I figured I shouldn't make a new thread for this question so here it goes. I got code P0374 (transmission not correctly engaging 4th gear). I'm not super mechanically inclined, the hardest job ive done is replace my struts. I have 154000 miles on the car, the question is.. what is the most cost efficient thing to do as someone who can probably replace a solenoid but not take out a tranny? and I did do some searching and came up with some troubleshooting steps. But what would YOU do?

 

Can you tell your tranny is acting up when you drive? Its not expensive to have someone bolt up a new tranny for you. They are out there. The tranny in our cars just plain suck. I would turn the OD off so you dont use so much 4th gear and drive it until it falls out lol and in the mean time seek out a replacement and a shop to do it for you for cheap. Bargain with them bc shops are hurting in this economy too and they will try to rip you off. Find the threads on here that deal with replacing and arm yourself with how to do it so you can properly haggle with them.

 

Sometimes if i accelerate slow it will shift weirdly into fourth. At 35 mph it won't be a rough shift at all but it will seem like the rpm's drop quickly. and i have places to work on cars with ~4 people willing to help with anything. just none of us have done the work in the past

 

I have 7 engine codes. I want to start with the cheapest thing first. One is the MAP sensor. It's plugged but there isn't a vacuum hose connected. Can anyone post a pic or describe to me where the hose is or supposed to be. Thanks

 

Here is a picture of The MAP/BARO Switch solenoid valve. It has 3 vacuum hoses on it. There are 2 hoses on the top and one on the bottom. The top most hose is maybe 2 inches long and curves towards the engine and connects to a metal tube. The next hose down curves away from the engine, makes a U-turn and goes to the Absolute Pressure Sensor that is on the air intake snorkle near the radiator cap. I think this is the one you are asking about.

 

Thanks. That's exactly what I'm looking for. As soon as I get some daylight I will take a look. Just hope that the sensor isn't bad. The mechanic that replaced the motor had the windshield pissers connected to the sensor. Just hope he didn't try them. Thanks again dude

 

I also heard that the tranny in this car is crap. If this is true what other trans will fit. Like from what other car(s)

 

need a little bit of help i have 95 max it misses sometimes at idle just a tad and sometimes it doesnt you give it gas its fine ive done plugs valve cover gaskets intake manifold gaskets both iacv gasket gimme answer plz

 

Looking for some help from someone who may just browse this thread and may not have seen the thread I started. Thanks ahead of time.

Cooling System Problem

 

What's wrong with the cooling system?

 

Hey, I have a 97 Maxima. My car cranks 4-6 seconds before starting. This only happens when my car is cold, when its warmed up it starts right up.

I didn't think much of it at first, but one day I tried to start my car and it wouldn't even crank, I made sure that it was in Park and I saw that all the lights would turn on. It took me 7 tries until it finally started to crank and started. This has already happened twice, and I'm worried that the problem will only continue to get worse.

I have also went to Autozone to check my starting and charging systems and my battery, starter, and alternator are all good. I also scanned for trouble codes to see if it was my CKPS, I got more than a handful of codes but no CKPS code.

Does anybody know what could be causing this?
- Thanks in advanced

 

When an engine is cold, the oil is thicker and requires the starter to work harder. A warm engine with heated, thin oil is much easier to start.

When the car did not crank, did you hear a loud click sound of nothing. I am leaning towards the starter being the problem.

On my 97 I came to notice that the car was cranking a little slower than normal. I switched batteries with my other car and that did not make any difference. Eventually the car would did not start, did not crank. So I swapped in the starter from my other car and went to auto zone for a starter. They insisted on checking the starter and it was making an extremely loud, grinding type noise. But I was told the starter was OK. Being an idiot, I believed them and took it back and installed it in my other car. Car #2 did not crank. I opened the starter up and upon looking at the planetary gearset in the starter, I saw why the thing didn't work.

I went to another parts store, got a starter and have been starting up just fine.

 

I installed Monroe QuickStruc for my 99 Maxima. The ride was really stiff initially after replacement, and lots of body roll when going over bumps. After a few days of driving, the shock has loosened up a bit and it now rides much better. Highway ride is smooth and local ride is much more dampened than it was initially.

So it seems shocks do need a bit of break-in, at least the Monroe ones. Perhaps they need a few full length travels to squeeze out the bubble/air if it’s been laying horizontally on the shelf for a long time? I replaced it myself and ordered from Amazon which had the most competitive price.

Just a note in case anyone’s interested or run into the same issues. This is my first shock replacement ever so I was expecting OEM ride quality immediately after and got slightly confused by the initial result

 

i got aquestion on any 7th gen ownerwith experience... has anyone tried to run nitrous on it..is it safe since car is basicly always above 6000 rpm the whole way down the track.....trying to bring it down to low 13s possibly brake into the 12s ....

 

that's good to know, the "break in" period

I don't think the 4th gen forum will help you. Go to the 7th gen one and ask there.

 

hey guys i just wanted some advice from you guys since im in the market for a car and always had a passion for maximas. Im stuck between getting a 4th or a 5th gen. which would you recommend and why? Also i do plan on tuning it later this summer.

 

Umm , Click the link I provided in my original post and that should answer your question

 

Here you go, a thread has been started on this already...should answer some of your questions.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...en-please.html

 

Read it. It seems to me that u are fairly satisfied with what it's doing.

About the heater not getting super, it's not because it's old. My 96, in 50 degree weather, and lower, I have to kick it down from 85 to about 76. You will cook in my car .

Check this when u can.
When engine is cold (ex. In the morning) and u start it up, do the rad fans kick on instantly?

Now about the A/C.
Does the compressor kick on and stay on or is it on and then off soon after? My A/C goes down to 65 and I can't keep it there long or u won't be able to move. I keep it between 70 and 74 and it's comfortable but still a little chilly.

My car does not overheat by touch but if you were to drive it you would probably pull over for safety as my temp gauge "normal" is right under the line below the "H" line.

Let me know something.

 

See red in your quote for response.

 

Where I live 60 is getting cold. I don't understand ur car.ine will burn ur legs on the "floor" setting and dehydrate ur eyes on the "face"

Reason I asked about the fans was because it sounded like the temp sensor was turning the fans on on start up.

Just to be absolutely clear here, what is ur goal on the whole cooling system concern

 

Well right now, my main concern is to get the ac fixed since I no longer need the heat. As per my thread, I am just trying to make sure there is nothing major wrong with my car or where to start looking as to why my heat is not as hot as, say, yours is but so far no one has been able to help. So, I am just gonna call it good since it does not overheat and is not causing me problems. It gets warm enough for me in the winter and I am the only one riding in it so its good enough. I'll get the ac fixed and call it done unless it starts to overheat. Thanks for trying to help but I am actually getting kind of frustrated with it cause its hard to describe it over the internet.

 

I think your A/C system is fine. Stop worrying so much lol!

 

I'm thinking you are right. Even if its not perfect, it doesn't overheat so screw it. LOL. Thanks for your help in my thread too.

 

This may be a noob question but maybe not, will a 3.5 intake manifold work on a 4th gen? I always hear about the 00iv swap but not an 02-03, just curious

 

Hey guys! I've been considering to buy a 4th gen and was wondering how much would you pay for one that's in a decent condition with below a 150k miles. And while checking out the car (besides the basic stuff), what else would you advise to check on the 4th gens? such as certain recalled parts etc. Thanks in advance!

 

Can't really say as I bought my 96 for $600. It ran good when I test drove it, but when I payed for it and drove it home it had to be towed. The water pump went out. When I fixed it I was only able to drive it for 2 weeks and had to replace the motor as the head gaskets were bad. I
Would burn all the water in about 20 miles. My question is what is visible wrong with it (cosmetic and fluids) and what are they asking for it?

 

Wow that's horrible! I don't wanna end up with a car like that for sure.
About two months back I was looking for a 5.5 gen for my bro, and I've test drove plenty of them and all of the owners/dealers were hiding something or there was clearly something wrong with the car, yet they were charging $6,000+ and this was in NYC, where used car prices are always low. Idk if the prices have gone up or what but I remember about 10 years ago, one of my bro. bought a 94 max for just 2 grand in mint condition! And here today, I can't even find a decent 4th gen for under $2800 lol.

 

i paid 2700 for my 99 with 141k

bald tires and torn CV boots...worth every penny

Patience is a virtue...do as much research as you can, so you know IMMEDIATELY when you look at a car what it will need. Know what you want. And be ready wiht cash in hand when you see it.

 

When did you buy the car?

Yeah that's what I'm doing atm, just keeping my eye on craigslist for now. And hopefully catch a good deal pretty soon.

 

Oh don't get me wrong. Yea I put a new motor but it only cost $1800 for everything so I really payed about $2500 for the car. I feel like I stole it. It's amazing other then buying it then going straight in the shop

 

I bought it 2 months ago.

 

sence i didnt want to start a new thread for just one question, cause it would be pointless. can i run the 4th gen fuel rails and injectors on the 00vi lim and uim, and i shouldnt need a tune unless i go to the 5th gen rails and injectors right?

 

If you use the 5th gen lower you need to use its rails. you can use the 4th gen lower and retain your 4th gen rails. just flip it 180 degrees and bolt it up. Thats what I did. NO tune necessary...just get a JWT ECU so that you can extend the rev limiter.

http://tatanko.boredmder.com/
- go to "00vi Swap info" then "setup comparisons" - all the different configurations are there.

I personally used the 7th variation of the 00vi configuration.

 

the problem with that is i saw that it doesnt quite line up perfectly, which would bug the hell out of me...maby if i get the jwt ecu and used the 5th gen rails and what not..they should have it be tuned if i called them about it...or doest the 1/8 inch not really matter..and i saw the 00vi swap stuff ive been searching forever but didnt get a definitve answer about the 5th gen lim with the 4th gen rails...

edit: didnt see tatankos site...is this new or something

 

hi, i to relace drvr. side airbag. i have the iarbag, just looking for advice, do's and don't's on replacing it. can anyone help me out?

 

Check my how-to videos, I just did one on replacing the steering wheel.

 

I'm look for some opinion on fuel regulator,I'm planning on changing a bad fuel pump and filter with walbro 255 soon and was wondering if I should or need to upgrade my regulator as well? My 2001 20th anniversary is stock only Berk Intake.if you guys recommend it what's a good regulator out there also alot upgrade coming soon but not soon enough also I'm looking for some good brand lowering springs about 2" or 1.5" drop not too low since I can't afford coilovers right now thanks any help or advice is appreciate

 

No he has had that for years. Check the all motor secrion There is a sticky dedicated to 00vi swaps. I didn't like it lining up perfect either. I had anotherembwr here fill in the holes and re drill and tap them (I think it was Stevenmax or something like that). You could do it yourself....he filled them with jb weld and then tapped it.

 

Questions for the experts again. I am in the process of bringing my Maxima up to spec with Virginia inspection code. I currently do not pass. The shop today gave me this list of things wrong:

Lower control arm bushings
Right inner tie rod
Left steering rack moving
Left bellow boot busted
Valve covers leaking
VVT sensor leaking

I want to try this myself, I'm fairly capable and willing to learn. I'm building a parts list and links to How To articles to prepare. FCPimport.com is who I'm buying through since they are a forum supporter. In my list so far I have the gaskets needed for the valve covers and others. I also have the bellow boot in my shopping cart.

The ones I had questions about were the right inner tie rod, the left steering rack moving and the VVT sensor leaking (passenger side of engine). What are the culprits for these problems and what parts should I order? Yeah I know without seeing the problems yourself, it'll be difficult but I am just getting a general idea. Thanks for your help!