discoloration of interior ) As someone found out how to save some money and hide the problems to sell this car to someone (ME). I have myself, and 2 other big dudes help me check my ball joints and bushings on the front end by jacking her up pretty high and pulling and pushing on the wheel checking for ANY play and everything's nice and tight. I do see every rubber boot, dried, cracked, and no grease left. Bushings look good, but still no play in wheels when its jacked up. Could my shocks/springs need replacing? Errr I mean could the shocks springs be causing any of this (im thinking sagging springs?). Wheel Bearings? Bent tie rods inner&outer? Bent CV Axles? Not Tire, But maybe Wheel(rims) out of Balance/ Bent? Steering Universal Joints- Column to Rack? Strut Dampers? Tell Me something that I am Missing, or what?

????








edit- 6/19/2011
I had just replaced the 2 front tires. and guess this guy did a better job balancing
the rims+tires, Cause 99.99% of my Front End Vibration is GONE.
now, I still Have noticed terrible leakage from power steering rack
and all boots cv axle, steering rack... so will go fourth in seeking my
terrible pull to the right. that has my steering wheel cocked to the left.
on top of noticeable incorrect tire tread wear. . .
have a long was to go with this car.. as in seeing...
i just noticed a clank-ing from the timing chain case..
sigh.... this car was NEVER maintained..

 

I was doing some research and learned something interesting. On cars with manual heater controls, there is a resistor shown in the parts diagram. (part number 27150-1E405, replaced by 27150-2J000).

http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...llustration_2/ see item # 8

But...

On cars with auto climate control, that resistor is not in the diagram.

http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...llustration_5/

I am making a guess that your car is equipped with auto climate control.

Looking in the Nissan FSM, the index has a listing for "Blower resistor (manual A/C)" but not for auto a/c. In the auto a/c section of the FSM, in the "fan does not blow" section, it refers to the "fan control amplifier", which is the part in the photograph that I incorrectly pointed out as the resistor and you responded back saying that was the amplifier.

So by asking for a blower resistor, you got the incorrect part for your car. While it serves the same basic function, the amplifier is not a resistor, it is a Darlington driver power amplifier transistor. It will send between 4 and 12 volts to the blower motor depending on what the control panel in the dash tells it.

 

Live and learn I suppose. Through trial and error I found that manual select fan speeds use resistors and automatic climate control systems use amplifiers. My system is the automatic climate control, thus the part the dealership sold to me was the wrong part. They were nice enough to take it back and apply the price to a new amplifier. Simple install and now everything works perfectly. Thanks for the help mate.