So, I read through all of this to about page 120. I found similar problems. But wasn't sure if they were directly related to my issue. I may have overlooked a few because I was going through this at about 4 in the morning. But to the point. It's a 97' SE (150,000mi). CEL is on and throwing up a knock sensor and upstream o2 sensor code. Its comes and goes as it pleases on both. Also, since I bought the car a month ago. It doesnt seem to have the power it should. I have already gone through and pulled off the throttle valve, iavc, intake(upper and lower) and a few smaller things, cleaned them all, and put them back in. All of the spark plugs are new(replaced 2 weeks ago, ngk platinum) and I checked all of the coils and plug boots to make sure they're all working properly as well. Im lost as hell. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

About three months ago this car started stalling after the first stop I come to "temp gage at about 1/2 way up". Car would have ruff idle at stop sign, would take off then die in the middle of intersection. Would be hard to start, once it was started it would run fine the rest of the way to work "45 miles". The car will do the same thing in the afternoons on the way home, about the same distance tell it dies. I changed out mass air flow, this help the car run better, but still is dieing. I pulled the codes yesterday after the engine had warmed up and got these. "did not die on the way and check light stayed off after clearing codes"
p0115
p0180
p0450
p0446
p0125
p1400
On the way in this morning car died in the same spot again, light came back on. I pulled the codes this morning and got these.
p0135
p0446
A little more information: once the cars dies it will not start back up tell you turn the key off. "only have one key on key chain"
Other things I have done to fix this all done after it start doing this.
Pulled fuel pump from gas tank cleaned screen
With engine running, sprayed ether on all vac hose looking for leak
put new plugs in
changed fuel filter
changed air filter
only run high octane gas
ran sea foam threw two tanks of gas
ran sea foam in to intake an let set
checked for loose wires
Anybody have a clue where I should be looking now. I am thinking one thing could be causing all the other but not sure. Any help would be great.

Sorry for being so long but the information mite help someone smarter than me. "TRICK OR TREAT" I want the treat not all these tricks!

 

First question..what spark plugs are in your Max? Hopefully NGK's.

An upstream O2 will affect performance and gas mileage. KS could just be a piggyback code, so do the O2 first. Hopefully the KS will go away and not come back then.

However, a bad KS will kill your power too.

 

I replaced with NGK platinums. The previous owner did mention replacing 2 of the o2's so thats whats throwing me off, but i'll go ahead and try that anyways. I also have an issue with starting. Don't know whether or not that is related. But whether it's hot or cold. Sometimes it starts right up, other times it takes a second try.

 

This afternoon I cleared the codes again, started the car and let it idle. It ran smooth as silk, tell the temp gage got to the mid way point. At that point it just died. Read the codes on it once again. It had three codes on it.
p0125 ECT Sensor
p1445 =1008 which is an EVAP code ???
p0115 ECT Sensor

 

Ah, I'm trying.

 

It takes a while to get used to how FAST (which is what everything on Courtesy's site is ripped from) is set up. For example, try to find the AC/Alt belt tensioner...

 

So I got the CPS 0407 code which is for the reference sensor (next to the oil filter) according to my searching here in the archives.

So when I'm talking to the parts store they ask if it's front or rear sensor.

Which one is it? I was going to try cleaning it first but the car does have 150+ k miles on it, might be just time to change it.

I've seen people claim both rear and front.

 

Code: P1335 | Description: Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)




It would be front, but there's only one CKPS REF, the other is the CKPS POS.

The CKPS POS would be the 'rear':


Personally I wouldn't just throw a part at it without following any diagnostics, but

What sort of symptoms do you have? Note that a slow/irregular start can cause the code as well.

 

When I go to start my car after it has sat for several hours it takes a bit longer than normal cranking and when it catches it dies right away.

This developed a little while after I changed the FPR (which was faulty). When I pulled the 0407 code, the check engine light went off when I turned the screw back to it's normal position.

 

Im not sure, but possibly 230?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1814_1819.html

 

Hey guys, just recently picked up a 97 GLE auto with approx 169k on the clock.

When I purchased the car the SES light was on, I figure no biggie since I know Maxima's will throw an SES code for damn near anything, had it scanned at AutoZone and they said there were 2 codes, 1 for EGR malfunction (don't give a **** about) and the 2nd was a knock sensor code, this worried me a bit at first but I was hoping it was just that the knock sensor had malfunctioned and praying it hadn't actually picked up a knock. The AutoZone worker of course was no major help and couldn't tell me which was the case, and just erased the codes and said to come back if the light came back on.

Of course it did just a couple days ago, brought it back in and they said now there were 3 codes, the EGR, and now 2 knock sensor codes, and the knock sensor codes now can't be deleted. I'm starting to panic because I really hope there isn't a knock!!!! I didn't take the time to write down the code #'s or anything, do any of you know if it's possible that the sensor has just malfunctioned and the ECU is telling me to replace it asap before an actual knock does occur or is it more likely that the knock sensor has indeed picked up a knock??

Also 1 slightly less important problem but still a problem nonetheless, a couple nights ago my gauge cluster lights all just went out at once, I've looked at all 4 fuse locations and can't find any fuses that appear to go to the cluster, what do I need to do to get my lights back?

I appreciate your help in advance.

Really praying I didn't pick up a dud!!!! I know these cars can run a long time.

 

Knock sensor could be cracked ... Read this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-tutorial.html

 

Thanks for the tip! Seems simple enough, I'll head out to the garage and take a look at er and report back.

How about the cluster lights?

EDIT: Just read some other posts in the thread and apparently a KS code will not throw an SES light and that it is a "ghost code"? So does this mean that it's only there because of the EGR malfunction?

Btw, I tried getting at the knock sensor and I decided to not bother tonight, I had a hell of a hard time getting to it. Theres no space down there!!

The only thing I wonder is why a second code came up and why they can't be erased? Perhaps I'll try posting in that thread as well...

 

Guys, I have an exhaust leak on my 95 Maxima 3.0 and just had a question. How many miles do you guys get to a full tank of gas? Mine is horrible. My old buick got 250 miles with a full tank $25 of gas this maxima took $38 to fill up and its already almost empty at 192 miles. i have a quarter tank left.


is this bad gas mileage or normal?

 

Also, Another question. What are some good replacement spark plugs? are the Ngk-Gp-Platinum / Spark Plug good???

 

Here's for the guage cluster: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-location.html

I believe the KS "ghost code" won't cause the CEL to illuminate, but it'll be there, so when all the codes are read, the "ghost codes" will surface.

This is a thread about someone with horrible gas mileage:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ys-gettin.html

This is a thread about someone with 31mpg:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-possible.html

There are certain factors that create bad gas mileage.

etc ...

The most my maxima ever got was 20mpg. But I live in NYC and i'd consider it "city driving." I used to get 300miles/tank when I was bowling in NJ and going there once a week.


NGK spark plugs are the ones to go with.

Link to changing them out: http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=45

 

So I took the CPS (REF) off and cleaned it thoroughly last night. Checked the harness and followed it back to where it goes up the backside of the motor, and also where it goes to another sensor with a rubber grommet over it and everything looks ok. No exposed wires, no signs of damage from road debris.

This morning after I let a car sit outside overnight, same thing. Car started and died right away. Tried again, and it starts and stalls again. Once I got it going then the CEL came on and I'm going to go check that right now. I'm positive it's the 0407 code again.

 

Thanks for that link, I changed the fuse and the lights worked for a bit but the fuse blew again.....is it possible that there is a bigger problem? Anyway for me to diagnose it at home?

 

The only thing I can think of is that there's a short someone, unfortunately that's about all I know.

We'll have to wait for pmohr to chime in.

 

yeah that is pretty bad mpg. should get closer to 400 miles on a tank.

 

First time on the forums, and I searched but couldn't find this particular question/issue. 1999 Maxima is having starting issues. It still starts fine most of the time, but occasionally it doesn't start and even when it does, it makes the grating sound that it would make if the engine was running and you tried to start the ignition. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch and would love if someone might be able to shed some light before I take it into a shop. Thanks in advance.

 

Nope, 275:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1822_1844.html

In body electrical, of all places.

Something is drawing too much current, blowing the fuse. That or of course there could be a short, but that should blow the fuse immediately. Have to go through the circuit component by component, see what's doing it.

It's a starter issue, may just need to be regreased, or could require a rebuild. If the latter, it's generally cheaper and easier to just get a new unit.

 

you should give a **** about the EGR. you need that to be in proper working order or you will face problems later down the road.
there are several links regarding cleaning the EGR.

go back and write the codes down. we can advise further after you have done that.

did you check the fuse marked "meter" under the dash?

 

I got some Glow Gauges for my 95 maxima but i cannot seem to get them on! i get them on over the original faces but the two screws i took out dont go into the new faces.

how do i get the new faces to stay on? glue them or make wholes in them? thanks.

 

Hey people! I picked up a 96 SE auto(91k on it for $2k) about 5 months ago as a 3rd vehicle(got a 89 civic si, 08 triumph daytona 675) for me and the girlfriend. I have already replaced the cracked knock sensor(got the cut up hand to prove it),cleaned the ground on the mani, added the tokico blue strut/spring combo, replaced front and rear suspension mounts, 4 new Yoko Avid H4S tires, replaced the belts, new brakes/rotors all around and I'm going to be replacing the EGR solinoid soon(tech pulled the code at work for me) and the driver and pass cv shafts.
Over the past few months (maybe once or twice a week)I have been getting a small starting issue. I've read thru a bunch of pages of the 4th gen having some starting issues. So far, when we attempt to start it nothing happens. We wait maybe 4 min, and it turns right over. Other times, we try, wait for 4-5 min and nothing, then we shift the gear selector thru p-r-n-d and back again and it'll start. When it starts, there isn't any lag or any signs of hesitation, it just starts. I was going to replace the ignition switch (tumbler and key), but was going to try the tape fix first. Anything else I should check?

Thanks in advance!

 

The ignition switch is really an easy fix .. Takes 20 minutes .. The part costs $30 from any auto store.

There's a how to on how to do it: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lots-pics.html

 

P.S. has a leak how can i check where is it coming from cuz its covered with fliuds

 

Hi all

I have a Maxima 95 SEL. The problem is with the A/T, when I put my foot on the gas, it will rev up to 7000rpm and will make the needle bounce before changing into 2nd, as it would if you didn't change gear on a manual. 1st is the only gear that is doing this. I have changed the transsmission fluid today. Will this problem go away now, or is it more likley to be a sensor problem?

Really need to find out, as I don't want to do any more damage.

 

Have you not...cleaned it up?

How did the old fluid look? Lots of metal in the pan?

 

Yea I read that the other day. Easy stuff. I was thinking about just installing a push button start and using the key to just unlock the streering wheel. Anyone else do this?

 

does anyone know how to tighten the tensioner for the PS pulley in other words which way do you turn it to tighten it

 

Some people have, but IMO it's not really worth it. If you already have the key in the lock cylinder, you might as well just keep turning it to start the car. Spend $30 on a plug and play ignition switch, or who knows how much custom wiring up a push button start.

 

i pulled the code 0111 usin pmohr decoder but usin the ODB-II what would this code be converter to. The 0111 usin pmohr decoder is EVAP PURGE FLOW MONITORING have no clue on what i need to do first because everyone uses the ODB-II

 

If you used my CEL decoder, then you would've seen the OBD-II code listed right next to the CEL code.

How did you 'pull the code' using my tool? It's only there to decode the flashes/OBD-II P-code, not to actually pull them.

Anyway, if you look at that very same page again:
Code: P1447 | Description: EVAP Purge Flow Monitoring

 

your definition of "pulling codes" and mine are different i didnt do anything you havent discovered; but does fueling your car while the engine is running does it cause the check engine light to come on i heard this through many people and i also googled it?

 

I have a 97 maxima w/ around 207K on it... i bought a 2006 maxima vq35de to replace my motor. im not machanically inclined enough to do the swap on my own, my uncle is helping me. he is concerned that the 2006 motor is designed to only work with a 2006 ecu. i looked all over the forums and internet but have only found this swap up to a 2004-5 motor... will the 2006 work? now if it will is it better to swap the timing components or get a standalone ECU? i know the Standalone is going to be more expensive but is it worth it? Thanks.

 

-new guy-

i have a 96 max with 133,000. i need to replace cv axle on both sides, but im not sure if i have gxe, se, or gle. ive searched to find the differences but nothing was really definitive. heres some basics...

cloth interior
auto
no spoiler

im not sure but all a32s have ABS and open diff right??

i just need info so i can buy the right halfaxles

thanks!

 

[QUOTE=GrocerySnake;7280156-new guy-

i have a 96 max with 133,000. i need to replace cv axle on both sides, but im not sure if i have gxe, se, or gle. ive searched to find the differences but nothing was really definitive. heres some basics...

cloth interior
auto
no spoiler

secondly, all a32s have ABS and locking diff right??

i just need info so i can buy the right halfaxles

thanks![/QUOTE]

Did you read the stickies? http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html
But the trim level is completely irrelevant to you buying axles.

Secondly no, not all A32s had ABS, and no USDM A32 Maxima had VLSD.

How would it be 'designed' to only work with an A34 ECU? The engine is essentially just a bunch of metal and plastic.

Are we to assume that you're doing a hybrid swap, given the question? Are you looking to retain EGR? If so, the A34 VQ35 would be your best bet, as it has external EGR, the A33B doesn't. Of course you could rig something up or just get an A34 UIM, but I digress.

 

i have a 98 maxima. i wanted to buy a dek engine. i wanted to know if i would need the ecu also or would my stock ecu work fine?