Aidan2474

I have a '96 I30 with 195k and the compressor just stopped working this afternoon. When I turn on the a/c, the compressor doesn't engage. This happened like twice before last year, then I would hit a bump in the road and it would work again within 10 minutes of it cutting out. Hasn't happened for a year.
This time it doesn't seem to be kicking back on. I've read the sticky for the a/c compressor bearing, but in the video it shows the compressor engaging, mine doesn't. I also know that there is a FSB for faulty wiring, but I shook all the wiring harness and still nothing happened.
So I am not sure if it is wiring or a bad compressor.
I checked the fuses and everything is good.
The air was freezing cold in the morning, this after noon nothing.
I checked under the engine and removed the plastic shield, the compressor doesn't move when I hit auto on the climate control. So I don't think it is leaking refrigerant.
Anyone have any similar experiences or advice?
Experience with cost to replace?

The car still runs like it did when I bought it with 46k miles, but it is the middle of a Philly summer and it is ***** @ss hot when I have an hour drive each way. I still get about 26-28 mpg (highway) so I am trying to hold off on buying a different car.

Thanks!,
.................................................. ...................
Ok, so I didn't see the post right below mine about the a/c not working on the '97 SE,....
From that post I think what I need to do is check the thermistor, and then take the harness off the compressor and see if there is a current getting to the compressor. I doubt I lost freon. If I still have all that working then I will take it to a shop.
Also, is there a way to bypass the electrical and hook up the compressor to the battery to see if it comes on?

arrocha87

you could buy a low pressure side meter. its a gauge on a hose and its only like 4.99 autozone. it tells you what the psi should be relevant to the outside temp and then you just look at the gauge and see how much psi you have. and its says low, good, danger, for the psi that its reading plus the actual psi

'96MaxGLE

iTrader: (1)

What was your car's manufacture date? I bought an A/C compressor for my '96 (manu in 6/96) and it was the wrong one. Had to buy another one to get my A/C up and running. If you need a new compressor and your I30 was made before 6/96, PM me and I can give you a hell of a deal.

Aidan2474

May sound dumb but, I have never looked for a manufactures date on my car,.. where would that be?

SVI30

Tap the A/C relay with a screw driver handle while the angine and A/C is running.

Aidan2474

If the a/c relay is under the hood on the passenger side, in the black box,.. then I have taken the a/c relay off and put it back on already,.. and still nothing,...

-thanks

SVI30

Did you find another similar relay and swap them?

Aidan2474

no, I was going to see if I get any current at the wiring harness that attaches to the compressor, not sure if this would be a valid test?
Its hard to get at though, I have to wait until the engine is cool enough, because its far down in the engine between the radiator and the front of the block.

Can I jump the compressor directly to the battery?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

that is not a valid test. tap the relay or replace with a known good one.
also check that voltage is actually getting to the relay.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

It's probably be a better idea to swap the relays with a known good one. If you're worried about the harness, you can probably test the harness with a voltmeter. Making a jumper straight to the battery doesn't give me the warm fuzzies with messing with the compressor.

Aidan2474

I took off the relay and tested the relay harness, there is power in the harness. I used a simple light tester and it lit up so...
I went to pep boys and they didn't have the a/c relay, 5 days because they have to order it,...I have to wait for my friend who has a '97 maxima to use my relay in his car.

S14-NEO

well if you have a test light i would check to see if you are getting a clutch engagement signal first before you go messing with relays...you could already have power there and the clutch could just be sticking. start with the obvious first is what i always say.

Aidan2474

I've had this car since '99 and I have never had to mess with an a/c unit before. Where and how would I test the clutch engagement signal?

I can see there is a single wire that goes to the compressor, I'm guessing this is it? Do I have to strip the wire then tape it back up with electrical tape?

S14-NEO

no just unplug it, stick your test light in it and turn the A/C on..see if it lights up.if it doesnt then you know your not getting a signal going to it. you have AUTO climate control i see. i was just helping someone else in another thread about his cliamte control..relays have been known to go bad, but i am not so sure in this case. if you test your compressor clutch power signal and find no power there then i would check to see if your thermistor is bad...a thermistor is basicly a therm. for your evap case. they have been known to go bad and they are a signal supplier to your AC compressor..

SVI30

No, just poke a pin needle thru the insolation and clip the DVM test lead on to the pin. If there is voltage AND GND at the relay socket, likelyhood is the relay at fault.

Aidan2474

The needle thru the wire test was difficult,.. The light on my tester did not light up at all, if the a/c(auto) was on or if it was off. I'm off now to my friends to see if my a/c relay works on his car.

S14-NEO

id also see if your friend has a spare thermistor to plug in if for any reason the relay doesnt do the trick. i honestly dont think he will though unless he works on them as much as i do...i have a test thermistor that i use all the time, makes life alot easier..hehe

SVI30

Actually the relay sockets are clipped into a carrier in the relay box. Each one of them are removable into a single socket making access to wiring underneath easy.

SVI30

There are 3 thermistors, ambient temp sensor in the nose, interior temp sensor in the control unit (behind the small grill), and one more in the evaporator box in the air flow just after the evaporator. The A/C controller use all three. As long as the A/C is in Auto mode or On, the compressor is always on. The thermistor values will cause the fan to run at different speed according to a value table.

The compressor relay is controlled by the ECU and not the A/C controller directly, e.g. if your TPS angle is large, the ECU will cut out the compressor.

Aidan2474

well my a/c relay worked in my friend's '97 maxima.

So now from what I believe yous are trying to get me to understand is that I am down to three options here;
1. one of the three thermistors
2. Low Freon
3. Compressor is shot

I wonder what the shop will tell me this Saturday, I have to get it inspected, so I'll ask him to take a look at it.

'96MaxGLE

iTrader: (1)

the manfacture date is on the driver side door jamb

Aidan2474

Mine was mfg in 2/96... and you are sure this would be the correct replacement compressor? How much would you like to let it go for, including shipping?

pm me, if you would like...

SVI30

Yes, check the high side and low side pressure against spec, fill if necessary. You will be able to determine if the compressor is bad with the gauge set.

S14-NEO

i could have sworn in a previous post he said he wasnt getting power to the compressor..

SVI30

If the pressure isn't right, the triple pressure switch will stop the compressor.

S14-NEO

agreed, i thought he said earlier thast his freon level was fine, but aparently i may be mistaken..hehe

Aidan2474

Well all is good , I needed a shot of Freon and the a/c came right back on. Not sure if there is a leak or how slow or fast it may be, but at least I know nothing is wrong with my compressor or anything else.

Thanks for your help guys.
My mechanic charged me $60