Hello fellow .org memers, well i was supposed to buy a cbr600 this spring but i ended up spending alot of money on my car instead...lol. Ok so i'm planning on doing the 00vi swap along with other mods next week so i need to gather all my parts before i start opening up the engine. So far i have got...

00 lower intake manifold
00 upper intake manifold
00 fuel injectors
00 fuel rail
00 throttle body (getting port and polished right now)
new gaskets for lower and upper intake manfolds
weapon R fuel rail adapter
z32 TT MAF with pigtail
Apexi NEO
Oil cooler kit
OBX headers and y-pipe
magnaflow high flow cat
stillen catback
tune and dyno scheduled for next monday (i'll post up some numbers then)

I'm just wondering if i need the rear coil packs from a 2000 maxima or if i could use the coil paks from my '96? Does anyone have any advice or anything i should be aware about when installing the 00vi? Am I missing anything for the 00vi swap that i should really consider getting?
Me and a couple of friends rented out Atco raceway so i'll post up some timeslips in a couple weeks. I ran 14.9 at 90 MPH last year with just an intake so i'm pretty excited to see what i can pull this time. I hope i drop into the low 14's which would be pretty nice.

 

Thats a pretty big list to tackle, make sure you have all your tools handy it will save time looking for tools. You DO need the 00 real coils for the the 00 lower manifold UNLESS you grind down one of the coil, bosses the 96 coils will work. Good Luck!!!

 

thanx alot. I think i'm just gonna grind down the coil to save myself a pretty penny. I'll try to keep this post updated as often as possible. Thanx for your help

 

you need the 00 coils for the 00 LIM?...those items arent related.

You should have the 00 rear valve cover and rear coils but you dont have to. instead, like said, you can grind down the bosses to make it fit right. Also, I thought you didnt need a fuel rail adapter if you are using both a 00 fuel rail and a 00 LIM.

 

Were is that write up on the 00vi options and installations? It was on the nico forum page, but I can't find it anymore.

 

well the 00vi that i bought came without one and i figured i would buy a bigger one for easier fuel flow.

 

Good catch I did mean upper mani sorry for the slight mis info

 

All motor forums there are tons of 00vi write ups

ya i assumed thats what you meant.

 

What is this "oil cooler kit". Are you referring to an actual 'radiator' type thing (like the tranny cooloer) or some other mechanism (like the oil filter magnet that keeps stuff in the filter)?

 

Many of the links in the all motor forum that reference the 00vi swap doesn't even work. does anyone know the link to the nico forum site that has many pics and notes.

 

You need the fuel rail adapter if you did not recieve the fuel damper from the 00 maxima, and yes if you did not recieve either the 00 coils or 00 rear valve cover you will have to use the 4th gen rear valve cover and coils, but in order to do so you need to grind down the bosses. If I remeber correctly I only grinded down one boss but I could be wrong. Are you going with egr or no egr? I reccomend egr so you dont throw a code and its pretty easy to do no modding whatsoever just keep it loose when you are lowering the uim to the lower and then slot the egr in the uim and bolt everything down it worked very easily for me.

Also what are you doing for IACV 4th or 5th?

 

Goodluck with the job.post numbers and pics if possible....when done.

 

Also what are you doing for IACV 4th or 5th?[/QUOTE]

+1..........

 

im using the 5th gen. IACV

 

defently buy some vac hoses especially if your keeping the egr. Mine were just caked on there. If you have the damper with the hose attacted to it like blackmax said it has to be long enough to reach the hardlines underneath the TB.

keep us updated. when are you going to swap the 00vi?

Also heres some reading matrial
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=121423
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=00vi
Tatanko's Website

Good luck!

 

Ok, well check my thread in the all motor forum, I tried to update a lot of the links.

Also, just a tip for grinding down the rear valve cover: Grind down a little at a time! Dont cut it! if you grind down further than like 3/4" then there is a hole, and you have to fill it. Grind, test fit, grind, test fit, etc until it fits. Better off that way.

 

did you also relocate the pcv valve?

 

Good luck on the swap.

 

Ok, I have run into a problem. I noticed that I needed the '00 injector pigtails, but I dont know where to buy them. And I didnt know that I had to relocate my pcv valve, I thought that I just had to replace it?

 

your best bet for that would be a local junkyard. check www.car-part.com for yards near you that have DE-K parts. To be honest, since you're basically using all 5th gen components for the swap, you really should consider getting the 5th gen rear valve cover while you're at it. this way you won't have to bother with grinding down the coil bosses and you can drop in a 2000 maxima PCV valve.

If you can't source the 5th gen rear coils right away, you can temporarily use your 4th gen coils with the 5th gen rear valve cover. I ran my car this way until I bought a complete set of 5th gen coils. I just plugged them in and they seated just fine. Never came loose or had any other problems.

 

Doh!! wish i would of posted earlier.

Yeah crime has it right. Get a 5th gen rear valve cover it makes it so much easier. No fabbing up nothing. but then again it might be hard to find one depending on where you live so fabbing it up might be your only option.

 

you will end up changing to the 4th gen one. 5th gen sucks my *****

 

just curious why you changed? what happened to make you feel that it was so bad that you switched back to the 4th generation?

I have a 5th generation IACV right now and have no complaints what so ever and it runs perfectly fine just a little cold start issue but it is not a big deal to me as I am used to it. I used to get an even worse cold start issue with the 4th generation IACV so I wouldn't switch back personally.

 

^^ +1 mine works just fine and i need zero adapter

 

Why do you have a Z32 MAF? Just curious. The A32 MAF is more than enough for any NA application.

 

It's bigger, please correct me if I'm wrong, i feel as if more air flow s better. Or am I wrong?

I can't find any 2000-2001 Maxima's around my area in the junkyard. I might as well run the 4th gen rear valve cover for now. I don't understand what i have to do with my PCV, can someone please explain what kind of fabrication I'm looking at here?

In response to the oil cooler kit question, it is a B&M oil cooler kit. I figured it would be a nice way to keep my engine temperature lower.

BTW: I start the swap on wednesday

 

does anyone have a write up for header installation? I couldn't find it on the stickies.

 

Credit BlackBIRDVQ

Alright here is the deal, remove the radiator fans off the radiator- should be just secured with 2 10mm bolts on top and 2 on the bottom of the car. Remove the lower splash shields. Remove the motor mount bolts- that go through the motor mounts and engine mount bracket. Then remove the cross member. After that remove your 02 sensors using a 22mm wrench or a special O2 sensor socket, then remove the whole ypipe off the car. Proceed to remove the front exhaust manifold, you will need to slightly move the AC line in order to get at the left exhaust manifold stud/bolt thats all the way to the left top corner of the manifold. If you have the stock precat on the front manifold (fed spec 3.0Ls do not have it) then you might wanna remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the shield onto the precat, and then get a 12mm THINWALL 3/8" drive socket and 14" long 3/8" drive extension to break the bolts loose from the manifold- you are removing the front precat off the exhaust manifold. After that you will be able to remove the manifold with easse. I found that if you remove the motor mount bracket off the block you do NOT have to remove the precat, it all depends on how you wanna do the job. As far as the rear manifold- jack up the motor so that instead of it sitting in the engine bay like this IIIII it will be sitting in the engine bay like this ///// - this will basically pivot the engine so that the rear cylinder head exhaust manifold bolts are more accessible. Remove the REAR engine mount bracket off the block, the 2 top 14mm bolts are impossible to get at cause there is a metal support brace inside the motor mount bracket that is in the way of the bolts. What I did was use a long pry bar and bend that support brace so that I can get my socket and 14mm rachet on those bolts, then remove the lower bolts off the bracket and you are free to do the manifold bolts. There are only 4 bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the block. After that you can go ahead and use a swivel 14mm socket to remove exhaust manifold bolts and remove the rear precat. I reused my factory exhaust manifold gaskets on the headers- they are metal and will not leak. Install the new headers on the heads HAND tight, so that you can move them around on the exhaust manifold studs, then you need to bolt the Ypipe to the manifolds. After that tighten the exhaust manifold studs tight as ***** and tighten the Ypipe. If you tighten the manifolds tight as he11 1st and then try to install the Ypipe you will not be able to install the Ypipe cause the holes for the exhaust manifold studs are big enough so that when U install the headers your flanges for the Ypipe will be way off. After you install the headers basically install your 02 sensors, install 02 simulator for the rear O2 sensors ( don't bother extending the wires most people get check engine lights from added resistance of the lenghtened 02 sensor wires that throw off the 02 readings).

NOTE- any factory bolt you will try to remove- SPRAY down with *PB BLASTER* it works alot better than WD40 as a penetrating fluid.

It took me 2 hours to do my headers, with a oil change and evacutating the AC system plus removing the high side line off the compressor- as the primary 02 sensor hits the AC compressor and line on the 3.0L with HS headers.

I could do a 3.0L header install in bout a hour now... 8 hours is highway robbery. Take it from someone who rebuilds his own trannies and engines. I don't let ANYONE touch my ride.

 

also

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=install+obx
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=install+obx

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=538119

See post 1 for the link in the info about valve cover use, and post 82 of how I modded it.

GL man.

 

i need a 5th gen. valve cover shipped to 08882 or i can pick up if in central jersey

Thank you very much for the info on the headers, it was really helpful.
and thank you on the info for the pcv valve but i've decided to buy the rear valve cover

 

do i need to prop up my engine if i remove the cross member and the back and front motor mount?

 

you don't have to, the other two will support the weight of the engine. I would support it with a wood block and a floor jack though for peace of mind, and that may also make things easier to reinstall/realign.

 

thank you much, this project has become one big headache, but its starting to come together

 

sounds awesome

I'd do it in a heartbeat if I had the money

 

where did u get ur gaskets?

 

Ok sorry about not updating but I ended up towing my car to my mechanic since obx decided to make these headers completely incompatible. I have run into a problem though I can't seem to find a fuel rail adapter that connects to a 00 fuel rail and leads to the fuel return hose, where would i be able to find these

 

weapon-r.com you need the 2.0 Liter nissan one not the 3.0 Liter nissan one, they have the sizing wrong for the 3.0 Liter and the 2.0 Liter one is the right size for our car...

 

I knew that and should have spoke up, my bad. Plenty of others have had issues with these, check the All Motor forum.

Also, in regards to the Z32 MAF...it is bigger, yes, but your stock tubing is fine for the 3.0L NA.

 

They still sell them but you need to contact the person directly.