Starting problems can be a multitude of things. To check if your coils or injectors are working, you can check the resistance of certain pins. There should be something in the how-to's, under replacing the coils or injectors for what values/which pins to check, otherwise search. However, it may not be just the coils or injectors, if it's them at all. No start problems can be many things. Search is your best friend.

Good luck.

 

Anyone? I need to get her car back to her soon.

 

The best thing to do is to clean out the EGR guide tube at the back of the upper intake manifold. It is probably clogged and needs a good cleaning out. Get a couple cans of throttle body cleaner and get it cleaned out. Some have used seafoam and had success and some have seen worse symptoms. I personally do everything manually.

 

Can anyone tell me, step by step instructions on how to change the check engine light bulb on a 96 maxima? Pictures would be great. Or can anyone tell me where to find the answer? I don't know anything about cars but I'm willing to try whatever I have to so I won't have to pay $100 bucks.

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/boredmde...18/y2gPoGayVAI

Pmohr has a youtube channel with a bunch of useful stuff. Check it out.

 

Hey all! New owner as most of us are...got an automatic 96 with 215k on it as a daily driver. has some problems that i can fix, but one that leaves me wondering is the transmission. usually shifting from 1st to 2nd under some acceleration its really delayed. The actual shifting seems to be kinda funky too, laggy i guess. no engine codes related to tranny. Checked the tranny fluid the levels looked good and the color didnt throw any flags to me.


Anyone have any ideas?! Appreciated!

 

delayed shifing in AT is related to a few things: Drop resisitor, shift solenoid, Throttle positon sensor (TPS), and vehicle speed sensor (VSS).

THe troubleshooting procedure in the FSM always states to start with the TPS. U can check this with a multimeter. I think your drop resistor may be the culprit. U can order one from http://www.courtesyparts.com/. I think its located on the driverside strut tower facing the airbox.

If its a shift solenoid, that is in the tranny and it may be less expensive to jus replace tranny. good lucks

 

That is the power control module that sends power to coils.

EDIT:

I mispoke. It actually may be ECM. There is no pcm

 

Hey I was wondering if anyone here could help
I blew a fuse installing a new ignition switch for my 97 maxima When I went to tighten the top screw to connect the swtich to the ignition, it sparked and then bam no lights onthe dash no nothing except powerdoor locks on and int lights help what fuse do i check??

 

I Need your help Maxima.org, My car been stalling if i put into reverse, drive for couple mins it stall, got a code for camshaft position sensor, change it first time part from auto zone, drive 15 mins code came back on and stall, next i change Temperature sensor, still stall, then i went back to auto zone to get another cam sensor, STILL STALL, Tomorrow i'll picking up one from a deal Cam sensor, i hope it will work, please help me i dont know what to do at this point, out of work and broke and car is broking down on me!! grrg

 

I searched and searched but couldn't find my exact problem. My car 95 gle automatic sometimes idles fine but then sometimes will idle up to 1500 and rev up and down and when it does this i get a hard shift from first to second gear. I just bought the car and I hope I did'nt buy a p.o.s. I don't know much about cars sorry. It also has the timing chain rattle i did find that in my search. Pls help guys i really need to get this fixed. Sorry if I pissed anyone off just really need some help figuring out what this is. Oh I forgot to mention that my check engine light was probably disconnected cuz it doesnt even light up at start up so i dont know if their is an error or not.

 

its in the fuse box. I think the description say int. ill. Its a 7.5A fuse

 

If the bulb is out then u will need to get codes read at autozone.

Try cleaning TB, MAF, and IACV per how tos. see sig

 

Quick question. There is a ticking noise coming from my front, passenger side wheel area. It is present when I am driving and increases in frequency when I speed up and slows when I slow. I think (from what I've read here) that this may be a bad axle. However, I have no other reasoning, since there appears to be no damage to the boots at all. What's up?

Also, I have discovered that on my drivers side rear brake pads, that they are wearing oddly. The pads have worn on an angle. Holding them upright/vertically, on one pad the top is more worn and the bottom is much thicker. For the pad on the opposite side of the rotor, the top is thicker and the bottom is thinner. What could be the culprit?

 

The car stalled out on me today at start up. wouldnt turn over click or do anything then out the blue it started. Thanks for ur response. Do u think this is related to those parts u told me to clean?

 

If you rev up the engine does this noise occur (and does it occur at idle), or only when moving? If it's RPM dependent and not speed, I'd take my first guess at something contacting the crank pulley, belts, or one of the accessories, or just a timing chain noise.

If speed dependent, done any recent work in the area? If so, it could just be a bent dust shield contacting the rotor. If nothing looked out of place in the area, I'd run it in gear up in the air and try to pinpoint the noise, going so far as to remove the brakes from that wheel to see if the noise still occurred.

More than likely the guide pins are bound up in the caliper bracket. Do they move freely, or require some effort?

 

When it wouldn't even crank, would all of the lights come on in the cluster, as they should when the key is in the ON position? If so, it may be the ignition switch; next time it happens (if it does), try holding the key in the start position and jiggling it around. No crank could also be caused by the inhibitor switch, so you could also try holding the key in the start position and moving the shift lever down through every gear position.

 

all the lights came on i'll try it next time. what about the fact that it started then shut off then it didnt start. y would it stall out like that?

 

My car doesnt want to start and these are the codes that i pulled up p0325, p1335, p0173, and p0125

 

Honestly that could be a hundred different things, could even be the ignition switch if it's absolutely worn out, but it's not likely.

With such little information, I can only say the first thing you should check out is the CKPS REF, given the code. It's mounted to the upper oil pan, directly underneath the crank pulley.

 

ok i will get the ckps from the dealer tomorrow which code was that referring to? and what about the other codes

 

You're going to replace it without so much as checking it out first? That's an expensive way to diagnose your problem, but okay.

Other codes are KS, ECTS, and an emissions code, one bank is running lean. Nothing to worry about until it actually runs, though.

 

1335 i believe

 

hey guys..

i got a 96 AT off craigslist and it seemed to be running fine besides that when you switched it to reverse, and gave it a LITTLE bit of gas, there would be a knocking noise from the gears i think.. the guy said it was from all the torque and i stupidly believed him.. it was running great besides that.

after a few weeks i was driving and i think the tranny completely slipped because the rpm just went high and i wasn't going any faster. i thought it was shot so i just parked it. a month or so went by and i had to move my car and i started it just to see what would happen just for fun. and for some reason! it got into gears and reverse even kicked in and drove backwards(when it first happened reverse wouldn't even pop into gear).. i put it in drive and it took off like nothing happened. i drove it around the block and it was running ok from what seemed to happened.. i had to move it once more and the reverse again one even go into gear, but goes in all the rest of the gears.

so i was pretty much wondering if it has something else to do besides the transmission, i got that priced and 1700 is outta my budget.

and 1 more thing to add, when i first got it, it wouldn't lock into to gears correctly from the shifter. 1 would easily slip to 2. same for 2 into D. meaning i didn't have to push the button to change the gear it would just move up.

thanks for your time!!!!

 

Have you checked the trans fluid condition and level? Know if it's ever been serviced? Throwing any trans related codes, or is the OD OFF indicator flashing when you start it up?

More than likely it's the trans itself, even if it was a solenoid pack issue by driving it with it slipping that badly, it'll be time for a 'new' trans anyway. FWIW, they're readily available in most any junkyard for pretty cheap, and doesn't require much in the way of tools to replace.

And yes, it's normal for the shift lever to operate like that. You should be able to go from manual low all the way up to neutral without needing to use the button, same with reverse to neutral. However coming from/going into park, neutral into reverse, and going from drive down you need to use it.

 

i haven't checked the fluid, but i took it in to get it diagnosed and the guys said it's SHOT and there were few pieces in the oil pan.. and for getting serviced i have no idea i got this off craigslist.. As for the codes, i don't know how to bring them up, do you need a tool? and the OD light never came up unless i pressed the button.

i looked at a nearest pick-a-part a while ago and no luck! :[ and thats good to know about the shift lever, i just wanted to make sure that it wasn't messed up. my last car was stick and sadly this one isn't =[

would it cost more/be any harder to just buy a MT trans and put that in there?

 

[quote=pmohr;7642433]Honestly that could be a hundred different things, could even be the ignition switch if it's absolutely worn out, but it's not likely.


I figured out my ignition switch is going bad when I jiggle it worked. But I'm still having a problem with the car revving up sometimes and its been stalling out when I'm at a stop or about to take off. I just bought this car and got ripped off I feel like. I took it to try and get a diagnostics and they said they couldnt cause the check engine had been removed they said take it to the dealership(95).How can I tell what model my car is?Doesnt say on the title. I call the dealership to take it in and they wont touch a car over ten years old. So now my car is doing all this and I cant even get it diagnosed to find out where the problem is coming from. I'm so stuck and dont know what to do. This situation has me really stressed out.

 

i have two maximas,a auto and a 5speed i noticed that when i am driving the auto i can go 80mph and the rpm is at 2800-3000 but with the 5speed when i am going 80mph the rpm is at 4000 is this normal or do i need too fix something?i am feeling like the engine is not relaxed.the auto is a 1999 and the 5speed is a 1997 if that helps let me know guys,thanks

 

If the CEL isn't on, and the OD light isn't flashing, it's safe to say there are no stored trans codes.

It would be 'harder' than just replacing the auto, yes. There's a bunch more work involved, but it's a 99% bolt-in 'modification'/upgrade. Due to the added labor (assuming you aren't doing it all yourself) and parts, it would likely cost a significant amount more. IMO, not worth doing unless you're ready to drop a bunch of money into it, or you're doing it yourself.

The door sticker with the VIN will tell you production date, and the model year is also encoded in the VIN. Regardless of year, if it's an A32 then any standard OBD-II equipment can be used for diagnosis. Even better would be the CONSULT-II, but if your dealer really pushes away work just because of age, that's not really an option.

 

80 MPH @ 4k RPM seems to me like you're in 4th, and not 5th. Regardless, the 5MT will keep the engine revved up a bit higher than the auto on the highway, just the nature of the chosen gear ratios.

Using a quick online calculator, 4k RPM in 5th should be roughly at 97 MPH. ~3200 RPM sounds better for 80 MPH in 5th gear.

This is of course assuming that you're riding on something somewhat similar to stock size tires.

 

Thank you for your reply. The noise is only while moving and is speed dependent. I did recently inspect the brakes, etc (that's how I found the angular worn pads). I cannot recall however if the noise was there before or after. I will double check it.

As for the caliper guide pins, they moved ok. There wasn't much grease on them and they were pretty rusted so I re-greased them and put it back together. Will the pads begin to wear evenly now? or will they wear out prematurely because of the angled wear? If I do have to replace them early, is it best to do them in pairs or fours or just the one? The other pads have probably about half their life in them still.

Thanks a bunch.

 

well i am riding on g35 17`s,do u think thats the problem?

 

My audio system in my car isnt working at all, i went to best buy and walmart supercenter and they said they couldn't do anything about it since it was a bose system. any suggestions??

 

Replace the head unit. You will see a lot in the classifieds section. Probably will only cost you about $50 to get a used working one.

Then, take out the old one and put the new one in. That should make it work fine (I'm assuming that your speakers are fine).

 

Remove the bose HU assuming speakers are good

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-electronics-21/

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...nt-thread.html

 

I changed the CKPS and the ECTS and it started up fine

 

It seems pretty straight forward to me. You got problems when you touched something. You move it back and the problem stops. Just leave it how you found it and it should be fine. Your fuse cover isn't on upside down, is it?

 

just wanted to thank you guys for the help i was able to obtain from this site

i just finished changing the knock sensor in my '96 i30, and let me say i hope that i never have to do it again. tried using a wrench and contortionist skills but couldn't get enough leverage to break the bolt loose. ended up using a ratchet with 2 extensions and a joint at the end. thanks to the warnings posted, i made sure i had mechanics gloves so that i just have bruises and scrapes instead of stitches lol

on top of the extreme hesitation, the car would sputter at low rpms and had a good bit of power loss (felt like it was cut in half). the symptoms only appeared frequently when the engine was hot, barely ever when i would first start it up.

Edit: something was wrong the same time as the bad ks, do not know what it is yet. car runs way better though with the new ks!

 

Hi, I'm not new here but I hardly ever post. I just look for stuff and read up usually. I did search around threads and posts about my problem and couldn't find the direct answer... just bits and pieces that look like they may be my answer... anyways here's the story...

I was driving over to a buddy's house and my MAF was acting up like it had been the last couple days here (the CEL was on) and there (well I'm saying its my MAF because I had the same symptons before and swapped out with a used MAF but I guess it either A. got dirty again or B. was dying) so then on my way over the MAF starts acting up and I can't rev past 2800-2900 rpm and I'm just cruising as slow as possible (I'm in an automatic) just so I can at least make it to my friends house and park it there till I could fix it... So as I'm exiting the freeway and I slow down, the revs drop and my car stalls and shuts off. I try to turn it on again and the start is really rough and kept choking so i gave it a bit of gas to get the revs up and the car starts and then i hear a loud *POP* in the engine bay and white smoke/steam comes out from under the hood.. and I'm like oh god... but the car continues to run (my friend was another half mile) and made this weird grating type noise like when a diesel truck is at a stop, so I kept driving it and then more white smoke came out and I took a look at the temp gauge and the car was overheating like mad so I stopped at my friends place to park. On my way there at a stop light it started dropping revs again and i power braked it to keep the revs up or else the car was gonna stall again.

After I park it, I let it cool off for several hours and went out to check it. There was coolant all over the place when I lifted the hood, the reservoir was empty, and the radiator looked like it was probably empty. I checked the oil dipstick and it looked muddy and dark and it looked like it was the "chocolate milk" sign. I went on .org to check if it was the head gasket but I saw that there were other answers to the problem like the water pump (which hadn't been replaced in the last 100K miles or so I'm thinking since I got it as a hand-me-down), ects, t-stat, and things like that. (which I don't think have been replaced in a long time either) I tried to make it home in it which was like 6 miles.. and the car overheats once after about 3 miles on the freeway and I exit... then I hit a stop light, it stalls again, i re-start it and park somewhere to cool it off in which i waited an hour and half and then proceeded to make it home in one piece. I didn't notice any leaks because of where I park its already dark with oil, coolant, and water leaks but I checked today to see if there was and i didn't see anything. I'm sorry I'm kind of a noob about these things thats why I'm always on here to try to learn and do DIYs.

A lot of the basic symptoms point to the head gasket... what do you guys think? How can I make sure of this? Is it worth the fix? I just got a bunch of stuff in the car fixed in the last year like new radiator, rebuilt trans, new starter, tune-up, new tires, brakes, etc. I've probably spent well over what the car is worth and it looks like engine swap might be the best idea in this scenario... tell me what you guys think. please help!!

My car is a 97 Maxima with 272k miles and was running strong till this happened. If costs look like its gonna be too much, I might just sell it as is... my poor baby.

 

Congratulations! You solved your own problem!