Test the bank 1 O2 sensor (P0130), if it's incorrectly reading extremely lean, the ECU will dump fuel in which can cause your rich stalling issue.

Don't worry about the KS code for now.

 

ok i have a friend that has a turbo with these specs Turbo flange = T3 exhaust flange (dual entry)
Type of Bearing - Journey Bearing
Type of Wastegate - External Wastegate
Compressor:

• Inlet: 4 3/16" / Intake (ID/OD): 2"/2.5"
• A/R: .70
• Inducer / Exducer: 52.8mm / 75.5mm
• Trim: 49

Turbine:

• A/R: .84
• Inducer / Exducer: 57.8mm / 73.4mm
• Trim: 62

is it worth 250 bucks just for the turbo(turbo is still NIB with no brand name on it

 

Hi all,

Complete noob here. Im a new owner of a 5sp 96 max se. I've lurked these forums for some time now soaking up all the great information and knowledge the people here have. I've used the search feature countless times and have always found what i needed.

My car runs amazing ive done a few minor things including: fuel filter, radiator flush, syn oil and filter, air filter, ps fluid flush, new gear lube (MT-90), 02 sensors.

Im runnig into a few minor problems (if that). Im hearing a few strange noises coming from the engine bay lately. First is a vibration coming from what i believe to be the EVAP purge control valve (or volume control valve). It is the small black circular device located right above the TB, With 3 hoses coming from it. when idling It will let off a constant vibration sound or squeal sounds as if air is trying to squeeze through i tight opening causing the device to vibrate. The Vibration is strong you can feel it on the whole UIM, However it is only at idle or very low rpm (under 1000) often when coming down from a rev it will vibrate quickly as it comes from 1000 rpm or so down to idle, then stop. And occasionally it will do it constantly at idle as well.

Any input is appreciated, Ive looked at the repolacment part and all i see is the valve with the charcoal canister mounted right below it and from what i've read our canister is located remotely in the rear of the vehicle? If so do you think just the valve needs replacement/cleaning or is the canister in need of replacement as well?

Thanks again!

 

do it

 

I joined Maxima.Org today!!! and also replaced my IACV to try and fix a mysterious misfire I'm having once the engine warms up. Someone for the love of all that is Maxima please help me!! The car hits standard operating temp and starts to misfire terribly until it dies. I can step on the gas and it will misfire worse and eventually die. Then it won't start until it cools all the way back down again. I have a IACV code a O2 sensor code a Knock sensor code and a EGR code. Should I stick a fork in it or keep replacing parts associated with the codes??


95 Maxima GLE Sunset Custom Paint Job
Custom Interior
Ebay Touchscreen DVD
SE Wheels
99 Headlights Clear corners and bumper lenses
and Fog Lights
200k + miles

 

Does it run overly rich when it does run? Test the ECTS.

 

It does seem to run rich when it is running but there is no smoke to speak of coming out of the exhaust. How would I go about testing it? Unplug it while it is running to look for a difference? I plan on pulling and cleaning the egr and Maf sensor tmrw based on other responses to similar symptoms I've seen in the forums.

 

sounds like its running too rich to keep running once at op temp. but if you do decide to get rid of it.. lemme know im looking for another max lol..got any pics of that car?

 

and i may be completely off on this but IIRC once it runs rich to a certain point the 02 sensor will skits out and try to lean out the ecu(which would make it act like its running out of gas) or very very hesitant...
and a ECTS is the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor

 

Ok so to make sure im understanding you, a faulty ECTS would cause the car to run rich which would in turn cause the O2 sensor to spaz and lean the mix?? Or is the ECTS and Rich condition unrelated?

 

Here's a link to a couple of recent photos

http://www.flickr.com/photos/64991147@N07/5917061209/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/6499114...n/photostream/

 

to be perfectly honest i dont know if they are related but looking over some other threads on here it seems like the 2 correlate.
but yes the function of the o2 sensor is to balance a/f mixture to keep the car from running too lean or too rich.
if the o2 sensor reads too rich it will lean out the mix. try replacing the o2 sensor(youll need to eventually anyway) and see if that helps at all. Just to let you know im not a mechanic so take my advice in stride and listen to the overall consensus but i have had experience with cars most recently the 4th gen maxima.

 

send me a pm and we can talk about this some more in depth so that were not filling up this thread

 

The ECTS and rich condition are related, ECTS and O2 aren't.

If the ECTS is reading as a cold start, the ECU will stay in open loop and not care what the O2 sensors are saying. It will also cause it to run very rich.

 

If you unplug it, you would swing it off the scale on the high side, then it wouldn't start worth a damn in the cold.

Test it's resistance per the FSM, when it's right about 70 deg it should read 2.1-2.9 k-ohms.

 

the two rims with old tires were bent according to firestone, they swapped my 2 new tires with the 2 least bend and or not bent rims for the front, and 99.999999 % of my front end and steering wheel vibration is gone. still pulls to right a little but, after doing the LCA/ tie rod kits i got from FCP import and them an alignment; i should be rolling smooth. will let yall know, if not - i fully intend when im at 15 posts to make a thread on my experiences with this 4th gen subject being front end vibration!

Go ORG.

some of you guys could be my hero's - if i had any


edit: front struts and springs are wearing to point of no return
will be on market for used (wishfully thinking NEW)
adjustable coil-overs all the way around duh!!

 

well i was all excited about my recent purchase of a 99 max. was looking it over today and the lower rad support is almost rusted through. and i know here in MD it wont pass inspection that way. Can this be easily replaced? where can i get one besides the dealer?

 

Relatively easily replaced. Search, there are quite a few threads about it. There's even a semi-DIY, IIRC.

Get it from the dealer or expect to do the same job again in the near future (especially with as much salt as MD uses on the roads, I know Glen Burnie and Laurel were terrible about it).

 

theres also this option if you decide you dont want to DIY
http://us.ebid.net/for-sale/1995-96-...rom=googlebase
or
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2003734...=sbar&_lwgsi=y

i would suggest spraying it a truck bed covering in a light coat too to help with salt corrosion.

 

iv read through alot of the threads. its seems pretty easy. just the spot weld drilling seems tedious. as for welding. would it be ok not being welded? seems that the 3 bolts on each side would hold it just fine. has anyone had problems with it not being welded? cuz if it dosnt have to be welded i will be undertaking this task very soon

 

just curious but does anyone know what a manual upshift relay is for?

 

i found a whole radiator support on rockauto.com for 131.52 shipped brand new

 

In what context? There's nothing remotely close on this car.

Generally they're for a light on the cluster to indicate you should upshift, as you're at a high RPM with little load.

 

I had a little... accident.. the other day in my beloved Maxima. As of right now I have a bent rear subframe assembly.
I have it off and I'm looking for a new one.

I've been looking through Nissan's official part catalogs and it seems there are different versions for different years and even models.

Can anyone tell me if there is anythign actually different between the years for the rear subframe assembly. I don't really want to pay 450$ for a new one since I don't even know if the car will drive straight after replacing it.

Thanks in advance for any insight someone can give.

I'd also open a WTB thread for anyone in oOhio with one that I could buy but sadly I'm now (after this post) still 4 posts short XD

Thanks again.

 

is this the 300zx fuel filter that fits our 4th gens?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

if so is it a direct fit or does it need modifications?

 

They should all be the same. I'd say get one from a junkyard, but knowing Ohio (we buy auction cars from there all the time) it's likely to be rusted in place.

Yes, and direct fit. Really, it's just two hoses and a circular clamp to hold it in place. Most any fuel filter would work.

 

I have a 98 nissan maxima with a bose system in it. The audio stopped playing all together, power to the deck cd still playing no other lights out. checked the fuse it was the 15amp fuse for the bose deck. replaced it and worked for 30 seconds then blew. i have tried twice more and it has blown as soon as it has received power. Any ideas?

 

Recently done any work in the trunk, doors, or dash? Did you do anything immediately prior to this happening, or did it just start at random?

Unplug all of your speakers, see if the fuse still blows. If so, there's a short to ground somewhere in the wiring harness. If not, plug them back in one at a time until it blows, problem is localized to either that short section of wiring, or an internally shorted amp.

 

Yeah sorry I should've gave more details. I have an amp with 2 12" subs, using a line output convertor, as well as a remote bass control. which I installed almost two years ago. i heard some distortion in the subs so i pulled over to check and moved the box a bit to check. it was fine drove off and about 2 mins later the sound just shut off, not any power just the sound. I havent taken any of the internal bose speakers out, cause I wasnt sure if i had to. please help

 

If you touched your aftermarket audio equipment and then the speaker fuse started blowing...then check your wiring.

I don't deal with aftermarket audio crap so you're on your own there. The only thing that fuse powers is switched B+ to all of the speakers.

 

There are subtle differences between the years. Get the item the fits in the time frame for the date your car was manufactured

 

I have a 99 maxima with an ongoing problem with pinging (since I bought the car 2 years ago). It threw a p0403 code which led me to replace the egr valve and clean out the tubing from the exhaust and to the intake (tubing was completely blocked where it bolts to the intake and egr was "glued" closed with deposits). The valve stem seals are bad so it burns oil, especially at start up. It only audibly pings when the engine in heat soaked. It has also thrown a p0325, but I have not yet replaced the knock sensor. During an extended stint of pinging it also threw a misfire code once (I forget the code number). It only pings under moderate acceleration, not at WOT or light throttle (except only once under light acceleration), and only when heat soaked.

Should I start with the knock sensor and valve seals (since oil in the combustion chamber can increase compression ratio)? Any recommendation on cheap valve spring compressors that will work over head? I found one that will work, but it's over $100 (to replace $10 seals).

Could a plugged cat contribute to the problem? How about the MAF? Anything else? Thank you for any help.

 

I have a 99 max and I am looking into getting a set of tokico blues. The site has two variations of the shocks/struts - 1995 to 3/1999 and 4/1999 to 2001.

How do I find out if my car was built before or after March?

 

open the driver's door and you will see an aluminum plate on the pillar that has the hinges for the rear door. This plate will have the month & year of manufacture on it.

 

4/1999 is referring to 2000 models.

 

Interesting, Courtesy lists one as '95-'99.

 

OK new to this so sorry for any mess ups. I have a question on my 96' Maxima. Don't know much about cars so why I'm asking. I have to replace the CV joint or half shaft guess its called, but how do I know if my car has limeted slip differential or not. Went to buy the part and it was an option in the replacement part and I wasnt sure. Does my specific year have that and thanks for anyones time.

 

If you're in the US (you haven't filled out your profile information) then no, it doesn't.

Check the trans code on the firewall plate, ending in V is VLSD, ending in A is open diff.

 

i've researched and everywhere I've looked it says that my 98 max's horn wires are GREEN/WHITE and come from the steering harness. My problem though is I don't have any green/white wires coming from the harness...only the yellow/blue wire for the airbag and the brown, orange and white for the cruise controls. I'm installing an 05 altima wheel and the horns the last thing to do

 

Great! Thanks for the help.