Check your sway bar end links. If the bushings are all shot to hell, change the whole links, they are cheap and easy to repair yourself. You can also push down on the fender and see if you can replicate the sound. I set a video camera up facing the end links, since I was working by myself, then pushed down on the fender. When I reviewed the video, I could see the links moving all over the place and making the noise I was hearing.

When mine went, I heard a banging/knocking/thumping sound when coming to a stop and when going over bumps at low speeds. Also check the rest of your suspension parts while you're at it.

 

**** I may have a leak else where. I hope it isn't the RMS. I'll clean it up on Sunday and try and pin the leak down

 

Not sure if you're leaking on the same side as the Oil pressure switch but the RMS is on the other side of the motor. May be the cam sensor leaking since that is above the oil pressure switch. could be valve covers too. Also, the RMS typically does not fail. Usually the leak is actually coming from the upper oil pan seal which is right below the RMS on the driver side. See attached link for a blow up. Not sure if this is relevant to you since I am not sure which side of the car your leak is coming from.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13529603112502

 

how much did it cost to have them installed?

 

What are you talking about? You need to "quote" whatever you are referring to so we know what you are talking about.

 

It's around the oil pressure switch area. It's not the valve covers because I've replaced and checked those.

 

Lower Oil pan gasket?? Half Moon seal for the upper oil pan?

 

Won't be able to check it out until Sunday. I think I may be due for a lower oil pan gasket. I'll get back to you.

 

My switch was leaking, so I changed that. My lower pan gasket is also starting to leak and it leaks right in that general area. I think when the car is moving, the wind blows the oil back toward the switch so it accumulates there. Good luck!

 

I finally got a chance to get under the car an do some looking around. It ended up being the exhaust. I think a hanger is missing so the pipe swings a bit. I did check out the bushings also and they look bad so im gonna take care of those also. Thanks for the reply

 

I have a 96, and I just put some XXR 518's on 'em. 18x8.5 +35 offset, it looks nice and all but for some reason the front passenger side seems to stick out about 1-1.5in more than the others. The ride isn't affected or anything, no rubbing, or funny noises. Any ideas on why? Maybe the axles?

I already am planning on replacing the axles next week or so because the cv boots are shot.

I've spent literally the past 3 days looking through the stickies and other threads to find the answer but I keep coming up short.

 

My 95 Maxima kept dying even after replacing the battery. I was trying to start it off a battery charger when I heard a strange clicking sound coming from the passenger side relay(?) box. It was coming from the "Horn 2" relay. When I removed it, my car started right up and ran fine except the radio/dash lights/remote entry stopped working.

I went to the local auto parts store and picked up a new relay, plugged it in, but nothing changed. Still no power for radio etc. Anyone have any ideas? Did they give me the wrong part? Thanks!!

(really glad I found this site, has already helped me a bunch, but I couldn't find any threads with this issue...)

 

hey guys, I'm stumped. so I've searched and searched but I cannot find a definite answer. I want some yellow 3000k fogs for my 99 Max, but will they fit? I've searched and some people say yes they fit and some say no you have to mod them to get them to fit properly. and what about H3c bulbs? are they better fitment for the fogs. I'm really not looking to have to mod something and potentially screw up my fogs. and if it comes down to it i guess I would do a yellow film over my fogs it looks decent from what i see. but I much rather the HID 3000k fogs then doing that.. can somebody shed some light on my confusion?

 

This is the link to the exact parts I bought if it helps any:

 

Thank you for a great resource...I have been a member since 2004....I have found many threads that have helped, but not being a mechanic I have had little to help. I just posted a question but according to your newbie thread I can't post without at least 15 responses.

Please review my question and see if it is worthy to be posted. Thank you,

Peter

 

Hi i have started modding my 96 max, but im trying to buy a catback exhaust and headers from ebay.
1.Wishing there wasn't such a riced looking muffler but is this ebay catback going to sound good and perform well? Or at least like custom maxima's catback?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-1999-NI...247dad&vxp=mtr
2.Is this a good set of headers of no?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Head...ac22a6&vxp=mtr
Thanks!

 

Ok guys I need your opinion. I have read and followed every topic I can on here and just need someone to put it all together for me.

'98 Max GXE Auto

Symptoms: Rough idle in park, drive, and neutral. RPMs do not fluctuate (anymore). Slight hesitation when give gas and when let off gas. feels like car is choking. I have stalled out 2 times, but it started right back up.

I have already replaced a few things with the help of this site. I have replaced the TPS, MAF, spark plugs, and 6 new coil packs.

I am also about to replace my Knock Sensor, and the dreaded Water Pump as it is leaking bad in that area. At the same time I was thinking I should replace the ECTS.

Is it possible that because the cooling system is not functioning properly, the ECTS has failed and that is causing the rough idle? or would that be a separate unrelated issue?


I had CEL for TPS which is why that was replaced. Then i started getting codes for the MAF and after cleaning to no avail I just replaced it and the RPMs stopped jumping, but the rough idle still exists. So I then replaced the spark plugs and coil packs which helped but still rough idle. Currently the CEL is not on, and only code I am getting is the KS code.

 

Have you checked/cleaned your IACV (Idle air control Valve)? A KS can be had on ebay for about $8...Thats what I bought a year ago and have had no issues.

 

Thanks for the reply, waiting on gaskets to get here so I can address the IACV. Already got a ebay KS.


But I am at another crossroads and need help fast.

I am trying to change out my water pump, the how to's here on the org made me believe that while difficult, I could do this. Well I cannot get one of the motor mounts bolts to come off, I have already broken 2 u-joints because I cannot get flush on the nut. (see picture below)




I could get to it easier if this wheel was not in the way (see pic below)



Is it safe to remove that for easier access? or should I avoid messing with it to prevent further issues.

If it is better to leave that alone, is there a better what to get to the timing tensioner? Some posts say motor mount must be removed others say it doesn't have to, I don't see how it can be done without removing it.


in addition to that, while i was removing the alternator tensioner pulley I think i broke the bolt adjuster (shown Below)



I will need a new one of those correct? I mean are those 2 parts supposed to be welded together as 1 part?


any help is beyond appreciated, I think I am in way over my head and have posted for help in the regional section, but If i can do this myself I am going to keep at it. thanks in advance.

 

You could remove the crank pulley to get a little more room, but it's entirely unnecessary. Personally I've never had a problem removing that nut with a deep socket and an impact swivel (haven't used a u-joint in a very long time, they're more prone to breakage).

You can get to the timing chain tensioner without removing the mount, it just makes access a bit more difficult. If you remove the PS reservoir, you'll have enough room to sneak back there. Personally, I always remove the mount, should only take a few minutes, and makes it that much easier.

The belt tensioner bolts are common to seize up and break if they haven't been touched in a long time.

If those are your only two broken parts, then all you need to order (or get at a junkyard) are these two part numbers:
11948-31U00, $12.08 at Courtesy
11934-31U00, $6.27 at Courtesy

 

Thanks for the awesome response Pmohr, and for your continued contributions to this site and helping Maxima owners all over the world.

I have applied a heavy does of PB blaster after a few more failed attempts to loosen it and will let it sit overnight as I am loosing sunlight. If that fails I will see if the auto parts store has an impact wrench I can get on loan per your suggestion of using the impact swivel.

And thanks again for those part #'s. Hopefully I can find one and can remove it without breaking it again from our local pull-a-part, but I have a feeling I will be ordering from those links.

 

FWIW you don't need an impact, I just always prefer the impact swivel because they're stronger and usually provide more than enough swivel angle for your basic needs. Usually I just use a long ratchet, 12" or so extension, impact swivel, and a deep socket to get those off. The first few times were a PITA, you just have to learn how to go about it and it's not so bad.

 

A caution with the belt tensioner - before you start turning the adjuster screw, you should loosen the nut in the center of the tensioner pulley. If you didn't loosen that nut, you will strip/break the adjusting screw.

 

Hello to all! Newbie here. I have a question and I hope someone can help me out. My '96 Maxima's alarm isn't working. I recently had my car broken into and they took a spare alarm remote among other things. Anyway, I reset the alarm by sticking the key in the ignition trick, and attempting to program my original remote, but it no longer registers. I thought it might be the remote itself, since it is rather old, and I replaced it with a sweet deal I found for a new one on eBay. I tried it programming the new remote and same problem it didn't program to the alarm. The alarm itself is working and arms itself whenever I lock the car from the inside. Suggestions?

Thank you,
RViddy

 

Th remote has to have a FCC id # of A269ZUA078 to work with the 4th gen. An actual Nissan remote will have this number molded into the plastic on the back side, but aftermarket remotes may not do that.

Here is the procedure for programming the remote. Maybe this will help.

To program the remote(s) follow this procedure.

1. Unlock all doors and get in car.

2. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.

3. Insert the igniton key and completely remove from the ignition switch
at least 6 times within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice and all previous codes will be cleared.

4. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

5. Push the "Lock" button on the new remote controller once. At this time,
the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice.

If you are programming just one remote, go to step 10.
If you need to activate additional remote controllers, continue with Step 6.

6. Manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock
****.

7. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.

8. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and
additional remote is programmed.

9. For additional remotes, go back to step 6.

10. When done, open the driver's door to exit programming state.


NOTE: A maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.

 

Yeah that part I can do with no problem. But the thing is, when I push the button on the remote the car will not read it or program it. I know it's the right remote, and I know I'm doing it right since I can program my other car. I just don't understand if it's something with the alarm that's preventing me from programming it.

 

Hello all! I have a 97 Max and it has a couple leaks coming from the passenger side, a rough shift from 1st to 2nd;(Automatic) the steering wheel shakes once I get on the freeway. I wanted to see if anybody has had the same problems, and if so how they fixed it.

Thanks!

LTsolis

 

You'll need to be a little more specific...
1. Describe the leaks more...pics will be helpful...what type of fluid is leaking...where is it leaking from?
2. Rough shift...any codes/check engine light? Hows your tranny fluid?
3. Steering wheel shake usually points to tire issues like balancing, bad tires, suspension issues etc. Gonna need more info here too. Are your tires balanced, any fix-a-flat used in the tires, hows your suspension parts, alignment all good??

 

Yeah I loosened that nut but it still broke, If i am remembering correctly I think the adjuster screw is reverse threaded so that Is where I messed it up. But with Pmohr's help I got the parts needed and was able to get the tensioner back in place and the belt back on.

I also tried using an impact swivel (not the wrench ) to get the motor mount off but I am pretty sure I stripped the nut in my previous attempts. Hopefully other noobs come across this post first before doing what I did.

So I dropped it off at a shop this morning, $400 for the water pump + labor was the quote. I can't complain since my inexperience would have made things worse I'm sure once I actually got in there. But I may need your help again guys when I attempt to replace the radiator that is now leaking at the top corners...most likely due to the overheating from failed water pump Im guessing.

 

Right now my service engine light is on for a 97 Maxima. Upon getting the diagnostice codes I got P0600, P1441, P1447. So far the couple of mechanics that I've talked to really aren't familiar with the vacuum cut valve bypass valve or the evap purge flow monitor.
The dealership wants $280 for the parts and another $300 for the labor which I would prefer to avoid. Should I just bite the bullet and pay this or figure out how to better describe the problem to another mechanic and have them take care of it?

 

Sorry to hear you had to take the car to a shop and pay the big bucks. If it's any comfort to you, you've learned some tricks for another time.

Some suggestions on the radiator. There are 4 rubber donuts or washers or whatever they are called that hold the radiator in, 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. The lower ones are much thicker. You can see the top ones easy enough, but you can't see the bottom ones until you take the radiator out. your car is are 14 plus years old and those rubber things deteriorate. I had bought new upper ones but didn't know about the lowers. I couldn't believe how bad my lower ones were. So I would recommend replacing all 4 of them when you replace the radiator. Part numbers:

upper = 21506-51E00 list price $2.53 on-line price $1.91.
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts...506-51e00.html

lower = 21507-59Y00 list price $8.10 on-line price $6.11
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts...507-59y00.html

I don't recommend ordering these on-line as the shipping charges will make them more expensive than going to the dealer.

As for the radiator, there is a sponsor of the org that sells Koyo brand radiators at a discount. Koyo is a good radiator. I've bought them for 2 cars so far. The price for your car is $106.36 shipped. I would suggest calling them on the phone or pm through the org. Don't use the web link, many people have problems, can't find the radiator, can't get the org price.

http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...t-pricing.html

 

P0600=0504

Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.

This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery

P1441=0801
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0801 points to a problem with the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve. The malfunction is detected when an improper voltage signal is sent to the Engine Control Module through the VCVBV. The possible causes of this problem include a defect with the wiring or electrical connector, or with the valve itself. The VCVBV is located under the car, near the rear left tire. It is near the Evaporative Emission Canister but not mounted directly on it.

The VCVBV is a solenoid-controlled air valve. You may remove it from the vehicle and perform a bench test. There are two air hose nipples on the valve. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric connector. The polarity doesn't matter. With the VCVBV solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.

P1447=0111
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0111 is detected when ...
- EVAP control system does not operate properly.
- EVAP control system has a leak in the line between intake manifold and EVAP control system pressure sensor.

Possible causes include ...
- EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve stuck closed.
- EVAP control system pressure sensor and its circuit.
- Loose, disconnected, or improper connection of rubber tube.
- Blocked rubber tube.
- Blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve.
- Cracked EVAP canister.
- EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.
- Closed Throttle Position Switch.
- Improper connection of one-way valve.
- Blocked purge port.
- EVAP canister vent control valve.

 

I have a strange sound coming from my 96 se, I can't tell where its coming from but its getting really annoying. It kind of sounds like metal rubbing in the transmission or something. I only hear it in first and the beginning of second, also when I first start it up.if anyone has had a similar problem and can fill me in on what's going on with my max, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

OK guys just a follow up. Water pump has been replaced, and I have installed another radiator. I ran the engine until warm with heat on full blast and cap off to get air out...the heat did not work at first which was a bit scary, but when I put the cap back on and the drivers side fan started up and the heat began to kick in. that all seems normal/good.

Temp gauge right in the middle if not very very slightly on the cool side.

No leaks and everything looks good so far but the passenger side fan has not come on at all yet. In some of the other threads I searched I saw that it is normal for only one (left side one) to come on with the heat.

Well I tried the AC to see if that would kick in the right side fan but nothing happened...My AC also needs a recharge (or something else) so is it possible that could be the cause? I plan to check the fan relay and possibly a new fan motor for that side per some of the other threads here on the org. Just want to make sure I am checking the right areas and not diagnosing the wrong issue. Like maybe that fan only comes on in certain scenarios?

Thank you all again for your infinite knowledge, the old max is starting to feel normal again.

 

Both radiator fans should come on at the same time. Those that say otherwise are not talking about a Maxima. One wire from the ECU sends the signal to 1 relay that sends power to both fans, so you don't have a relay problem. There is only one fuse for both fans, so you do not have a blown fuse. That leaves the fan motor itself. The bearings in the fan motors have a habit of going bad after 12 - 15 years. I don't feel that that is all that bad. Anyway, grab the fan blade (engine off, of course) and see if you can wiggle the fan blade. There should be absolutely NO wiggle in the fan blade. But no wiggle does not guarantee a bad motor. You can also try measuring the voltage to the fan motor. Start the car and turn on the A/C so the fans will run. At the fan motor connector, the white/black stripe wire should have 12 volts on it. The white/black wire is the wire harness color. The wires that are built onto the fan have different colors. If you have 12 volts on the white/black stripe wire, the electrical circuit is good and the fan is bad.

 

In this kit, they are also paired with an oem replacement strut. What I was referring to is that the tokico combo of blues are considered more of an oem replacment. The springs can be paired with others such as Illuminas to make them more of a lowering combo yes. But I meant the combo itself. Tokico Blue combo is considered OEM replacement.

Getting it fixed is the most important part.

 

New guy here. ive got a 1998 with leather interior. im in need of new front seats. the 2 fronts are so hard and are starting to fall apart. is there a seat from any other nissan that may have better bolstering in it that may be direct bolt in?

 

intermittent buzzing sound help!

Hello i have a 99 Nissan Maxima se 5spd manual, when i get up to 65mph to 70mph ill here a buzzing type of sound coming from the engine bay. if i back off the gas and drop below 70mph it goes away, if i continue and go to like 80mph and above the sound goes away completely but when i let it slow back down right when it passes through 60-70 range it comes back then goes away for a split second. somedays the sound wont even be there at all then it comes back next time i drive it. the car doesn't seem to be running any different, also its been doing this since like 165000 now it has 180000 but the sound has altered a little bit. please help i really need to solve this.

 

You may have one of the metal heat shields coming loose. Check the exhaust manifolds and exhaust system that everything is tight.

Sounds are tough to diagnose over the internet.

 

all the heat shields are mostly removed, any other suggestions ?