Hi, I have 1997 se 5spd. I bought it this summer and it has a couple things wrong with it. First it has a powersteering fluid leak somewhere and I have checked the lines everywhere they go and cannot find out where its leaking. Is there a common place for it to leak at?

Also when braking there is a bad grinding that is fealt in the pedal and can be heard. I have checked all 4 pads and they all have little to no wear. Could the rotors be warped? I cant tell by spinnng the rotors and all 4 brakes drag quite a bit on the rotor. They do not drag while driving though.

One last quesion. I believe I have a bad knock sensor because I checked the code and I get a 0304. I wont be able to afford to get a new one until after christmas as I also have to replace at least one of the axles due to a torn boot. Does it do any good to run premium 91 octane when the knock sensor is bad or can I just use regular 87 as the timing isnt being advanced anyway?

Thanks in advance

 

87 will do fine until you replace the KS

 

For the powersteering leak, look at the joints between the ps cooler line, ps reservoir, and ps pump. My stock hose connections started to leak because the rubber just squished under the wire clamps with age. I repositioned the wire clamps and the problem was solved. (At least for a few more years)

Dave

 

First – I am not a Maxima owner – my brother is. I am, however, the one of the two of us that is mechanically and I happen to be out at his home for Thanksgiving (600miles from my home/tools). Last night on the way to work my brother’s car died while driving and is on the side of the road waiting for us to get out and diagnose.

I am currently digging through stickies (first) and then other threads looking for relevant info but I am in a pretty ugly time crunch (supposed to rain/snow tomorrow) and we will be working on it outdoors..

Here is what I know…

* It is a ’97 Maxima – I THINK the GXE model – it is a pretty basic version with auto..
* Mileage – about 150K
* Battery – New – it died a month or so ago and was replaced
* The battery cables are NOT in great shape – (or so I was told when I asked).
* Fuel – Gauge reads ¼ tank and has never been known to be inaccurate.
* The car runs well and has been pretty problem free until this point (they are not the origional owners but have had it for a couple of years).
* Symptom – Car died while running and apparently the steering locked when this happened (????). He managed to get it to the side of the road. He tried to restart and it started for a second and died again. It cranks strongly but does not restart. He left the car and got a ride to work – we are going to try to fix it this afternoon (roadside if possible – towed home if not)
* The car is on the side of a country road about 20 miles from anywhere, my brother has basic mechanical tools (wrenches/ratchet/sockets) but nothing Nissan specific. The “have it towed to a shop and fixed” option is basically off the table for financial reasons.

I do not have a code reader here and would prefer not to buy another one.

I am thinking…

* Fuel or electrical issue. The fact that it restarted for a second tells me that there is not a total loss of spark (or at least not a constant loss).

Troubleshooting plan

1) Check fuel level manually listen for slosh/tap tank from under the car.
2) I plan to check basic wiring confirming good ground from the battery and trying to determine whether there are separate feeds from the batter to the starter and the rest of the electrical system. If there is a ton of corrosion I'll clean the connectors and run down the the option of an intermittent open at the battery connector that could impact the rest of the electrics without impacting the starting function.
3) I plan to check spark at the plug with a spare plug grounded to the chassis - any issue doing this with these cars?
4) If spark is good and engine electrics are solid then start looking at fuel system.
5) Listen carefully for fuel pump activation on key on (listening for the sound of a spinning pump in the tank). This is an area where any Nissan specific info re. testing the pump would be great…
6) If the pump appears good - look into the regulator (this is a place where I have not clue re the Maxima – one of the points that am researching prior to going out to the car).
7) If neither the pump or regulator appears to be at fault replace the fuel filter – retry starting.

I am in the middle of reading through stickies and searching the forums but would really appreciate any Maxima specific troubleshooting advice.

 

bignateaz


My guess is that he noticed a loss of power steering when the car's power turned off. If the car tries to start, the battery nor it's GND/PWR terminals are not at fault, BUT it couldn't hurt to clean them. Remember to also clean the smeller GND's on the IM just on top of the fuel rail.

Also, the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) could also be at fault, as well as the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, and quite possibly the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS). While you are in the stickys, one key item to note is that you do not need an OBDII reader to read the ECU codes, it can be done easily and fast. With the above sensors mentioned, check the codes to see if any one of those sensors in question comes up.

Nothing really Maxima specific. General car principle here. Nissan's fuel pump emits a priming sound (small buzz when key is turned to ON position). Check the fuel pump fuse. I don't think it's fuel hardware related.

Starters are known to go out on these cars, but when they are tapped w/ a mallet (tool wrapped in a rag) it may 'wake it up'.

I too have had to leave my car overnight in 2 different places due to battery terminals. Both times it was the same thing, really beat up Positive Battery Terminal, BUT, my car was essentially completely dead, unlike yours.

 

Thanks NmexMAX....

I got out to the car yesterday afternoon and the problems appear to be electrical. You were correct on the "steering lock" guess - it was the loss of power steering. The positive terminal was almost completly corroded away and the loop of metal is corroded to the point that one end of the strap had corroded through and it was basically just resting on the post. After cleaning terminal and reattaching it to the battery the car started and ran for a few miles but then died again and confirmed that we were dealing with an electrical issue - gauges flickered tach bounced etc... While driving the batt light never went out. The corrosion extends into the wiring unions beteen the main lead and the connections to the alternator and other electrics and I suspect that at best the battery is not geting suficient charge because of the degraded condition of these connections - at worst we have a alternator giong as well.

I bought a tiny set of vice grips and clamped the remains of the terminal to the battery post - jump started the car and started to drive again but it died a few minutes later. The battery light remains on in the car (untill the car dies the electrical death ). By this time we were about 10 - 15 minutes from his house so we charged the battery in the maxima for a couple of minutes (by jumper cable) and then swapped batteries between the two cars and were able to get them both home this way. Hopefully the local Nissan dealer (small town) will have the terminal/cable assembly and swapping this out will resolve the issue. If they don't have one I'll be investing in a new butane tourch and a bunch of heat shrink and solder.

 

Do not go to your dealer for the cable assembly, especially the starter/positive cable. It can be fabbed using cheap autozone terminals, it looks scary, but it's really not that hard. I replaced mine in a casino parking lot for 7$.

Also, it also sounds as if your alternator is out, since your battery light is lit.

 

Thanks again NmexMAX…

The harness was out of stock at every dealer within about 100 miles so I picked up the stuff from AutoZone and was going to do some digging to be sure there were no resistors etc in the corroded mess that is the current factory cable end. Thanks for saving me the digging. I will be fabbing up the new cable end tomorrow.

I had also picked up an alternator “just in case” ‘cause we’ll be finishing the work tomorrow (Thanksgiving Day). I was holding out a little hope that the cause of the batt light was some measure of the battery condition – but wasn’t very optimistic.

 

Need a quick hand. What wires are what in the trunk for the tails? I need to know the regular power wire and the brake wire. I'm looking at the schematic but it doesn't mean much to me. Thanks.

 

hi

since im a newbie i can't search, so my problem is that my 96 maxima has a noise from the engine when starting the car it sounds like the belts are dry then it goes away are this the belts or something else???
thanks

 

yea its probably either the belts, just need to re-tighten them
or its coming from the starter, some of the grease gets dried out in it and just needs to be redone. write up here

 

looking at page EL-50 in the FSM it looks like the red/blue wire going to the tail lights is for the running lamps and red/green is the stop lamps. then the black ones are grounds as usual.

i think thats what your asking...

 

yes it was thanks. I couldn't figure out color combos for some reason...

 

Hi,

I was wondering if some one could point me to a thread(s) about cleaning the coil packs? I came across a thread mentioning one, but the URL is bad.

As well, will 96 coil pack work on my 99? Thinking of getting some spares after all the reading on how good the 99 coil packs are.

Also have to say awesome site. Already helped me clear out a flashing air bag light.

 

OK, solved my problem from before with the odd high beams. I forgot the fuses under the hood. Anyway, I had tried the fog light rewire where you run 12v from the corner light to trip the fog light relay. However, I cut the wire I had run once I found the blown fuse because, if I turn the driving lights only, not only the fog lights fire up, but also the left-hand headlight. If the wire is cut, the lights work normally. Anyone know what I've screwed up?

 

OK, need help again. my center bezel, like my AC/HEating unit the top few buttons dont light up any more, and ive looked thru my owners manual and my handbook and cant figure out what fuse this would be, or why only half of the buttons would light up now. Can any one help me out?

 

the bulbs inside are blown. its not a fuse.

 

how do i get to them/change them/find them...etc

 

Anyone know what year and model that would have the same wiper arms as a 99 maxima? Ours are in pretty bad shape and would like put on some good ones.

 

Ok...this is my first post but I have read a lot here and gathered some great information.

I was driving home last night and a dog ran out in front of me. I locked em up and swerved to miss the dog...and hit the curb. I didn't think I did any damage until I got out to look. My driver side front tire was turned in the wrong direction and did not respond tot he sterring wheel at all. Now, I am somewhat mechanically inclined but have never really worked on this car before. Most of my work is on my 88 Isuzu Trooper. I think I snapped something off of my lower a arm?? I'm not sure. I have attached a web link with pictures of it.. The best I could do. i would love to try to do this myself...but I fear it is pretty serious. Hopefully not too expensive?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

PS they are the first 9 pictures.


http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...hrisg35_album/

Chris

 

I have a 96 SE and what's happening with my ride is that it shakes when stopped at lights or intersections while in gear. I've read and re-read posts about this type of issue but I am seeing slightly different symptoms. The shaking only occurs after the car has been driven for a while, say about two or three 20 minute trips and moreover, it does not happen all the times I am stopped, though it seems to be getting more frequent. I've had a tune-up done, including a new air filter and plugs. I've thought about engine/tranny mounts but if these were the problem then the shaking would be consistent. I had a mechanic look at it and I was told it is the EGR system's BPT valve which is dead. When the car is shaking, you can see the tach move up and down btwn 700 and 400 rpm, and there is a "chub-chub" sound from the exhaust. I'm looking for a second opinion on this before I empty my wallet.

 

Last time I changed the pads on my 99 Maxima I used the red anti-squeal compound and now that I am trying to replace the pads again, I cant rotate the caliper up off the pads. It seems to be stuck and wont budge. I haven't tried getting rough with it but wanted to ask if this has happened to anyone else here before and if there is a good way to unstick it? I have also tried getting a thin metal scraper between the outside pad and caliper to wedge it apart but no luck. Any ideas?

Thank you.

 

if you look in the GI section there is a list of the wire colors. not all the letters are the first letter of the color.

 

i'm pretty sure they are all the same amongst 4th gens. you could always pull them off and throw a new coat of paint on them.

 

yep, your control arm is broken off. there may also be a problem with your steering rack and tierods from hitting the curb

on a side note your axle boot is totally ripped open, you'll want to fix that too.

 

some other things to look at are the IACV valve, could use a good cleaning, there is a how to in the stickies. also check to see if your throwing any codes, theres also a sticky for this. you can clean and replace the valve yourself too, i think it is also in the stickies

 

yeah i didn't realize that before. Thanks for the help.

 

look up the LED Guage "how-to" that will tell youhow to open it up. but in short. take it out, remove mini-phillips screws and the face should come off. I think the only place to get the bulbs are Radio Shack.

 

Last Post - Spliced the positives together - replaced the alternator - all is good.... Thanks again...

 

Hey guys was wondering if I could get some advice. I have a base five speed 98 Max with about 180,000 miles. A couple things wrong with it though. First, the lower radiator support is completely rusted and needs to be replaced, and the passenger side axle boot is torn, so the garage said it needed replacement. And about a week ago, some idiot slammed into my car while it was parked, so it has a nice big dent in the driver's side fender, nothing structural though. So first of all I was wondering how much it would be for a fender replacement. I was also thinking about getting a set of Eibach's and KYB's, but I don't know if it would be worth since it needs about a $1000 worth of work already and the fact that the car is nearing the 200,000 mile mark. Advice and comments much appreciated, thanks

 

I was looking at fender replacement as well due to some rust. I saw them on ebay. About 20$ for the fender and 70 for shipping. No idea on the quality...

 

I'd say save that car for a spare, and get a better one

 

save the 1000 for repairs and the 800 for lowering and start a used maxima fund.

 

quality is perfectly fine

 

I have a problem with my alarm system. It's the stock one, but it seems to be not functioning correctly. The only way I can get it to go off is to open the trunk with my key before unlocking the car door.

What could cause this? (I've never dealt with a car alarm before) Why would it go off when opening the trunk?

Thanks!

 

Lock yourself in the car, wait a full minute, try to open the door, if it 'sounds' (confusing when you use the words 'go off') than all is good and don't open your trunk until you unlock the doors, the dis-arm sensor on the trunk key might not be functioning, if they even have one, I've NEVER seen a 4th gen or I30 that the keyhole worked on!!

 

My trunk keyhole works fine...I guess I am the only one

 

yea mine works too.

 

can anyone tell me how to post pics of my car on here, im new to maxima.org and i am already a member?

 

you need to upload pictures youve taken onto a site like www.photobucket.com and then copy the image code onto the posting area like so.

[IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff275/HERBKILLS/DSC00315a.jpg[/IMG this is what it should look like, before i add the ]


then i add the ] and its