The sounds like the starter. My car did the same thing as for as that goes. You also need to change the MAF Sensor, this is more than likely the cause of the stalling.

 

Has any had a transgo shift kit installed? If so what is best one to get and is it worth it?

 

hi just wanna know if the 95-96 hood are the same has the 97-99? i dont know if i am crazy but i see a little difference i got a accident with my 97 se max and i found a hood from the jurkward 96 max just want to be sure before buying thanx

 

yup, they are the same

 

Dont Bother with many electronic transmission mods, for our tranny they are not worth it unless you swear by auto and are into racing. I myself have an auto and if you do not treat it well or do the propor prep work (good fluid, tranny cooler) its easy to mess them up.

Some good mods to start out with are a valve body upgrade, high stall tourque converter. just search the forums about these, they are fairly in depth installs how ever.

So far a late discover has been made about so called "shift kits" called the suprastick v4, jimes has installed one and has a thread about it, it looks like a good unit with just about every tuning feature avaliable for auto trannies.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=suprastick

Hope this spreads some light on auto tranny modding

 

Hi all!

I have a 00 Nissan Cefiro(which is basically the same as 99 Max but with 2.0L VQ20 engine) and my relative gave it to me.

As I drive this car a bit, I noticed a great deal of power loss. It hesitate to push and can't accelerate well, it's really weak at uphill slope, engine rattles/jerks at idle or at real slow speed (with steady RPM though), 1st to 2nd shifting is very jerky - first it goes to upto 4k rpm then shifts to 2nd with shock, and fuel consumption suffered to 2/3 compared to normal.

I did a lot of searches, and what I did so far is..

1) Changed spark plugs.
2) Cleaned MAF
3) Changed extremely dirty air filter


When I first cleaned the MAF, the rattling engine problem was gone and the shifting became smooth as normal, but next morning the problem came back. then I replaced super dirty air filter and cleaned MAF again, first it was okay but next day again the problem came back.

Changing spark plugs did not help any even though the old plugs were really bad.

Now I am going to check the following, but am I going in right direction and is there anything else I should know regarding my problem?

1) Knock Sensor
2) Ignition Coil
3) Transmission Oil

 

Sounds like a MAF problem. Any SES lights?

 

Here's a n00blet question that I have.

I've been looking into replacing my suspension w/ aftermarket (H&Rs and Illuminas to be specific) and read in the stickies all the different parts that you need to do the swap.

My question is: do most people just reuse what's on their stock setup in terms of hardware? Or do you usually buy all new parts...I ask because it's a big difference in price.

Also, if I bought the illuminas, do they come with the needed hardware?

 

Exactly what hardware are you referring to?

 

Specifically:
For the front:
Spacer
Strut mounting insulator
Strut mounting insulator bracket
Strut mounting bearing
Upper spring seat
Upper spring rubber seat
Bound bumper
Polyutherane tube

For the rear:
Shock absorber cap
washer
Bushing
Shock absorber mounting seal
Shock absorber mounting bracket
Upper spring seat rubber
Bushing
Bound Bumper cover
Bound bumper

And of course the springs and struts/shocks

 

Hi Folks,

My car is acting like the clutch is going bad -- hard getting it moving, when shifting gears then giving it gas it just rev's real high and so on. The thing is, I had a new clutch installed about a year ago, including re-surfaced flywheel. It was great up until about a month ago; now it's barely driveable.

I didn't find any specific information on this problem when I searched the forums. That said, I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed so I hope I searched correctly.

Which leads to the second part of my question. Can anyone recommend to me a good, reliable, trustworthy Nissan mechanic in the York/Lancaster/Harrisburg Pennsylvania area (zip 17404; 30 mile radius if possible). I obviouslly have trust issues - once bitten twice shy...

I greatly appreciate your help,

Dan

 

All of the struts I've purchased already had all of that, minus the strut mount bearing, which is like 35$ and easy to install once you're in there replacing the strut.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=11

 

I'm hoping for some insight.

I've read all of the threads about alternator fires in 4th gens.

I have a '99 ES, 160km's, needs rust repair around the wheel wells, and I was not planning to spend much $ aside from that but...

My story goes about about the same as the rest. The only thing is that after my fire (which was put out almost immediately) I had a new alternator put in ($350 + labour). When I went to leave the shop I noticed my radio did'nt work. They checked the fuses etc. and say I need a whole new stereo and alot of electrical work. The car drove just fine so I left and thought I would look into options (insurance claim for fire), however, that night I drove a friend home and noticed that my headlights were'nt much brighter than my day lights?

My initial fear was that they installed a sub par alternator that wasn't powering my car so I brought it back. They say that the alternator is pumping out enough energy and that it is an electrical issue.

I found out that I do have grounds for an insurance claim and am holding off on any work until the insurance company sends an estimator.

If I get my claim I am not too woried about extensive work, but if I have to pay I would be concerned that I am being lied to.

Is there possibility that the alternator fire could cause this kind of damage?

 

Great, that's what I wanted to hear

 

hey everyone

there arent hardly any shops by me that sell a lot for cars, in general, so i was wondering OTHER THAN EBAY, where should I buy an AEM Short Ram (Doesn't have to be AEM, but I'd prefer it!) for my 96 SE?

Also, other than EBAY, where would I go online to buy Head/Tail lights at a reasonable price?

I just got my maxima in January, and now that summer is around I'm looking to make my maxima a little more tricked out with the small 400 a month or so that I make

Thanks !

 

check to make sure they installed all the grounds correctly....That and make sure that the main power wire off of the battery isnt damaged in anyway...

 

honestly your best bet for these things is the for sale section on here.
online vendors tend to be overpriced.

ebay is hit or miss - sometimes u get a great deal, othertimes you get garbage craftsmanship or even just the wrong item. then returning them is a *****.

 

go ebay for the things you listed. a short ram intake is a 6 inch tube with 3 nipples whether you buy the 20 dollar ebay one or the 80 dollar aem one. the aem is probably better quality but seriously its just a pipe and the ebay quality is good enough for 95% of the orgers here.
for the taillights definately go ebay...why? cause it is the exact same light that all the online vendors sale, but for a third of the price. my opinion tho, skip out on the taillights, they are rice.

 

Well, for something like a Short Ram, i'd rather buy it from a dealer, because all I've heard about ebay CAI's and Short rams is that they come with crappy clamps and stuff and fall off, lol

and, personally I think the tail lights are okay but, if i get head lights, i'll do tails just to match =/

but i still have no clue where to find a short ram for this maxima, i cant find them from dealers anywhere so far.

 

Noob Question Here

I just got my sisters 97 maxima & had a question about swapping the stock headunit. I tried searching but only found info on swapping cd player to cd player.

My question is: It's a stock tape deck non bose. Can i swap in a non bose cd/tape double din unit? Are the connectors the same?

I would like to fill in the space with the stock unit, if not ill get an aftermarket one.

 

im pretty positive the connectors are the same

 

Thanks for the reply.

How would I go about checking the installation of the grounds?

 

Thanks. I checked pictures i found of the back of the units on ebay & they have the same black conectors & antenna of course, but the double din cd player has 2 white connectors on the HU used on 97-01 nissans & the 95-99 maxima double din has one white connector.

What are these white connectors for?

Here is a pic of the back of the tape deck vs cd/tape deck

(tape deck i have)




Double din cd/tape non bose

 

I'm trying to get my security system to work, I think I've found the hood switch plug (no switch, so I jumpered it). My security light never goes solid when locked w/ the key. My ?? is, does this system monitor the trunk switch that turns the trunk light on and off, or is there another sw. somewhere?? (All of my door switches work the interior light.)

 

Okay ... question

The other day I told my dad I wanted the intake, so we went out to get just like the straight pipe and an air filter, and some clamps to basically just setup our own.

We got em from autozone

so, will this work, or not, because he seems to think we have to just go with the whole CAI kit, because with this setup we were gonna try we have no where to put the mass airflow sensor?

So, is there a way we could do this and where would we/how would we put the sensor where it will work?

i know nothing about any of this, i'm just a middle man kind of. even though its my car lol

 

Alright I installed my Pioneer Avic D3 using the Metra bose RCA integration. I grounded Everything to the top bolt on the bracket that holds the HU. When I turn off my car, like from ACC to off, I get a medium POP from all my speakers. I also noticed a very low whine when im gunning it and have the volume low/off. Where did I go wrong?

 

the white connectors, well at least one of them is for an external cd changer. notice on the cd button it says chg.
you don't need to worry about hooking it up, it will work without a cd changer.

 

Neither of my radiator fans ever turns on even with the a/c on full blast. All relays and fuses are working. Would the fact that the fans do not turn on with the a/c rule out the temperature sensor as a problem? meaning i have to buy 2 fan motors.

(didn't notice any problems until i was idling at a sonic when suddenly my radiator exploded shooting steam and antifreeze everywhere. (forgot to keep an eye on the temp guage) Nice embarassing experience. Still got my reeses blast though.) New radiator, thermostat, coolant obviously. 98 gxe

 

Add new fan motors to that list, if the fans themselves weren't damaged too.

That'll work if you have a MAF adapter.

 

I need to replace the o2 sensor on the passenger side closest to the dash, is there a specific name for that sensor? is it just a rear o2 sensor? Does anyone suggest which one I should get from this site?

 

You have to realize that those sensors in that link do not have connectors on them, and you would need to wire in your own. Not difficult, but I was not suer if you knew that or now.

Depending on your situation, you can get those and wire them in yourself, or spend more and buy OEM from Nissan.

 

oh, ok. Yea I wasnt sure if they had the connectors or not. Would it be better to get them w/o connectors and wire them myself or just go with buying some connectors?

Also, how hard is it to get at the rear o2 sensor I was talking about?

 

First off, what code are you getting that you think you need to repalce the sensor?

 

IMO, it's worth the extra money to buy OEM style ones with the harness connectors already attached.

All O2 sensors, including the rears, are easy to get to and replace.

 

Hey the doesn't work " Q: Why can't I start a new thread? " link doesn't work...

 

Anybody????

 

got new fan assembly at a junkyard for only 100 bucks and they work just fine now. Now onto the next problem. When my car hasn't been on for over an hour it will die right after it starts...i have to press the gas for it to start then it hesitates at low rpm's before leveling off. I have changed the fuel filter.
98 gxe

 

I am only recently beginning to modify my 4th gen Max and am wondering is it feasibly to swap the 90mm throttle body from the VH45DE motor to my VQ30DE and if so is the swap a recommended upgrade?

Thanks

JB, 95 SE

 

it is probably possible, you would need to make an adapter plate, and i'm not sure if the VHs are drive-by-wire or cable actuated, you may have to do a little conversion like people do with the VQ35DE throttle bodies, check the all motor section in the 3.5 swap stickies for that info.