Filler tube could be rotted out, or it could be flowing out of the pressure hose.

Have you gotten underneath to look?

 

I have had my CEL light on since I bought my car, checked the codes and it was knock sensor, egr, baro pressure? and rear heated o2 sensor. So I ended up changing my knock sensor about 2 months back. I noticed last week my rear o2 sensor coming from the cat fell out and was dangling. I went on a road trip and now the CEL light is off, the o2 sensor must have been ripped off when going on a dirt road. Is this a bad thing that the cel went off when the o2 sensor, baro pressure and egr are still faulty?

 

Rear O2 sensor is just there to make sure your cat is working so it shouldn't affect your car at all. It will come back on if haven't fixed the problem.


As for your other issues

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post6607760

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...?highlight=egr

Search is your friend

 

Oh I have read about it all before, I am just wondering if it is normal for a cel light to go off while there are currently codes there.

 

Not sure why it does that but mine did the same thing when the wires from my rear O2 sensor were destroyed from them hanging too low

So the short answer, yes I believe its normal

 

Someone plz help me!! I havent taken my car to a shop because frankly i dont have the money but ive had a few mechanics come in and look at it but they cant figure it out. It sound like it wants to turn over but it wont. Its not the battery,alternator,starter,crank/cam sensors,maf or timing chain because they were either replaced or weerent faulty to begin with. I really dont know what to do anymore. What are the sign of bad computer?

 

What do you mean by 'weren't faulty to begin with'? How do you know this? What exactly haven't you replaced?

The most obvious thing is the starter but I'm pretty sure that's one of the things you or the mechanic checked. What about the ignition switch? Have you checked that?


Gotta give me a bit more info.

 

By werent faulty i was meaning either i had recently replaced them or they had been checked out by the mechanic. The starter is doin its job but the engine wont start. Its sounds like it has no fuel but thats not the case. How do i check the ignition switch? Im not completley noob to the world of mechanics but this has me reconsidering my noobness.

 

I tried removing my oil pan a week or so ago but failed. I couldn't get the pan off, I guess the liquid gasket stuff that's on there is super tough. So I just wanted to ask if there are any tips or tricks to get that sucker off. I actually just stumbled upon a gasket remover spray on the canadian tire website. Will this stuff work? Even before I take the pan off? To help take it off I mean.

Thanks.

 

A screwdriver and a hammer. You'll need to beat the pan back into shape after you get it off, but it's the quickest and easiest way (IMO). Small scratches in the sealing surface of the upper pan aren't really anything to worry about, the RTV will handle that no problem.

 

Check pmohr's sig above- 'how to videos', he has the ignition switch in there. I would check the MAF again. Fuel filter maybe clogged. Did anythin happen right b4 the problem (work done, accident)?

When it turns over does it start then immediately die?

 

Uh, just looking around I found this neat device called a seal puller... *durr* Do you think this would be a safer investment, rather than beating the crap outta my pan?

 

Hi,

In Hawai'i, I can only find new evaporator for 220$, and drier for 60$.
I have found a website that propose it second-hand.
Do you think that an evaporator or drier is a good thing to have second hand?

On the other hand, when leaving the island (in a year), I am not planning to take the car to mainland, so new piece might not be a good idea?

can have your two cents?

thanks,
Nick

 

I replaced the fuel filter and checked it and was working as for the maf we d/c it and tried starting it and it wouldnt fully turn. I got home from work realised there wasnt food went to mcds and woke up to this problem. It sounds like car trying to start on fumes but fuel is being delivered and spark as well

 

So are you saying when you changed the fuel filter it worked for a little while? Do you mean fuel is being delivered?

Either way it sounds like something with your fuel delivery... i actually don't know much about this kinda stuff but I would check fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator.... or wait for pmohr or the Wizard

 

I'm not really sure what you should do.... i checked for junkyards near Honolulu, no luck. But check these, hopefully you haven't checked them already

Napa United Auto Parts Auto & Truck Parts
90 E Wakea Ave | Kahului, HI, 96732
PH: (808) 871-6272 | Fax: N/A

Napa Auto Parts
3562 Waialae Ave | Honolulu, HI, 96816
PH: (808) 734-2147 | Fax: N/A

Waimea Carquest
64-5192 Kinohou St | Waimea, HI, 96796
PH: (808) 885-0588 | Fax: N/A

Napa Auto Parts
168 Kamehameha V Hwy | Honolulu, HI, 96813
PH: (808) 553-3229 | Fax: N/A

Napa Auto Parts
66-252 Kamehameha Hwy | Haleiwa, HI, 96712
PH: (808) 637-5091 | Fax: N/A

 

Those are like $15 or something right? Why not then..

 

You mean like this?



That's for removing seals, not gaskets. It won't work to remove the pan, it'll likely just rip a hole right through it.

There are tools specifically for removing oil pans, like this:


However a screwdriver or a putty knife work the same way.

 

Its sounds the same after i replaced the filter.. its getting towed to a shop now because i have no other choice and limited resources..lol. I really appreciate all the help from the maxima guys here and ill always come back. Pmohr is the fu<kin man!!

 

I'm a noob but i got a serious electrical question. which fuse directly deals with the ecu output. i'm trying to get my car inspected but the port in which they are plugging the computer thingy into does not work, what is that port called and which fuse deals with that ?

 

The ECU outputs many many signals, many of which on their own circuit.

You mean the DLC? Have you actually checked any fuses yet? That would be quicker than waiting on a reply here, no?

As I've been saying, first step in electrical diagnosis is checking ALL of the fuses.

It's powered by the Engine Control fuse in the interior fuse box, however that fuse also powers a half dozen other circuits.

Why exactly does it 'not work'? Is it not getting power, ground, are the data lines not working, what?

 

yes i checked the interior fuse box and the fuses in there are operating fine. the dlc when plugged does not link up and transfer data to the shop inspection computer, either it has a bad fuse or the port itself is bad, that's what i was told. Also along with that my radio, visor mirror light and security system is inactive; all of these problems arised after i let this girl help me jumped my car and she managed to create a spark and all these problems plagued my car since. i'm so sry if i'm not being as clear as you want, but i'm extremely confused to where the root of this problem is. please let me if there's any way to help clearify my problem to you guys!

 

So again, does it not have power, is it not getting data, what? There is a difference between the two. Have you checked for power/ground at the DLC?

Tested continuity on the data lines from the DLC back to the ECU?

The 'port' can't really be bad; it's nothing more than a piece of plastic with some wires.

These problems that you neglected to mention earlier, did she hook the jumper cables up backwards?

Fuse 40 is a common link between all of those systems, labeled 'Electric Parts' in the interior fuse box, upper right hand corner.

 

She crossed the jumper cables?



if she crossed the cables when she was jumpin it she might have fried something... Hopefully its not the ecu.

 

Putty knife! Genius!
Thank you very much!

 

I'm thinking about replacing the airbags on my 97 maxima. My Maxima was refurbished and the previous owner abandoned it. So like a picked up lost kitty i'm goin to take care of it. But I don't know how much is it to take my car to a dealer to place new airgas and reset the computers. Can anyone give me an estimation as to how much it will cost?

I also have another question. the previous owner gave this maxima a weird alarm system where when the battery is removed and replaced the whole thing starts honking and locking itself shut. It is a disaster in the fuse box. There seems to be 2 fuse holders hanging by duct tape wired to the rear defroster fuse. Is it possible to remove this aftermarket alarm disaster? If so i was thinking about adding this into my maxima http://www.crutchfield.com/p_607P902...02.html?tp=149 I hope it's a good choice.

Please reply by PM i have a hard time following forums sometimes. Sorry to have taken alot of space. CYA

 

You ask for help in a thread, you receive help in that thread. Not that hard to subscribe to a thread.

Yes, of course it's possible to remove it. It would be rather ridiculous to think that it's 'impossible'. Just start tracing wires, removing, repairing and mending as you go.

As for the airbags, why would you take it to the dealer? If you're trying to get new airbags, hope you've got deep pockets for such an old car:
K851M-0L900, $627.15 each at Courtesy
K851E-2L962, $782.28 each at Courtesy

You also need to replace the airbag control unit after the airbag(s) have been deployed.
28556-53U25, $763.46 each at Courtesy

 

whats going on fellas, i just bought a maxima the other day, i know how forums are because i used to have a 03 BMW M3 till i got rear ended n used to be on bmw forums... i just got a quick question, i did a bit of my own research and got a much better idea what my problem might be, but i was just curious if i can possibly see what some people with better experience than me has to say about my problem. my car drives n shifts just fine, but last night it wouldn't shift into 4th gear(automatic). today it worked fine, and then later on it stopped doing it again... it shifts smoothly from 1-3rd but never reaches 4th. i have a 99 maxima with 135k, oil change was done 3 weeks ago. any advice? i hope i dont get flammed or ne thing, i did read ur rules n if im going against them i'm sorry, i just feel more assure of my problems when i get a response from somebody personally. again sorry and thanks in advance if u let this ride...

 

Fluid color, condition, and level? Ever done any trans maintenance?

Does the OD Off light come on at any time? Have you performed TCM diagnostics to see if there are any stored codes? CEL on?

 

Hi guys,my granddad's '95 Maxima is having a bit of a problem:
It will start fine when cold (ie in the garage when he's going out shopping) however, once he drives it in the hot summer weather and parks, when he comes back to the car he has to crank in like 5 times to get it to start (it will eventually start).
It sounds like textbook vapour lock, but I am not sure where to start in terms of looking for 'common' culprits. Has anyone had any experience with this type of issue ?

Thanks!

 

i notice that my rear passenger side wheel has accumulated a lot more brake dust than the other wheels. i figure it must be stuck, my question is could this cause the steering wheel to pull slighty to the right?

thanks

 

Is the steering wheel pulling, or is the car drifting?

If it's the steering wheel that's pulling, then no. If the car drifts to the right, then possibly.

 

I wanted to post a thread about this, but can't.
So here it is.
I had rapid clicking from my engine at idle after warm up.
So I figured sticky lifters right?
Tried SeaFoam and the noise remains.
Any ideas?

Haven't used a listening device so I suppose sound COULD be coming from timing chain... Hmmm...
If so how do I make this go away. Its not very noticeable but its becoming an annoyance when I show my car to new people and they say "sounds like crap".

Thanks.

 

sure its not your injectors?

http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=633489

^14 threads on timing chain noise. give them a check

 

The VQ doesn't have lifters.

As B_Eaze said, it's most likely the injectors, they're not exactly quiet on the VQ.

 

I know it lack's in lifters.
I was jst putting it that way. I figured stick VALVES. Haha.

But thanks, Ill check it out.

 

Heres the deal. Sometimes my car does not startup, when this happens all the electronics are on headlights radio etc, but when turning the key no noise at all. Ill leave it sit and try the next day and have no problem for weeks. But its at random. I just recently had my alternator replaced, the battery is new, and the starter was replaced about 1 year ago. any ideas?

 

Auto? Manual? At least some details about your car would be helpful...

 

You should check your ignition switch, and alternator, Pmohr has a detailed video in his signature its called HowTo on checking the ignition switch I had the same problem as you for a few days and even after my fuel filter and various filters and parts were changed it still happens once in a while, until I tried sticking electrical tape into the little notch in the ignition thing-a-ma-bobber as described in the video and my starts have been problem free for quite a while.

 

Hi. New to the forum. I've been shopping hard for a cheap daily driver and found a Maxima for sale locally from a private party and wanted to get feedback on price. It's a 97 SE 5sp. with Bose, auto climate, heated leather, dual power seats, and sunroof. Black on black. The car has 212K miles on it. The guy is the 2nd owner and has owned it about a year. The guy is a nut about the car and has done a ton of work to it. The first owner was an engineer for an auto supplier (here in sunny Detroit) and had also done a lot of work. The guy has a binder with every receipt and every maintenance item he's done to it. From what I can remember, here's the rundown:
Before the current owner bought it, the original owner had:
- replaced the clutch with a higher performance clutch (not sure what brand)
- timing chain tensioner and apparently the chain itself was replaced
- All four struts were replaced "a few years ago" with new springs and it was lowered an inch.

The current owner has:
- replaced rear rotors and pads, one rear caliper, front pads
- replaced every fluid, except the power steering.
- new belts
- new tires (on the original 16" rims)
- replaced a front fender for some rust
- replaced both front axles
- replaced a few front end suspension components. He fitted the new one with grease fittings and greases them with every oil change.
- he put in a new radiator support that had rusted. In addition to the support, the guy's dad is a metal fabricator so they welded custom reinforcements to the radiator support along the bottom. It looks like it will last longer than the rest of the car.
- put in an OEM O2 sensor
- documented every oil change
- there's a few other odds and ends I can't quite remember.

Problems the car:
- AC needs to be evacuated and recharged. He had to take the condenser off when he did the radiator support a couple of months ago.
- Some rust on the bottom of the front fender that he didn't replace.
- the antenna is gone, broken off at the base
- the clips that hold the cup holder assembly broke and the cup holder was loose
- overall, the paint was just ok, quite a few stone chips in the hood and a few small rust spots coming through the paint here and there.

Other than that, the car ran great. Clutch is a little stiff, but it shifted smooth and the engine sounded sweet. All the power accessories work.

So, Maxima lovers, after that laundry list, the question is: is this a $3000 car? He was asking $3200 firm, but wouldn't budge past $3000. He also said he would take off the straight pipe and put the muffler back on (it was a little too loud for me).

What do you think?