Yes, the antenna motor is next to the jack. The MRCU is more inside the trunk, along the inner wall on the right hand side.

 

Thanks man. Exactly what I was looking for. Unfortunately, I don't have that - which is pretty unfortunate considering that the dealership supposedly verified. Sigh...

 

PMOHR -- did you get this message? Sorry to bug ya about this again. When the weather warms up, it starts quicker (sometimes immediately); cooler/colder weather like it is now (at least here in Nor-Cal) is a PITA.

 

Hey guys, got a question.

It looks like someone punched the hell out of my center console vents... Where can i buy a replacement for cheap? I'm sure the dealer will be ridiculous...

 

Did you check the classifieds?

 

Ok guys, I'm bringing my 5spd max to the track Saturday(summit motorsports park), what would happen if i put sunoco blue(110oct) or purple(112oct) gas in my car would it burn up haha? Would I see any benefits? I know it would smell good, thats about it, thanks for any input!

 

It might burn a little cleaner but you wont see any major differences. But there might be a big hole in your wallet. There's no point of running high octane if you're not running high compression in your engine. Waste of money IMHO.

 

 

So it's starting up just fine now?

If it just clicks and nothing else, I'd check all of the connections, make sure there's no corrosion around, and suspect the starter after all of that.

That is of course assuming the click is coming directly from the solenoid, and not a barely audible click, like one of the relays.

 

Yeah, I suppose I should have checked there first. Thank you though.

Also, interesting car problem. Power steering works only when engine is above 1500 rpm. So at idle when stopped, I cannot turn the wheel without brute force. Any ideas?

Is there an online pdf file of a factory service manual? I have found them for my honda's but have had trouble finding one for the maxima.

 

Well of course the very first thing I would check is to make sure that your belt is tight enough that it is not slipping on your power steering pulley. But if you are not hearing a squealing noise coming from your engine bay I venture to say that your pump is starting to go bad. I'm sure you have checked your fluid level? How does your fluid look? In the stickies is a how to flush your power steering fluid thread. It may be worth a shot just in case there is a restriction at one of the check valves, but I believe you will find that your impellers inside your pump motor are worn hence the need for more RPM'S to build the fluid pressure up. A junk yard can be your best friend for something like this, since it is rare that a pump goes out.
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...niti-fsms.html
these FSM's are present by pmohr. He is the man, and can be your best friend for all your questions!

 

Three places that I have used with very good results, Maxima.org classifieds, car-parts.com, and a junk yard!

 

Thanks for replying!

It's hard to start when it's cold in the mornings, or if it's been sitting for more than, say, 5 hours anytime of day. The click is definitely coming from the solenoid; I had someone (try to) start the car, while I listened.

Another symptom that may or may not be related, but might help with the diagnosis is that when the key is turned to ACC, I can shift w/o pressing the brakes (which I don't know if it's normal or not), but when turned to ON, I can only shift with the brakes applied (which is normal).

 

belt is plenty tight, fluid-- I had to add a touch, but it was not very low. I will try to flush it and see if that helps. Thanks for the info!

 

I reasonally got a 1999 auto maxima. I no more about civics and integra motor swaps but not maximas. What full swap can I get tranny and motor for the maxima. Thx

 

Did you happen to search at all? No, you didn't.

You can swap in whatever engine you want, with the time and money.

DE-K, 3.5 are the only commonly done swaps.

And for trans, 5MT or 6MT is about all you'd want.

Search.

 

My factory alarm on my 96 Max started to go off ever since 2 days ago whenever I unlock and open my front driver's side door. I have to unlock my trunk or the passenger's side door in order to deactivate the alarm. This is the only door with this problem.

Also, I had my windows down today and when I tried to roll them back up they simply didn't go up. There was no "click" noise coming from windows neither. I pressed the window lock button a few times and still nothing. After a few more tries I finally got them to all go up but it was like they were having trouble going up because they would go up an inch or two and then just stop. So I had to keep pressing the button till they finally all went up.

Any suggestions on what I can do to diagnose these problems?

 

Was this happening from just the driver's side door switch, or with all of the individual window switches?

Did you do anything (or was anything done) to the car before these problems started? Did they start at the same time?

I'd suspect a loose connection or frayed wire, most likely both of these problems are localized to the LF door subharness.

Check EL-165 in the '96 FSM, it shows how to do the IVMS diagnostics.

 

I didn't check all of the individual window switches - I should've tried that. I'll try it if it happens again.

Before it started all I've done to the car (from oldest to most recent) is new headunit + amp + sub + speakers, fogged my tail lights, and rewired the fog lights.

First I noticed my doors would sometimes lock randomly after getting in the car and when pressing the button to lock all my doors all doors would lock except the driver's side (is this suppose to happen?). After that came to alarm issue about 2 days later, and now the windows 2 days after that.

 

thx. With that 5mt and 6mt. What's that? I want to stay automatic not go stick. How much will it come out to roughly? Thx again.

 

If you want to stick with the 4AT, then why did you ask to swap in another trans?

Prices all depend on how much it costs you to get the parts for the swap, which swap you're doing, and who you're getting to do it for you.

Again, search and you'll get a general idea.

 

I just want to get a newer motor and trans. But I want to keep it auto just a newer swap like from a 2004 maxima. I'm located in queens ny so I don't know who does that out here. But I will do some research like u said. Thx again

 

Unless you plan on rewiring the engine control harness for a different trans harness connector, or somehow working a 5AT in there, just stick with the auto you have.

TJ_Max does swaps out there.

Have you checked NYCmaximas?

 

thx alot. So the 3.5 maxima motor will bolt right up with my trans? Thx I will look him up.

 

Yes.

 

Alright guys,

I checked my ECU for CEL codes using the tutorial,
and here are the codes that came up (i doubled check several times, these are 100%):

03-04 = knock sensor

(some member posted a nice tutorial i will be using it to fix it) will those ebay 30$ do the job or is there a diference if i buy a more expensive one?

04-01 = Intake Air Temp Sensor

Is this the 02 sensor that the guy who sold me the max was talking about? or is that something else?

12-05 = Line Pressure Solenoid Valve (Automatic Transmission)
NOW, my transmission is slipping, could this be it???
there is one on ebay atm: http://cgi.ebay.ca/NISSAN-MAXIMA-TRA...3286.m20.l1116

Do you guys know how much approx is the labor for this?


ANY help is GREATLY appreciated, thanks!

 

Any eBay KS should work.

No, it's not an O2 sensor. The IAT goes in the intake tract, measures air temp.

You haven't done the DR mod, have you? Check the drop resistor, front of the left side strut tower, right behind the airbox. Should be a rectangular metal box.

Is it shifting harder?

FWIW you can buy the entire solenoid pack from Nissan for about half the price that they have listed on their auction.

 

damn, thanks for the quick response!

hhmm, no i didn't do any mods on the car yet, whats a DR mod?
ill check to see if i can find what you are talking about, i'm still a noob so... lol

EDIT: i read on the noob guide for the dr mod, i dont think i have it on my car

the shifting is still a little rough from 1 to 2, it slips depending on how hard I hit the pedal

Recently I've hit a couple of potholes and speed bumps and I noticed the engine is now really loud, probably a hole in the muffler or cat or something, not sure if it's related to anything but just FYI.

Thanks again you've been of great assistance.

 

Ok. I'm still having a problem with my 95 gxe. It continues to have intermittent stalling problems. I've swapped out the MAF, TPS, crankcase position sensor, put in new spark plugs, swapped out the one coil pack that came up a fraction off of the others when I tested them, swapped the IACV and thoroughly cleaned it, and even tried swapping an ECU.

Here's the problem again. When idling the rpms will drop very low (100rpm or lower) and it will either die immediately or just sit there and idle at that level until I press on the accelerator in which case sometimes it will catch and the rpms come back up, or it dies. Other times, I'll come to a stop and it seems to be idling just fine until I press on the gas. Then the rpms will drop and it will take a few seconds(seems like a lifetime in an intersection) for the engine (or tranny?) to catch. I can sometimes get it to go fine if I barely press on the gas, let the rpms ease up, then press more firmly and go on my way. Also, after driving on the highway for 10 minutes or so, I won't have any problems at any stops.

It was having a problem where the rpms would attempt to drop while going highway speeds, but wouldn't because I kept my foot solidly on the pedal. This problem seems to have stopped since I replaced the MAF, but not 100% since it's always been an intermittent problem.

Right now, my routine consists of letting my car warm up to operating temp before and after work and have only had the problem once or twice in the past few weeks. Anytime I don't let it warm up, even if it was jsut running several minutes ago, it will have the stalling issue.

Here's the really weird thing. The only code I'm getting from my ECU is the 0304 knock sensor code. I know this shouldn't be causing the problem. (Right?) However, when I swapped in the other ECU, after a day or so I got a crapload of codes. Here they are:

0304 Knock Sensor
0402 Fuel Tank Temp Sensor
0801 Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve
0803 Absolute Pressure Sensor
0807 EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid Valve Circuit
0903 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve
1008 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve
1302 MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve
1305 Fuel Pump Control Module

When I had that ECU on, it didn't really seem to run any worse, so could it be that my old ECU is bad or that this swapped one is bad? If it's my old one, then could all of these things be wrong and causing my problems? I've read about EVAP codes really being gas cap problems, but I had a new gas cap put on a couple of years ago and I still get a good pressure release when I go to fill up.

I've been told to test my fuel injectors for this problem as well. What's the best way to test them, especially the 3 under the intake manifold? What readings am I looking for? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If I can't figure this out soon, I'm gonna have to get rid of my Maxima.

 

I have been trying for about an hour to remove my o2 sensor but the damn thing is rusted in. I have tried box wrench, crescent, wd40, oil, hammer, etc and wont come out. any suggestions? Can i drive without 02 sensor attached?

 

Yes, you can drive without them plugged in. It'll throw a code, and if an upstream, cause bad gas mileage.

You'll likely need a torch to heat it up. If you don't have one, one thing to try is drive it around for a while to get the exhaust nice and hot. Then see if it's any easier to pull the sensor.

Have you tried an O2 sensor socket with a breaker bar? That's probably what you need.

Which sensor?

 

Thank you pmohr I checked EL-165 and turns out there was a loose connection between the harness and the LCU on the driver's door.

Problem solved

 

Ive used the search thread and search forum and come up with nothing.
2 problems.
i was driving down 619 (45mph) and all of a sudden my car felt something i dont know how to describe but sloppy, my steering tightened and i drifted 5ft right into another lane, and my brakes refused to function. after about 5 seconds of breif panic, everything returned to normal and hasent happend for 2 weeks since. i pulled into a parking lot and checked the engine and tires, but no visable damage.

next is my car will lurch slightly foward when in 3rd gear and sometimes 5th, my friend has perscribed it as a backfire but there is no increase in noise or shake of the car. it just lurches slightly, this is very anoying but as of yet has no real inconvience to me.

i have since flushed my powersteering. recent repairs is 4 days before the 619 mishap i turned my rotors and changed my brakes(thanks to the .org) to some duralast golds and replaced one of the caliper bolts(regreased) on the passenger side and changed all filters (fuel, air, ect) on the first day of spring. if you think the problem is tire balance then im in luck because i got them rotated and balanced 2 days ago.. im throwing a random cyl misfire code that i have been unable to fix(havent gone as far as replacing all the coils or knock censor yet). and no major engine mods as of yet.

hope thats enough detail. oh about the car. 1997 nissan GXE manual with 160k miles
sorry for the sometimes vaugeness of my post, i just got my maxima 6 months ago and have yet to nail down what everything is called or does.

 

Hey guys, I'm relatively new and I wanted to post small For Sale thread, but not allowed to.
I have 4th gen carbon fiber dash trim kit brand new, I was ganna put it on but sold the car so now I have no use for it.
Any idea on how I can get the word out?
Thank you very much.

 

Wait until you've got enough posts to make a thread in the classifieds.

 

I have read through a lot of posts and havent found my answer yet...so I hopefully have an easy question. I need to change the sparkplugs in my 95' maxima. Do i have to take the manifold off to get to them and if anyone has a pretty little diagram to show me I would appreciate it. Also do you need any special tools to pull everything out?
Thanks!

 

Hey guys, thanks in advance for any help. My little brother's '97 Maxima V6 was parked one night, and the next day would not start. After a plug change to no avail, our brother-in-law the electrician tested the coils, which failed. He went to Autozone to test a new coil and it OHM'd out...so the coils are bad, right?

The second part of the question, and probably most important, is what would cause 6 coils to fail?

Thanks again

 

No, no special tools, no UIM removal.

A picture of what?

A little searching: http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/i/pr...eplacement.htm

There should be no reason that all 6 of them suddenly failed, short of an ECU or wiring issue.

 

Hey i jus recently got a 4th gen and trying to do it up real nice. i was wondring wat is the best adjustable coilovers for this car. im lookng for a real smooth ride that could start somewhere from stock ride height to about a 3'' drop. also my motor doesnt have a mevi. would be best to get one ? or would it be the same power

 

Again, from the very first post:
Now.

Searching for 'best coilovers'...
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...kits-help.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-opinions.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...y-suggest.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...s-benefit.html

...etc.

Why would it have a MEVI? You seem to imply that it's expected.

Yes, a MEVI would gain power...hence why they're commonly regarded as a performance bolton.

Searching for 'mevi power'...

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...test-data.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...stock-ecu.html
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...o-results.html

In short, searching will answer all of your questions.