ah ok thanks. yep thats were i replaced it.
it was hanging down for about a month. does it need cleaned? i used a felt towel to clean it off a tich so should i just not worry about it?

 

Doesn't really need cleaning, a wipe down should suffice.

Just throw it back where it's supposed to be, good to go.

 

ok then. thanks for the very fast reply. ive been lurking around the board for a few days and i couldnt find any diagrams. i even searched google. have a good night.

 

Hey guys, I've got a friend who's very interested in a '95 SE 5spd (can't blame her) just trying to get an idea of standard problems to look for. 138k, had it's 120 check up and seems to be in order. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

 

If you look through this thread, this question has been asked and answered dozens of times.

Or, of course, searching:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...leage+problems
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-problems.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...95-99-max.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-97s-asap.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...s-4th-gen.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...watch-out.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-problems.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-problems.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-4th-gens.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...d-gen-4-a.html


...and that was not even the entire first page of search results.

Again, from the very first post of this thread:

 

Right, and I tried. Search still sucks and there's 88 pages, just flipping back only leads me to more "look back furthers". Be kind, rewind?

 

Would that be the "PRE-CAT REAR"?

 

It would be above the rear precat.

Unless you mean prior to the converter, then yes.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13242-Ox...tive&carId=003

is this correct part for 97 maxima gxe

 

As long as it's for the rear bank, upstream, it'll be fine.

Actually, IIRC the O2 sensor harnesses are the same length, front and rear.

 

Hi giys bit of a technical question. Im currently setting up a VQ30det in an offroad racing buggy.Im trying to find out the firing order on this engine .My searching so far has it at 123456 but if thats the case why are the sensor teeth on the cam numbered 145236? also is the cam sensor a magnetic type ? Does anyone know the timing relationships between the crank triggers and the cam triggers in event order. Im setting this engine up with an aftermarket ecu and want to keep the factory sensors if posible. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the idle speed motor.
Any help would be good thanks.
Shane

 

Firing order is 123456 for the VQ30DE, but for the VQ30DET. It should be the same, but information for that is hard to come by, considering it was never released in the US.

Yes, it's a magnetic sensor. What sort of aftermarket ECU are you using? Any reason you don't want to go with a regular DE or the DET ECU and use a piggyback? Have you checked with the manufacturer of your aftermarket ECU to see whether they have the specs for supporting the DET?

What does the IACV look like? If it looks like the USDM version and has the same connector the pinout is likely the same, but if not...

 

If the firing order is 123456 why is the cam sensor set up to read differently as in the pictures i found elsewhere on this forum the teeth
on the cam sensor are 145236. The ecu manufacturer will write the code to suit my application i just want to verify the firing order/cam sensor relationship.They didnt bring the vq30det out here in aus either and info is very thin on the ground.The idle speed motor is a brown six wire mitsubishi unit which i would imagine to be the same as the us version. I just need a wiring diagram to set the pulsing up.I could easily grind off the teeth on the cam sensor bar one and use a multitooth trigger on the crank but for reliability id rather try to use the oe stuff.
Thanks
Shane

 

Who knows. Again, the firing order for the VQ30DE is 123456, and all of the VQs, AFAIK.

If you believe the IACV is the same as the USDM unit, you can find the wiring diagrams in the FSM, EC-125 in the '95 revision.

Again, what aftermarket ECU are you using? You'll most likely get overall better driveability using a factory ECU with a piggyback, FWIW. I know the EU supports the DET out of the box.

Have you tried asking on the VQ30DET.com forums, to see if anyone else is using the engine management you plan on using?

 

I am having issues with the car yanking to one side. I found it out the lower control arm bearing is chewed up. Would it be better to change out the lower control arm as well or just buy aftermarket bearings. And also would OEM be the way to go for the control arm vs "made in china." Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

Bearing meaning...bushing? Balljoint?

 

Also would this be a difficult repair to attempt yourself?

 

Ok Here It Goes,

Ive got a 1996 Nissan Maxima GXE, im about to attach some pictures to my profile. I have just started with it, I just got done installing a new Cold Air Intake Kit (which sounds and runs like a dream), Ive changed the plugs and cables (ngk iridium spark plugs). Upgraded the boost controller, now where do I go from here for performance and look. I know its a noob question, and ive looked all around the site, but theres so many post's i just want to know were to go from here. Also in the interior , i have installed a 3in single din DVD player (freeway dvd), a Carputer with iNav , linked to 2 X 7in screens in the headrests and as for subs I have really basic Pioneer 240 X2 10in and a 240 wat amp. But I need some guidance on where I should go from here. I am also deciding a new spoiler , I really want the stock one for this car seeing as it looks decent on it but am having a hell of time getting one. Any suggestions are welcome, again i will be updating this with pics soon.

Thanks again Guys !,
Mike

 

A few things here. We don't have spark plug cables (or wires as they're more commonly called).

We don't have a boost controller, and...what?

Have you not searched, and read the hundreds of threads asking the same exact question you are?

It's all what you want to do, not what we want you to do. If you're going for performance, you've got the money, can afford the downtime, and you want the power, 3.5 swap it is. If you have a 4AT and you don't like it, swap in the 5MT. If you want to stick with the VQ30, you could do the MEVI/00VI/02VI, or just swap in a DE-K.

Then if you want to go boosted, there are kits for both superchargers and turbos out, or you could go custom. Or there's always nitrous.

The only limit on what you can do is how much time and money you want to put into this.

As far as looks, throw on some David L's, clear corners, problem solved. IMO, anyway.

Long story short, search. If you have any questions about anything I've said above, you can almost guaranteed find it through search.

 

Hey Man Thanks For The Advice, And For The Corrections, However this is pretty much why I wasn't sure about posting at all. But again, I am a noob, and what has to be remembered was everyone was a noob at one time or another. Anyways, maybe I should broaden my questions a bit, like for example, where can i find a grommet to run cable for lights I have setup in the grill, i have 2 Code 3 Fire dept responder lights (as i am a firefighters) and a basic 12v siren. I have made a custom in dash rocker mount and that is what it is wired to However as it stands right now I have the coming through the door panels and I do not like that idea. I cant seem to find a grommet to go through the firewall and bring the cables through. Any help would be great, Im sure I have a ton of questions but I will keep them down for now.

 

It is the bushing, forgot that...oops. I switched to tein basics and started to notice that within a week, probably preexisting since the bushing was eaten up badly. I was wondering If I should buy OEM, I bought the whole assembly and it reads "made in china, which scares me. Or can I just buy the bushing. Thanks.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...res-cabin.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...elp-quick.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-firewall.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ce-needed.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...sing-info.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-firewall.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ires-help.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-firewall.html

...etc.

 

Well do you want to replace the whole LCA, or just the bushings?

If just the LCA bushings, you can get a set at most any auto parts store, or countless places online. There are also ES bushings for that.

For the whole LCA, look in the classifieds. SNOMAX is selling completely refurb'd LCAs for relatively cheap there.

 

The mechanic also mentioned the CV axles where doing badly, but I just want to take it one at a time and see if this helps the jerking of the right wheel which is dangerous.

 

Sounds good! I am going to return the part. Nissan advised me I could only get the whole assembly, not just the bushing. I have seen aftermarket bushings so I guess I'll try that. It would likely be cheaper to have the bushing replaced than the entire control arm.

 

I searched posts by user for "SNOMAX" I could not find him in classifieds section. Is there another way to search for this. I also tried "Lower Control Arm"

 

Search is disabled for the classifieds.

However, it's on the front page: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...roup-deal.html

 

Yeah I found it I didn't look too well. I would rather get the bushing, but since they are aftermarket I am assuming I'd have to change both. Is a bushing change something that can be done with little knowledge or is it a difficult repair? I may have to go the LCA route. I am weighing my options.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-install.html

 

Wow! Thank you I appreciate the link. That is very helpful.

 

Through google I found the "Energy" bushing kit. I am assuming these will work fine. I will buy these and try this route first.

 

Hopefully I won't damage the LCA by driving with the damaged bushing -- or crash. I am going to order the part but won't be able to attempt until next weekend.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

The chance of damaging the LCA is extremely slim.

 

Aftermarket remote trouble

Background info on my car...

My car was a theft recovery when I bought it. The thieves that stole the car apparently used a shaven key to turn the car on and this was the key that was given to me when I bought the car.

The owner didn't have the factory alarm remote so I ended up buying an aftermarket remote off eBay. I tried the programming instructions endlessly and it just didn't work. After much frustration and thinking I realized that it wouldn't work because the key is not shaped correctly in order to tap the key sensor inside the ignition switch unless I go to a Locksmith and have the original key made. Or am I wrong?

Now... I don't want to make the key if it's not going help solve my problem. Is there a way to find out if the key sensor is even functional?

I want to program this damn remote already Thanks in advance for the help.

*PS*
No, there is no "chime" when the key is inside the ignition. And yes, I wiggled the key around in every angle possible.

 

Well, whacked the starter/solenoid -- didn't affect anything. The starting was definitely kicking in good regardless. Sheesh, I hate this kinda unknowns, you know? I'm starting to think some kinda sensor is involved here, but could be thinking down the wrong path.

 

figured out what it smells like, it smells like mildew. any ideas of why or what its coming from?

 

On a side note, I have a OBDII-to-USB cable. Is there a free scan software out there that I can use with it?

 

Most often it's caused by mildew on the evaporator, from the condensation when you run the AC or defroster.

 

Does the manufacturer of your cable provide any? If not you'll need to make sure the software you get is compatible with it.

 

Hey guys,

Last week I called our local Nissan dealership to find out if my car was equipped with keyless entry. They asked for my VIN number and after checking told me that it was. I ordered a keyless fob in very good condition on eBay, followed all given instructions I found in the stickies without any success. So I decided to investigate and pulled the carpeting in the trunk and now I am pretty sure I do not have the keyless entry module. I am not 100% sure because I do not know what it is supposed to look like. I removed the jack and to the left of that all I see is the antenna unit (plastic unit cover about 3-4 inches wide and about 6 inches in height). Can someone please verify that is in fact the antenna unit and not the keyless entry module. And if you can direct to a picture or at least describe what it looks like - it would be really helpful.

Thanks guys.