Hey there, im currently owning a maxima 95s 30G, my idiot friend took my car and drove at 120kmh, smashed the front left wheel into the curb. ATM my car is fked bad, the left wheel is bent towards the engine and u cant put a spare tires. RIMs fked, tires fked. I towed to the garage, and i don't know how much its gonna cost to fix it up. Can anyone give me an approx of the replacements parts, etc.

 

When you would lose the pedal, would the clutch fluid also run low/empty? Have you changed out the clutch line running from the junction block to the slave, where they tend to leak? Personally I would (and did) get the stainless braided line running from master all the way to slave, and get rid of the factory abortion of a clutch line setup.

The factory upper bleeder is on the LF strut tower, just behind the airbox. The lower is at the slave. The only way to bleed at the master is to loosen up the fitting to the line, just as you'd bleed a brake master cylinder.

If you don't bleed it quite well using both bleeders, the pedal will never be quite right.

Check your fuses again. Specifically the 'TAIL L' fuse on the far left of the interior fuse box.



Without knowing exactly which parts are damaged, what the shop will charge you for them, what the shop will charge in labor hours and at what labor rate, it's impossible to say even roughly what it will cost. It could be a bent spindle, strut, LCA, tweaked frame, etc. It's also quite apparent that you're not from the US, and this tends to be a US-centric site, for the most part.

Have you asked the shop you had it towed to what it will cost? That seems like the first logical course of action...

 

Thanks, and no fluid was not low.

Edited to add:
Nope did not change the line.

 

**I need your perfessional opinion** i have a completely stock 95 se 5 speed (190 hp) My friend has a a 1984 camaro, with a 305 4 barrel with an autotragic tranny (150 hp). since he has gotten his car, he is convinced his car can beat mine.
I know that my car is 4200lbs and his car is 3500lbs (he has every accessory available), but the 305 4 barrel is a slug.

 

You will beat him, assuming its still a 150 hp motor.

 

New Question: Stumped
Sitting at a stop light suddenly power steering started screeching. Fluid at low mark, topped off, noise still continued.
Auto-stethoscope used to pinpoint noise around pump body/pulley.
For testing pulled alternator belt.
Noise still there
Replaced with new power steering pump and serpentine belts.
Exact same noise continues......
Replaced Autozone pump with a pump purchased from salvage yard.
Exact same noise continues......
Tried 2 separate pulleys; ran salvage pump with no lines attached.
Exact same noise continues......
Put Autozone pump back on, took to Nissan dealership for diagnosis.
Service dept. pulled harmonic balancer and determined no problem (incorrectly?)
Service dept. concluded it was the power steering pump
Replaced with second new pump from Autozone
Exact noise continues - no change in pitch etc..
Quick test, no belts no noise...
Replaced high pressure valve.
Exact same noise continues.....
What next? Any ideas help appreciated
Video/audio of maxima problem in link below

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_D7dERsoEpI

 

New to forum and couldn't find an answer to my question - hopefully posting in right spot:

• Does anyone have step by step instructions w/ diagrams/pix on how to install an MAF sensor on an 97 Nissan Maxima?

Look forward to your reply and thanks in advance.

 

It's pretty self explanatory. Undo a plug and some bolts/screws and it's out. Nothing to it. Just jump in, it'll make sense.

 

your car doesn't weigh anywhere close to 4200lbs unless you have dead bodies in the trunk.

 

Where is the MAF sensor located and how do I find it? I'm brand new to this stuff so I'm sure my question seems elementary to you but any info you can provide is greatly appreciated (pix/diagrams would be helpful). Any tools besides a screwdriver needed?

My plan is to take the old MAF from my 95 Maxima and install it in my 97 Maxima and hopefully this will fix the random stalling problem I'm having.

 

My 99 Max has a bad jerking/bucking problem. I have tried to diagnose it myself, but I am at a loss as to what's causing it. It is more pronounced after the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). It happens the worst in 1st gear, 2nd isn't too bad, 3rd usually doesn't happen, 4th & 5th doesn't happen. It usually happens from 900 to 2500 RPM. It bucks really hard unless I floor it to get rid of it. The problem goes away after the car reaches it's normal operating temp. No CEL's at all. None stored in the ECU either. Also, I have a slight decrease in gas mileage.

As far as trying to diagnose this problem, after reading the forums, I went to the coil packs first, since those are prone to fail in the 99's. I swapped all 6 of my coils with my gf's Max, but still had the same problem. I changed the knock sensor, checked the MAF with a VM, all injectors with a VM, both were within normal specs. I checked the spark plugs, which looked fine.

My car might have a short in the wiring. My dash cluster goes haywire sometimes (gauges flicker and read incorectly, but only once and a while). But I don't know if this could be related to my problem. I'm leaning towards the problem being either a clogged injector or some kind of wiring problem. Any useful help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Maybe this will help you.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...10-w-pics.html



Don't be afraid to use the free search function. It works pretty well.

You'll need a flathead screwdriver and a 10mm ratchet.

 

Then how much does a maxima weigh? it says on the door that it does weighs 4200 lbs

 

Ok, took your advise and bleed from the bleeder at the fender and at the slave. I got more air out and the pedal is good. I will drive for a bit and the pedal will not come up all the way and it will have trouble going into gears again. My question: Is it just air in the line still working itself out? Or is there anyway air can get into the line (if the line is say cracked will air get in or just fluid leak out?)

Thanks for all the help!!!!

 

No, it says the GVWR is 4200 lbs.

 

Check closely where the upper line meets the junction block, before it goes to the slave. That area is where they tend to leak.

If it's leaking, air will be introduced into the system, but you should also have a noticeable brake fluid stain in the area.

Also, what brand master did you get? I've had more than my fair share of DOA auto parts store clutch hydraulics; I prefer to stick to OEM now.

 

I am going to buy a flange repair kit for my my stock muffler and not sure what size to get.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...7CGRP2023A____

They come in
2 inch
2 1/4
2 1/2

 

figured it out with a little searching. 2 1/4

 

LUK for clutch, bearing, pressure plate, master & slave cylinder. Internal trans bearings are factory.

Now stupid question, junction block? you mean right where the line screws into the slave?

 

Hi Guys. My name is Mike and I am new to this site. I became a member cuz I just bot a 2010 Maxima Sport. Love the car and want to do some performance upgrades.

What to get some of your thoughts on what type of Air Intake to get? Do the short ones work well? Does the Y Pipe help and where can I find one. Or any other performance modifications anyone can recommend.

Thank you and nice to meet you all.

 

Welcome, you are in the wrong section. This section is for 4th gens(95-99). You want to post in the 7th gen section(2009 and up maxima's)

Click me-->http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generation-maxima-2009-78/

 

I have this exact same problem in my 5th gen, but it is very infrequent. I haven't done any diagnostics yet either, having just purchased the car and not having any money left over.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

alright so it turns out i need to replace my whole exhaust system from the y-pipe back. so i was searching around for some kits that include everything and came across this warpspeed package for $589. im pretty sure it includes everything i need (ypipe, cat, cat back, muffler, etc). i was wondering if anybody has this or has heard anything about it. or if there's any other better options let me know. heres the link http://www.warpspeedperformance.com/nissan.htm
(im looking at the complete system at the top)

 

i have an electrical question, i have a 95 se, the only power window that works is the driver one. but if i diconnect the control panel from the driver side and connect it to the passenger i can then roll down the passenger window, has anyone exprianced this before or know where my problem is. i've tried replacing the driver control panel but that didnt help

 

Does anyone know if there is a web site to look up labor times?? I called my dealer to r+r the right lower ball joint and they are quoting 2.5hrs. For taking the tire off, removing axle, taking one bolt off and pressing it out; it seems a little excessive?

 

Do both your front windows roll down when you hold down the unlock button on the keyfob?

I would imagine it's a data bus issue. Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to this issue? Have any problems with your dome light, ignition switch light, door lights, etc?

Personally the first thing I'd do is swap out the BCM with a spare.

 

Posting in newbie thread for new Maxima Sister just bought a '96.

It's throwing a CEL. I checked codes and got knock sensor and vacuum cut valve bypass valve. I'll replace the KS; though I could just advise her to keep buying premium, I know she'll forget 'cause she's kind of spacey.

But the VCVBV. It's rusted right through, totally broken. Can I just ignore that? Apparently Illinois doesn't emissions test '96s (OBD1), so it shouldn't matter, right? According to the FSM the VCVBV is present for emissions/OBD purposes and usually remains shut. Failure mode for the valve is that it stays shut - ie normal operation for all but OBD purposes.

I guess I'll go to the junkyard, but if it's an expensive part can I just let it be? Can I just plug the hoses leading to it?

Also, thoughts on junkyard knock sensors? That **** is hella pricey from the dealership and I need to have this all fixed by Sunday.

 

ALL 4th gens are OBD-II. Furthermore, the '96 model year is when all vehicles were mandated to be OBD-II compliant. If your state emissions tests OBD-II vehicles, then yours will be tested.

But if you don't care about the CEL or emissions components, then no, it doesn't matter.

 

O rly? 'Cause when he saw the fuse door open, the dude at Autozone said (after I got there, natch) that mine was OBD-I, so that he couldn't read the codes. I was kinda surprised because it's a '96. Maybe it's a '95, hell if I can tell the difference. But you say all 4th-gens are OBD-II.

Also, I thought ColombianMax mentioned that his '96 isn't tested for that reason. (EDIT: nope it's a '95...i guess i should check what my sister has) Or perhaps it isn't OBD-II vs OBD-I, and I'm just getting my terms confused, but he deffo said his isn't tested.

 

What he saw was the CONSULT connector, not an 'OBD-I' port. Even on the '95, they'll tell you they can't read the codes because not many vehicles were OBD-II compliant before '96. It's far easier to say they can't than to keep a list of every vehicle that may or may not be OBD-II compliant.

 

Yep...just compared her '96 fusebox to my '97 and they're totally the same. Good old Autozone employees.

Well, I should have just done the screwdriver method to begin with. Any thoughts on junkyard knock sensors? I'm totes magotes going to memorize your videos on that btw..

 

hey guys, im relatively new on here. ive done some searching but im still not sure what to do with my situation. i have a 98 SE. ive put a little bit of work into it and i want to keep the car and build it up. but in the last month ive had a misfire on cylinder 3. I got a compression test done and it said the cylinder was at 70 psi. My mechanic told me that i would either hve to get the engine rebuilt or replaced. is this true or is there something i cando to rectify this problem. the cel is on and had recently started blinking but not when the car is under load. what to do?????

 

First, your sig pic is way too big at 600x450. 550x325 is the limit, overall.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-sig-pic.html

Now, low compression in that cylinder can only be caused by a few things; physical engine/head damage, BHG, bad rings, bad valves/seats. One or two other rarities as well. Basically, everything possible problem would require a teardown to fix.

Did he do a leakdown as well, to find out where it's leaking from?

 

I would not bother replacing it. Knock sensor will not cause a CEL

 

I know, but my sister is going to forget to put premium some time. For sure she will. The broken KS retards timing to the point where it doesn't matter what you use, right? I might go for a $30 eBay KS if the JY ones don't work out, and just install it when I'm back in November. I have to head to the jy to get a stereo and the vcvbv anyway.

 

not true. i've been to MANY places to try and get the codes read and every one of them has tried and my 95 is NOT obd-II compliant. i've resorted to just paying $100 for an electronic test at my usual mechanic or just using the ECU to pull 'em if I'm broke.

 

Which connector are they using? The CONSULT connector in the fusebox, or the OBD-II DLC in the passenger footwell?

What's your production date?

Again, ALL A32s are OBD-II compliant, there's confirmation of even the earliest (mid '94 models). More than likely, they're all trying the CONSULT connector.

 

I'm guessing that since these 4th gens have the most posts, that means they are the most popular? Or is it that there are more of them out there? I like the body of the 5th gens but not the prices people are asking. I like the look of both really so either will do. I've been told to get a 5.5, but is it really worth the $1000's more (in my area at least) for 30 horses and a different look? Is it that much more of a car or is it preference like I'm thinking?

Thanks,
Z

 

no i can only control the driverside unless i connect the switch to the passenger then i can only control that window, the only thing done to the car was that a sony head unit was installed with pioneer speakers

 

Well it has been burning oil. Nothing that smokes out the tailpipe but i do check it frequently and i do have t o put oil in it. No he didnt do a leakdown test, all he did was the compression test.
My question at this point is would it just be more feasible to just get a whole new motor?