yes it was just the stud that broke off..i believe it was cross threaded and as i forced it out it broke in half and now i only have 4 studs holding my rim...but yea thanks a lot guys i didnt know you could just replace them

 

i learn something new everyday on this website lol

 

Yeah sorry bout that....its a 98 gle..I also have the stock keyless entry...can it be done without drilling?....if not please tell me the steps

 

The only way to avoid drilling it is to call your dealer with your VIN and get an additinoal key cut based off that information. Did that with my Pontiac when I wanted to sell it (non-transponder key, just VIN-specific) and it only cost 20 bucks. You can probably do the same, since your 98 doesn't have the NATS (immobilizer).

 

Without drilling, no. You can easily start the engine with nothing more than a screwdriver, but it won't be that easy to defeat the steering lock.

 

Problem solved thanks guys alooooot!!......how about installing ebay coilover sleeves? What do I do to make em fit?

 

Mind telling us how you fixed your problem? Others may have the same issue at some point and it would be nice to know what worked for others. Thanks.

 

Well I am going to check out a 97 Maxima in Columbus next weekend, coming over from Dodge to Nissan. I have priced everything as far as parts are concerned. My only question is about the NWP spacers, I see they are on back order constantly, is there anywhere else I can get them besides the website?

 

Hey all, I was installing a grounding kit on my 96 I30 and when I was trying to remove the ground bolt next to the driver side headlight, the bolt broke off. I was trying to get the old bolt but it was stuck there real tight and it was getting dark and cold. I also needed my car for tomorrow.

As you can see in the picture below, I have bolted the ground wire on the bracket that holds the headlight. So far everything seems fine. Is this OK for the time being until I can fix the old ground point?

 

It may be OK permanently IF the bracket you have it attached to is welded to the rest of the car AND you put an internal tooth lock washer (also known as a star washer) between the bracket and the wire connector. It is also highly advisable to have a regular, split ring lock washer under the nut to insure that the connection does not come loose.

 

Hello, I have searched and read alot of post's about programming my factory remote for my 99 maxima SE.

My very first try, I locked the doors, inserted key in and out, and got hazard lights.

I then flipped the key over to ACC, pressed the lock button on my remote, and got the flash again.

I proceeded to take key out, unlock door, open door.....And then test.

Result: Nothing. Checked fuse 40..Looks good.

Now, I can no longer get the hazards to flash after inserting key in and out (x8). But, I can still flip the key over to ACC and press the remote, and the hazards flash. I feel like the car is stuck in program mode half way through or something along those lines...

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Go here http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ess-entry.html, read thru the whole thread, but he had a similar problem, although he was missing a part. It should help you though. Shoot him a PM if you have any question and he may be able to help. Also, here is another link to make sure you are attempting to program correctly (post #3) http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/199...ogramming.html

 

So... I looked into my Trunk, I do have the keyless entry box.

One thing i found strangely odd....On the box itself, The FCC # does not match the remote i have. (The last number on the box is 9) The last # on the remote is 8.

HOWEVER, the ISC #'s are the exact same.

I still can not get back into programming mode, after i was there initially once. I tried, slow, fast, and medium key in/out strokes.

I also can still at any time flip the key to ACC, press lock on the remote and the hazards flash.

Is there a way to reset and start over? Should i disconnect the battery from the car or something??

 

HEY! That's my thread you referenced!

* Hazards after door lock / key in 6+ times means your BCM works.

* Hazards after pressing lock on the remote *should* mean that it works.


Do me a favor...open your trunk and verify you have the receiver module (metal box behind the trunk lining, mounted near the power radio antenna. The box should have two plugs in it - one goes to a bunch of wires that route back towards the front of the car, the other plug is for the keyless antenna.

Verify both items, then report back.

ALSO, is this a factory 99 key fob? Or an aftermarket? Either way, verify you've got the proper one (look up the FCC ID and make sure it matches what it's supposed to:

 

I just bought a 98 SE that came without the key fob, I ordered a used one from ebay, it's got the right serial number and have found a good thread here about how to program them, but my hazard lights don't blink when I put the key in and out 6 times (in 10 seconds).

I've tried fast, slow, medium, every kind of way but there's no reaction from the car. Any other idea what I might try?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

You need a keyless-compatible BCM. I had to go through this on my 99. If you look in the trunk, remove the liner on the right side, you will likely see NO metal box attached to the side by the power antenna.

To get keyless to work, you need BCM, receiver module (trunk box) and receiver module antenna.

To get a BCM, visit a jumkyard or PM Maxima_Joe, he might have a BCM that would work for you. It differs with manual/auto climate control as well as 95-96, 97-99. IF you get one from a jumkyard, make SURE the number on it does not end in 3. That's the non-keyless BCM.

 

You can disconnect the battery (BOTH cables) for at least 10 minutes...or if you have access to your BCM for whatever reason you can unplulg it, wait awhile, then plug back in.

BUT before you do anything, I'm not sure if you even have an antenna...I know since I haven't mounted my receiver module antenna yet, I get horrible range (5 feet) with my fob... check for the antenna plugged into your receiver module in the trunk.

 

Thanks for the lightning fast reply Amerikaner83!

It looks like I do have the BCM box:

 

PEFECT. You DO have the box (But that's the receiver module, not the BCM...the BCM is behind and below the radio and Climate controls, in the center of the dashboard about the same height as the shifter.)

Just to make sure, you're doing the following (IN THIS ORDER):
*close driver's door
*lock with power lock switch
*fully insert key, fully remove key
*repeat the above at least 5 more times in 10 seconds, no need to go fast...if one insert/remove cycle takes 1.5 seconds start to finish you're golden

At this point, your hazards should flash. If they don't, then likely you need a new BCM.

 

Awesome thanks, I'll give it another try and report back.

Update:
Still no luck, are there other things controlled by the BCM as well? Everything else seems to work fine.

 

hey guys i think i have a new problem developing. ever since i bought my maxima almost 3 months ago i noticed a clicking sound coming from the front end when ever i took decently hard turns left and right. 2 weeks ago i replaced my front break pads and i noticed on the left wheel behind the rotor there is a decent amount of grease all behind there. the clicking apears to be getting worse and it happens even on non sharp turns sometime. is this the CV axle? also are there any how to forms on how to replace it? thank you in advanced.

 

Yeppers, that's the CV axle. If you remove the wheel or look underneath, you'll see the CV boot is torn. Left AND right...chances are both of 'em are toast.

I bought my 99 with torn CV boots (no clicking yet) and I just had a shop do 'em. I haven't done them, but others on the forum have.

 

Hello,
I recently purchased my first maxima. I love it however I have a strange issue I cannot figure out.

I have researched and cannot find this problem.....

1999 Nissan Maxima
5 speed
115k miles

This problem occurs randomly...

Alternator will stop charging intermittently. When this happens, I immediately lose gauges, power windows and locks. I put a jump box on the vehicle and I still cannot operate windows, and gauges will not come on, even with 12.7 volt jump box attached( car running, not running/ switch on still wont work). I am not sure whether the alternator not charging has anything to do with the windows and gauges.... But I am led to believe an electrical Issue is causing the alternator not to charge and the other problems.

 

If the alternator stops charging, the battery will power everything until it becomes discharged. I think you are saying that the car still runs when you are having the problem. If the car is still running, what is the voltage? I would check the positive battery cable that corrosion has not eaten it away.

 

Sorry I forgot to mention. The battery is new, terminals are clean. Yes, the car still runs fine until the battery dies. However, my problem is that when I fully charge the battery or put a jump box on I still have no gauges or power to windows....

 

alright thats good to know. the left boot area is where massive grease seems to be coming from and the boot its self is a little mangled. do you think i would be able to fix the problem by just replacing the left CV axle? or do you think because it clicks with both ways i turn it will only reduce the clicking on one side?

 

iirc if it clicks to the left, one of the CVs is bad. If it clicks to the right, the other one is bad. You should double check that...just inspect the other CV boot for tears / rips / whatever.

The BCM controls stuff like dome lights, windows, locks...etc. Yours simply does not have the keyless entry functionality. Mine didn't either. The BCM is what recognizes the key in and out procedure and sets the car into programming mode. I'm not 100% sure of every function the BCM has a part of...but since it's called the Body Control Module, it's safe to assume anything non-engine / tranny related goes thru the BCM in some form or function.

You need a new BCM (one that has the keyless entry functionality coded into it).

 

TRADE 18" OEM TIRES FOR 19" TIRES NISSAN MAXIMA 2009. I'm in Queens, NY. Anybody interested?

 

go to the for sale section, ya dum-dum

 

Awesome, thanks so much for your help, I'll look around for a new BCM. This forum is great!

 

When you look around for a BCM for your 99, make SURE you get a BCM that is matched to auto or manual climate control...AND the same year range (97-99 iirc).

I'd just send Maxima_Joe a PM. I got my BCM from him, no problems.

 

about the CV boots too. Some people who are more mechanically inclined can replace just the boots and refill with axle grease. But most shops will recomend just straight up replacing since the work that needs to be done is identical to changing the boots. I found out that one of the boots I have is torn BAD, no sound at all yet but I hate that i have to eventually replace the whole thing AGAIN.

 

Has anyone lifted a Maxima? Specifically mine is a 96 and am getting to old for that sitting on the floor feeling. THINKING ABOUT 2 INCHES.

 

You could shim up the seat if there was enough headroom, but I don't think there is that much extra headroom.

Another thing would be to put larger diameter tires on the car. If you have 15 inch wheels now, you would have to go to like 19 inch tires to get the 2 inch lift. Then you have to deal with rubbing issues and speedometer inaccuracy.

You could raise the suspension, but there are also things like wheel alignment factors to deal with.

You could also do a mixture of the above possibilities. Depending on what route you take, it could be pricey.

 

I Was thinking about the combination of coil spacers and larger tires. They're relatively cheap. I'll just have to find or make a set that fits.
Thanks for the info.

 

I am looking for a mass air flow sensor that won't burn a hole in my pocket. Can anyone help me?

 

You can go to a local junkyard and pull one, that'd be cheaper than new... No clue how well it'd work...but it's not that expensive

 

ok here we go need help big time! i just replaced transmission control solonoid and i had to lower entire k frame well i got.it done and now my steering wheels spins freely no friction and no limit and tires do .ot budge it doesnt.even make.noise!

 

Are you referring to the solenoid pack in the trans? If so, why did you touch any suspension or steering at all?

You pulled the steering shaft off of the rack, most likely. Put that back together, then replace your clockspring.

 

what's up org...i want to get some new rims will 18" +24 fit?