LED Boards For '99 tails
10-25-2007, 02:14 PM
#121
alright i just spent 7 hrs designing 1 of the smaller boards. i packed 54 sf and 14 resistors into the 2/3 section of the turn siganl. i hope the rest don't take as long. i'm going to build the prototype using the cb with holes rather than etching a copper clad board. expresspcb and me are one now. i actually feel pretty dern smart for figuring all this stuff out. thanks for the help guys.
as for the white, if i can't find anything i'll try the ebay sf knockoffs unless anybody else has any suggestions.
as for the white, if i can't find anything i'll try the ebay sf knockoffs unless anybody else has any suggestions.
10-25-2007, 02:47 PM
#122
its amazing what you can learn in a couple days. heres my progress today:
first i adjusted the design for superflux leds. then i changed from a surface mount design to a through whole design. there were quite a few more versions (and i'm sure there will be more before tonight) but these are what i had print outs of.
first i adjusted the design for superflux leds. then i changed from a surface mount design to a through whole design. there were quite a few more versions (and i'm sure there will be more before tonight) but these are what i had print outs of.
Last edited by BLACKonBLACK98; 10-25-2007 at 02:54 PM.
10-25-2007, 06:06 PM
#123
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: San Dimas, CA
Posts: 310
I was the first to reply to this thread, and I advised to "find a member who might make it for you"
But again the brotherhood of the org has greatly impressed me with everyone's insight, collaboration and determination. Thanks for making me a proud member and I really enjoy this.
........and I hope to buy a set of boards when you can get them ready, yippie!
But again the brotherhood of the org has greatly impressed me with everyone's insight, collaboration and determination. Thanks for making me a proud member and I really enjoy this.
........and I hope to buy a set of boards when you can get them ready, yippie!
10-25-2007, 09:15 PM
#124
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Annandale, VA
Posts: 86
I was the first to reply to this thread, and I advised to "find a member who might make it for you"
But again the brotherhood of the org has greatly impressed me with everyone's insight, collaboration and determination. Thanks for making me a proud member and I really enjoy this.
........and I hope to buy a set of boards when you can get them ready, yippie!
But again the brotherhood of the org has greatly impressed me with everyone's insight, collaboration and determination. Thanks for making me a proud member and I really enjoy this.
........and I hope to buy a set of boards when you can get them ready, yippie!
or better yet "I HAVE A DREAM......."
10-26-2007, 09:46 AM
#125
*edit* i just found out i ordered the wrong ones. i ordered the 20ma version instead of the 100ma version. hopefully they'll let me change my order.
Last edited by BLACKonBLACK98; 10-26-2007 at 10:19 AM.
10-26-2007, 10:36 AM
#126
i grabbed 150 of the hk 5 chip sf knockoffs for the white. are you sure the "mad scientist" one are superflux? they say made by hp rather than phillips. are those 2 companies related?
*edit* i just found out i ordered the wrong ones. i ordered the 20ma version instead of the 100ma version. hopefully they'll let me change my order.
*edit* i just found out i ordered the wrong ones. i ordered the 20ma version instead of the 100ma version. hopefully they'll let me change my order.
These are the ones i have and are indeed the real ones.
10-26-2007, 11:09 AM
#127
i'm gonna check them out. they are 1/3 of the price in the 120 pack. .04 vs. .12. man i'm gonna kick myself if i just got stuck with $60 worth of 20mA whites.
*edit* thats an auction rather than a buy now.
*edit* thats an auction rather than a buy now.
10-26-2007, 11:24 AM
#130
in another auction he has them listed as the F4000 model. they are 70 mA but a 40 degree viewing angle. if you check the specs there are variations of the HPWT-DH00. i bought some anyway and bid on the auction.
10-26-2007, 11:31 AM
#131
Kinda wierd to read but thats 40 degrees at a 20 degree angle but 70 degrees at 0 degree angle . all in all they are all 70's in red orange. thats another thing youhave to look at . they have the hpwt-dh00 in a couple colors but all we deal with is red orange.
10-26-2007, 11:52 AM
#133
ok cool . i used red orange in all of mine . doing the reverse lights is really over kill imho. u really dont use your reverse lights that much at all. I was wondering what you planned to do with the signal lights? Are you looking to get a new flasher or what were you planning on going about that? I honestly and just going to do my signal lights and tail / brake lights.
10-26-2007, 12:20 PM
#135
using a pwm on the blinkers might be overkill. Unless you plan on doing a lot of them in the turn signals. I think the the signals would look best with just a single line of leds. Just my opinion on them tho. Either way, since the leds only need one source of power you should just need proper resistors. If you use higher value resistors you should be able to keep the leds far enough away from burning out. The point of the PWM is to control the brightness between the regular lights and brake lights. With the blinkers you don't need that since they only blink and don't need constant power then more to blink brighter.
10-26-2007, 12:31 PM
#136
yeah that makes sense. i was thinking of having them blink as bright as the brake lights but that might not be neccesary. acually it probably wouldn't even look good. i do have a LOT of leds in there though (1 board with 29, 1 with 53). why would having a lot of leds require a pwm?
10-26-2007, 12:53 PM
#137
well i know as much as you do about this stuff but my assumption was that with a lot of them it would be better with the pwm to regulate the power going to the leds. So if you did...lets say 7 leds on top and 8 underneath
*******
******** (left side of car so you have the angle toward the inside angle. if you can see what i mean)
You could do strings of 3 with resistors but use the pwm to control the voltage so when the blink they stay at say 50% of the maxium. So they wouldn't be so bright but would be bright and not burn out quickly. Just my thoughts.
*******
******** (left side of car so you have the angle toward the inside angle. if you can see what i mean)
You could do strings of 3 with resistors but use the pwm to control the voltage so when the blink they stay at say 50% of the maxium. So they wouldn't be so bright but would be bright and not burn out quickly. Just my thoughts.
Last edited by Cdg2125; 10-26-2007 at 01:02 PM.
10-26-2007, 01:01 PM
#138
well i know as much as you do about this stuff but my assumption was that with a lot of them it would be better with the pwm to regulate the power going to the leds. So if you did...lets say 7 leds on top and 8 underneath:
*******
********
You could do strings of 3 with resistors but use the pwm to control the voltage so when the blink they stay at say 50% of the maxium. So they wouldn't be so bright but would be bright and not burn out quickly. Just my thoughts.
*******
********
You could do strings of 3 with resistors but use the pwm to control the voltage so when the blink they stay at say 50% of the maxium. So they wouldn't be so bright but would be bright and not burn out quickly. Just my thoughts.
Last edited by kzoosho; 10-26-2007 at 01:18 PM.
10-26-2007, 01:06 PM
#139
yeah but i think the amount you want is way offer necessary. I think the way I showed it would look best because the lines could be distinctive. They would still be noticed because they will be bright. Oh and flashing...
10-26-2007, 01:25 PM
#142
Have you seen my tails or made any? 15 leds in our housings would as if you were missing lights. if you need pics let me know. i do think if youl go with that few leds you will not get the lighting you will need to be safe.
10-26-2007, 01:39 PM
#144
i like the lights both you guys posted. i am designing mine to light up the housing completely and evenly ie no lines. it might look good, it might not... we'll just have to wait and see. i have 1/20" between mine vertically and 3/20" horizontal spacing. i'll give the official count a little later when i finish my last board, but i'm guessing about 250/side. thats inner/outer running/brake, 2 boards for the signal, and reverse. its starting to sound like overkill now that you guys are throwing out numbers, but i knid of invisioned them differentally than y'alls. 
10-26-2007, 02:02 PM
#146
actually (assuming they let me change my order) they were the easiest because you can only use series of 4 100 mA leds. i figured since the signal and reverse are rarely ever on at the same time i could just do a 4x14 block. the hard ones have been the upper parts because of the shape and size. its not easy to get the shape right using series of 5 with very little spacing, but i'm almost done.
10-26-2007, 03:52 PM
#148
ok, well i'm done with my last design. i think it will be easier for me from here on out since i'm having the boards made. i've been designing these things for 12+ hours a day for the last 3 days. i think you'll be able to see them from the moon. not really, but there are a TON of lights. official count coming soon.
10-26-2007, 09:33 PM
#149
original leds from kevlo that everyone loved had 108 leds. That's what I'm doing. 24 on the outsides 30 on the insides. I just can't imagine putting 200 leds into the tails. And from what I know about the kevlo tails, the 108 were very bright. They were originally worried that people would be pulled over they were so bright. So I don't think that less LEDs is unsafe. It's about how bright they end up being.
10-27-2007, 07:40 AM
#150
well the official count is in at 293/side. this is how i want my lighting to appear:
that is the car that belongs to the azdave guy we keep mentioning. i am going to find more details on a way to adjust the brightness of the running lights as well as the brake lights via pwm.
*edit*the look i'm going for requires more leds, but they can be run at a lower duty cycle which, to me, is a plus.
that is the car that belongs to the azdave guy we keep mentioning. i am going to find more details on a way to adjust the brightness of the running lights as well as the brake lights via pwm.
*edit*the look i'm going for requires more leds, but they can be run at a lower duty cycle which, to me, is a plus.
10-27-2007, 02:26 PM
#151
well the official count is in at 293/side. this is how i want my lighting to appear:
that is the car that belongs to the azdave guy we keep mentioning. i am going to find more details on a way to adjust the brightness of the running lights as well as the brake lights via pwm.
*edit*the look i'm going for requires more leds, but they can be run at a lower duty cycle which, to me, is a plus.
that is the car that belongs to the azdave guy we keep mentioning. i am going to find more details on a way to adjust the brightness of the running lights as well as the brake lights via pwm.
*edit*the look i'm going for requires more leds, but they can be run at a lower duty cycle which, to me, is a plus.
10-27-2007, 03:02 PM
#152
from what i understand his first versions were smd, but he later replaced them with sf. i was wondering if the pwm controlled both or not. does anybody know about/have links regarding sharp regulators?
also, if anyone wants to chime in about their preference in appearence, please do.
also, if anyone wants to chime in about their preference in appearence, please do.
10-27-2007, 04:26 PM
#153
i already told ya guts.. ONLY use Super Flux leds.. they are the brightest and last the longest...
also only use a pwm.. WHy you may ask.. heres ur answer why..
let say u have 5 rows of 5 leds.. ok and then u have 2 rows of 2 leds.. if u use a voltage regulator then the 5 rows of 5 are gonna be dim and the 2 rows of 2 are gonna be brighter... thats why u wanna use a pwm ONLY.. since in a PWM you arent regulating voltage ur simply modifying the duty cycle of the leds..
Why are u guys still asking questions about a simple process..
also only use a pwm.. WHy you may ask.. heres ur answer why..
let say u have 5 rows of 5 leds.. ok and then u have 2 rows of 2 leds.. if u use a voltage regulator then the 5 rows of 5 are gonna be dim and the 2 rows of 2 are gonna be brighter... thats why u wanna use a pwm ONLY.. since in a PWM you arent regulating voltage ur simply modifying the duty cycle of the leds..
Why are u guys still asking questions about a simple process..
10-27-2007, 04:37 PM
#154
you know, i'm not 100% sure since i'm learning as i go but i think you're wrong. i think that you can use a voltage regulator with a pwm. as a matter of fact the pwm i'm buying has a built in regulator. you can have series of different amounts because the resistors in series with the leds vary in resistance.
smart guy...
smart guy...
10-27-2007, 05:21 PM
#156
I understand what you are saying. and yes you do want to use a regulator with your pwm that way you have a constant voltage. theres no need to get hostile about things. the pic he posted is smd leds and they are nice and long lasting also. if you are not going to use as many as dave (i.e) 5000 then yes sf all the way. I didnt not use nor have i ever used pwm so it is not the only way to go . Please stop misinforming about that. Pwm is the best way to go but it can be had other ways. I personally have proved this over and over again.
10-27-2007, 05:26 PM
#157
i'll be sure to remember not to ask you, actually i never did. how could you argue that controlling the voltage then adjusting the resistors to make up the difference of the voltage drop is not right. the only reason yours aren't blowing is because series of 5 superflux can handle 13v. upgrade your electrical system and i bet you start burning something.
10-27-2007, 11:11 PM
#159
cool. Glad to see that your designs are coming together. Just wanted to say that the comment I made before about the style of Kevlo leds was made because I wanted to say that those were the demand. Not to say people won't want your style but Kevlos design was a big part of what people wanted. Nice led design, simplistic, and really nice. So the point before was just to say that you might want to remember what the demand was for (in case you plan to manufacture them). I think it's cool to make the original design you have but I just wanted to make that point so it wasn't a big deal if you did want to manufacture but was not a high demand.
10-28-2007, 06:16 AM
#160
thanks. i understood what you meant by your comment. i liked kevlo's style as well, but i'm building mine the way i picture them. i feel i'm a person of good taste and high standards, so if i like what i make i'll put it out there. if i don't i will work on changing it until i do. all due respect to kevlo and his design, but being that it was the ONLY design out at the time theres really no way to determine what drew people to them. i do appreciate your input and it is something i have considered.