I believe the O2 sensor connectors are all weatherpack style connectors (rather to say, they're designed for external use).

You can use anti-seize, yes. Just be careful to not get it on the tip of the O2 sensor.

 

I recently purchased a 95 Maxima MT. with a few minor issues that I try to fix little by little. I replaced an o2 and the knock sensor. Now the check engine codes are gone.

The next thing I plan to fix is the electrical system. The biggest issue I have now is that some days (maybe twice in a month) the car would shut off (Engine dies, no power, no radio, clock resets) then after 30 seconds or so the power will come back by itself (Some kind of breaker??). Usually happens when I'm stopped or braking to a stop.

I think the bad battery cables might be the cause of all my problems. (But it seems weird that power comes back by itself so I am not sure if it's that)

Either way I am still planning to replace my battery cables/connectors because they seem to be in a pretty bad condition(Previous owner seems to have done some patch up job on it). But i am not sure what are the parts I need. There's a piece of metal with a red connector attached to the positive terminal connector. What does the original terminal connector looks like? What parts do I need and where can I get them? The only part I can find is a simple cable with a terminal.

He's some pictures of how my current cables look like :




Thanks

 

I have a 99 SE-L with power mirrors,but NOT heated. My passenger mirror has a piece of the base broken off due to a hail storm 2 1/2 yrs. ago. I am interested in replacing them both (so they match) with power/heated mirrors. I searched the site but,did not find any posts pertaining to this specific topic. I am wanting to find out 2 things. (1) Is it as simple as bolting them on and hooking the HEAT wire into the Rear Deffoger switch. (2) What years will fit. Will later year mirrors fit the 99. I have seen some that look like they will bolt up the same but I can't find anything to confirm or deny it.

Thanks in Advance.

 

95-99 mirrors are the same however colors may vary between years. heated mirrors came with the winted/cold weather package but you can also get replacements from places like ebay. idk but assume that the car is already pre-wired for them - might just need to put a fuse in the fuse box.

 

Sorry to butt in here, but I've been searching and can't seem to find the info I need. I just bought a 97 SE and I need a drivers front wheel bearing. I'm probably going to remove the knuckle and take it somewhere to get the bearing and hub pressed in and out. I'm looking at parts right now and what I am confused about is how many seals do you need, one or two per side?

On a lighter note, I want to thank the Admins and the Mods for keeping this site going. This is my third Nissan (fourth is you count the Datsun 720 ('82), along with the 2 Hardbodies('86.5, '90) and now my current car), and these forums are invaluable when it comes to maintaining or modifying your car.

 

I want to prepare the 95 max im getting for a long term maintenance stretch.
Basically, I believe the economy is fixing to tank.

The guy did maintenance on the car, so the major stuff was prolly done(regular oil changes, plugs, etc).

What I want to do is get an exact understanding of what fluids need to be replaced and with what liquid.

Ive probed the forums much in search of these answers and now I have some questions.

I don't have a vast amount of money, funds are limited, so I have to be very picky.

Im choosing Mobil 1 synthetic over Amsoil simply because of cost.
The car has 112k on it, valve covers have oil residue.







I saw discussions on the 0w30 and extended life mobil 1. I wanted to know about the High Mileage(75k+) Mobil 1 synthetic and opinions on it.

As for the PS fluid, it looks dark, so Im gonna flush the system. I might have to break down and use Amsoil, because Mobil 1 ATF is just as expensive. Opinions are appreciated here as well.

Tranny will get Amsoil possibly, but Im gonna hate running 6-9 quarts at $10 a pop thru it. Suggestions?

Brake Fluid might get Amsoil, but I might stay with a premium dot 4(or should it be dot 3?)

Would a 300zx fuel filter be better? And if it is, what is the exact part#?

Ive used techron and seafoam as the fuel system cleaner for years, but Ive read Lucas FI cleaner is the best? Opinions here please.

PCV valve for sure, and if any type is best?

Anything Im missing?

 

I'm doing the same sort of stuff right now.

I couldn't tell you all the different fluid types off the top of my head.

Don't forget the Air filter, it's cheap and easy.

I'm also curious about the 300zx fuel filter, I've heard it's better, lasts longer, and isn't much more expensive. What 'mod' is required to put it on (because I know it is bigger)?

Also, be careful with the PCV I managed to snap one in half trying to put it in.

 

I have a 96' Maxima with 150k, and my steering wheel is very loose, when I reach speeds higher than 65mph it starts to shake really bad. I have had my tires balanced, front aligned, new CV joints and replaced both front axels, would the ball joint and struts be my next hope, and what can i do to tighten up that loose steering?

 

Did you replace your tie rods? 150k is a lot of miles for stock parts like that. They wear out eventually. Heims joints are where its at, though you don't see that too often except on purpose built cars at the track.

So, I'm still wondering about those front wheel bearing seals. Are there one or two per corner? The FSM would lead me to believe two, but the people at the parts store say one. My better judgement tells me to trust the FSM, but can I get some input from someone who has done this repair?

 

Im looking to do a projector/HID retro fit somewhat soon, and i am wondering what the best set of projectors and the best set of HIDs would be?

Thanks much!

 

i have a crankshaft position sensor (position) code from my check engine light, i was wondering if just replacing the sensor would fix the problem or if the "(position)" has something to do with and and how i can fix it?

 

I would consult the FSM (link stollen from PMOHR's sig)
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...niti-fsms.html

but if your sure that the sensor is plugged in and all the wires have good connections, then it may be dead. i know that a few of us on here have them for sale also. (i have some from a 96, and i know that PMOHR has a few too). But check out the FSM first and check the wires out.

 

its a little hard to see the neg cable in that pick. I have identical problem. issue resolved my cleaning the neg cable, post, etc with a wire brush. hasnt happened since. while im not at all sure why having a dirty cable should cause that problem, i know that is was causing some kinda short.

also id look at the rig you have for your pos side. while it look s like is should work, you need to be sure that you have a lot of good surface connection on that plate. if its bridging (as in it sitting on 2 points with a gap under it) and not flush aginst the terminal, you could be having problems keeping a good enough connection to the battery.

again as far as why? im not sure... safty overide? all i know is that since i cleaned and tightened my connections it hasnt happend since.

 

Do all 99 Maximas have 3 Oxygen Sensors? I am asking because i went to Advance Auto Parts today looking for a Rear Down stream sensor, the guy said i need the California one, because i had 3 sensors. And of course the California one was more expensive ,so i told him ill be back, it was about 90 dollars
Its a Bosch 13278, is this the right one i need for a Down stream o2 sensor?

 

99 CA maxima's have 4 O2 sensors. Two upstream, two downstream.

 

So my maxima has 3, two upstream and one down stream?

 

I would think the problem is on the positive side or the battery. Sounds like something is shorting out, and tripping some sort of breaker or thermal fuse. If the negative terminal was not making good connection to the post, it would only be apparent when starting the car, as the starter would be pulling more amps out of the battery than the loose connection can supply.

one of the positive leads off of the battery has to be touching the metal that is grounded, which almost all of it. Follow the positive wires back to where they go. Make sure that rubbing has not wore away the insulation anywhere.

And while you are at it, I would replace that negative terminal also. I've seen those fail.

EDIT:
I would also think about cutting that red connector off and using ring terminals to one of the bolts that secure the positive wire in the clamp. Not sure if you have enough wire length to make it there though. This would just make the area of uninsulated metal with 12v in it smaller, and I can already see corrosion on the plate that the red connector is plugged into.

 

Quick Q.
I'm changing my spark plugs and searched about iridiums and laser iridiums, but found not much on laser platinums. Are those just as good? I paid about 10 bucks a popfor laser plats, so I wanna make sure if i should just return em and get better ones for the same price.

 

Anyone have a spare 95 FSM they want to part with for some $$$?

I wasn't sure to post this in the classifieds, so I figured it would be safe here.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/general-maxima-discussion/578480-nissan-infiniti-fsms.html

 

Nice to have I suppose, Id like a physical book though.

btw, the cold start timing chain noise on 95's, will it cause chain death if you dont fix it?

 

The ones Nissan ships the car with are the platinums, so that's what I used when I changed mine Saturday. Look at post #2 and #5.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/387204-ngk-spark-plugs-should-i-buy.html

You paid ten bucks a plug cause they last for 60k. I think it's worth it to go with the plugs designed to be used in the engine. Nissan didn't get on Ward's 10 Best Engine's from 1995 to 2001 with crappy engineers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine#VQ30DE

 

hey whats up everyone. im from nycmaximas.org and just made an account here. i been driving my max for about 2 months did a few things to it like the 2k3 tints etc. but i came across these drop springs .--- matrix drop springs 2.25 front, 2.0 rear. what do u guys know about these springs and have u even heard of it before, i know matrix makes other things but not sure about springs. thanks

 

I've been reading up a lot on springs myself, and that sounds like a lot of drop. You'll probably need to buy Koni shortened struts to go along with them. I was thinking about using Tein H Tech springs with Tokico Illumina struts. Modeate drop (I live in PA, lots of potholes), improved handleing and areodynamics. For more suspension info, check the sticky on Suspension and Brakes. Also, use the "Search" function, it's really helpful. Read up a decent amount before you buy anything, modifying your suspension is no trival task. It will totally transform your car, for better or worse.

 

You can just buy a bunch of paper and print it off, but it in a binder, thats what i did.

And for the timing chain noise, i had the same problem. It is not going to be death, but it is annoying. It just a tesnsionor and guide anyway, not too expensive. And not too difficult to fix if you know what you are doing. But again, not death.

 

Sorry for the vague question but I really don't know a thing about car maintenance. In the midst of a snowstorm I was trying to get the car unstuck and was giving it a good bit of gas. My ABS brake light popped on and I have no idea why or where to start looking for the problem. My brakes still work so there's no panic, but I want to make sure everything is working fine there. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

I bought my 99 SE this past summer. Since the cold weather started, i've noticed while driving on the highway/interstate that my temp gauge sometimes doesn't make it above the cold mark. Seems like the colder it is outside the worse it gets. When I get into town at stop lights and such, it reads normal. Could this be my thermostat?

 

Hey everyone.....

I have a 99 SE with 187,000 miles. For some reason, when I pump gas into the tank, the pumping shuts off intermittently. I had a mechanic look at it and he claimed it was the gas tank. So, I got a used gas tank from a salvage yard for $75 and he replaced it since a new one would cost close to $500. He suggested I not replace with a used tank, but buy the new one. Charged me $200 to install used. Did not work. Now I am out $200. I should have listened to the salvage yard owner when he told me that gas tanks usually don't go bad and he thinks it is not the problem and my mechanic doesn't know what he is talking about.....

The car CEL had an OBD Code P1446 which as many of you know is the EVAP CANISTER VENT CONTROL VALVE (CLOSED). After searching this forum and finding out that other members replaced the valve. I had the valve replaced by the dealer yesterday. Had the code reset. The CEL is still off and the code has not returned. It seemed ok when I pumped gas as it was flowing freely only stopping a couple of times. Now, it seems it is progressively getting worse again. This is starting to be a royal pain in my ****..... Starting to get expensive.

Anyone have any idea what is going on? Perhaps it is the actual CHarcoal Cannister? Would a cannister problem throw a code? Maybe charcoal flowing into the new valve?

 

Wouldn't worry about it. It should clear itself after 20 miles or so. Same thing happens when I get dynoed. After a short drive, the light goes out.

 

The ABS computer probably gets confused that you just spun the hell out of your front tires and your rears went nowhere. Thinks there's a fault in the system, and trips the light.

 

Exactly.

 

Is it ok to use Amsoil Power Steering fluid in the PS reservoir or the regular amsoil atf?

I know it seems like a no brainer, but some vehicles are picky about these particular fluids.

 

I put some Mobil1 Synthetic ATF in mine several years ago. It matched the spec stated in the Nissan manual, but it's leaking a little bit through every rubber hose in the power steering system now. If I had to do it again, I would only use the basic Nissan fluid.

While I have no proof that the Mobil1 caused it, or that Amsoil or any other aftermarket fluid could do it, the mess it's made isn't worth it to me.

 

I have had trouble with gas shutting off at the pump on several of my vehicles. It's almost always caused by the flow not going straight down the fill neck and the splashing trips off the overflow switch in the pump. If you haven't already, experiment with different gas pumps and angling the pump differently in the filler neck.

I don't think the CELs are related, unless you're managing to splash excess fuel into the vapor lines.

Dave

 

I would stick with straight dino P/S fluid and nothing synthetic. I believe the synthetic oil molecules are actually smaller than dino oil ones, resulting in the leaks that people talk about when switching to synthetic in their engines. The seals that hold back dino oil, can't hold back synthetic because to the smaller molecule size. It's leaking through the hose because of the pores in the rubber. Small enough to hold back dino oil, but too big to hold back synthetic.

 

When I replace my spark plugs, do I need to adjust the spacing? If so, how much? Thanks.

 

From my understanding you don't gap iridium or platinum plugs, only copper ones.

Search for "spark plug"!

 

Welp, finally bought the 95 max. Nice driving car.

The guy replaced specific miles ago:

starter
bother front axles, but not at the same time
brand new tires
rear brake clean and pads
rear struts

I have noticed a sort of ringing noise at the front left between 1-15 mph. I hope it aint the cv's.

This motor is tight so far, plenty of power and the tranny shifts great, with 112k on the car.

I like it better than my 93 camry v6

Question: Can I use valvoline Mercon/Dextron ATF in the PS?

 

you can but that's pretty old school. most ps fluids have lubricants and cleaners better for the system.

 

ok so I have a question that I can't seem to find a good answer on and hoping sum one might. I had some noise coming from my tranny (throw out bearings) so I got a case of beer and went to work over the weekend. I changed and one of the clips on the bearings were actually broke. So I changed them out put everything together and I still have a little noise but I'm not sure it's from the tranny now. It almost sound like something is rattling around. I have heard from a few people say it could be a gear in the tranny going out, any ideas? I drive it an all is well, the clutch also grabs at the bottom how can I adjust it up higher? Thanks guys!