MaxedOut99SE

iTrader: (8)

Ok I got a set of brand new power slot cross drilled rotors that I'm ready to install however I still have my stock rear rotors. Now I want to change my stock rears but I'm trying to find a good deal on the rear powerslots cross drilled but I wouldn't mind putting some brembo rears on.

question is: is it wise to have a different brand of fronts from rears?

the_3d_man

iTrader: (1)

doesn't matter. Front is what's important
just put blanks on the rear. slotted/drilled wasn't really necessary for the front either.

willard00

iTrader: (1)

(more importent at least)

major . unless youve got a ton of HP and planning to do some racing (real racing, not street racing where u see someone and floor it) then blanks work fine.

also, a when it comes to daily drivers, a rotors a rotor. i baught autozones for $20 a pop and they work perfectly fine. the performance pads i have are what helps stop better.

MaxedOut99SE

iTrader: (8)

thanks guys, the fronts i got for a steal at 100 flat. couldnt pass that up. Anyway i'll get the blanks for the rear with hawk hps

gunny11218

where did you get them for 100? im kinda starting to look for some new rotors because i hate my brakes heating up all the time, it sucks.

MaxedOut99SE

iTrader: (8)

Right here on the org from another member. Brand spanking new

gunny11218

ohh, damn so you didnt buy them from a website then.. hmm do you know where i could get them for cheap on any website?

MaxedOut99SE

iTrader: (8)

Man I lucked up when I saw it in the classifieds on here but you can check the website.

Go to the group deal section importu got brembo rotors for excellent prices.

Suzie (v)Q

iTrader: (1)

Why are your brakes heating up all the time?

___
JLD

BunGhoLeo

Rotors no, brake pads yes. Basically the rotors are the same metal, providing the same type of friction no matter the brand, the slots and holes just provide cooling and brake fade. The pads on the other hand come in many flavors. You can throw your brake bias off by putting high friction in the front and standard in the rear. BUT, a little trick I learned years ago, you can tune your bias by just changing pad compounds without messing with the proportioning valve. Say your rears are locking up on you, which is a no no, then put organic long wear pads on the rear to lessen the bite. If the rears feel too soft then try some high friction.

If your racing and I don't mean in a straight line, you do not want cross drilled rotors. They are prone to cracking under server heat and thermal fluctuations. Slotted helps, so does high friction pads, but they wear quicker, but there is no substitute for bigger rotors and pads. If it's just a daily driver and for looks, cross drilled is ok.

If your brakes are heating up in normal driving there is a problem.
The caliper might not be able to float, IE rusted bolts "piston pad will be thick, outside pad thin".
The caliper piston is stuck, crap in the caliper, rust maybe "both pads on one side will be thin".
Rubber brake lines may have swelled shut. How old is your car "both pads one side front, 3 hose's in rear could be one or both sides, both pads thin.
Your residual valves may be sticking, allowing excessive residual pressure "both sides both pads, front OR rear will be thin".
The proportioning valve might be stuck, which end is heating up? "both sides both pads, front OR rear will be thin"
Your master cylinder may not be retracting all the way leaving pressure in the line "rear pads both sides thin"
The rears kick in first when depressing the pedal.
Lastly, something may be going on with the ABS unit.

Most brake problems like this are mainly from lack of maintenance. Oil, which is your brake fluid, attracts water over time, causing rust and other non desirable particles to form in the brake system. One of the major cause's of brake parts failure is from a lack of maintenance, then when it's time for a pad change the piston is forced into the caliper and all the crap that had settled in that caliper is forced back all the way to the master cylinder reservoir, contaminating the whole system. Ever price an ABS unit? The correct way is to open the caliper bleeder valve before pushing the piston back in.

Once a year, in the spring after winter is done, I suction out the reservoir, bleed the entire system making sure the old oil gets out. 185,000 miles and other then two sets of front pads, and one set in the rear, no problems.

willard00

iTrader: (1)

WHAT? lol.....its this little thing called friction...

but his brakes will still heat up with cross drilled and slotted or whatever the hell they are. just barely not as much.

MaxedOut99SE

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the heads up , I got the car at 84k and it now has 124k. I brought the car from a major car dealer. my regular brakes are fine I just want to upgrade and put a little flash on them. I will make sure to bleed the system when I change my pads over to the hawk hps.

BunGhoLeo

Just don't forget to open the caliper bleeder valve when pushing the piston back in. HINT: get a small hose to put on the bleeder valve, and catch it in a container. You'll be amazed at how nasty that stuff can get.

BunGhoLeo

Humm, i ASSumed he meant over heating. It is normal for them to get hot to the touch.

cam_honestiam

iTrader: (2)

Rotors are not all created equal...why else do some cost so much less? Most rotors are made out of similar materials, but some are made to higher specifications and some have higher heat tolerances before warping, etc. You can even purchase some that have been treated to avoid rust on non-contact areas...cheap rotors have the tendency for greater run-out and warp more easily. I have seen a marked improvement using BREMBO blanks over the $30-$40 (Ray Bestos) brand I had before.

willard00

iTrader: (1)

^^true, but for daily driving...it doesnt make that much of a difference.

cam_honestiam

iTrader: (2)

^^

This is a blanket comment incorrectly applied to many unique situations is... For me, it has made all the difference in the world. You should rephrase your comment to say "Until the cheap rotors warp or otherwise (again) and you have to replace them (again), it doesn't make that much of a difference." but as for me and my house, we will limit the number of times we have to dink around with our rotors...

willard00

iTrader: (1)

if im wrong why would 4 people that have worked on cars for theyre whole life tell me the same exact thing? one of which makes 6 figures doing specialized engine work and is probably one of the smartest people ive ever met when it come to cars. dailey driving is not going to warp rotors as much as your implying. unless you do an abundance of highway driving and have to go from a high speed to stop quickly and frequently. that would be an acception. but for daily driving around town, youll be fine.

cam_honestiam

iTrader: (2)

You're wrong in the sense that you apply the term "daily driving" too loosely. For example, my daily driving consists of 70+ MPH on highway most of the way to work, separated by several stop lights along the way. In inclement weather, many harsh stops from high speeds at those intersections, coupled with cold water, is not good on rotors, etc. FOR ME, daily driving means the potential for harsh conditions. So you are WRONG for MY daily driving, and likely many others' . Don't take it personally, just avoid generalizing...and use your spell/grammar checker...and just because four intelligent, wealthy people say you are right does not make you right. Can we say "President Bush believed the CIA..." ?

andrei3333

daily driving means not on a race track, have u ever over heated ur brakes ? do u know what thats like ? its not gona happen in the city OR on the high way

u r not pulling 4G's in ur car, so unless u are actually RACING on an enclosed track u do not need any cross drilled or slotted rotors, the reason SOME people get them is for looks...

willard00

iTrader: (1)

if you read what i said...i clearly stated that driving on the highway and having to quickly reduce your speed would be an acception. so that whole paragraph you just mumbled and b*tched throughout was kind of pointless.

oh and im sorry i spelled daily wrong once and didnt use my apostraphies. its deffinatly a matter of needing spell check. because you deffinatly cant understand what the hell i was trying to say.

exactly.

cam_honestiam

iTrader: (2)

Oh geez... it is pointless to pour water into a bucket with holes...but you are right, I missed that last line...and I never said anything about cross-drilled/slotted as mentioned by andrei3333.

And FYI (nothing to do with the topic):

theyre = their
dailey = daily
acception = exception
apostraphies = apostrophes
deffinatly = definitely

willard00

iTrader: (1)

yea your right, but really does it matter? did you not understand what i was saying? if you did, then who cares? if you didnt, go through middle school again.