Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

yes i am working at 5 in the morning lol. i get off work at 12am and i get to stay up with the baby so my wife can sleep. And i work on the the EU when the baby is sleeping lol

I double checked my jumpers last night(morning) all seemed in place. I did have the Crankshaft(pos) wire on pin 50 instead of 49. I also had the the wire from pin 49 hooked up to pin 50. damn all those white wires on that row. but anyways i did hook it all back up and i got the same result. But im sure that that wasnt helping.

When i get back from work tonight i will double check my wire again

Now the fustration is kicking in. I am just itching to play with the EU and i cant

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

well i checked all connections again. and checked all jumpers again. and i still have the same results I also rolled back the firmware to 1.08 and that didnt do anything except ask me if i wanted to communicate in real time over and over. either later on tonight or tommorrow i am just going to rewire everything again. i dont think i have a problem with my wiring since i checked all the continutiy to all the connections from the eu to the harness.

I happened to data log the whole 3-5 secs it ran so maybe someone can kindly point to the direction where i might be having the problem.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

F*ck it. Im redoing all my wiring from scratch again. Here is going to be my troubleshooting list.

1. dissconnect all EU wires from ECU harness.
2. Reconnect all spliced or intercepted wires(IE injectors and coils)
3. Plug in just the male and female side in maxima.
4. pending if car works correctly(ie not missing or anything like that) reconnect all EU wires again. And if it doesnt its my harness. which i really really hope it isnt.

but if anyone sees anything out of the ordnary on my data log please let me know. At this point i cant pinpoint what my problem is and its really getting on my nerves. so what better way to try to remedy that by starting from scratch again(kinda)

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

So wait, it started and ran for a few seconds and than wouldn't start or run again? UhOh, please don't tell me you are a '99............?

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

it says in his sig he has a 1997 GXE 5 speed

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

ECU been pulled. I need to pull more on the harness. Sounds like you need to take the center console out to remove those pesky tie straps. Am I right?

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

car is 97
female side is 98
male side 97

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

What are you referring to? Coils?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

NATS, I imagine.

slow97maxima

iTrader: (5)

data log doesnt really help, are you still getting the red light? if so then im gonna go ahead and say its still wiring issue.

At the moment im having troubles switching from duration (PW) instead of Duty Cycle. No matter what i input in the I/J Adj. Map (now that the units are in duration) it doesnt change the output of the injectors. But thats a whole other story in which greddy are trying to figure out now

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Car side and female side match, that's what matters, the ecu connectors luckily come with all pins attached to the circuit board thank god. Else I'd be screwed. Probably not a "missing link" so to say. Either a misconnection in your wiring, or something like that (error) I doubt it's a bad unit, higly doubt, but it's always a possibility, was it new?

You might have to start checking continuity for things that are crucial yet just get tapped, like crank sensor, maf, etc. And follow and double check you connected all the pins right on the patch harness, might want to really go to town on that. Also, if you haven't done so, #1 step in diagnosing all electrical problems = check the fuse. Than see what your missing= spark, fuel, injectors......

Some of what I said might have been covered, long day.


Oh, yeah, forgot if you're an auto than yeah, pull console to disconnect TCU connections, the other wireharness sections that run up to the dash you can reach around to get them, or if your auto just wait until you have the radio out anyways. but nah the tie's can be snipped, will make life mush easier. They sell new nissan zip ties at home depot, lowes, autozone, walmart, etc.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Correct, pin #17 to be precise. I almost missed that one in making someone's patch harness for a '99 using a '98 harness, because AFAIK it's not listed at all anywhere whatsoever in the EC section. I hoe there isn't any other "hidden" pins that aren't contained on the '98 harness yet are used on a '99 ecu.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

well i rewired the ECU harness all back together(female to male) and tried it out. It did the same exact thing when i had all my wiring from the EU going to it. so its obviously the rats nest i got going on with the harness...

As i speak i am doing a continuity check on all the wires so far i have one bad wire pin#120 vaccum cut bypass? i looked into the fsm more on it and it tells me that it has to to with the evap? I dont think this would cause my car to do what it is doing but maybe it might

I will be going though more of teh wires and hopefully figure it out..........

eng92

iTrader: (3)

You should be using the circuit diagram when making a harness as well as the terminal listing. Pin 17 is shown on the '99 circuit diagram.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Ahhh, yes! I see that now, ec13 FTW. Very hard to see, gotta really zoom in 'eh. Anyways, thanks Eng92, I double checked that and it appears that asides from pin#17, everything else is also covered in the terminal listing, I went through it quickly though so feel free to double check me as I will also be triple checking myself later. But if I had started there I would have realized pin#17 was missing from my chart long before common sense told me "hey wait, I don't have anything for Nat's". Anyways your help has been immense, from posts regarding soldering tips, to an e-mail with pics from somebody else of your pin removal, I finally got it and it really does only take like 5 seconds now.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

If you're working on a '99, I sure hope you saw my thread discussing wiring etc..

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....9537&highlight

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Saw your carbon-fiber overlay thread also Looks nice. But anyways, Dandy has added the info about the crank pin being different, are there any other faults you found in the '99 FSM?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Thank you.

True. Dan got that from me. He also gives the impression you might have to set JP13 to open.... well it's not a might for the 99, it's a must. I really can't speak about any other faults as I don't remember the exact specifics, but I do remember discovering A LOT of faults with the 99 manual. I then abandoned the idea of a patch harness and only focused on the wires that would be directly affected by the installation since I was then hijacking/tapping the OEM harness. Sorry I can't be of more help.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Alright, I have started working on bigpulve's harness. Got the female ECU connector off the ECU board. Im looking at dandymax's writeup, and was wondering what wires you guys used off the EU harness? Did you use only the ones that he lists in the A32 chart?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Yes. And I found it easier to go by the diagrams during labeling, otherwise I would confuse myself while jumping back and forth betwwn the two columns to match the eu & ecu pin #'s. than the chart was used just as a checklist.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

well i think i am done with the harness and i am going to hardwire it in. there is only one more thing i am going to try and that is to take the broken off screw that is in the ecu and use a new one. i dont see this making it work though seeing that when i put the actual harness w/o screw it works good. I pray that is the case but im not counting on it. The weird thing about it when it starts it seems like everything is perfectly fine then it shuts down completly after about 5-8 secs. then i go to restart the car and it doesnt want to start. hmm maybe it might be that screw. i checked for codes as well to maybe point me into the direction of the crazyness going on


P0180(Tank fuel tempture) maybe a possiblity,maybe it doesnt sense a temp so it automatically shuts everything down???
P0125(engine coolant tempture sensor) which i know is bad cause i dont have it hooked up

Either which way i will do the bolt and fix the codes and try it one more time.............................................. ..................



mohf i belive that you use everything off the a32 chart. the thing that you will be adding thou is the +12 volt for the 00vi(vias) pin 16 off the EU harness.I belive


EDIT: Updated OP to put in links

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

Im pretty sure I had most of the wires labled prior to sending it to him because I was going to make it myself but well...I suck at teh wires...

Also kyle Just to let you know my car is a 95 fed auto...forgot to mention that.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

<---------- also sucks at wiring

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Come on now, who doesn't like wiring?



Electrical will be fun, but getting it out of the car was absolute hell.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the response and help krrz350 and lock.

I saw the labels, they helped a lot, thanks.

Alright, time do DL the FSM. Good thing danymaxs writeup isn't year specific('cept for 99s).

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

Yea I dont have half the emmisions stuff that the 96s+ do...my TS ecu is a 96 and I have lots o codes a going on...

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

damn dude you dont have the fsm. that thing is like my bible!! I only wish i had a consult to do half the stuff that they have in the fsm. lol i have 3 fsm's 96,97,01

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

http://www.vq35de.com/ESM/Nissan/Maxima/

Now you can have them all (I do).

Or do you mean the physical FSM? I need to grab one at some point.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

no i wish i had 3 fsms in a hardcover or even one for that matter

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

I do, for my 97...heh. Working on his harness. I use mine all the time, its my 2nd bible.

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

I still havent downloaded mine.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

omfg finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So obviously i gave up on the harness and i am pretty down about it. i really wish i would of gotten this to work i am seriously bummed out about it.

but anyways i hardwired it in today.defently a chore to do i wound up taking the ecu out and is now lying on the passenger side floor man you guys arent kiddin when you say the ecu is a pia to get out. i had to to the one click method with a rachet on the passenger side bolt.

but she started right up! but then i did a wot run and it seemed like it was hampered\ missing\ i wired something up wrong. so i get home and i run the codes to see what might be wrong. i get the good ole 0325 knock sensor. so i am like great did i fry it or something. i knew my connection to it was good. but reading dandymaxs write up it kinda seem like i dont really need it hooked up so i snipped it and whala no more 0325

anyways i have played with the rev-limit a bit and manage to extend it to 6800 but i still have some adjusting to get it to 7000-7100.

here is a picture of my mess and dirty floor(but it works!!!!!!!!!!!)



Now on to the LC-1 which hopefully will be monday

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

Congrats. Yea sometimes hardwiring is the way to go. Are you auto or manual?

VQrebuild96

iTrader: (1)

I think he is mt since he is extending his revv limiter.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

5 speed... got that bish up to 7200 right before i went to sleep. i still need to smooth out the transition from the rev limit to 7200 though since sometimes it goes up to 7200 and some times it cuts at around 6900

slow97maxima

iTrader: (5)

lock, when you start tuning your A/F (well that is if you have a wideband yet), tell me if it works when you use Duration to change the fuel values. For the past 2 weeks ive been back and forth on the phone with greddy trying to get them to figure out why it doesnt work. Using duty cycle works properly but as soon as i use duration the inputs and outputs of the fuel stay the same no matter what numbers i input in the I/J Adj. Map.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

hmm... yeah i will hopefully get the wide band in tommorrow or later on this week. (lc-1)

as for the i\j adj map, i can change the duration w\o the wideband hooked up might be a diffrent story with it hooked up though. i havent even tried to mess with the duty cycles and the percentages yet.

I take it that you have updaded the firmware so we can probley rule that out. are your running 2.16?


i went up to super america to test out the limiter and while under no load(ie pushing the clutch in) it revs to like 7400. but when it is under load i can only rev to like 6800 so there is more work to be done

but on a funny note when i pulled up to super america i smelt oil burning so i was like great wtf did i blow up. but then i saw that i was parked next to a civic and when i came out of the store i seen a intercooler so im suspecting it was the honda cause i havent smelt burning oil from my car ever since.

but man i would deffently like to try to run that guy N\A

slow97maxima

iTrader: (5)

when you say you can 'change' the duration, do you mean when you input numbers in the map and data log a run, the I/J input duration and I/J output duration are different (they would be different where you made changes in the I/J ADJ map)? Like i can put any numbers i want all over the Adj. map and nothing will change the output duration.

Yes i was running 2.16, reverting to 2.0 to try and fix and it didnt help.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

yes when i make a adjustment to my map i know there is change taking place cause i have only messed with adjusting the duration past 6500(ie removing the rev limiter)
have you raised your limiter yet?

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

without having tuned on a dyno or anything, what are you feeling comfortable with tweaking right now?

basically, what im saying is the only reason i havent installed my EU yet is because i figured its not gonna do me any good right now cuz i havent planned out my dyno session yet...so im trying to figure out how you're making adjustments. i know i can make some minor adjustments but dont wanna risk anything.