Is there a HOW TO on cleaning the EGR without removing it?
11-29-2007, 09:41 AM
#41
again. you dont clean the EGR Valve. you dont clean the solenoid. you clean the small EGR pipe. on the IAC Valve, there is a harness connector that runs down to the EGR temp sensor on the pipe. that pipe is what you clean.
11-29-2007, 01:03 PM
#42
i have no idea why it says that. it happened during the site upgrade. as far as what the OP was looking for he never said anything about the EGRtube. he just said EGR and if you look at the instructions it shows removal for the EGR valve. so what i stated was correct.
11-29-2007, 01:25 PM
#43
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 69
You werent answering the Original Poster (me), you answered 2da mizzax - saying HE was incorrect. His actual quote is right here:
Originally Posted by 2da mizzax
incorrect.
it is the small tube that needs cleaning. not the large one.
it is the small tube that needs cleaning. not the large one.
Last edited by JoshBarber; 11-29-2007 at 01:35 PM.
11-30-2007, 04:52 PM
#46
every egr is probably a little clogged. like someone said, if you dont throw codes and you can pass emissions, probably doesnt matter too much. its a marginal fix that people do because they are enthusiasts, perfectionists, or just love working on their car. i didnt see any change in performance. i am getting better milage but its probably because i drive alot slower now, cleaned my k&n and using 5w 30 instead of 10.
in theory it should help because it recirculates unburned fuel after the initial combustion = more efficient fuel useage.
in theory it should help because it recirculates unburned fuel after the initial combustion = more efficient fuel useage.
12-26-2007, 05:41 PM
#48
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: in Texas
Posts: 9
I followed the instruction posted by 2da mizzax and also b SOunbwoy and took off the smaller EGR tube and cleaned it. What a clog !! also took off the IACV and cleaned the trough that is in the manifold that is into the opening of the smaller EGR tube.
But now, I cant get the EGR valve bolts back on !! they turn and turn but dont "catch' properly. Is there some trick ? I thought of using plumbers tape but realized the high temp in that area might not be a good idea. I am kind of stuck in this DIY until I can get the EGR valve mounted back to the manifold again. I also am sure that I didnt strip the holes because I took care taking the bolts off.
But now, I cant get the EGR valve bolts back on !! they turn and turn but dont "catch' properly. Is there some trick ? I thought of using plumbers tape but realized the high temp in that area might not be a good idea. I am kind of stuck in this DIY until I can get the EGR valve mounted back to the manifold again. I also am sure that I didnt strip the holes because I took care taking the bolts off.
12-27-2007, 08:39 PM
#49
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: in Texas
Posts: 9
Ok.. I figured out why the EGR bolts would not turn. The holes were full of metal shavings and oily dirt. I got a 8 mm tap (the bolt is 8mm) and ran it in each hole and got out a bunch of muck and the bolts took right away.
So I put it all back together. Will know this week if everything works and the CEL stays off.
So I put it all back together. Will know this week if everything works and the CEL stays off.
12-27-2007, 09:37 PM
#50
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 94
Jimmy, Dog you should have taken pics and posted for everyone see and enjoy. Sadly, I have been forced by the dreaded CEL to clean my EGR tube so I can pass emissions
. How long was the car out of commission while you performed the repair? Just want to make sure I set aside enough time this weekend to complete once I start.
. How long was the car out of commission while you performed the repair? Just want to make sure I set aside enough time this weekend to complete once I start.
12-28-2007, 04:55 AM
#52
Jimmy, Dog you should have taken pics and posted for everyone see and enjoy. Sadly, I have been forced by the dreaded CEL to clean my EGR tube so I can pass emissions. How long was the car out of commission while you performed the repair? Just want to make sure I set aside enough time this weekend to complete once I start.
. How long was the car out of commission while you performed the repair? Just want to make sure I set aside enough time this weekend to complete once I start.
12-28-2007, 04:38 PM
#53
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: in Texas
Posts: 9
I apologize for not taking pics. just that 2damizzax earlier poster is pretty much what I followed. Anyways, I will try to summarize what I did:
(1) Remove the Air Filter housing and throttle body. The hoses for coolant and vacuum might be hard to take off. Just remove the clips for the coolant hoses (vacuum doesnt have clips) and use a flat headed screw driver to VERY CAREFULLY start to back the hose off the port; once its a little bit backed off the end, you can wiggle it off with your hands. I did this for every hose and did not damage any of the hose ends.
Label everything if possible. I used a red felt tip marker and marked both the hose or electric connector and the port or electrical socket.
For the throttle body, you can use the same metal gasket but I suggest you buy all the required gaskets before you start as it is a good idea to change them out.
(2) Remove the IACV valve. It has 3 bolts. Use a 12 mm socket. I did not have a hard time taking any of the bolts off. Also there will be a metal gasket here.
(3) Remove the bracket holding the EGR Flow sensor. You will have to do this for #4 below
(4) Remove the top of the EGR guide Tube which is to the left of the IACV (as you are facing the car). Here, you will have to go by feel a lot as you cannot see what you are doing. I used a mirror just to get an idea where the bolts for the EGR flow tube were. You need a 12 mm socket for this too.
REMEMBER when you are backing these bolts out, be careful not to cross thread as the Aluminium exhaust body that they go into will easily cross thread. The bolts will come off easily with a little pressure as they are rusted but the rust will help in removing the bolts. When you remove the bolts, the studs may not come off but you dont need them off (its better if you leave them on as when you reassemble, you can get the gasket and EGR flow tube back on the studs quickly). If you need to take the studs off you can use a 5 mm socket (or was it a 5.5 mm - dont remember, try both).
(5) To remove the bottom part of the EGR guide tube, you will not need to take off the bolts and nuts from the EGR valve itself. To get to the EGR valve, you will see 2 thick coolant hoses in the way. Just remove them from their clip and move them up or down out of the way. You can do this entire project for the top right side of the car. remove the metal hose coming out of the front of the EGR tube. I used a small variable wrench to take the nut in it off. It goes up to the EGRC-BPT valve right next to the EGR and just goes on the end of the EGRC-BPT with a rubber hose; remove this pipe and clean it thoroughly. The pipe # is 14751 in the following schematic:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...1785_1797.html
The EGR valve nuts are again 12 mm nuts. Again, the stud/bolt is a 5 mm (or 5.5 mm). These studs you have to take off for # 6 below.
(6) Once you take off the studs and bolts for the EGR valve , use a long screwdriver and a hammer. Put the screw drive on top of the big nut that goes into the side of the screw driver and hammer 2 - 3 times. What this does is move the entire EGR valve and that big pipe # 14120 (with the nut you are hammering on) about 2 inches down. You need to do this for step 7 below.
HOWEVER, if you need to remove the EGR valve (which isnt really needed since from my research on this website and other website, the valve almost never will go bad), do not remove the nut and bolt for the EGR valve. Leave them on so you can take off the 30 mm nut on pipe 14120 (look at link above). I didnot remove the EGR valve itself (because i dont think its necessary - although I tried to take it off just to take a look but I couldnt get that 30 mm nut turning at all so I left it).
(7) Once the EGR valve is out of the way, remove the nuts from the bottom of the EGR guide tube and remove this tube. You do not need to remove the studs (its is better to leave them since it is easier to reassemble) but if you have to for any reason again it is a 5 mm (or 5.5 mm) socket.
(8) Clean the EGR guide tube. it will be very blocked with hard black residue. I used engine cleaner from autozone ( i couldnt find throttle body cleaner). Use a wire hanger to break the clogs.
If you stick your finger in the opening of the IACV valve, you will see a trough (a little hole) in the bottom of that passage . This hole is how the EGR guide tube flows air into the manifold. This hole will be blocked with hard crusty black stuff. It took me a while and a bent hanger to get all that stuff out. I also used a shop vacuum and wire brush (can buy those at ace hardware) to get the black stuff out of the exhaust manifold.
Clean the 14751 pipe. Mine wasnt that clogged but others reported major clogs.
Reassembly is the exact opposite of disassembly. The only problem I can report is that I had an extremely difficult time getting the studs for the EGR valve started in their hole while also making sure the gasket was on. Ultimately what I found out was the grease and dirt and metal shavings were in the hole. I used a 8 mm tap to VERY CAREFULLY get this stuff out. Make sure you dont damage your Aluminum block when you do this if you have to do this. The screw is 8 mm so I wasnt really re-tapping the hole, just cleaning it.
Also, since the EGR valve is moved out of position (as you banged on it with a screw driver), use a wrench and rotate up ward and it will move the entire assembly back in line with the opening)
I also had a little difficulty getting the electrical connectors off (I used a flathead screwdriver to pop the clips first and the slowly wiggled them out). I cracked the housing of my EGR Temp/Flow sensor but reused the same one as none of the electrical was damaged.
I bought all my gasket replacements from Courtesy Nissan online by the way and in advance of this project. You may also want to buy replacements for the coolant hoses you will be disconnecting as one of mine was a little cracked probably from me working on it to get it off the nozzle.
So, the stuff I cleaned were # 14713, 14751, the trough in the exhaust manifold. While the stuff was off the car, I also cleaned the IACV valve (take off the 2 screws on the front side and clean and take off the 3 screws on the metal cap on the back side and clean inside. The screws will be hard to take off, make sure you dont strip them), the throttle body and the Air Filter and Air Filter housing (I just banged the air filter against the wall to remove leaves and dust - i read somewhere you can wash it. You can also just buy a new one. I opted to keep this one I had because its only 1 years old)
If you have any questions, send me a message
It took me about 8 hrs but 2 hrs of that was wasted time trying to get the EGR valve stud back on.
(1) Remove the Air Filter housing and throttle body. The hoses for coolant and vacuum might be hard to take off. Just remove the clips for the coolant hoses (vacuum doesnt have clips) and use a flat headed screw driver to VERY CAREFULLY start to back the hose off the port; once its a little bit backed off the end, you can wiggle it off with your hands. I did this for every hose and did not damage any of the hose ends.
Label everything if possible. I used a red felt tip marker and marked both the hose or electric connector and the port or electrical socket.
For the throttle body, you can use the same metal gasket but I suggest you buy all the required gaskets before you start as it is a good idea to change them out.
(2) Remove the IACV valve. It has 3 bolts. Use a 12 mm socket. I did not have a hard time taking any of the bolts off. Also there will be a metal gasket here.
(3) Remove the bracket holding the EGR Flow sensor. You will have to do this for #4 below
(4) Remove the top of the EGR guide Tube which is to the left of the IACV (as you are facing the car). Here, you will have to go by feel a lot as you cannot see what you are doing. I used a mirror just to get an idea where the bolts for the EGR flow tube were. You need a 12 mm socket for this too.
REMEMBER when you are backing these bolts out, be careful not to cross thread as the Aluminium exhaust body that they go into will easily cross thread. The bolts will come off easily with a little pressure as they are rusted but the rust will help in removing the bolts. When you remove the bolts, the studs may not come off but you dont need them off (its better if you leave them on as when you reassemble, you can get the gasket and EGR flow tube back on the studs quickly). If you need to take the studs off you can use a 5 mm socket (or was it a 5.5 mm - dont remember, try both).
(5) To remove the bottom part of the EGR guide tube, you will not need to take off the bolts and nuts from the EGR valve itself. To get to the EGR valve, you will see 2 thick coolant hoses in the way. Just remove them from their clip and move them up or down out of the way. You can do this entire project for the top right side of the car. remove the metal hose coming out of the front of the EGR tube. I used a small variable wrench to take the nut in it off. It goes up to the EGRC-BPT valve right next to the EGR and just goes on the end of the EGRC-BPT with a rubber hose; remove this pipe and clean it thoroughly. The pipe # is 14751 in the following schematic:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...1785_1797.html
The EGR valve nuts are again 12 mm nuts. Again, the stud/bolt is a 5 mm (or 5.5 mm). These studs you have to take off for # 6 below.
(6) Once you take off the studs and bolts for the EGR valve , use a long screwdriver and a hammer. Put the screw drive on top of the big nut that goes into the side of the screw driver and hammer 2 - 3 times. What this does is move the entire EGR valve and that big pipe # 14120 (with the nut you are hammering on) about 2 inches down. You need to do this for step 7 below.
HOWEVER, if you need to remove the EGR valve (which isnt really needed since from my research on this website and other website, the valve almost never will go bad), do not remove the nut and bolt for the EGR valve. Leave them on so you can take off the 30 mm nut on pipe 14120 (look at link above). I didnot remove the EGR valve itself (because i dont think its necessary - although I tried to take it off just to take a look but I couldnt get that 30 mm nut turning at all so I left it).
(7) Once the EGR valve is out of the way, remove the nuts from the bottom of the EGR guide tube and remove this tube. You do not need to remove the studs (its is better to leave them since it is easier to reassemble) but if you have to for any reason again it is a 5 mm (or 5.5 mm) socket.
(8) Clean the EGR guide tube. it will be very blocked with hard black residue. I used engine cleaner from autozone ( i couldnt find throttle body cleaner). Use a wire hanger to break the clogs.
If you stick your finger in the opening of the IACV valve, you will see a trough (a little hole) in the bottom of that passage . This hole is how the EGR guide tube flows air into the manifold. This hole will be blocked with hard crusty black stuff. It took me a while and a bent hanger to get all that stuff out. I also used a shop vacuum and wire brush (can buy those at ace hardware) to get the black stuff out of the exhaust manifold.
Clean the 14751 pipe. Mine wasnt that clogged but others reported major clogs.
Reassembly is the exact opposite of disassembly. The only problem I can report is that I had an extremely difficult time getting the studs for the EGR valve started in their hole while also making sure the gasket was on. Ultimately what I found out was the grease and dirt and metal shavings were in the hole. I used a 8 mm tap to VERY CAREFULLY get this stuff out. Make sure you dont damage your Aluminum block when you do this if you have to do this. The screw is 8 mm so I wasnt really re-tapping the hole, just cleaning it.
Also, since the EGR valve is moved out of position (as you banged on it with a screw driver), use a wrench and rotate up ward and it will move the entire assembly back in line with the opening)
I also had a little difficulty getting the electrical connectors off (I used a flathead screwdriver to pop the clips first and the slowly wiggled them out). I cracked the housing of my EGR Temp/Flow sensor but reused the same one as none of the electrical was damaged.
I bought all my gasket replacements from Courtesy Nissan online by the way and in advance of this project. You may also want to buy replacements for the coolant hoses you will be disconnecting as one of mine was a little cracked probably from me working on it to get it off the nozzle.
So, the stuff I cleaned were # 14713, 14751, the trough in the exhaust manifold. While the stuff was off the car, I also cleaned the IACV valve (take off the 2 screws on the front side and clean and take off the 3 screws on the metal cap on the back side and clean inside. The screws will be hard to take off, make sure you dont strip them), the throttle body and the Air Filter and Air Filter housing (I just banged the air filter against the wall to remove leaves and dust - i read somewhere you can wash it. You can also just buy a new one. I opted to keep this one I had because its only 1 years old)
If you have any questions, send me a message
It took me about 8 hrs but 2 hrs of that was wasted time trying to get the EGR valve stud back on.
01-06-2008, 10:10 PM
#54
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: in Texas
Posts: 9
EGR CEL
Darn it
myCEL is back on after driving 250 miles after the last post.
Now also getting code P0150 (O2 sensor) and P0325 (Knock sensor) in addition to the original P0400. Did some digging around this forum and some others have changed their EGR Control Solenoid valve as well and the P0400 went away for them.
I used a lot of engine cleaner to get the stuff out of the inside of the plenum so I am wondering if that is what is setting off the P0150 and P0325 although I can say that the car runs great (no knocking or delays accelerating at any speed). I put in 93 octane and am hoping running a tank of 93 octane will clean out the remaining of the engine cleaner and take care of P0150 and P0325
Anyone have similar experience. Any suggestions ???
myCEL is back on after driving 250 miles after the last post.
Now also getting code P0150 (O2 sensor) and P0325 (Knock sensor) in addition to the original P0400. Did some digging around this forum and some others have changed their EGR Control Solenoid valve as well and the P0400 went away for them.
I used a lot of engine cleaner to get the stuff out of the inside of the plenum so I am wondering if that is what is setting off the P0150 and P0325 although I can say that the car runs great (no knocking or delays accelerating at any speed). I put in 93 octane and am hoping running a tank of 93 octane will clean out the remaining of the engine cleaner and take care of P0150 and P0325
Anyone have similar experience. Any suggestions ???
01-07-2008, 06:45 AM
#55
Darn it
myCEL is back on after driving 250 miles after the last post.
Now also getting code P0150 (O2 sensor) and P0325 (Knock sensor) in addition to the original P0400. Did some digging around this forum and some others have changed their EGR Control Solenoid valve as well and the P0400 went away for them.
I used a lot of engine cleaner to get the stuff out of the inside of the plenum so I am wondering if that is what is setting off the P0150 and P0325 although I can say that the car runs great (no knocking or delays accelerating at any speed). I put in 93 octane and am hoping running a tank of 93 octane will clean out the remaining of the engine cleaner and take care of P0150 and P0325
Anyone have similar experience. Any suggestions ???
myCEL is back on after driving 250 miles after the last post.
Now also getting code P0150 (O2 sensor) and P0325 (Knock sensor) in addition to the original P0400. Did some digging around this forum and some others have changed their EGR Control Solenoid valve as well and the P0400 went away for them.
I used a lot of engine cleaner to get the stuff out of the inside of the plenum so I am wondering if that is what is setting off the P0150 and P0325 although I can say that the car runs great (no knocking or delays accelerating at any speed). I put in 93 octane and am hoping running a tank of 93 octane will clean out the remaining of the engine cleaner and take care of P0150 and P0325
Anyone have similar experience. Any suggestions ???
01-21-2008, 06:58 AM
#57
Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 83
I just did this yesterday and its definitely a 5 hour job. I have 126K and the top of my EGR flow tube was completely clogged with chunky black resin. I was getting CEL 0302 before this procedure and now CEL the light is off!
I used 2da mizzax's write up. Very helpful! I know several write ups say that in order to access the lower 12mm bolts on the EGR flow tube, you need to pry away the large pipe in front of these bolts. However, instead of whacking the 30 mm nut with a hammer and screwdriver, I put a crescent wrench on that nut and moved the pipe down just enough to fit a 12 mm socket on the lower bolts. The crescent wrench also helped me line up the holes when reinstalling the studs into the aluminum body. I applied some anti-seize lube to the stud threads prior reinstalling. I didn't have any rust on the studs, so they were pretty easy to work with.
I used 2da mizzax's write up. Very helpful! I know several write ups say that in order to access the lower 12mm bolts on the EGR flow tube, you need to pry away the large pipe in front of these bolts. However, instead of whacking the 30 mm nut with a hammer and screwdriver, I put a crescent wrench on that nut and moved the pipe down just enough to fit a 12 mm socket on the lower bolts. The crescent wrench also helped me line up the holes when reinstalling the studs into the aluminum body. I applied some anti-seize lube to the stud threads prior reinstalling. I didn't have any rust on the studs, so they were pretty easy to work with.
03-05-2008, 04:25 AM
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lowell/Boston, MA
Posts: 1,613
Here is a good question... Is it possible to get worse MPG with this clog? Cause Im having like the same issues, and I am gonna clean it as soon as spring hits... but right now I am getting about 15mpg ever since I hit this SES light and rear caliper issues...
07-19-2008, 03:37 AM
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 481
No Luck with egr tube removal...
I removed the upper bolts that hold the tube near IACV, and one of the bolts holding the bottom part (it came out in one piece with the nut).
loosen 2 nuts on the large pipe and tried to push the large tube away a little bit so I could put a wrench on the nut of small egr tube (closest to firewall).
I used the open end wrench first but because the nut was rusted the wrench turns on it without any grip. Then I managed to stick the closed end of the wrench in there, but it wasn't catching on the nut at all.
Now I can't take that wrench out of there lol , so I tried to remove the big 30 mm nut on the big egr tube with variable (crescent) wrench with no success.
I guess the only option I got is to hacksaw the nut, take out the wrench out of there and use small variable wrench to remove that freaking nut
Does pb blaster help to remove rusted nuts ?
The stuck wrench
I removed the upper bolts that hold the tube near IACV, and one of the bolts holding the bottom part (it came out in one piece with the nut).
loosen 2 nuts on the large pipe and tried to push the large tube away a little bit so I could put a wrench on the nut of small egr tube (closest to firewall).
I used the open end wrench first but because the nut was rusted the wrench turns on it without any grip. Then I managed to stick the closed end of the wrench in there, but it wasn't catching on the nut at all.
Now I can't take that wrench out of there lol , so I tried to remove the big 30 mm nut on the big egr tube with variable (crescent) wrench with no success.
I guess the only option I got is to hacksaw the nut, take out the wrench out of there and use small variable wrench to remove that freaking nut
Does pb blaster help to remove rusted nuts ?
The stuck wrench
Last edited by matrix11229; 07-19-2008 at 03:46 AM.
07-19-2008, 03:50 AM
#62
completely remove the studs in pic #2. pry down that large EGR tube (you have to press hard). that should give you room to wiggle the wrench out and get a s0cket in there. ratchet it off and voi la. and yes PBlaster will oosen rusted parts. let it soak fr about 30 min. dont spray the nuts in pic 2. you want those to come out as one whole unit.
07-19-2008, 04:07 AM
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 481
completely remove the studs in pic #2. pry down that large EGR tube (you have to press hard). that should give you room to wiggle the wrench out and get a s0cket in there. ratchet it off and voi la. and yes PBlaster will oosen rusted parts. let it soak fr about 30 min. dont spray the nuts in pic 2. you want those to come out as one whole unit.
These studs didn't come out, only the nuts were loosen as you can see in the pic
Last edited by matrix11229; 07-19-2008 at 04:14 AM.
07-19-2008, 04:20 AM
#64
yeah. I meant #1.
If thenuts come off witout the studs. spray them down with pblaster. lets it soak for 30 min. then put a 5mm socket over top and remove the studs. (either 5 or 7 but I am pretty sure its a 5mm). once those 2 are out the large EGR pipe can be slightly bent out of the way allowing access to the 2 nuts you want to get to.
If thenuts come off witout the studs. spray them down with pblaster. lets it soak for 30 min. then put a 5mm socket over top and remove the studs. (either 5 or 7 but I am pretty sure its a 5mm). once those 2 are out the large EGR pipe can be slightly bent out of the way allowing access to the 2 nuts you want to get to.
07-19-2008, 04:41 AM
#65
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 481
yeah. I meant #1.
If thenuts come off witout the studs. spray them down with pblaster. lets it soak for 30 min. then put a 5mm socket over top and remove the studs. (either 5 or 7 but I am pretty sure its a 5mm). once those 2 are out the large EGR pipe can be slightly bent out of the way allowing access to the 2 nuts you want to get to.
If thenuts come off witout the studs. spray them down with pblaster. lets it soak for 30 min. then put a 5mm socket over top and remove the studs. (either 5 or 7 but I am pretty sure its a 5mm). once those 2 are out the large EGR pipe can be slightly bent out of the way allowing access to the 2 nuts you want to get to.
07-19-2008, 07:48 AM
#66
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 127
I have a 95 gxe with 168k throwing a P0400 code. I had to pull the Intake Manifold during a different repair, so I checked the port in the IM and the tube. There was some carbon buildup, but it was over 50% clear. I ran a 10" long spring down the tube to make sure the rest of it was clear.
I don't think the problem is a clog, so I am about to start the diagnostics from the Nissan Service Manual.
Any thoughts would help.
I don't think the problem is a clog, so I am about to start the diagnostics from the Nissan Service Manual.
Any thoughts would help.
07-19-2008, 08:07 AM
#67
the major clog is not at the opening. it is at the 90 degree kink in the middle. and i doubt you could have gotten the spring all of hte way to the other end of the tube even if it were clear since the sensor would have blocked it from passing.
07-19-2008, 09:09 AM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
According to my neighbor/ Infiniti technician who does this every day, it's always the EGR port on the UIM and opening on the tube that gets packed solid with carbon. Everything past that should be clear, but checked in another 140k miles. He said he never needs to take the whole tube(s) off. The tube that goes to the exhaust manifold is always clear. It's just the UIM EGR port and flange on the tube that is a bottle neck.
07-19-2008, 10:05 AM
#69
i heard there was some benefit to blocking off the EGR valve? something along the lines of the fact that its only recirculatinwg 15% of emissions gases and such? or am i to be mistaken?
07-19-2008, 10:21 AM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
If you lose it, you'll get less MPG, and a slight powr loss due to less than optimal combustion.
Sure, its an annoying mess of piping and hoses, but it does serve several purposes.
However... On later model cars/engines that use a combi valve and air injection pump instead of conventional EGR system, you can delete those systems and the ECU will adapt much better than if you deleted an EGR system in an older car. Just because newer ECU/ECM's are soooo smart.
I CERTAINLY noticed regained power after cleaning my EGR port, etc. The engine litteraly sounded like it was breathing easier, which it is.
Last edited by Jamaha80; 07-19-2008 at 10:28 AM.
07-22-2008, 07:07 PM
#73
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 481
I finally cleaned my EGR tube yesterday, what a PITA ! The studs and bolts were rusted so much that the ratchet was spinning freely on the studs. I had to put a second nut behind the old one and managed to take the suds out.
The top opening of egr tube was completely blocked as well as the egr port inside IACV.
There was no gasket on the bottom of egr tube. Also, I couldn't install the gasket behind this port but I think it will be fine.
When I was there I also cleaned IACV and Throttle Body (even though they were cleaned 4 months ago)
After the cleaning, in addition to 0302 that I had before , a 0401 popped up (intake air temp sensor). So I unplugged it, plug it back and reset the ecu.
The car feels smoother, shifts a little better (it's auto) and feels a bit more powerful.
May be it's placebo, or because I cleaned IACV and TB again ? Will see if CEL doesn't come back.
Any way, thanks to 2da mizzax and everybody for their help !
The top opening of egr tube was completely blocked as well as the egr port inside IACV.
There was no gasket on the bottom of egr tube. Also, I couldn't install the gasket behind this port but I think it will be fine.
When I was there I also cleaned IACV and Throttle Body (even though they were cleaned 4 months ago)
After the cleaning, in addition to 0302 that I had before , a 0401 popped up (intake air temp sensor). So I unplugged it, plug it back and reset the ecu.
The car feels smoother, shifts a little better (it's auto) and feels a bit more powerful.
May be it's placebo, or because I cleaned IACV and TB again ? Will see if CEL doesn't come back.
Any way, thanks to 2da mizzax and everybody for their help !
08-12-2008, 10:05 AM
#75
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 127
I have a 95 gxe with 168k throwing a P0400 code. I had to pull the Intake Manifold during a different repair, so I checked the port in the IM and the tube. There was some carbon buildup, but it was over 50% clear. I ran a 10" long spring down the tube to make sure the rest of it was clear.
I don't think the problem is a clog, so I am about to start the diagnostics from the Nissan Service Manual.
I don't think the problem is a clog, so I am about to start the diagnostics from the Nissan Service Manual.
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