Sorry, mode door, not blend door.

Can you get a look at the mode door motor while switching to/from defrost to see if it's moving fully and actuating the defrost door?

 

Lol Ill have to get back to you tomorrow, its dark, cold and snowing out here.

 

Does anyone know where I could purchase the Trenz Billet Grille (top and bottom) for a fourth generation max?

 

like I said in the other thread....I dont think they still make it.

Google searching it brought back 0 results under "shopping"

your best bet would be to find a used set, either in the classifieds or possibly ebay

 

ok yes this has been gone over time and time again but i need help! i just replaced my uim gasket and got it all togethet and.now its idling like crap but give.it gas and it revs.up with out missing a beat! driving it even seems.like.it had.more.power then before. heres what ive done cleaned MAF spark plugs and all electrical connectors. gapped all plugs cleaned egrv and iacv.

 

Have you checked for a vacuum leak?

 

use a new gasket when you put the IACV back on? Its a metal crush-style gasket that isnt a good idea to reuse. Your IACV takes over at idle so if your idle is bad, Id start there. Check all your vacuum lines, even though they are on doesn't mean they aren't ripped. Especially check the main hose coming off the IACV for rips. Even though you cleaned your MAF it could be bad as well.

 

i uzed a new gasket for uim and i also put all new hoses on thats why i took it off to redo valve clver gaskrt hoses and uim gasket.

 

If you're asking for help, it would be best if you actually answered our questions; they've been asked for a reason.

 

all new hoses on what though? Could be to big hose and the stock hose clamps just plain suck, need to get the screw in clamps. I meant did you use a new gasket for the IACV when you put it back on? If your idle is screwy then its likey leaking or one of your new hoses is leaking. Theres not that many causes for a rough idle contrary to popular belief.

 

sorry about that... no i did not use a new gaskrt when i put the iacv back on. all hose have screw clamps except.ones that those.wouldnt fit. i replaced all hose every last one of them vaccum and collant hoses

 

well your certainly smart replacing all the hoses you can, Im in the same process now and its funny to see rubber hoses hard as steel huh lol? Well I would start with a new IACV gasket and report back. I wouldn't advise it but you CAN use rtv on the old gasket and it will work fine as well but a gasket isnt exactly expensive so Id just get a new one.

 

Here's hoping 3rd try's the charm.

Vacuum leaks?

 

no vaccum leaks that i can hear or find.. but im not saying there isnt one the car has straight pipe exhaust and when it idles it sounds likebit has a mild cam in it if it helps diagnoses. yea all my hoses where hard as steel and.just feel apart. i guess ill go to auto store and get that gasket

 

It might fix your problem, report back and we will see where you are. Vacuum leaks are tricky to find especially when you have to have the engine on to diagnose it drowning out other noises. When your putting the gasket on just double check the lines connected to your intake. If the gasket doesnt fix it then you might have a bad MAF. Hearing you say its fine under load though leads me to believe its your IACV causing problems as always

 

replaced gasket and still the same. also check engine light is not on

 

You say you don't think there are any vacuum leaks, have you tried actually looking for any?

Can you view live data, or even just a vacuum gauge?

 

i dnt have acces to either..im just going by ear and feel

 

could it be the iacv itself or tps? but the engine light isnt on so how ciuld it be? maybe coils? but its fine under load idk im stumped

 

so your put a new cruch metal IACV gasket on and torqued down the bolts tight enough? If thats not it then it has to be a leak of some sort. The hoses are obv black and sometimes its really hard to find rips or tears but this simply has to be whats giving you fits especially because you have no CEL. All of the vacuum lines you should be interested in are right there near the throttle body and the IACV. Also, are you certain you torqued down the UIM correctly and don't have a leak there? If its idling like crap then you HAVE a leak somewhere

 

bolts torqued down correct and i even used a spray bottle for leaks

 

just got a FOB key off ebay, and my car is rejecting it ...
I've never used an FOB key on my car, i never had one for my car.
I went to the ni$$an dealer$hip to see what's wrong.
The key does put out signal.
They let me try a new key to as a test, with failure.
They then went to my car and tried to program the new key (from them) to my car, with failure.

They told me they had no clue what's wrong
Was actually kind of surprised i didn't have to pay $50 for just walking in the store, much less not charged an additional $75 for them testing and $100 for them opening a new key.

I've followed every step from here:
http://www.programyourremote.com/cla...Ad.asp?id=1047

Everything goes right, up until step 4. The hazards to not flash after i hit lock on the key. I've tried every button. I've also tried to finish up the process, even though they did not flash (just to see if it may have worked)

I have looked at all of my fuzes, all are fine. i was missing 1 fuze (the 7.5a anti theft under the hood to the right of the battery) but put a new one there. None of the fuzes were blown. i checked them all once more just to be sure adding that fuze did not change something to make one blown.

I took out my BCM and put back in to make sure no wires were loose. I also took apart my bcm to look for any fried solder on the motherboard.

There is one thing that may bother me about it, there are 4 copper sheets that stick out that look like... i guess rainbowish? i can post pics if needed.

background of issue is over

here is the question, what parts should i look at to make sure the look fine, plugged up, or even have?

the original owner could have possibly removed/unplugged a part i guess for "alarm issues" that the 4th gen seems to have (at least from my readings)

 

so you CAN successfully get the flashers to go on after inserting and removing the key 6 times, yes?

 

yes, my hazards flash twice after inserting/removing key 6 times.

[edit] but do not flash after i hit lock on the remote

 

ok so that means your BCM is entering programming mode. That's good.

After you do the 6 times in and out thing and get the hazards to flash, you have to take out and put in ONE MORE TIME, and turn the key one detent to ACC, then push lock on the FOB. Push and hold down for about half a second. Your lights will flash again at this point.

You do take key out one more time, yes?


edit - If you do, then my guess is you don't have tehe receiver module...


from my thread that helped me with my keyless issues:
Sooo.....do you have the receiver module for the vehicle? Open your trunk and look on the right side...peel back the carpeting and you should see a metal box. This is the receiver module, what interacts with the fob.

 

yes i do take the key out and put back in after the hazards flash.
I've tried every key in every turn of the key.
0 - no turned key
1 - first clock (ac, radio, etc)
2 - dash lights on
3 - car starts

ive done quick clicks, then small moment clicks, second clicks, then 5 seconds. nothing.

i removed my antenna motor, was it apart of this? the antenna was missing, so i got a cheap non motor antenna. and an extension to the antenna wire reaches my radio(not stock radio either, so didn't need adapter to fit old radio).

should i take a picture of where the motor was?

[edit] after looking at images on google/ebay for "1995 Nissan Maxima keyless entry" i don't think i remember taking that part off, or seeing when taking off the antenna motor. and looking in my car i do not see it, could i get a pic of it mounted in car so i know im looking right?

 

look at my thread I referenced, there's a pic of the receiver module mounted. You can't miss it if it's there....pull the carpet back on the right side, it's the metal box that is right there.



If the right side of your trunk interior looks like this ^^^^^ Then you do NOT have the receiver module. You need it in order for the remote to work. I recommend sending a PM to Maxima_Joe here on on the forums, I bought my receiver module and antenna off of him. Not sure if he has any at the moment but worth a shot, right?

 

Ok I have never seen an IACV go bad because it is so simple but you said you cleaned it, did you take it apart? It could also be a clogged EGR giving you fits as well. When your car is cold, go for a drive and get it up to about 30mph. put the brakes on fairly hard and see if your car stalls out. A lot of people with the same issue will complain about this and I had it as well. I still think its the IACV

 

alright, i thought that's where it'd be by the way the carpet had a bulge, but nothing was behind hit. the junk yard here sells BCM for $10, and distribution modules for $8. they dont have the keyless entry/reciever module posted, so maybe i can get away with walking out with it for $10.

Would be nice, found one on ebay for $22.99 + 7.50(S&H),

were you talking about that
Viper 211HV (412V)?

i may look into that one, if i can't get the one from the junk yard.


Its one that you walk in and take the parts off yourself, i could probably pass it off as a BCM if it comes down to it.


guess ill check the junkyard friday before work, hopefully i'll be able to use my remote within the hour of buying it =)

 

it's an OEM part...not a "viper" anything...

any module from any 4th gen *should* work for you...but I'd PM Maxima_Joe and see what he'll charge you for the receiver and antenna, which you will need as well.

IIRC it was like 40 bucks for BCM, antenna, and receiver module all together when I purchased from him

 

thank you for all your information.
just to confirm a few points
1) my car does inter program mode, so i do NOT need a compatible BCM, as mine already is
2) i DO need the antenna? the stock antenna for the car? would there be a way to use my aftermarket antenna? and we are talking about the radio antenna right ?

again, i greatly appreciate all the information you have given me. i had no idea that i screwed myself over removing the old antenna, i still do not remember seeing the receiver though when i took you the old antenna motor (was missing antenna).

Guess if i need stock antenna, i'm going to need the adapter wires to fit newer after market radios

 

1 - Correct. You do NOT need a BCM. You just need the interface for the remote (receiver module and antenna)
2 - This is NOT the same antenna that you use for your radio. It's a separate one specifically for the keyless entry system. Plugs into the receiver module. Again, this is NOT the radio antenna.

Have you read my thread on the keyless? There should be a small wiring harness connector above your right rear taillight...empty. This plugs into your receiver module as well as the keyless antenna.

 

whats going on fellas? ok so quick question, today as i was putting on my new wheels i ran into a situation where the lug nut would loosen and the as it was coming out it would tighten up again, so i tried to force it out and the pin/thread where the lug nut tightens on to broke off with the lug nut. so now i have 4 lug nuts holding my rim down? is there any way to like replace just the broken one?

 

probably not, sorry.

Sounds like it was cross-threaded. If I'm understanding you correctly, you say that you have part of the hub attached to the nut, broken off? That's all part of a single assembly, you need a new one.


^^ this, right?

Oreillys has it for under 70 bucks, I haven't checked rockauto but usually they're cheaper. I would probably do pairs...both front or rear, depending on which one is broken. DO NOT DRIVE long the way it is.

 

yup that's exactly what it is...and yea when i tried forcing the lug nut to rotate out and it tightened it broke the pin in half and its stuck inside the lug nut, the guy i bought the wheels off of gave me his locks so im not worried bout the lug nut i just need this fixed i dont really like it and i usually have my baby with me in the car...but yea thanks man that's exactly what it was

 

Wait, is it just the wheel stud that's broken, or did you somehow break a piece of the hub?

If just the wheel stud, they only cost ~$1 and are pretty easy to swap out.

 

Aloha from hawaii!! K first off I lost my keys (or someone stole it) and I need to go to work in the morning! Fackkkkk! Is there any way possible to start my car and drive it without my key? Cuz I heard something about a chip in the key?I got 13 Hours b4 I start work and need to make **** happen..looking for my keys is out of the question....its gone! And I'm broke so I can't afford to pay for another one at the moment. And I can't call out of work cuz ill probably get fired! Any help is much appreciated! Mahaaaaaalo!

 

Since you've neglected to mention what year your car is, we couldn't say if it's NATS equipped or not.

If not, you could turn the ignition switch manually to start the engine, but you'd have to drill out the security bolts on the lock cylinder and remove it to disable the steering column lock.

 

+1 you don't need to replace the whole hub assembly if you just snapped a stud. They should have them at any auto parts store for fairly cheap. Pound the old one out, pound the new one in, put wheel and lug nuts back on, drive car with grin knowing you didn't spend a lot of money.

 

^^^ Learn something new every day....I didn't know they were individually attached...nice