1998 170k miles
Ok this is gonna be long and im a noob so bare with me if you can
first the questions

Can a bad knock sensor turn off your car?
or alternator?
i put more oil in my car than it needs worst that can happen, car turn off?
around my air filter there is a orange foam bits and pieces have been torn off.. if any of this get inside engine..would it turn off my car?
bad spark plugs?
i know MAF sensor will turn it off and one time i didnt plug it in right and drove like 6 blocks with it hanging out a little bit.


the first time i had this problem was then i took a fast turn.. maybe at like 45 ish the steering wheel shakes weird like left right and left right all the way down the turn and when i got close to the end of it, it wouldnt let me accelerate, i popped car into neutral and back into D and power came back. so that was my first acceleration problem, which i think is connected to my other problem.. My car dies at weird times and random times i had never seen it do this ever. untill after that turn. what i mean by weird times is.
In Park, accelerating slowing, changing gears-not sure about this one but maybe after its changed gears, braking, after car turns off i get the burnt smell, sometimes while accelerating and engine is lacking power and i hear this noise its hard to explain what it sounds likes but if i release pedal and push it again it goes away, power comes back. i think most importantly only does it when engine is hot. after being driven about a mile or 2. I recently pulled codes from car and it reads Knock Sensor P0325 bank 1 circuit 1 maks a yellow light..not sure if it helps though but its the only code my car has

any input would be great even a good luck post

 

it could be that pieces of ur air filter r stuck in ur MAF or they damaged/dirtied it. change ur air filter if its damaged and take off ur intake, ur intake has a little screen before the throttle body so a chunk of ur filter shouldnt have made it into the engine. Clean ur MAF.

how much extra oil did u use? if u have more than 4 liters (4.25 quarts) u need to drain the rest ASAP.

knock sensor shouldnt make ur car die.

it could be ur alternator but check the above mentioned first

 

you say knock sensor is your only code, but you also say bank 1?
im guessing there are two codes, one for an O2 sensor, and one for the knock sensor.

an O2 sensor wouldnt cause these issues, but it woudlnt help anything,


no, the knock sensor isnt doing ****. you could basically rip it out of your car and drive around normally. it only affects valve timing and fuel consumption.

 

You have to have another code. Knock sensors (as discussed in other posts) will not get a CEL. A lot of oil can be just as bad as a little oil can be. Like said before I suggest you drain that extra oil ASAP! Also make sure there is no damage to your MAFS. How is your car idling? Are the RPMs low or high?

 

P0325 as a global code is KS B1, since many engines have more than one knock sensor.

Also KS retards ignition timing.

That's all, carry on.

 

my rpm usually is around 500-600 in D sometimes car will want to die go low rpm down to like 100 and then rise back up..or drop to 0 and die again.. happens at least 3 times per trip only incity not highway. i was thinking it over about the MAF im gonna see if i can take it off and see if its in good shape. thanks for help guys

 

what about fuel delivery or IACV cleaning?

is your fuel filter OEM?

 

When your car is about to die have you tried to accelerate the car and keep it from dying? If so, does it work?

 

just make sure the MAF is connected correctly, it almost sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere, but a very slight one.

 

not oem bought at autozone so i dont think so.. how much oem cost?

kinda noob question but can i go to any nissan dealership and get oem parts for my max?

 

today i cleaned part of the IACV not everything and put it all together everything worked fine till i hit gas pedal. car died but i messed a tad with the inside of the MAF where the circuit connects to and now car works great i feel no loss in power whatsoever. i think i fixed problem or i may need a MAF pretty soon how much would one cost OEM?

 

granted our cars are pretty old, so they dont usually stock all random parts, but they have the basics for sure man.
for the sake of saving money i would call DAVE BURNETTE at southpoint nissan. he will give you parts at 10% over cost.

i paid $12.50 for my 300zx TT fuel filter - just so you know./

 

nice deal whats the number?

 

Check your spark plugs.

A little too much oil wont normally cause problems. Generally its a little better to have more oil then not enough, this is within reason. (2L vs 4.2L).

MAF can definately cause problems. Try a known good one first to see if that helps. Make sure its plugged in all the way.

IACV could be dirty. Kinda hard to tell, but it could possibly be miss firing. Again, check plugs. I had a weird non consistent miss fire, turns out plugs. The OEM PFR5G11 are good for 60K miles, but ill warn you now. ONLY use NGK plugs in your car. 95% of other plugs seem to cause problems. OEM is NGK-PFR5G-11, they are kinda pricey, but imo its worth it.

Might as well start with the normal 96KM(60K) service. read the stickies, basically consists of: Fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, throttle body cleaning, IACV cleaning, coolant flush, run some cleaner through the injectors.

Be careful cleaning the throttlebody/IACV. It can cause issues because it can clog the fast idle cam..the rest is self explanitory. If you dont want to do it on your own, take it to nissan, but be prepared to drop about 6-800.

Good luck man!

 

It should be in the stickies, but 1-888-254-6060.

 

make sure you ask for dave BURNETTE. there is also a guy there in the part department named dave BARRETT or something ridiculously confusing.

once you get him on the phone, make sure to mention you were referred there by maxima.org