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driveshaft removal and installation

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Old 03-18-2008, 10:52 AM
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driveshaft removal and installation

my wheel side drive shaft boot just busted so i bought a new axle and now need to install it. just a couple questions.

1. "To remove the left halfshaft on vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle, the right halfshaft must be removed first."
i don't understand this. why do i need to remove the right drive shaft first in order to remove the left?

2. what size is the wheel bearing lock nut? I don't have a breaker bar but could it be unscrewed w/ a regular socket wrench?

3. after you remove the knuckle, is it just simply, pull and pry the old axle out, lubricate and insert the new one, and your done?
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Old 03-18-2008, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by g4nismo
my wheel side drive shaft boot just busted so i bought a new axle and now need to install it. just a couple questions.

1. "To remove the left halfshaft on vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle, the right halfshaft must be removed first."
i don't understand this. why do i need to remove the right drive shaft first in order to remove the left?

2. what size is the wheel bearing lock nut? I don't have a breaker bar but could it be unscrewed w/ a regular socket wrench?

3. after you remove the knuckle, is it just simply, pull and pry the old axle out, lubricate and insert the new one, and your done?
1. Sorry, don't know

2. 33mm? Motorvae or somewhere has that information documented, just look for it.

Breaker bar? Breaker bars are for pussies.......ask Kevlo.......if you're using a socket driver, as long as it's craftsman or something with a lifetime guarantee...who cares.....but a 3/8in driver might not like you very much

3. As long as you hear the "click" yes, it's that easy....just make sure you hear the 'click'
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
1. Sorry, don't know

2. 33mm? Motorvae or somewhere has that information documented, just look for it.

Breaker bar? Breaker bars are for pussies.......ask Kevlo.......if you're using a socket driver, as long as it's craftsman or something with a lifetime guarantee...who cares.....but a 3/8in driver might not like you very much

3. As long as you hear the "click" yes, it's that easy....just make sure you hear the 'click'
alright, thanks, checked motorvate, its a 36mm. as for the 1st question, guess i'll have to find out
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by g4nismo
my wheel side drive shaft boot just busted so i bought a new axle and now need to install it. just a couple questions.

1. "To remove the left halfshaft on vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle, the right halfshaft must be removed first."
i don't understand this. why do i need to remove the right drive shaft first in order to remove the left?
You don't.


Originally Posted by g4nismo
2. what size is the wheel bearing lock nut? I don't have a breaker bar but could it be unscrewed w/ a regular socket wrench?
(EDIT: oops, 36mm) for the stock axle nuts. You could, but chances are they'll be so tight you can jump up and down on the ratchet but they won't move. If you do a fair amount of work on your car, pick up a cheap electric impact, or a compressor and a pneumatic impact. Makes the job a lot easier.

Originally Posted by g4nismo
3. after you remove the knuckle, is it just simply, pull and pry the old axle out, lubricate and insert the new one, and your done?
No need to completely remove the knuckle. What I do it take off the caliper and hang it on the spring, remove the ABS harness from the strut and knuckle (if so equipped), undo the two top strut-knuckle bolts, and push the knuckle and LCA down far enough to get the axle out of the hub.

After that, since you're going to be replacing the axle, you can basically do a slide-hammer style yank on the axle and it should pop right out. A flat crowbar () actually works pretty well too, if you don't have it high enough to use a pry bar.

After that, slam the new one home (make sure the circlip seats into the diff properly), reassembly everything, and you should be good to go.

Last edited by pmohr; 03-18-2008 at 02:57 PM.
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Old 03-18-2008, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
You don't.




(EDIT: oops, 36mm) for the stock axle nuts. You could, but chances are they'll be so tight you can jump up and down on the ratchet but they won't move. If you do a fair amount of work on your car, pick up a cheap electric impact, or a compressor and a pneumatic impact. Makes the job a lot easier.



No need to completely remove the knuckle. What I do it take off the caliper and hang it on the spring, remove the ABS harness from the strut and knuckle (if so equipped), undo the two top strut-knuckle bolts, and push the knuckle and LCA down far enough to get the axle out of the hub.

After that, since you're going to be replacing the axle, you can basically do a slide-hammer style yank on the axle and it should pop right out. A flat crowbar () actually works pretty well too, if you don't have it high enough to use a pry bar.

After that, slam the new one home (make sure the circlip seats into the diff properly), reassembly everything, and you should be good to go.

alright, thanks a lot! i'll finish this off this weekend...
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Old 03-19-2008, 08:16 AM
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Is it easy to replace the transmission seal at the same time? My car is auto and it is pretty old. Next time I replace the drive shaft, I like to replace the seal, too. Where do you find the tool to protect the seal during axle insertion?
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by UncleMax98
Is it easy to replace the transmission seal at the same time? My car is auto and it is pretty old. Next time I replace the drive shaft, I like to replace the seal, too. Where do you find the tool to protect the seal during axle insertion?
don't you just pull it off from the transaxle? it should be simple.
if there is leakage around and on the seal, is it not okay to just wash and clean the seal instead of buying a new one?
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