It's not a matter of post count. It's more how you present yourself and how long you've been around.

If you mean as far as having to post your questions in the newbie thread, then read the forum FAQs. It's explained there.

 

Hello, I know this is probably a silly question, but how do you put pictures for your avatar? I tried looking in the FAQs but nothing is mentioned, and I tried copying and pasting a image link, and dragging and dropping a image, and double clicking on the little avatar box to see if something happens but nothing.... sorry if this is a repeat question!

 

Go to your control panel, down under 'settings and options' is 'Edit Avatar'.

It may be a donating member only option, don't remember.

 

I have had some trouble with the gas pumps as well! But I really didn't think about it since I have been thinking that it was probably a air bubble or something, thats tripping the overflow sensor on the pump. But I found out that every once in a while if I were to pull out the pump while filling gently without closing that little lid at the neck but just enough to lift the black cushion thing up, then I could usually fill the entire tank without any sensors going off.

 

Ahaha, no wonder. I think it is for only donating members. Thankyou!
I have been reading back a few pages and I have seen that you are a major contributor to answering all these "noob" questions. Thankyou!

 

Looked today and saw that one of my coils wasn't even plugged in. Yeah i know i should have checked that first but atleast i found out what part of the problem was. I'm going to replace the plugs with NGK Iridiums and seafoam it friday. I'm also gonna clean out the IACV.

Filled up again today and put in some fuel injection cleaner. So hopefully now i will get more than 12 MPG

 

i have a 96 maxima gxe auto, and was wondering if it is normal for the tranny to stay in 3rd or drive when only going about 10 mph!!! i would think it would be in first, but it isnt. if u feather the gas it doesnt seem to have any power because it's in that higher gear , at about half to three quarters it will downshift, but it should have already been in first by 10mph....

 

It won't be in 4th, but yes, it's normal for it to stay in 3rd unless you come to a full stop or get it to downshift. That's just crap TCM programming.

 

Hey pmohr,

I'm trying to resolve an EVAP code I have on my max. Upon further investigation, underneath my front strut bar, there's a black plastic part (maybe the size of a half dollar) on the right side of the engine bay (if you're standing in front of the car) with a small rubber house that is supposed to be connected to it. It appears that the plastic nipple of this part has broken off in the hose. Would you happen to know what the actual name of this part is I'm describing? I'm trying to figure out how much it's going to cost me to replace it. Thanks in advance!

 

another random question... what do you guys think my 96 max will run at the track with a gutted air box and a K&N drop in, and a catback exhaust, (high flow cat and a thrush welded muffler). and do u think my supercharged bonneville will take it at the track. (stock for now)

 

i'm new to the site but i think that part ur referring to may be your EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation), i could be wrong tho maybe someone else will chime in..

 

See the track subforum, you're most likely going to run the same as stock.

The GTP, that depends on what it runs and what your Max runs.

Just run them at the track, problem solved.

 

Common issue.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...too-close.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...one-these.html

Give Dave B a call, or check the classifieds. Maxima_Joe may have one.

 

What's up everybody? I am getting a little desperate here. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I bought my 99 SE automatic last summer with 92,400 miles on it. The interior and exterior are in great condition. Everything under the hood looks to be clean and well maintained. I noticed from the start the notorious "mis-fire", but it was occasional and not too bad. Figured I would eventually replace the coil pack(s), hopefully after a specific trouble code. My alt went out about a month ago, so I decided to have my mechanic replace it along with a full tune-up. I bought a rebuilt alt. from Orreilly's, NGK Iridium plugs, and OEM fuel and air filters. I also had him replace the tranny fluid. Very soon after the tune-up, the mis-fire got worse and i got the 0603 and 0201 codes. I replaced coil 6, cleared the codes, but the mis-fire was still there, although the CEL has never come back on. I decided to replace the 5 remaining coil packs and hopefully be done with it. I also cleaned the TB. Now I hear a whining noise from the alt/power steering pump area, which gets louder with the lights on, and seems to be effected by turning the steering wheel. The car idles a little high (1,000 RPM) sometimes and low(500 RPM) othertimes. The whining gets louder with the low idle, like the car is straining and also mis-fires, usually when idleing low, around 500 RPM. My gas mileage is pretty horrible as well. I always use premium and have ran Lucas fuel treatment through a few times. Any ideas? Please and thanks!

 

Reman alternators, depending on brand, are know to fail. I'd get a new one. Have you tested the alternator?

Have you tried to diagnose this new misfire?

Have you cleaned the IACV? It's good to do that the same time as the TB.

 

Haven't tested the alt. After i cleaned the TB and hooked everything back up, I realized I should probably have cleaned the IACV. Is it pretty easy to clean? What about adjusting the TPS? As far as the new misfire, I really don't know where to go from here...after plugs and coil packs. Bad connectors/wires? What do you think? It seems like it only mis-fires now when idleing low and "straining" Thanks for the reply.

 

I've been driving my 99 SE for a few years now, and love the car - but I've always noticed that my automatic is nowhere near as peppy / quick / ? as my mom's 97 SE manual. I'm not sure if that is normal for a manual vs. automatic or if something might be amiss.

I have not replaced the coils or cleaned anything in the TB / IACV department yet and get about 17mpg in the city. Recently I've had lots of roughness in the 2k-3k range and got a code for the knock sensor that looks common, and the harmonic balancer is shot, but thankfully reading here that it's possible to do the knock sensor without taking the manifold off - my eyes had bulged when the shop said it was a 5 hour job... Actually - is it possible that the harmonic balancer vibration would set off the knock sensor?

 

I did my knock sensor in like 20 min - with out taking off the IM / having someone there to help is always nice too =)

 

Geeze - that's sweet - uh... buy you a beer if you show me!
20 minutes vs. 5 hours sounds like my kind of stimulus package - I'll go put on the gloves and buy her a bottle of wine and feel around in the dark to see what I can feel under there!!


PS - any ideas about the auto vs. manual?

 

It's not a harmonic balancer, it's just a crank pulley. And the chances of vibrations there being picked up by the KS are slim to none.

Your auto is slower, yes. That's just how it is. How exactly are you measuring the 'quickness', have you actually run them? Or are you just going by how the car 'feels' (which can be extremely misleading)?

Also FWIW the only proper way to do the KS is by removing UIM/LIM (which isn't that hard of a job, honestly).

 

Made it a Sticky and updated first post

 

Hello, is this car worth the money!? I am looking for a maxima. initally I wanted a 2000-2001 model, because of the way they look. I do like the 95-99 model though as well. Anyway, I have been looking and stumbled up this car on my search:

http://universaltoyota.com/Vehicle.aspx?v=1798320

For those who cannot see it or won't look. Here is Brief details: 1999 Maxima SE fully loaded, 120k. Price: 3995.00. It is very nice for a great price.

What should I look for in these models and be awware of. Please let me know. I am new to the Maxima family. I have owned a 2005 Altima SE-r in the past so I fimilar with the newer version VQ's. Talk to me and let me know

Thanks
Bryan

 

That's good to hear as I really did not want to have to go after another problem. Thanks man.

 

Hello I have a burning question I copied my post from another thread I was wondering if this actually does affect the start of your car.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Yeah my car is experiencing some of the more minor issues, like after it starts the RPM would all of a sudden drop and then go back up in the cold.

I would really love some input on this but I discovered that after you turn your key to ACC where all the lights are on, and then turn the key very slowly to START the car will start a lot faster compared to turning it fast. When I experimented one day and turned it extra slow the engine seemed like it flooded or something and would not start, and it took several tries before it started again, and since then I abandoned messing with the key. But does turning the key from ACC to start differently actually affect how your car starts?"

 

Welp, Ive noticed the cold startup chain rattle, but it only lasts for 1 sec.

It was about 50-55 degrees outside.

Will this damage the engine?

 

shouldn't. my chain tensioner is as old as the car and rattles longer but doesn't cause any issues. the prob might be oil being thicker when it's colder outside and not pressurising the tensioner fast enough.

 

So i noticed that some of you guys say CEL but I have a 99 maxima and i dont see a CEL when i turn on the car. All i see is SES LIGHT. Is this the same as the check engine light? Also i noticed my steering wheel seems to vibrate alot when i hit bumps or pot holes. Does anyone have any idea what it could be? its a 99 MAXIMA SE with 71k miles on it. thanks much.

 

CEL = check engine light, SES = service engine soon, Same thing.

Can you be more specific about "vibrate a lot?" Is it a shudder, a sudden steering wheel movement left or right, a loose feel, etc?

 

Just had my alternator tested and it's bad. Less than a month old. Any suggestions on where to get a good alt?

 

I wonder if an 0w30 would solve that, or at least 5w30?

 

well im a newb here just wanted to introduce myself, bought a 99 5spd. Im not sure if its an se or a gle since it doesnt say anywhere on the car, haha. Just dropping it to say hi

 

Lets see here, when i go over a pot hole i literally see the steering wheel hop around a little bit. i do know i need an alignment but i dont feel that would cause the jolting going on the steering wheel. . i do notice when i try to make the font end bounce with my weight, the car will bounce just a tiny bit more than normal. Also, is the steering on a maxima a little numb on center or is it sensitive? mine seems to be numb. any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Hmmm...do you have aftermarket struts/springs or oem?

Also, how is your power steering fluid, low? Also, if you look under your car, is your rack and pinion leaking?

Kick your tire hard, does the wheel move or just vibrate?

 

also have a question, i was thinking about lowering the car, i do not want to sacrifice the ride comfort, what shocks/spring setup do people go with?

 

There are many many many different combinations. Search around here and you will find various reviews and such about all the different setups. I'm finishing 30k on a set of KYB AGX's with Progress performance springs. I was happy with my purchase, but the ride was a little rough with KYB's, as many will tell you.

 

My brother and i did it fast, yes BLOODY knuckes but it's not that bad... with the PROPER TOOLS.... - and auto vs manual, AUTO SUCKS even with DRMOD basically in my ipinion auto = for pussies that cant drive cars.. but that's just me.... maybe that's why i'm having trans problems lol - but i would even say 20 min is stretching it.....

3 days for KS to get here.....
unpacked it..... 1 min
got tools......(.5)
losened bolt for old ks...(3.0min)
dropped bolt, recovered in (1.9 min)
took off old ks..(50secs)
ligned up screw with new one...(1min)
fit hand in between IM...(1min)
slid in wrench....(.20secs)
tightened bolt....(1min)
took hand out.....(.5seconds)
wiped blood off hand....(1min)

so what.... 12 minuites? yeah....

 

I got some good new and some bad news.

Bad news: i blew a tire going around a turn last nite too fast and ended up in a ditch. Cop came and gave me a ticket for too fast for conditions. We didnt call the cops, one of the people that live on that road did. (no it wasnt in a neighborhood)

Good news: i was able to change the tire after getting pulled out by an Avalanche and drive it home.

Today i woke up and looked at the damage. I dented the front bumper and the rocker panel under the passenger door. I also bent my lower control arm and my back tire is going flat. When i came back home tonite it was still low on air but not completely flat. And i havent even had my max a week yet.

 

its all stock...maybe my tires have to much air....what does factory recommend for tire pressure?....only 71k miles and its doing this...im kind of bumed out. this is my first max....car is pretty fast though for an automatic.....other than the wigglies, car is great. love interior...i got the black leather...looks pimp haha. What do you guys use on the leather to clean it and condition it...i got meguire wipes but it seems to just leave a greasy film on top and not really penetrate.

 

0w30 will turn into gel when temps drop (good for summer time or warm states only). don't worry about it right now. if the rattle doesn't go away when the weather warms up you can replace the tensioner - should be a write up in the stickes.

 

Whats going on fellow orgers? There is a leak coming from this pan that's located on the right front passenger side. I circled the location ( near one of the bolts) of where there is a 15-20 second drip. Fluids levels are good--Car drives fine.