i doubt you'll get different answers since B_Eaze covered what might be wrong. at 150k your shocks are most likely shot - check them - as well as all the bushings. go to a wheel/tire shop and have them check your front out - they'll probably have to fix quite a few things.

 

can anyone tell me where does the end of this hose go ?
it's just hanging out

thanks

 

I knew I would get on someones nerves! hehe

 

Looks to me like it's just the overflow, but what would i know, i'm just the n00b everyone is picking on.

 

Confirmed! Just went and took a looksie at my 95 and it is just an overflow. However mine has a metal cable tie thingy holding it to the other hose. You could probably just zip tie yours if you are concerned. Look at me go....I'm being helpful already...P.S. thanks for all the warm welcomes to the site.............

 

thanks

 

Connects to the tranny. Just a breather hose. All is normal, nothing to worry about.

 

You're Welcome!

 

You see, it wasn't that hard to contribute something rather than posting crap.

Welcome to the org!!

 

on my car its the same way...its supposed to be not connected...its a breather

 

guys... I can't find the VIN plate on my firewall..... where abouts do I look? I seriously can't see it...

 

How big is your firewall???

Back left top corner

 

How much do motor mounts affect ride quality?

I know that my max needs new mounts and it does not seem to be handling bumps correctly(?) the car does not feel solid when going over bumps it feels like it is jumping around when I hit a bump or pot hole.

I have just replaced the struts and strut mounts(front mounts only) so I dont rule out install error on my part on the struts causing the issue.

Not really sure why I am asking a question that I already no the answer to but is it possible that the motor mounts are causing this or is it the suspension?

 

Thanks for the welcome!

 

when u get on the gas, and off again, do u feel a big jerk?

and another way, wat i did, is just look at them

 

I dont get a big jerk but it does feel like the car does jerk a bit, I am pretty sure I need the mounts though I have been told before that they need replaced.

I am more concerned with the way the care jumps around when I hit a bump or pothole, Im not sure if that would be caused by the mounts or if it is definitely a suspension issue.

 

blown shocks imo. for the motor mounts best way to test is try to move the engine back and forth - if it rocks like loose than they're bad.

 

Just to update, it seems the car will warm up at idle....but when I drive for a little bit the gauge goes down. Any ideas?

 

interesting...

 

My first intuition would be to say thermostat. Cheap, and fairly easy to replace.

 

That's my thought too. I just wanted to see if someone had a similar problem, and it wasn't the t-stat, so I didn't change it for nothing.
Thanks

 

Hi there, going to look at a 99 se tommorow. Owners says it won't start and he's got it priced accordingly. Said it turns over, but doesn't fire. I talked to him briefly and he said he didn't know much about cars, but his neighbor checked the codes and read an MAF code. He said he reasoned that the maf was giving the computer a faulty reading and consequently its not sending any fuel.

Sound like a funny theory to me. Will a MAF by itself cause a car to not start. I've only heard of a bad MAF causing poor running, not starting.

Also, I've done some searches and I know about the problem with keys losing their programing. And I've seen that crank positions sensor is another possibility. So what is worst case scenario? I've worked on my cars in the past so I hope to get this going on my own. Maybe with a little help from the good people on maxima.org.

Also its a 5 speed. He said the tranny was just rebuilt, and they put a new clutch in. The cars got under 95000 miles. Rebuilding a manual transmission seems odd for this mileage. Is this a common thing. Would this lead you to believe that the car may have been driven hard/abused? Thanks in adavance.

 

Car will start w/o a MAF, it just won't run when given gas.
Since it's a 99, the immobilizer could've went bad. Pretty expensive for the dealer to reprogram. Semi-common problem on 99's.
Tranny sounds a little abused for sure.

 

i guess it depends on the price hes asking, but this sounds a little to sketchy to be comfortable

i personally wouldnt buy any car that has a rebuilt or altered tranny

 

He's asking $2000 obo. Blue book on a good condition one is 4500. Also says that the front bumper and driver side fender need to be replaced from a fender bender. The more I think about it the more I question the idea. I'm probably looking at maybe $700 for the body damage. On the engine who knows? Maybe a few hundred. (could be thousands right?) So now I've spent $3000 total on the car.

I'm gonna check it out today. Get a feel for how well its been taken care of. If in the end I've got a good maxima se with under a 100,000 miles for $3000 or less, then I think I'm doing pretty good. I'll also get a feel for how flexible he is on price. Maybe he'll take $1500. His situation is that he needs to get rid of it. Think he said he's moving and can't take it with him.

In looking for maximas it seems that under 100,000 miles is pretty hard to find.

 

2000 is way to much for a car that ur not sure u can get to run. have him fix it and lower price. Ive started my car without my MAF plugged in and it starts like Wizard said so thats not it.

 

yea 2k is WAY too much

id continue looking. you can find 4th gens with under 100k no problem.

 

checked it out. its a defanite pass. I believe the problem is the key programming thing. As the light stayed solid while it was turning over.

Anyway, you could tell that the car was not well taken care. Just the little stuff. I think its best to trust your insticts on cars. And my insticts said no at first glance.

 

Good decision IMO.

 

so i finally got that crank pulley off my car. but then i ran into my next problem, when i tried to get the oil seal out it started to come apart into small pieces like i was pulling a rubber washer out from under a torqued bolt. now being the stubborn person that i am i just kept going at it and pulled the seal apart into little shreds and now i'm stuck with pieces of the main seal all over the place. so my question at this time is how should i get the rest of the pieces off the housing with out damaging anything?

 

what housing? do you mean you have pieces stuck in the groove for the seal? if so buy a pick at a parts store and get it out piece by piece.

you can also get a good pick if you go to walmart and buy a kit for cleaning teeth - cheap and the pick is pretty good quality - no joke.

 

it's the front main oil seal and i was using a pick to get at it, but it is being a major pain to work at to get all the random chunks of it out. i was actually considering heating up the tip of the pick and working at it that way but i'm not too sure how that might work out seeing how it is slightly chilly out around florida right now.

 

Hey people, I love the forum, I read it all the time

Anyway I have a 98 SE, and I'm getting a slight vibration on the highway (70+ mph). Replaced a lower ball joint, and that took care of most of the problem (before that, the vibration was BAD). So the front end looks fine to me. I'm pretty sure the front rotors are bad (vibration on braking), and I recently did the rear brakes, but I think one of the calipers is bad. The outer edge of the rotor was rusty, but the outer pad looked fine. The inner edge of the rotor looked fine, but the pad was normal up at the top, and wore down at an angle so that the pad material was worn down to the metal backing plate thingy down at the bottom. Anyway, when I tried to screw the caliper piston back in, it would turn, but didn't seem to be going in. So I clamped it and turned at the same time (I didn't think anything of it at the time but I blame that on my brother who said don't worry about it). I say all that because I suppose I want to believe the slight vibration is a brake issue (also got an alignment, and had the tires balanced recently).

Anyway, gonna replace the caliper tomorrow or the next day, so I was just hoping to get some thoughts on the vibration before the car goes up on stands.

 

looks like you have the possible reasons covered. if it still vibrates after putting on the new caliper etc might be a bearing issue.

 

is there an easy way to loosen the tensioner on the power steering pump cuz i spent a few hours yesterday trying to get at it and i failed miserably

 

Check for rust on the lower radiator support. One of the engine supports bolts to it. If there is rust/corrosion here--it can be extensive. Look thru the bottom, middle of the front bumper.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...squeaking.html
look at post #15

 

I have a '95 GLE, and my check engine light came on this past Saturday, a few miles after stopping for gas. I checked the ECU codes using instructions found online and was given 0503/P0130 and 0706/P0170.

I understand that P0130 is the front right O2 sensor, and I also understand that P0170 can suggest an issue with an O2 sensor and/or something to do with the engine being given too lean of a fuel mixture.

I have some questions about this:

1. How serious of an issue is this? I'm planning to drive a total of a little over 400 miles this weekend for Thanksgiving. Will I be ok putting off this repair until after I get back home?

2. My friend told me that Nissans are very sensitive to...I'm not sure what, but something to do with the seal on the gas cap. Is it possible that I didn't get a solid enough seal when I closed the gas cap after getting gas on Saturday? It was a cold night, if that makes a difference (about 22ºF, if I remember correctly).

3. If I'm running too lean of a fuel mixture, with the tank filled with 87 octane fuel, could I achieve a richer mixture by topping off my tank with higher grade gas?

4. Can I reset the ECU and assume it's nothing to worry about if the check engine light doesn't come back on within a day or so?

 

Hi...I'm having a weird lighting problem. When using the low beam, the high beam lights come on and can only be turned off when I pull on the light control stick on the steering column ( have to drive at night pulling the light control stick so I dont blind anyone).

I've checked the bulbs and the light harness and both look fine. No melted harness (from what I can see). Any ideas?

Using regular 9004s, one Philips and one Sylvania!

Thanks!

 

1 and 4 reset the ecu before the trip and see if the codes come back. if it is running lean a 400 mile trip might not be a good idea before replacing o2 sensors.

2 then you'd have a code for the evap system not o2 sensor

3 no