I have searched for possible fixes to the problem I am having, but have never been able to get any definite answers. I am having a hard starting problem with my 97 SE only after the car is warm. However, if I let the car sit for only a short time, like less than 20 minutes, it starts perfectly fine. I only have the problem after the car has warmed up to operating temperature and has been turned off for 40 minutes up to a couple of hours. During the start attempt, I have plenty of cranking power and it takes several seconds before it will finally start. It starts right up every time when cold or if I only have it off to get gas or something quick. I have replaced the engine coolant temp. sensor and have replaced the starter. I don't have enough money to replace suspect items until the problem is fixed. Has anyone had this problem and if so, how did you fix it? If you have not had this problem, what do you think the problem could be?

 

This sounds like it calls for a little more diagnostics and less part replacement.

I would think the first thing to do next time it happens (always easiest when you can make it happen!) is to check for a spark. Assuming that's there then check to see if fuel is getting delivered to the injectors.

If it's not getting fuel, don't just assume that the fuel pump is faulty, do some diagnostics!

By checking the basics, you can shorten your path to the solution.

 

i had the same problem i have a 95 maxima what i did was tuned it up changed the cam,crank,and knock sensors plugs,fuel filter and air filter..tell this day i dont have that problem anymore and it's been 8 months now..

 

i have a 95 also and it does the same thing, im not throwing any codes and she runs fine other than this high pitched whine i get from timt to time after she warms up and the fans kick in. id like to know what the frick is causing this. possibility that the fuel pump is acting up. does it do it when your below a half a tank or all the time????

 

Fuel level does not affect the problem. It happens every time the car has been turned off for about 40 min. up to a few hours once the car has gotten up to normal temp. I am leaning towards changing the crankshaft position sensors when I get some extra money unless someone has a better suggestion. I keep waiting for someone who has experienced the exact same problem as I do to post what they did to fix the problem, but I'm beginning to think that this is a rare problem.

 

Have you changed the PCV lately and cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve?
Gary

 

Not to be a jerk or anything but ...
PVC - Poly Vinyl Chloride
PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation


For future reference.

 

Not sure what the solution is because it's not that big of a deal for me personally, but my 96 Max does the EXACT same thing you described...

 

My first inclination says ECTS (engine coolant temp sensor) but there are a few threads on this. not really sure if there the same issue causes this problem

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ience-one.html (wth, OP had this problem for a while)

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...must-wait.html


ECTS, IACV and TB should be checked.... also check the ignition switch, they do weird things when they are dying

 

gonna change my PCV see if that helps

 

pcv isnt going to help...

check the fuel pressure regulator hose on the vacuum side... remove it if gas comes out replace the regulator...

 

The first thread you listed was started by the same poster that started this one. Apparently this has been an ongoing problem for whitemax21 for the last four years.

I have this same problem with my '96 despite having recently replaced six spark plugs, one coil pack, air filter, and fuel filter. I guess I have some more things to check now.

 

can it be a fuel injector leaking a bit??..like putting some fuel in the cylinder, and after like an hour or so it evaporates??...

 

ok I have the same problem. starts pretty good when cold. but when hot it coughs and spits on the first try. then I have to crank it again for 5 sec or so before it fires up. cleaned the IACV, TB, EGR. still starts like crap.

i looked at the FIC. the setting doesn't appear to change from cold to hot (the solenoid is extended fully so the cam isn't actuating against the throttle lever). but this would be a problem at cold start, not hot? right??

i've seen posts about the ECTS, but wouldn't that throw a code if it were the fault?

any ideas?

 

bad MAF sensor, was my problem

 

did you have a code? or how did you determine it was the MAF?

 

 

I checked the TPS. it ohms out fine and reads fine with OBDII scanner, but I noticed that with key on engine off, when i rotate the throttle a buzzing noise comes from somewhere down in the engine bay. it sounds like relay chatter. it is not coming from TPS or anywhere near the top of engine. does anyone know if this is normal??

my ECTS appears to be working fine. OBDII scanner reading checks out.

other things that work fine: fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator.

 

yes I'd like to know also.

I started having this problem about 2 months ago. Pulled the codes and had a hard P1335 (crank position sensor) let it go awhile then I started getting a mis-fire, so I checked the sensor, it ohmed out bad, so I replaced it. I am still having this hard starting issue and now I have a BAD random mis-fire. The only code I have now is a P1445 for the evap.

Any other suggestions???

 

Check CPS. Clean MAF. u sure u replaced correct CKPS, there are 2 of em.

 

already got that trouble, fuel regulator gives the right fuel pressure, but leaks a bit on the return side, so after some time u just aint got enough pressure to start the car right away, it takes more time toi the fuel pump to repressurize the lines....try to block your return line to see if it can be a leak to the injectors too...! If its the case u should see that right away...or almost...

 

i had this problem as well. me and my buddie's dad threw a new clutch in my 97 SE and afterwards i had had a few electrical problems which were resolved after i had put a new fuse in my head unit...but i also noticed when i turn the car on from cold it starts like a champ, but if the car is warmed up or is on its way to cooling down and i try to start it it is a very labored start or i have to stop, wait a few seconds and i'll try again and it starts fine

 

For anyone having hard starting issues when your car is warmed up.Per factory instructions, need to test the air intake temp sensor and the coolant sensor and last one sending unit. I had the same problem on a 96 max I had turned out to be the air intake temp sensor, it doesnt throw a code for the sensor but it will throw a p1320 which is the ignition circut. Those sensor help determine the proper timing to start the car usually when the sensor is faulty it will work when cold but when hot it flakes out . Test it with an multimeter.

 

The problem is ignition switch. My 97 Maxima can’t start when temperature reaches 70 degree. However, I start my car in winter without issue. First, I changed battery then coolant temperature sensor. None of these is working. Finally, I changed ignition switch. Problem solved!
See the link for replacing ignition switch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ykT9uCJXSY

 

Yup, samething happened to my '97 Max, my ignition switch went haywire. replaced it nextday good to gooo..

 

It has been a while since originally posting this, but I still have the same issue. Car doesn't care what the outside temperature is. I thought the problem would eventually get worse and throw a code, but nope. The problem showed up when I bought the car with 100k miles and now with almost 280k, I still have the same ole warm start problem. I have noticed though that when I anticipate that the problem will occur-after reaching operating temperature and then sitting for 1-2 hours, I can crank it for about 3 seconds, turn the key off and then back on again and it will start easier than if I keep cranking which still takes about 8 seconds or so. If I let the car sit for 4-5 hours after reaching the operating temperature, the problem doesn't occur. Thanks for posting though. Maybe one day, I will find out what the problem is. I am leaning towards the fuel pump but I don't want to start replacing stuff without knowing if it will fix the problem.

 

I've had the same problem on my '99 for 5+ years. Seems to be very common. Reading through this thread again, there are many suggestions, but the ones that make the most sense to me are (1) faulty fuel pressure regulator hose on the vacuum side (see post #11) and (2) faulty air intake temp sensor (see post #23). I doubt the fuel pump itself would cause this kind of problem without any other symptoms, but even not knowing anything about the fuel pressure regulator hose it seems to be a likely culprit...just a hunch.

Whitemax21, I have the same experience as you: if I crank it for about 1.5-2 seconds, pause, and crank again, it starts up faster than if I let it keep cranking just one time. I am hoping to look into this when I have more time in May, but in the meantime, you should try one of these things and post back!

I also haven't cleaned my IACV/throttle body in about 40k miles so I should probably try that too....

 

Frankly I was too lazy to read everything but I skimmed thru it. Have you looked at or replaced the cam sensor on the passenger side of the engine, on the timing chain cover? I just started having this problem yesterday. I took that sensor out, cleaned its with MAF cleaner and so far so good. If that sensor is bad it will cause extended crank/no start problems.

 

Been having similar problem on my 97 with 182k. It didn't matter if it was warm or cold out or if it had been running or not though. It finally quit starting after a few tries so once i finally got it running again i took it to my mechanic. He ended up replacing my starter, not necessarily because the starter was bad, but because it was a 10 tooth gear. I bought this car used about 6 months ago, so i do not know if the starter was oem or aftermarket. Anyway, he replaced it with an 11 tooth starter and it fires up every time immediately now. You can also really hear the difference between this starter and the old one. He also cleaned up my battery terminals because they were getting corroded.

 

I haven't replaced that. I do know that the seal needs to be replaced as it is leaking a little bit of oil. Do you know if this sensor would cause this problem only after the car has reached operating temperature and then allowed to sit for a little more than an hour?

 

I will check the hose soon and also check into the cost of the air intake temp sensor. Thanks!

 

Does your car do this?
Thats my car. It bugs the **** outta me. But when i come early ii the morning when the engine is cold it starts beautifully ? Not sure i already cleaned tb maf changed knock sensor and spark plugs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0ChRpXC22k&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

I have the EXACT same problem, and would like to get the solution. Reading thru most of the replies and suggested solutions, it appears that replacing ignition switch is the most likely fix. Has anyone had the same problem, replaced ignition switch, and experienced the problem go away??

 

any updates on this thread? I've put in fresh plugs, changed one coil, new starter, cleaned the TB but still have this warm start issue.

 

I think my issue is finally gone. Only problem is, I don't know what the fix was. I just swapped in a complete dek and the warm start problem is finally gone. Most sensors were swapped over from my old 4th gen motor. I did notice that when i removed the crank position sensor,(the one that reads the timing ring) it was covered in metal shavings. The problem is definitely not the ignition switch or the fuel pump because those are still original. The air intake sensor was also switched over. I had replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor long ago, so that wasn't the issue. I am using the cam sensor from the dek, and all fuel components from the dek. I am thinking that the problem was from the shavings on the crank position sensor or maybe the fuel pressure regulator or possibly one or more of the injectors leaking fuel.

 

I have a nice update. So today I decided to clean the camshaft position sensor by the timing chain. There was a lot of oil in that area.

A little on the history of the car, it was always given Mobil 1 5w30 for 75k until I got the car. Friend was adamant about synthetic. So now that the engine is a bit older, the oil seep through some of the leaky seals and was all over this sensor.

I took it out, and hosed it down with the MAF cleaner. Drove around until the car was warm, and turned the car off. It then started right away!

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the info. Sounds promising, but how long did you wait to restart the car? My car starts fine when hot or cold, but when warm (maybe 45-120 minutes after it was last turned off) is when it starts hard.

How long from start to finish to change the CPS?

 

Doesn't take but a minute to change. It is held in by 1 bolt, a 10mm if I remember correctly. This was the exact problem I was having. The camshaft position sensor could be the culprit. I used the one on the dek that I swapped.

 

K, I pulled mine and cleaned the little metal part of the sensor with MAF cleaner. The O-ring looked fine and there was no sign of leakage. What does the sensor contact? Is it exposed to oil anyway, or is it supposed to be in a oil-free environment? If this doesn't work I might try putting in a new sensor.

 

I think it does get a little oil on it from looking at the hole after removing the sensor.

All the sensor is, is a magnet with coils which measures the position of the cam shaft