i have a 99 maxima and i believe my altinator just died but was wondering if a 96 nissan pathfinder altinator would fit??

 

not sure but i have a 99 alt for sale

 

I cant find that post. I tried the search. Is there a possibility that you could provide a link? Or perhaps a tree-location?

 

links right there

 

I have one more question. I'm browsing them right now. For the Weapon-R intake systems, are the Secret Weapon ones SRI? I don't see much hardware included with the package, whereas the Dragon I see a bit more hardware. What's the difference?

 

I'm pretty sure it would fit but it is a 90 amp amp altenator, compared to the 110 amp one that the Maxima has. I believe the pulleys are different also, but you could swap them.

 

yesterday i started up the max in the morning and it did not start. so i try to start it up later again in the day and it starts up fine. today the same thing happened. i just replaced the starter last month and the battery a couple of months ago. the weather is not to hot or cold so i dont see that being a cause. anyone know whats up?

 

more info needed

does it crank fine and just not fire?

does the starter spin but sounds weird,like real fast or slow?

just a click,no spin of starter?

turn key and nothing?

give as much detail as possible

 

it cranks fine it just wont start up completely also i just started the car up right now and it was fine so i dont know whats going on

 

The coolant temperature sensor can cause starting problems in cooler weather. But it usually has to be around freezing.

 

clean maf and TB per how tos. clean ground points.

 

have a few questions regarding problems with our 95 maxima tranny

first off someone already messaged me the link to the fsm but a lil hard to view from my phone which is pretty much my only computer lol so any help other than that link would be greatly appreciated

if driving hard with a heavy foot the car will start going in first and go up to 5 or 6k and hard shift directly to 3rd then no shift to 4th at all

if driving normal it goes in 1st,slightly shifts to 2nd but willl just slip and raise rpms to 5 or 6k which then 1st takes back over at this point or if you let off the accelerator it will shift up to 3rd and again no 4th gear

also the speedo has started really bouncing at cruising speeds and i belive its not just the head unit because if you try to use the cruise control it accelerates and decellerates the car with the speedo

if you are accelerating the speedo seems to be fine or, decelerating even, but trying to maintain speed or just slightly accelerating, the speedo is completely eratic

this symptom leads me to believe the problem with the tranny could also be the vss or the tps,could those cause these symptoms and if so what is the procedure to test them

i currently do not have a cel or o/d light that comes on in the dash even on start-up so i know i need to look and see if they are just burnt out or removed and replace these

also as a 95 not obdII compliant so can not scan with standard scan tool to recieve codes

any ideas would be great

 

Having problems starting 97 maxima. The car takes a long time to start up. Must try multiple times before it starters i have no idea what it could be ??

 

also 1 thing i forgot...there is a hose that comes up by the throttle body but is not connected to anything

the other end seems to go to a 90 on top of tranny

is this just a vent or should it be connected to vacuum or something somewhere

 

This is a vent line and is not supposed to be connected. Just about everybody wonders about this whe they first notice it.

As for your shifting problems, I'm not a transmission guy. Sorry.

 

thats what i figured it was but wanted to be sure...thank you for the reply

 

hey sorry dont mean to just hop on here but im new to the site and i had a question about my maxima. i just bought a 2003 maxima that was equipped with after market halo projectors. but the weird thing is that the wiring for the lights were for standard halogen bulbs. ifigured iut the right bulb sizes and what not but how can i switch the lighting to an hid system

 

Hello guys I have a question for you all. I recently bought a 96 GLE and right as I pulled into my driveway the CEL came on. The codes I got were P0440, P0446 and P0325( which i think is the knock sensor).

I read previous posts about this and took a look at the evap valve which had a stuck plunger and i ended up replacing it and resenting the CEL. It stayed off for about 100 miles but came on this morning and spit out the same codes. Is there any other things I can do to try to fix it? Where I live there are no emission requirements so ive thought about just leaving it on. Any suggestions?

 

does the car start at all? i had a problem getting my 97 to start when i got it, i may have some insight to the problems your having.. message me and ill see what i can do to help..

 

i know im not a newb on here but its kinda a newb question.
did 4th gens come with different alternators? the alt i had before worked like a charm and then just died one day. I went to a pick and pull and got another one for 40 bucks and now my headlights dim everytime i use the blinkers, turn on the radio, use my PW or pretty much anything electrical on the car..
its even gotten bad enough that if i have the key in the aux position listening to the radio (btw looking for another bose HU if anyone has one) if i turn on my headlights my radio will turn off..
im stumped and im not sure if its the alt or the battery being bad(like maybe a dead cell in battery). any info would be helpful.

 

Ok changed dash bulbs and ran self diagnostics

A/t seemed to check all 10 fine

Got 3 codes from check engine light
0304
0905
1106

engine runs great tranny has problems and speedo is all over the place

Please help and tell me what these codes could be

 

Looked in the sticky and did the ohm tests on the brown plug...all checked fine

Any ideas guys, new to the maxima and a/t problems in general

 

The standard altenator is rated at 110 amps. I think you got a bad altenator. If you have a volt meter, The voltage should read around 14.5 volts when the car is running. When the car is shut off, the voltage (battery) should be about 12.5 when the car is first turned off, dropping to about 12.1 after a couple of hours (battery dependent).

 

yeah i put my voltometer on it and it was at 12.6 when the car was off, and with it running it was at 13.8

 

I have a 95 Max that has a starting problem also! I have searched and read and tried almost everything!!! Most of the time you have to crank for very long time. It has always started for me, but it is getting VERY VERY bad! It sounds and feels like the spark occurs at the wrong time and it kicks back on the starter and it may backfire through the intake or the exhaust. I have replaced enginge (used). I had to replace the tranny when I purchased the car (last year). I have added ground strap from the starter bolt to the battery ground and from ECM grounds on top of intake to the battery. This did help a little, but still no fix!! I have replaced both crank sensors, cam sensor, coolant tempature sensor and the starter. I have cleaned the throttle body and checked the TPS voltage. On the MODIS scan tool it shows a cranking RPM of about 165 and it reads a start signal while cranking. All the tempatures and voltages appear to be correct. I have used an ohmn meter to verify the wire continuity from the sensors to the computer. I have used a lab scope to watch the signals to the computer from the cam sensor. When cranking I do not see any digital pulses, but when I finally do see a digital pulse, the engine will kick back and try to/will start. It does have a nondigital pulse on the wire when its not trying to start. The pulses are fine while the engine is running. You only see this problem when trying to start the engine. Runs perfectly after it starts. No codes, no missing....runs GREAT after it starts.
I don't know what else to try with this car!
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!

 

I don't like the 13.8 volt reading. Like I said, it should be closer to 14.5. I think the internal voltage regulator is having a problem. The battery had to have been fully charged to read 12.6, so I feel that the battery is OK.

There was a thread by another guy whose battery would run down overnight. His altenator was reading 13.8 or so and one time he metered it at 16.7. He replaced the altenator and his problems were gone.

 

were there any lower amperage alternators that would work for my 97? im thinking maybe i got a lower amp alt and its making the electrical system bog down maybe.. so i need to look for a 110 amp? anyone have any suggestions as to where i can find one for a decent price?

 

Hey guys, I wanted to post this in the Canadian Maximas forum but I still haven't hit 15 posts. Anyway, I wanted to know from any Canadians what features a Maxima ES (not SE) has in comparison to the GXE, SE, and GLE trims. This is in regards to the 1997-1999 Maximas (A32, post-facelift). I'm looking to finally one for myself but I still don't know what the heck the ES is. It seems to be Canadian only though, with virtually no info on that trim across the web. Help!

 

Have you tried replacing the fuel filter? While doing so also test the fuel pressure. You'll get a fuel pressure guage at harbor freight for $20. With key on/ engine off the pressure should read 43 PSI. With the engine running 34 PSI.

 

I am new to this sight, and I a looking for some help with my 1997 Maxima SE. I have owned the car for about 3 years now. I recently had to have the transmission rebuilt, and I just got the car back. My husband changed out the spark plugs last weekend and since then the car has been missing. When I drove it yesterday I noticed at low rpms the car seemed to be missing, but as I got over 2500 rpms it was doing better. When I floor the car it hesitates and the rpms will go all the way up to 6+ before it shifts down. Do I need to take the car back to the transmission guy, or is it something we did with changing the spark plugs? We put bosch platinum tipped in the car.

 

bosch platinum tipped are horrible. Replace with NGK copper or plats. never bosch...too many bad reports about those.


As far as the tranny goes...i rather go used and replace tranny than rebuild. Rebuilds are tricky and require skill that not every mech has so u have to find a guy that is GOOD at rebuilds.

THat being sd, i think your tranny is fine. Your drop resistor may be screwed up. SEARCH the org for drop resistor or cd be bad throttle position sensor. Both are related to your problem. Have a mech test them.

 

I know that the 96 Pathfinder alternator was a 90 amp unit. If you pulled an alternator out of a Maxima, it could have been either a 100 amp unit or a 110 amp unit. I found out since my other post that there are 2 alternators for the Maxima listed in the FSM. But if you go to a Nissan dealer, all they list is one alternator for the 97 model and I bet it is the 110 amp model as the 98 Maxima manual only lists a 110 amp model. From a physical size point of view, I'm pretty sure that any Nissan alternator from the 1997 era would fit on your car. The Pathfinder alternator would fit.

But as I said earlier, the voltage should be 14.5 volts when the car is running. 13.8 volts is out of spec, even for that Pathfinder alternator. I feel that that junkyard alternator you got is dying. One of the hardest things that a repairman (for any kind of a product) has to learn is that just because you replaced a bad part, it doesn't mean that you put in a good part.

Go back to the boneyard and get another alternator. If you want to buy a rebuilt, search around for the best price. A good deal where I live may not be a good deal where you live.

 

Ok so last night car stopped shifting all together...only 1st and reverse

Got it home and checked all externals I could get info on and noticed weird almost buzzing noise coming from tranny pan that goes away with wot(ignition on but not started)

All checked ok otherwise so took to aamco today for a diagnostic

I work for an auto parts store and have been dealing with these guys selling them their parts for 7 years so trust not to get screwed by them

They said its def internal just don't know what without tearing into it

So getting a used tranny from local wrecking yard and gonna put in myself

Any tips or suggestions from someone that has been thru pulling and installing an a/t in a 4thgen would be great...just want it to go as smooth and quick as possible

Thanks

 

Sorry to hear bout that man.

SEARCH the org. You will get lots more info from doing that than jus posting in here.

 

With reference to my this post: http://forums.maxima.org/8048607-post7192.html

I wasn't convinced if every parts needed to be replaced so I took to another mechanic. He pulled it up on jack took a look, test drove, etc. Then this was the response:

They are little bumpy but there is no leak, no noise and there is no uneven wears on tire. So everything looks fine. I can bring it back, if I see any leak or noise.

This has confused me whether I need to replace my 97's struts or not. I don't want to change them if it is not necessary.

So let me ask you guys:

1: How often one needs to replace the struts? My maxima has 170K miles.

2: Anybody who had their's replaced, what lead you to replace them i.e. leaks, noise,etc?

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
Samy

 

Its easy to tell.

Push down on each corner of the car. If the car rebounds more than once or twice...the struts are blown.

If the car suspension feels "loose" on turns or when going over a pothole...the struts are blown.

If there is excessive nose dive during braking...the struts are blown.

 

Two of the mechanics, to whom I took it earlier, checked it that way i.e. pushing down on front hood and trunk. One of them said it's ok and another told me it shouldn't jump this much and so needs to be replaced.

But I will try these tips myself and see how it feels.

Since I have been driving this for few years, I am not able to feel the real difference on what it should feel like. I will have to drive some other car with good supsension to feel the difference.

 

Struts should be replaced between 80 to 100K miles. The less smooth the roads, the sooner you will need to replace them. Do you know if they have ever been replaced? If so, when. Your car is at the point of needing it's second set of struts.

Struts will sometimes leak. My experience has been that the majority of the time they do not. I similiarly don't put a lot of faith in the push test. On my 97Max at 100K miles, I pushed down and the car came back up and stopped. I changed the struts and I couldn't push the car as far down as previous. But more importantly, I can go over speed bumps and dips in the road faster than I could before.

 

With reference to my this post: http://forums.maxima.org/8048607-post7192.html

97'Maxima - One of the recommendations along with struts was changing Sway Bar Link kit:

1: How will I know if my Sway Bar Link needs to be replaced?
2: Do I HAVE TO replace it along with struts? -- I believe the answer is NO.
3: Any recommendations on the brands? I found Mevotech(30$), Moog(35$), TRW(20$), ACDelco(30$), Beck Arnley(17$) or any others?

Edit:
Found this thread which answer my questions: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-how-pics.html

But if any one has any suggestions feel free to answer.

Thanks for your time.

Samy

 

Ok I've tried searching and find lots on manual trans but not a/t

Not looking for detailed instructions,i have a haynes manual for that if needed and can find my way around pretty much anything

Just looking for tips on problems I might encounter out maybe even short cuts which would only bee known by someone familiar with our cars,i mean this is an