start cleaning and blowing through every hose related to EGR. Run a bottle or two of chevron techron. Can try seafoaming as well.

im new here so hi! i just swapped a 97 maxima vq30de into my 99 maxima. this is a stupid question im sure but after i swapped it i had to put my 99 maximas egr valve and whole egr system on the 97 engine and all the sensors on the intake manifold on the 97 engine also, so that my wiring harness would work. but now it has not much power and its acting like it has a BAD missfire. i scanned it and it said that my CKP sensor, MAF sensor and knock sensor are bad. i pulled my MAF sensor while the car was running and the car died. im assuming it is working right then. so im thinking that the codes are there and my car runs like crap cause i need to swap a computer?? ECU? BCM? any help would be great! and sorry about the long post.

Today I started replacing my PCV valve, not realizing the hose on there is the original one that came with the car (and now it's a ruined hose).

Would it be bad to keep driving the car with the hose disconnected for a few days?

I did order a new hose from courtesy but I don't know how long it's going to take to get to me.

Yes, it will be OK to drive the car. A week won't hurt it. If you drove it for a real long time, the engine oil would get contaminated, but a week won't be any problem.

Where should I look fsm-book for european models?
I have US version already. There is some differences in engine and wiring is little bit various.

Im sorry if my english is bad.

Needing a new camshaft position sensor O-ring.
Local auto store sells a multipack of about 20 different sizes for $3 vs $3 for just the one OEM.
Safe to give the multipack a try?
Does anyone know the specific part number if OEM is required?

22131-38U00 for Hitachi sensor

22131-38U12 for Mistsubishi sensor

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...ew_pnlPartList

^^ thanks. Bookmarking that site now.
Courtesy and ASAP were really little help on this one.

Will the sensor be labeled so I know which manufacture is which?
& I'm guessing your saying OEM or nothing here..

I have not pulled a sensor out, so I don't know how to identify the different brands. I was surprised to see a different o-ring because of the brand of the sensor. They both go in the same opening, so ???

I am not saying specifically that you should get the o-ring from Nissan. My car has non-Nissan parts on it. As one example, I have 3 autozone ignition coils on it and they work fine for me. But I usually will use Nissan gaskets because they are usually the cheapest. If you can find an o-ring that fits the cam sensor at CVS pharmacy or wherever, go ahead and use it.

^^Your one of the best on here.
Thank you!

Hope this question isnt redundant but ive been searching for hours and cant find an answer. I am a noob to cars and maximas i recently got a 97 maxima and found out the midpipe is messed up and needs to be replaced.. where can i find this and is $355.00 a good quote to have one found and installed by a mechanic??

I like this site:
http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com...ima/Categories

Wow, what a hidden gem.

Out of curiousity would you happen to know if that setup fits both fed and cali spec? My current catback is an ebay fartcannon - i overlooked that fed specs have the short length of tube with the o2 bung right after the cat, and since my cali did not, the pipe was 6 inches short, requiring me to have to weld more length in. Overall it fits very poorly and bangs all over the place, thus why it needs replacing.

Im not seeing anything regarding speccs on the website, would you happen to know offhand?

Thanks!

I'm not sure.
I run from Cali spec.
It's worth an email to the company.
They are very customer friendly.

Is it possible for the mpg's to go down if the fuel cap isn't keeping the system pressurized? when I go to fill up, and slowly turn the cap, it doesn't make any noise.

I have a 1995 GLE, california emissions
Also the codes I have are P0170 (fuel system malfunction), P0136, and P0400.

No, the non pressurized fuel tank is not causing your mpg problem. It is most likely the P0170 code with some help from the P0400 code.

P0170 - Fuel Injection System Malfunction, Bank 1 - page EC-187

P0136 - Rear O2 sensor fault - page EC-192 (just keep reading from EC-187)

P0400 - EGR system - page EC-129. Many times this indicates a plugged metal tube (1/2 inch diameter) that connects the EGR valve with the cylinder head.

The page numbers are from the Nissan FSM. Don't have one? Get it here.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1995/

So would it be safe to replace the oxygen sensor for that side?
A few weeks ago I had a constant code for that right O2 sensor, but it disappeared for the last two weeks.
Could it still be bad , not cause a code and my drop of 6 or more mpg?

An O2 sensor will hardly affect performance. Your problem is most likely the P0170 code with some help from the P0400 code.

When you have a fuel injector problem, this can cause an erroneous O2 sensor code as the air/fuel mixture the engine is getting is not correct. A fuel injector problem will have a dramatic effect on mpg. There may or may not be anything wrong with the O2 sensor.

Fix the P0170 problem first.

99 maxima issue - car starts without issue in the morning or after an hour or so of no driving when engine cools down. But after driving for 20 mins or more and turning-off engine, if I try to start within 1/2 hr of turning off engine and engine is still hot, I have to crank it 3 or 4 times to get it to start and it jerks before it starts and barely manages to start. This happens especially during hot weather (live in TX).

The bigger issue which happened 2 times after intermittent driving scenario mentioned above - the starter just keeps running without turning over motor (hear whirring sound of starter) and runs even after key is removed, will only stop after battery is unhooked.

I just changed the starter 2 weeks ago at Sears, as starter was not working earlier and had to be replaced. I have had this issue of "starter keeps running with motor not turning over and keeps going after key is removed" only since the starter was replaced ... wondering if Sears did not install the starter properly. I took it back to Sears first time had the "starter keeps running" issue, they took it in said something was not tightened and seemed to work fine once I got it back. Also SES light is on now, Sears checked the code and said it was P0325 and P1130.

I had same "starter keeps running" issue again today, not sure whether to take it back to Sears or if anyone has come across a similar problem.

Could not find solution searching the forum.

Help!!

Hello all,
I have a 97 Maxima that I recently changed out the climate control for. The lights in it did not work. So when I got a replacement from the junk yard it had the same problem. Kind of odd, so I then ordered the replacement LED bulbs for it. These didn't work either. I even turned the LEDs around the other direction just to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I have also checked the fuses under the dash. At this point, I think there is no juice getting to the lights. I have checked to make sure all my plugs were connected still nothing. Is there something that I am missing here?

Sounds like the planetary gearset in the starter is not lubricated but more importantly the solenoid is maintaining electrical contact when it shouldn't.

Go fight it out with them, you got a junk starter. There are only 2 bolts holding the starter in, one would have to be awfully stupid to install it wrong, if it is even possible.

If you have any dash lights at all, the fuse is good. I doubt that it is the brightness control if the lights for the gauges work.

Maybe the ground for the control unit has somehow been lost. The only other thing to do is check the pin in the wire harness and see if 12 volts is present. The dash light wire is a blue/yellow stripe wire. It is in one of the corners of the connector if you have manual controls or it is in the center on the lock clip side if you have auto climate control.

Thanks Dennis. Is solenoid part of Starter assembly so replaced along with Starter (you can see I am a noob)? So the major issue is related to Starter Assembly and install it appears. Any ideas why it happens only when engine is hot and not during cold start.

Yes, the solenoid is part of a complete starter assembly. Why it happens is something I can only guess at. I think that when the engine/starter is hot, the heat causes something to expand and then you have a sticking, binding situation.

If you want to see a photo of a starter (or anything else), go to an auto parts store website and look up the part.

Sears replaced the starter, no questions, as it was only 2 weeks back, seems to work fine for now. But now the Radiator cooling fan turns on when I turn the key, before cranking the engine, and is running constantly. I could not hear it outside at Sears but hear it when I turn key in the garage. It was the same mechanic who installed starter the first time .. not sure, he seems screw-up something or the other during the install . Appreciate if there is a quick way to fix this issue so I can avoid taking it back.

It's good that they swapped the starter with out any hassle.

But not so great on the radiator fans. Thinking of what someone could do while working on the starter, all that comes to me is the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor). It is sort of in the vicinity when doing the starter. The guy may have knocked the connector off, broken the wire off or broken the sensor.

To locate the ECTS, start at the upper radiator hose. Follow the hose back to where it connects on the engine. Then about 2 inches after the end of the hose, you will see 2 sensors sticking up, one behind the other. The ECTS is the 2nd one after the end of the hose and has (or should have) 2 wires plugged into it. The 1st sensor has only 1 wire plugged into it (this one runs the temperature gauge in the dash).

Strangely, the fan issue disappeared ... its likely to show-up again and will follow your instructions. However I looked for hose coming out of the top of the radiator it appears to be on the other side of engine, and following it leads to other side of engine opposite to the the starter location ... maybe I'm looking at the wrong hose. BTW Mamixas (and Nissans) seem to have issues in high outside temps, probably related to wiring and sensors. One of the posts mentioned only fix for high outside temps and hot engine related starting/other issues was changing the main computer (ECU), which is $300. I got 182K on mine, so not ready to plunk down that much unless I need it!

1 - You somehow crossed over to something else. The upper radiator hose (and there is only one of them) is on the top corner of the radiator, driver's side. The hose comes out of the radiator towards the rear of the car and angles down and towards the passenger side a few inches to where it connects to the engine on the driver's side. Maybe you lost track of it because it is under the air intake scoop?

2 - It's 105 degrees today here in Texas. If heat was going to be an issue for starting the car, we would be pedestrians. I am curious as to where you are getting your information from.

On 2 - I read it on one of Nissan forums, I tried looking it up again but could not locate the post. I agree the hot temperature issue on its own may not be problem but from what I remember the reason mentioned was some of the solder or connections on the PCB expand in the heat as they get older to create breaks. Well I'm just quoting someone else so could be totally off the mark.

Bad solder connections are referred to as "cold solder" connections. The true cause of them is improper soldering when the PCB was made. It is correct that the failure is caused by heat, but not the ambient temperature. A bad connection has resistance to electrical current flowing and electrical current flowing through resistance creates heat.

This guy needs help:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-question.html

I know there's already a thread for this but it seems to be closed so I was wondering does anyone know of a maxima with dual exhaust and flowmasters? I was thinking of going down from the headers to highflow cats then an x pipe then flowmasters coming out the sides behind the back doors. Probly a stupid idea but I have never messed with exhaust before on a import.

I say no need. Just get a mandrel bent 3" exhaust with a high flow cat and good resonator and call it a day.
Muffler is optional IMO if you have a large resonator in there.

I also highly recommend a y-pipe if your fed spec, that deletes the two cats on it.
Great gains to be had with all the above.

Great site here:
http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com...ima/Categories

I need some brake recommendations, Since my brakes decided that Friday the 13th would be the day they start sounding like metal on metal grinding. I'm looking for nothing extreme, just something for everyday use

I found this kit, seems like a decent deal, has anybody tried it?

Noob here. I believe this is the right place, but please forgive me if it isn't. I have done countless search for an answer to my problem.

Problem: Front right side. Loud rubbing noise when driving. Noise all but disappears when I give it gas. As soon as I let off the gas the sound comes back. Doesn't matter if it straight or turning. Same at fast or slow speeds, although it seems more prominate at slower speeds (when I'm not giving it gas). Gives more of a grinding sound when turning, the same in either direction.

This started when I changed my brake pads (both front, brand new). I noticed my rotors where looking worn, so I replaced them (both front, brand new). Thought the caliper was sticking so I replace the right front one (brand new). Checked the axel nut, nothing wrong and still tight.

I am frustrated and don't want to put it in the shop. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

Does it sound like a metal on metal grinding, like the dust shield is touching the rotor?

I've seen this a few times with wheel bearings that will show no play or typical signs of failure, only the metal grinding noise that goes away on accel.

In every case I've had this happen, the inner race spun on the hub, and the hub was damaged enough to warrant replacement.

Wheel bearings was my first thought, but when I jacked it up everything seemed good. Dust shield is not rubbing. This all didn't start until after I changed my brake pads, smh.

Another thing, it stops the noise when I turn the wheel 1-2 o'clock while driving. Doesn't matter on the speed.

Not really new but don't feel like starting a new thread. I'm getting a clunk up front. When I go from a stop, it does it and when I hit the brakes, usually once for left and right. Just replaced both lower control arms. Couldn't find anything exactly related to the problemm in search.

Hi I hope it is okay to post this here. Im looking at buying this maxima and wanted to get some opinions on whether or not it is a good value. The guy said its not running and needs to be towed because the ignition coils and spark plugs need to be replaced. Thanks in advance!

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/4084419354.html

While the car doesn't run, you should... far, far, away from that thing.

If you bought all 6 ignition coils and plugs from Nissan (which would be best), you are looking at maybe $700.

If that's all it took to get that car running, why isn't the owner spending that relatively small amount? I'll tell you why - because there are bigger problems, much more expensive problems.

Plus he says the registration won't expire until Feb 2015. Texas registration is for one year. Feb 2015 is almost 1 1/2 years from now. What's up with that?

Not to mention it has a salvage title.