My 96 Maxima is whistling. It only does it when warmed up. It was doing it only at idle and as soon as I revved a bit it was gone. Now it is less at idle, rises quickly in volume and pitch on first gas, then disappears at 15-20mph, only to return when back down to those speeds. Sometimes switching to neutral takes care of it, sometimes it doesn't.

I checked for vacuum leaks but couldn't find any.

I recently had my starter replaced and told the mechanic about this. He said he suspected the intake manifold gasket (he says he sprayed ether on it an it changed the engine behavior), but didn't have time to do anything with it. As soon as I got it back the check engine light was on (it was not on before I brought it for the starter change).

Any thoughts? Thanks

 

i have searched many places and can't find a way to remove the ashtray in my 1997 maxima

 

And the code is...?

So you sprayed the UIM gasket as the mechanic did, but you couldn't replicate what he said happened? How did you check for vacuum leaks?

I searched 'remove ashtray'

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...erference.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-ash-tray.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...n-ashtray.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ray-issue.html

 

The codes:

04 01: Intake Air Sensor
03 04: Knock Sensor
01 02: Mass Air Flow Sensor

I did not spray the gasket, only the mechanic.

I looked for obvious leaks in the hoses, but couldn't see or hear anything. Mechanic confirmed this.

Why would these sensors only go off after the starter was changed?
Could the spraying of ether set them off?

 

More than likely he wanted to make sure it worked before hooking everything back up, and that's what's set off the IAT and MAF codes.

Grab yourself a can of starting fluid or brake parts cleaner, see if you can't find a leak.

 

Let me say, I've been lurking for a week or so reading up on all of the info here, and you guys have made quite a resource out of this site! (applause, applause!!)

That being said, all of my reading has gotten me as far as I am right now, thank you, but I have an opinion question, as I've reached a fork in the road.

I am not a noob to wrenching, but definitely fresh to anything with a computer in it! I am working on my GFs 96 Maxima - a departure from my usual knuckle busting on my 65 Impala and its 327...

That being said I read through several of the posts regarding the IACV, TB, and idle adjusting - which allowed me to fix a problem with RPMs "sticking". (No codes ever showed, MAF clean, TB clean, so I adjusted the screw on top of the IACV and it's better now!)

I am investigating an oil leak as well, aiming for the lower oil pan and valve covers. I already removed and replaced the lower pan, amazingly still had factory "Super Grey" on it, and it was sealed perfectly.

It's taken me a bit to remove all the lovely sensors and gadgetry from the top of the engine and get the valve covers off - but they are loose and that brings me to my fork. The engine DRIPS oil after driving and there was plenty of evidence of leaking just by visual inspection.

Gaskets set me back the staggering price of $70 (remember the most expensive gasket I'm used to are my Remflex header gaskets, out of CHOICE, which were $40 ) so when I took both valve covers off, I was surprised to see what appear to be healthy, sturdy, non leaking gaskets. My plan was to replace them anyways, but once I saw them, I question if they are indeed bad and leaking?

The pictures will show the build up and grim on the covers, evidence of leaks, though I'm not sure how past - how present, againt not my car and the GF has 0 precise memory on what's been done.

Again, there were some loose screw on the front cover, but I had to break every bolt loose on the rear. Which blows since the oil drip happened/s in the oil filter/lower pan area, indicating rear valve cover...

the CPS, timing cover, lower manifold, all are "clean" no fresh leakage and wouldn't explain the oil mess on front and rear of engine...

Alright here're the shots! (I noticed in looking, the slopes of the covers show a bit of build up... enough for this mess and a steady drip when the engine is warm?)

Rear Bank - TB side


Front Bank - Timing side


Front VC - Rad side


Rear VC


Front VC Gasket Timing Side

 

bump?!?!? You guys usually chime in pretty quick.....

 

Will wheels from a 2002 maxima fit correctly on a 1996?

 

my car is having a groaning noise from the front end at all speeds but is most loud at 40mph and again at 80mph. I figure it is my wheel bearings but nissan wants 700 dollars per wheel. i'll try somewhere else but is there any way to do this yourself? And any idea what a more modest price might be? 98 gxe 180,000 miles

 

From the first post:
Short answer: yes.

Price out the bearings at your local auto parts stores, here's the writeup: http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/704

Mine you if the bearing has been out long enough, you might have more parts to replace than just the bearing itself.

 

No reason to bump (it doesn't even do anything, considering the thread is a sticky).

What exactly was your question? Where it could be leaking from?

Is it leaking around the oil filter area, or down onto the oil filter area?

Have you looked at the OPSU yet to see if it's leaking? That's a common area as well.

 

Well, thanks for the help pmohr, I installed the new tensioner with the old guide, the fit is off a little bit but the plunger is still contacting most of where its supposed to on the old guide. Long story short - purrs like a kitten, aside from the noisy injectors and everything else

Now to figure out what all runs off of fuse 40 aside from the clock and radio memory pre-sets. :O with the 7.5 amp fuse in, she pulls 120milliamps even with the security system in sleep mode, without it, its sitting at 10. Stupid factory bose systems =[

 

Fuse #40 covers a bunch of different systems:

 

well i just bit the bullet and went to pep boys it ended up being 500 bucks for the front bearings...they wanted to change my tie rod ends and my control arms too but i can do that myself.

 

My 98 driver door light is always off when I open the door, replaced bulb, no help. (rt doorside ok)

And,

My interior dome light does not turn on when i open the door. It works if I push the button. odd. (rt doorside ok)

 

...do what?

Why are you post whoring everywhere?

 

Have you actually looked anywhere?

Classifieds, junkyards, eBay, parts cars. That's about the only places you can get a used one.

And no need to post *****, seriously.

 

Hey i have a 99 max and i am in need for some more hp and speed i was wanting todo the 3.5 engine swap and was wodering how much work that would be to swap the engine and transmission and around how much i would be spending in total , thanks

 

Seriously? Have you searched? Read the stickies? Priced out an engine and trans?

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/4...swap-info.html

4AT or 6MT? Full swap or hybrid? Doing it yourself or paying to have it done? Keeping it stock or modding it at the same time?

99% of your answers can be found through search. The rest, need a lot more information than you've given.

 

Okay... Here's what I'm hoping to find...
Headlights like those on the latest Audi R8, with the LED daytime running lights that go along the lower edge of the headlights. I'd like to get lights with LED DRLs like that for my 1999 Maxima.
I know it's probably a long shot, but ... just looking for anywhere that might sell something like this. Google didn't turn up anything.
Thanks in advance!

 

Unless you're going to make them yourself, or buy them from someone on the org who's going to make them for you, good luck.

 

Pretty much, I expected a lot more evidence of bad gaskets, so I'm wondering if it looks "normal" for a leak on these engines. With the oil leak seeming to be coming from the rear of the engine, it is further confusing to me, that I had to break the bolts loose on the rear VC.

The oil leaks off the rear of the engine, by the oil filter and OPSU. I just got done pulling the tire and engine guard off again to look at the OPSU and the rubber boot has oil in it... but it is in the pathway of oil and sludge "coming from the rear VC," so not sure if there is a better way to diagnose.

The engine has been full with new oil for 4 days, would the OPSU leak "cold"?

Should point out, can't run the engine, VCs are off...

I don't want to bust open the expensive *** VC gasket set if it seems a like Super Grey and a better torquing job would suffice. $70 back is never a bad thing.

If more pics are needed let me know, I have several online for quick distribution.

 

It could leak without the engine running, yes.

Damn, $70? You can get a full overhaul gasket set for that much.

Are you sure the rear valve cover gasket is in good shape? A lot of times it'll be almost imperceptibly cracked.

Without spraying it all down and running it for a while, no real way to determine if the OPSU is leaking or not.

 

That's exactly what I was curious about, I inspected it best I knew how from my experience with small block chevies and their old school gaskets - "paper" gasket fails, it's extremely evident. I'll give them the fine tooth comb treatment in a little bit!!

Yea, $70 was the going rate pretty much everywhere - got the set at CarQuest (not best prices but the best people in this area IMO) - it has the sparkplug boots etc too but... yea. I'm guessing online was the way I should have gone? I just had a "quick fix" in mind. This has been a huge learning experience for me so I'm not too mad...

I started the whole project off with a couple cans of degreaser and 3 cans of brake cleaner, getting it all "eyeable"... NOTHING has leaked from the engine in the 4 days since I put the new oil in after I checked out the lower oil pan... so most likely, the OPSU is fine.

So I dont remember in all of the threads I read, but is there a favrite technique for reenforcing the VC Gasket with RTV?

Thanks tons for your help pmohr... I almost took up your "O RLY you searched?" flag earlier but you were manning the front.

Edit: Thanks also for the FSM link you provided in the past... it finally allowed me to identify the chain tensioner cover... could that be a leak source? (the Haynes manual is almost utter crap)

 

It may very well leak under pressure and not when the engine's off, FWIW. I'd keep an eye on it.

Yep, eBay gasket kits. OEM quality, nice cheap price.

You should only use RTV in the corners, where factory RTV should be evident.

 

I have a 1996 maxima. i tried to put on a cold air intake from roku creations.When I got the intake on, it would rev to 2400 rpms and cut off.I re-installed factory system and it is doing the same thing! Any ideas?

 

i'm going to do the power steering belt this weekend. I have a question on the procedure to how to get the belt tighten. I know that its the same procedure as the alternator belt,. adjust it till it doesn't make a noise. Screw the tensioner in by hand and make sure the belt is kind of tight. Tighten the the pulley bolt and start the car. If it makes a noise, loosen the pulley bolt, adjust the tensioner, and tighten the pulley bolt.

since there are two bolts i have to loosen before i can adjust the tensioner, which one am i suppose to tighten in order to adjust the tensioner the 12mm bolt by the puller, or the 14mm bolt in the back of the ps pump?? Or do i have to tighten both? i'm obviously going to tighten both back up once i get the tension right, but i don't want to keep on tightening and untightening the harder bolt of the two. I was reading but couldn't really figure out which one is harder since some people say you can get to the one on the back of the PS pump from the top. I just wanna know what bolt or bolts i have to tighten back up before i adjust the pulley (and if i read correctly, if i loosen the tensioner nut, i'm tightening up the PS belt).

 

believe that you damaged your maf sensor. Or you forgot to plug it in.. MAF = mass air flow sensor that connected to the stock airbox and is a square shape.

 

i have a p1447 code. could this be caused by my strut bar being in the way and cracking the sensor thingy?

 

Getting a CEL for the MAF? That's what's causing your issue.

To adjust the tension, you use the bolt on the bottom of the tensioner. See top center below:


To lock it in place, you use the bolt that's facing you from the tensioner assembly.

You can't get to the back of the PS pump from the top, it's impossible. You have to go from underneath or through the wheel well, which is easier.

FWIW that's not the correct way to tension a belt, doing it over and over until it doesn't squeal. There are tension specs, but mostly you just do it by feel. That way you only have to do it once.

Give the AC/Alt belt a feel, see how tight it is. Then try to make the PS belt about that tight, and you should be good the first time. It's a good way to do it until you develop a feel for the tightness of the belt, it'll come in time.

It's possible. P1447 can be caused by any number of things, really.

Code: P1447 | Description: EVAP Purge Flow Monitoring

 

^^^
thank you sir pmohr
i went outside and checked it out, and saw this:

the 2 things i pointed 2 are supposed to be connected, but the plastic piece is cracked.
what's that called?
and if i get it, is it easy to replace? keep in mind that i suck mechanically lol

also, could this be causing my p0400 EGR code?

 

It's the EVAP canister purge control valve. It's only a few bolts and some hose clamps, IIRC. Not hard at all.

I'd go for the classifieds first, before buying it elsewhere. Emissions components tend to be way too expensive anywhere but used.

 

thanks a lot.
i fixed my map sensor code thanks to your help 3-4 weeks ago.
after that code went away i got this retarded p1447 code

last thing .. could this p1447 code also be causing my p0400 egr code?

i also took off that ****ty megan strut bar

 

Unlikely.

 

Hello there Maxima. org.. I have 2 problems in my 97 Maxima..

1st problem is the car is a 5spd manual and the car does start when i clutch the peddle the problem is that the clutch peddle would not come bck up to its stable position.. It wont even get into gear at all.. I kno I dnt need a new clutch cause if the clutch was gone then when the peddle come up the car will cut off but why is the peddle not working anymore??..

2nd problem is that I converted my manual heat control unit to an auto GLE heating control unit.. but while trying to do so i seen the wires were completely different does anybody kno what i can do to finish the conversion??.. Please i need the help im like soo confused

PS. i also tired the search the formum and couldnt find any related problem.. but then again i am a nebbie probably dnt kno how to do it as of yet..

 

$97 from my local nissan dealer for the evap canister purge control valve
is that usually how much it goes for?
at first the parts guy thought i was talking about something in the back of the car, but i explained it and than he quoted me $97 for it.

 

Call up Dave B, he'll be the best Nissan price you'll find.

First, your sig pic is too big. 600x450? 550x325 is the limit.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-sig-pic.html
For your first problem, have you not checked the level in the clutch master cylinder reservoir? You probably have a leak at the flex hose to the slave.

For the second, how did you 'convert' it without changing the wiring? Just by bolting it in place?

You need to , it's been covered time and time again. Unless you get the whole harness or run the wires yourself, not to mention the handful of sensors that the ACC system needs, it's not going to work.

Since you can't search, here: http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=381989

 

Sorry about the over size signature i will shortly change the size of it but 1st the real issue of the matter.. I have checked the reservior and didnt see anything out of the ordinary really but like u said it can be a small leak somewhere so i check it again.. somebody had told me that it also can be the adjustable or something like dat never heard that 1 so i asked the org fpr some more info on it..

and yea i did just TRIED to bolt and plug in the auto heating control but then realized it wasnt an easy task so I wanted to kno exactly want is it that I needed to be done for the complete conversion.. but do u feel like its a waste of time to complete??.. seems like alot of work to be done.. im gonna shop around and see how much will it be to do it..

 

Yes, I believe it's a waste of time. You'll be spending a lot of money and doing a lot of work for a crappier system, IMO. Search, and you'll find exactly what needs to be switched over. That, or compare in the FSM.

 

I have been looking all over the internet for a pair of halo headlights.
Can anyone help?
I have a 95 maxima.