How to install headers?
#2
Remove Y-pipe
Remove O2 sensors
Remove header heat shields
Remove front header
Remove rear header
Install front header
Install rear header
Torque to spec
Install Y-pipe
Torque to spec
Install O2 sensors
Torque to spec
Drive and enjoy.
Remove O2 sensors
Remove header heat shields
Remove front header
Remove rear header
Install front header
Install rear header
Torque to spec
Install Y-pipe
Torque to spec
Install O2 sensors
Torque to spec
Drive and enjoy.
#3
I do believe, however, you forgot the beer breaks, the wrench flinging, and the cursing.
#5
I don't think you will get a much better picture than this-
loosen the EGR tube on the engine side, then remove the pipe from the header side. Other than that, it's just the six bolts for the header tubes.
loosen the EGR tube on the engine side, then remove the pipe from the header side. Other than that, it's just the six bolts for the header tubes.
#6
#8
#11
#12
I was gonna say, you gotta probably pull the engine to do it "easy" as noted by Mtrai! Lol at the whole 20 minutes. I have looked at it, not tried it, but just looked and said no thanks. And, I rebuilt my 5spd .... and still say no thanks, not w/o pulling the engine.
Why are you doing headers, what brand, how much ... details mate, come on!
Why are you doing headers, what brand, how much ... details mate, come on!
#13
You'll have to work from below and above. When I installed my Cattman Headers, I removed the upper intake manifold to gain access to the tricky bolts that I couldn't get from below. I never had to deal with/remove the center support brace supporting everything from underneath. I felt removing the UIM was much easier.
And yes, there was lots of cursing when removing the rear heat shield.
And yes, there was lots of cursing when removing the rear heat shield.
#15
You'll have to work from below and above. When I installed my Cattman Headers, I removed the upper intake manifold to gain access to the tricky bolts that I couldn't get from below. I never had to deal with/remove the center support brace supporting everything from underneath. I felt removing the UIM was much easier.
And yes, there was lots of cursing when removing the rear heat shield.
And yes, there was lots of cursing when removing the rear heat shield.
#16
Yeah, that's how most people seem to do it. IMO, I still think going the UIM route is easier though.
#17
You'll have to work from below and above. When I installed my Cattman Headers, I removed the upper intake manifold to gain access to the tricky bolts that I couldn't get from below. I never had to deal with/remove the center support brace supporting everything from underneath. I felt removing the UIM was much easier.
And yes, there was lots of cursing when removing the rear heat shield.
And yes, there was lots of cursing when removing the rear heat shield.
#18
i removed both the UIM and the lower crossmember for super easy access up top and below. even though its a bit more work, it makes the job a bit easier.
i highly recommend the swivel closed ended ratchet wrenches. those definitely came in handy as its pretty much the main tool i used for the extremely tight spots.
there are numerous threads on header installation. search function is your friend.
i highly recommend the swivel closed ended ratchet wrenches. those definitely came in handy as its pretty much the main tool i used for the extremely tight spots.
there are numerous threads on header installation. search function is your friend.
#19
On a side note, I don't think I could put the heat shield back if I wanted to.....it's mangled to ****.
#20
#21
My hat goes off to you and anyone else who can remove the heat shield in perfect condition with no dents or deformation. IMO, removing the shield is a royal PITA. I felt like I was playing Tetris as I slowly wiggled it out/beat on it with a hammer and pipe. Same thing occurred when Ptatohed and I removed his heat shield on his 99 simply for weight reduction.
#22
- Flush Radiator of Coolant
- Take out Radiator/Fans and Condenser (not exactly sure if I removed mine...you'll see if you need to or not)
- Remove O2 Sensors
- Remove Y-Pipe
- Remove Front Header Heat Shields
- Remove Front Header
- Take out the Intake Air Assembly all the way to the Throttle Body (take off the TB if you plan to clean it and if you do take off the IACV as well - don't forget to replace the gaskets!!)
- Remove all the hoses/sensors/wires connect to the Upper Intake Manifold
- Remove UIM (prior to re-installing...clean the hell out of it)
- Remove Rear Header Heat Shields
- Remove Rear Header (take out the EGR Tube by unscrewing the big bolt - you might have to remove the crossmember - I did and it made work much easier)
- Install Rear Header
- Install EGR Tube
- Install UIM
- Install Front Header
- Install Radiator/Fans/Condenser
- Install TB/IACV/Air Intake Assembly
- Install O2 Sensors
- Install Y-Pipe
Here is some tips or things you'll probably run into...
- REPLACE ANY GASKET YOU TAKE OFF WITH OEM NISSAN ONES. Don't be cheap, do it right, and do it once.
- There is two bolts on the back of the UIM under the 'flap'. You can see it on the picture posted above. They might be hard to get to, and the only way to get to them is from the top.
- Have at least two cans of WD-40 or similar around handy, your stuff is probably rusted to hell
- Don't get discouraged. I spread my full-exhaust replacement out over 4 days working 4 hours a day.
- When re-installing the EGR tube into the header, loosen the end on the engine block to give yourself room to play with. That's what I had to do to make it work.
#23
I wouldn't worry to much about the rear heat shield. If it bothers you enough, you can always buy some heat shield blanket stuff sold at Home Depot and wedge it between the engine and the firewall.
On a side note, I don't think I could put the heat shield back if I wanted to.....it's mangled to ****.
On a side note, I don't think I could put the heat shield back if I wanted to.....it's mangled to ****.
yeah I don't have the rear one either mine had to come off in two pieces :P
I'm just worried that the cast iron manifold will get hotter than the ceramic coated and burn something. I guess I can always use heat wrap
#25
#26
My hat goes off to you and anyone else who can remove the heat shield in perfect condition with no dents or deformation. IMO, removing the shield is a royal PITA. I felt like I was playing Tetris as I slowly wiggled it out/beat on it with a hammer and pipe. Same thing occurred when Ptatohed and I removed his heat shield on his 99 simply for weight reduction.
And that must be some extensive weight reduction to worry about the heat shields!
#29
#31
My hat goes off to you and anyone else who can remove the heat shield in perfect condition with no dents or deformation. IMO, removing the shield is a royal PITA. I felt like I was playing Tetris as I slowly wiggled it out/beat on it with a hammer and pipe. Same thing occurred when Ptatohed and I removed his heat shield on his 99 simply for weight reduction.
#32
Amen to that man I tried taking mine off the other day and found out that with my entire 120 piece socket set not one size fit. one of the bolts on top is a 10mm and the other one is to big for a 9mm and to small for a 10mm I dont know what to do except break the crap out of the thing.
But yeah, it's damn near impossible sometimes. I feel yah.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MaxLife17
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
43
06-27-2019 01:37 PM