kevinoseguera99

iTrader: (4)

i had the same problem, just hand checked my control arm bushings and those were completly destroyed, switched them out with energy suspensions its now its all good

Macof2003

update??????

PersianCzar

I just changed my passenger side axle in my '96 yesterday for the first time (189k) cuz the cv boot was torn off for awhile and it was starting to clunk on turns when I accelerated. Well afterwards, the series of clunk sounds on turns went away. But still, I hear a clunk on some turns from the driver side.

I had both control arms changed a year ago due to swaying on the highway at 50-60 mph speeds. Definitely helped me keep more "control" of the car on highspeeds.

So this clunking I still have, can't be neither the LCA or passenger axle. Can it be the driver side axle? I see no leakage of grease from cv boot or inner boot. Although it is still rocking the original axle at 189K. Maybe its time???

And finally, tie rod ends can make clunk sounds?

LLZuB

ill join in on the clunking noise club too,

i got it coming from the passenger side of the car, through it was strut mounts, but just changed to coilovers which have new strut mounts and that wasnt it,

im thinking maybe ill try the sway bar end links, its a pretty annoying sound to say the least

96blackVQ30DE

i had the same problem with my car. I ended up fixing my support by removing the cradle, cutting out all of the rust and then just welding in a new support and taping new holes for the cradle bolts. It is easy and cheap, saved me alot of money. I have had it like this for the past year and have had no problems.

95franklin

the parts guy at my local nissan assured me it's my control arms. also my cousin who's a service advisor (and the guy who sold me the car) says it's likely the arms as well.

are nissan control arms the way to go? or are there comparable aftermarket ones? are the energy bushings REALLY worth getting?

the parts guy told me that the control arms came with ball joints and some other stuff (I forget) and recommended (well he said I would probably destroy them in the process) changing the links at the same time.

vilmaxima

Ive got noise also, it is a lot better now than it was before. But dont assume its your control arm bushings right away. Heres what I have changed so far: outer tie-rods, sway bar links, ball joints, and ES control arm bushings(only replaced passenger side so far...it was a PITA to get the old ones out) most small clunks over bumps are now gone. On left turns theres still a grinding noise when giving it gas. Its my axle, which was purchased less than a year ago.(sucks). Look over everything. My passenger side control arm was off a wrecked car with only 5k on it and the bushings looked perfect but needed changing. And yes the ES bushing are worth it. I got the red ones, a lot of people say they squeak but I got no problems with it.

4thgenmaxboy

I've been there and done this on both my 4th and 5th gen maximas. I had an annoying ckunking noise on my 5th gen 03 Max, and on the 98 4th gen max. It seems like everytime you went over a bump you would hear a loud clunking noise mostly on the right side of the suspension, especially on the passengers side. I found out that the rear motor mount had gone bad. Easy fix, buy a tube of urethane used for sealing windshields. Take the motor mount out, and fill the mount with urethane and let it set 48 hrs, and the problem has been fixed. Very easy and a very cheap fix. Now you have a solid mount that won't go bad, and I did all 4 of my mounts, and have been very happy with the results so far. Hope to shed some light on this subject, and hope this will solve your problem.

taeng

ebay has some LCA for $130

Phaedrus220

iTrader: (4)

Do not cheap out on the LCA - I just replaced an ebay POS LCA that was a 'bargain' when I bought it 2 yrs ago - the ball joint fell apart within 2 years/40k. Pay the extra $50-$60 and get OEM through DaveB. I went local dealer b/c the ball joint was dangerous to drive on, needed it immediately, and paid too much



Nismo and Snypa FTW - I've replaced my swaybar end links /bushings while replacing the POS LCA, and my front end has not felt better or quieter in recent memory. But, the sound more accurately described as 'ratchety' continues when I turn under low speed accelaration. It must be the upper strut mount bearing, as I've literally replaced the entire front end suspension in the past 2 years.

hskhan

I have a clunk too and its also there when I brake going forward. Its not there when i'm reverse braking for some reason. Anyone know what this could be?

Took it to the local shop last service and they want me to replace the whole front strut assembly (both sides) for $600. I'm broke and would rather not fork a paycheck over for a noise.

Any help would be appreciated.

Bryanalton

I get a bad clunking/popping/grinding noise when I accelerate and when I hit my brakes in reverse. It sounds like it is coming from the front drivers side engine compartment. I also get it sometimes when making slight turns at low speeds. My CV axles are fine. I can actually feel the clunk in my floor boards. A mechanic friend said he thought it was a motor mount. Any ideas of what it could be?

TreizeRXH

I just purchased a 99 SE 5spd and I'm also having the same problem. Assuming that I decided to change ball joints...how much do you guys think that'd set me back?

G.iwonder

I replaced my bushing on the right side of the control arm because it was destroyed, kept making the car swerve at 50+mph. Car was okay for a while, less noise, drove right, could go 70+ again. Then I started to hear it crunching almost(?) When I turned and after two days it stopped moving entirely.
Tonight, I got off work. Got in, put it in reverse, it backed up, made a horrible noise and stopped moving. Sounded like the car was gonna die so I put it in park n killed it. Turned it back on and tried to go forward, same noise, won't move. Had to put it in neutural and push it to the side of the parking lot. Its not going anywhere. Help?

Violator

If its not your brake caliper stuck in the wheel bc you didn't tighten it then it sounds axle related to me. Maybe you somehow pulled it out of the trans part of the way or separated one of the joints