Any suggestions for more 'howto' tutorials? Post them here.
What I think might be nice to do is a more in-depth FAQ/glossary. Like, instead of just what every acronym stands for, a little blurb about where it is and what it does.
Also, it'd be great if the How-To stickies were a little more organized - there's a lot of dead links and that kind of stuff.
The problem I have with searching is that i'll get a bunch of relevant topics, but many of them will just be a newbie asking a question, then being told to search for it, or being given a simplistic answer. I was searching for PCV valve replacement today, and while I found what I was looking for, it took me about 20-30 minutes to find, because there was so much redundant information, and it was spread across several threads.
I'd be willing to help you get started on a glossary of terms, since I've learned most of them by now.
Also, it'd be great if the How-To stickies were a little more organized - there's a lot of dead links and that kind of stuff.
The problem I have with searching is that i'll get a bunch of relevant topics, but many of them will just be a newbie asking a question, then being told to search for it, or being given a simplistic answer. I was searching for PCV valve replacement today, and while I found what I was looking for, it took me about 20-30 minutes to find, because there was so much redundant information, and it was spread across several threads.
I'd be willing to help you get started on a glossary of terms, since I've learned most of them by now.
The problem I have with searching is that i'll get a bunch of relevant topics, but many of them will just be a newbie asking a question, then being told to search for it, or being given a simplistic answer. I was searching for PCV valve replacement today, and while I found what I was looking for, it took me about 20-30 minutes to find, because there was so much redundant information, and it was spread across several threads.
4th gen Glossary
feel free to add on
Intake and Fuel System:
Fuel filter - small filter located adjacent to the brake booster. Should be replaced periodically. The larger Z32 fuel filter (91-96 300ZX NA or TT) can be used if desired, which will increase the replacement interval, but not add any performance.
Airbox - The black plastic box located behind the battery. Can be modified to the "Ghetto Airbox" or "GAB", which involves drilling many holes in the lower portion, improving intake sound.
Resonator - This is a a small black sealed box located under the battery, which can be removed with no ill effects.
MAF - Mass Airflow Sensor. This is a small black cylindrical piece in the intake path, which measures the air density. If malfunctioning, car will have CEL and will be unable to rev to a high RPM. Can be cleaned with specialty "MAF Cleaner" spray.
TB - Throttle Body - Essentially a cylinder with a pivoting plate in it, controls the amount of air entering the engine. Has two mechanical cable linkages, one for the gas pedal, one for cruise control. Can be cleaned with TB cleaner.
UIM - Upper Intake Manifold. This connects to the throttle body on one end, and splits the intake air into 6 tubes, one for each cylinder.
LIM - Lower Intake Manifold. This is a Y shaped piece that sits between the cylinder banks, separating the 6 ports from the UIM into two sets of 3 ports for the cylinder heads.
USIM - The stock intake manifold on all North American 4th gens. Infamous for the 5500rpm cutoff, where the engine horsepower decreases above 5500rpm.
MEVI - Middle Eastern Variable Intake. This is a variable intake, which has butterfly valves to change the airflow at a certain RPM, which gives performance all the way to redline.
00VI - This is the variable intake from the VQ30DE-K motor found in '00 and '01 5th gens. Similar characteristics to the MEVI. Install is more complicated, but it gives more power.
HAI/Shortram - A short aftermarket intake consisting of a midpipe and a cone filter, where the filter is located directly behind the battery.
CAI - A long aftermarket intake, where the filter is either located behind the fender under the battery, or behind the radiator in front of the engine.
PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation. This is a 1-way valve located under the throttle body that allows vapors from the crankcase to re-enter the intake track, for improved emissions and gas mileage.
IACV - Idle Air Control Valve. This is a valve behind the throttle body, which connects to the intake resonator box with a rubber hose, and controls the idle on the car.
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor. This is a small sensor on the throttle body, that tells the ECU how far open the throttle body is.
IAT - Intake air temperature sensor. This is a small sensor located in the air scoop where it bends to meet the airbox. It measures the ambient air temperature.
EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation. This is a small tube behind the throttle body, infamous for clogging itself. Vents some exhaust gas back into the intake, for improved emissions.
Motor
VC - Valve Cover. This is a piece that covers the camshafts and valves on the three cylinders. Connects to the cylinder heads with a gasket, which can sometimes leak, causing oil stains on the valve covers and intake manifold. There are two VCs, front and rear. This vents to the intake track.
Timing Chain - This is a chain that connects the crankshaft to all four camshafts, so that the valves open and close properly. Unlike a timing belt, a timing chain is not normally a wear item, and usually does not need to be replaced.
Intake and Fuel System:
Fuel filter - small filter located adjacent to the brake booster. Should be replaced periodically. The larger Z32 fuel filter (91-96 300ZX NA or TT) can be used if desired, which will increase the replacement interval, but not add any performance.
Airbox - The black plastic box located behind the battery. Can be modified to the "Ghetto Airbox" or "GAB", which involves drilling many holes in the lower portion, improving intake sound.
Resonator - This is a a small black sealed box located under the battery, which can be removed with no ill effects.
MAF - Mass Airflow Sensor. This is a small black cylindrical piece in the intake path, which measures the air density. If malfunctioning, car will have CEL and will be unable to rev to a high RPM. Can be cleaned with specialty "MAF Cleaner" spray.
TB - Throttle Body - Essentially a cylinder with a pivoting plate in it, controls the amount of air entering the engine. Has two mechanical cable linkages, one for the gas pedal, one for cruise control. Can be cleaned with TB cleaner.
UIM - Upper Intake Manifold. This connects to the throttle body on one end, and splits the intake air into 6 tubes, one for each cylinder.
LIM - Lower Intake Manifold. This is a Y shaped piece that sits between the cylinder banks, separating the 6 ports from the UIM into two sets of 3 ports for the cylinder heads.
USIM - The stock intake manifold on all North American 4th gens. Infamous for the 5500rpm cutoff, where the engine horsepower decreases above 5500rpm.
MEVI - Middle Eastern Variable Intake. This is a variable intake, which has butterfly valves to change the airflow at a certain RPM, which gives performance all the way to redline.
00VI - This is the variable intake from the VQ30DE-K motor found in '00 and '01 5th gens. Similar characteristics to the MEVI. Install is more complicated, but it gives more power.
HAI/Shortram - A short aftermarket intake consisting of a midpipe and a cone filter, where the filter is located directly behind the battery.
CAI - A long aftermarket intake, where the filter is either located behind the fender under the battery, or behind the radiator in front of the engine.
PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation. This is a 1-way valve located under the throttle body that allows vapors from the crankcase to re-enter the intake track, for improved emissions and gas mileage.
IACV - Idle Air Control Valve. This is a valve behind the throttle body, which connects to the intake resonator box with a rubber hose, and controls the idle on the car.
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor. This is a small sensor on the throttle body, that tells the ECU how far open the throttle body is.
IAT - Intake air temperature sensor. This is a small sensor located in the air scoop where it bends to meet the airbox. It measures the ambient air temperature.
EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation. This is a small tube behind the throttle body, infamous for clogging itself. Vents some exhaust gas back into the intake, for improved emissions.
Motor
VC - Valve Cover. This is a piece that covers the camshafts and valves on the three cylinders. Connects to the cylinder heads with a gasket, which can sometimes leak, causing oil stains on the valve covers and intake manifold. There are two VCs, front and rear. This vents to the intake track.
Timing Chain - This is a chain that connects the crankshaft to all four camshafts, so that the valves open and close properly. Unlike a timing belt, a timing chain is not normally a wear item, and usually does not need to be replaced.
Maybe in the future, ATM I've got no real need to pull the dash.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 20
From: Fort Worth
I would love to see how to correctly get to the rear speakers.
I just removed some speakers off a '97 at a junkyard yesterday. I ended up just tearing up every thing in the back to get to them....something I don't want to do with my car.
Right now I've got them ghetto rigged in my trunk not doing me much good
I just removed some speakers off a '97 at a junkyard yesterday. I ended up just tearing up every thing in the back to get to them....something I don't want to do with my car.
Right now I've got them ghetto rigged in my trunk not doing me much good
I dunt see video
I knew there was a write up. And by all means that is a good write up. But like i said earlier a video is just icing on the cake.
The definitions are great and some of the drawing I've seen around and in the FSM is nice but it would be cool to see a video just showing you going through the motions of this is X, Y and Z all in one video. Would be easy to do with one of those magnetic tool pickups from autozone as a pointer.
That would certainly help new people as some of those diagrams in the FSM aren't easy to read.
I never searched on this because of reading the FSM but if there isn't a writeup on multimeters you might write something up about ohming or using a multimeter to test various things. A pretty invaluable tool but I bet you most people that don't use a multimeter don't know that incorrect ranges on a multimeter gives you back incorrect data (0). [Might want to mention that pawn shops normally have really good multimeters for cheap(er) than the overpriced plastic radioshack sells.]
As far as a real tutorial goes this isn't maxima centered but you don't see much safety information. A small how-to about correct placement of stands and a lecture about the issues of only using hydrolic jacks would be good. My mother doesn't like stands but thinks the large car bay hydrolic lifts are safer. We kind of laughed at that one - solid steel stands versus the off chance that a gasket or seal in the hydrolics can leak or give away over time.
That would certainly help new people as some of those diagrams in the FSM aren't easy to read.
I never searched on this because of reading the FSM but if there isn't a writeup on multimeters you might write something up about ohming or using a multimeter to test various things. A pretty invaluable tool but I bet you most people that don't use a multimeter don't know that incorrect ranges on a multimeter gives you back incorrect data (0). [Might want to mention that pawn shops normally have really good multimeters for cheap(er) than the overpriced plastic radioshack sells.]
As far as a real tutorial goes this isn't maxima centered but you don't see much safety information. A small how-to about correct placement of stands and a lecture about the issues of only using hydrolic jacks would be good. My mother doesn't like stands but thinks the large car bay hydrolic lifts are safer. We kind of laughed at that one - solid steel stands versus the off chance that a gasket or seal in the hydrolics can leak or give away over time.
As far as a real tutorial goes this isn't maxima centered but you don't see much safety information. A small how-to about correct placement of stands and a lecture about the issues of only using hydrolic jacks would be good. My mother doesn't like stands but thinks the large car bay hydrolic lifts are safer. We kind of laughed at that one - solid steel stands versus the off chance that a gasket or seal in the hydrolics can leak or give away over time.
Sure, the seals can leak or become damaged over time; exactly the same as a floor jack. Unlike a floor jack, however, automotive lifts contain locks that will keep the vehicle from plummeting to the floor if the hydraulics fail, whereas a floor jack doesn't. They also can be equipped with alternate safety equipment, such as a rate limiter to keep the car from falling too quickly, even with complete hydraulic failure.
Not to mention that due to them being permanently installed and mounted to the floor, they're far more stable and less likely to tip than a jackstand can ever be.
On a more serious note though, how about the shifter bushing maybe. I need to do mine, never done it (need to get one first) and it would help to have a 'how to' on that. Done the short throw shifter so I am somewhat aware of what all is needed, but not entirerly.
Instrument cluster (speedo / tach) sorry, was being lazzzzzy.
On a more serious note though, how about the shifter bushing maybe. I need to do mine, never done it (need to get one first) and it would help to have a 'how to' on that. Done the short throw shifter so I am somewhat aware of what all is needed, but not entirerly.
On a more serious note though, how about the shifter bushing maybe. I need to do mine, never done it (need to get one first) and it would help to have a 'how to' on that. Done the short throw shifter so I am somewhat aware of what all is needed, but not entirerly.
ing about there already being a removal for that.http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lots-pics.html
Pmohr/MOHFpro90, I'm going to take a butt load of pics/video for your tutorials when doing my projects soon.
-00vi install/modifications/repair
-VACF2 install
-Summit RPM switch (i know VACF2 has one built in, but i have one available, so why not)
-00vi install/modifications/repair
-VACF2 install
-Summit RPM switch (i know VACF2 has one built in, but i have one available, so why not)
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 704
From: Oakland, CA
Based on what people seem to ask about, and what I found to be a pain the first time:
Starter replacement
Air intake removal (just because it makes such a difference if you're working around in that area)
Hood struts (simple, but I wasted too much time head-scratching when I did it)
Rear brake pads (parking brake removal and screwing in piston)
For that matter, I suppose front brake/rotor replacement too, but that's pretty basic.
O2 sensors (particularly where they are, and any tricks for routing wires; esp. permission to cut the old wire to get it out of there)
I'd vote for EGR cleaning too, but I guess that ain't gonna happen...
Starter replacement
Air intake removal (just because it makes such a difference if you're working around in that area)
Hood struts (simple, but I wasted too much time head-scratching when I did it)
Rear brake pads (parking brake removal and screwing in piston)
For that matter, I suppose front brake/rotor replacement too, but that's pretty basic.
O2 sensors (particularly where they are, and any tricks for routing wires; esp. permission to cut the old wire to get it out of there)
I'd vote for EGR cleaning too, but I guess that ain't gonna happen...
How about how to tune your fuel system. Most people know that factory ECUs are not tuned to the particular engine they control. This would also be helpful for those going 00vi and switching the LIM.
Thanks for doing these for us.
I am about to replace my swaybar end link a video would be great help, and of course if you happen to drop oil pan or replace RMS, I'd definitely sign up for a tutorial DVD.
I am about to replace my swaybar end link a video would be great help, and of course if you happen to drop oil pan or replace RMS, I'd definitely sign up for a tutorial DVD.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
From: RIverside CA
We have an excellent pictorial how to for my other car 7 series BMW. Maybe you can get some ideas here http://www.e38.org/ e38.org Most of the members contribute how they modified stuff or replaced things. Pretty detailed.
My starter vid is still coming, YouTube just fails and cuts it in half (even though it's only 8 minutes long). So I'm reencoding that, hopefully that'll fix it.
We have an excellent pictorial how to for my other car 7 series BMW. Maybe you can get some ideas here http://www.e38.org/ e38.org Most of the members contribute how they modified stuff or replaced things. Pretty detailed.
your narrative is freaking funny man. Everytime i see one of your how-to's i chuckle.
Infomative and humorus gotta love it. Keep up the good work
Has anyone suggested headlights(the whole housing)??
Infomative and humorus gotta love it. Keep up the good work
Has anyone suggested headlights(the whole housing)??
Removing the entire headlight? I could do the driver's side, but my passenger's side is all messed up. Couldn't cover grill removal either (weight reduction/hitting a dog, whichever you want to call it).
Yea, I need to entertain myself while wrenching. God, you should hear me off camera.
Removing the entire headlight? I could do the driver's side, but my passenger's side is all messed up. Couldn't cover grill removal either (weight reduction/hitting a dog, whichever you want to call it).
Removing the entire headlight? I could do the driver's side, but my passenger's side is all messed up. Couldn't cover grill removal either (weight reduction/hitting a dog, whichever you want to call it).
thats some cheap weight reduction
Knock sensor replacement vid is up, the first part anyway.
Second part is still rendering, since YouTube seems to be failing at AVI, I have to render the damn things in WMV (****tiest codec of all time, IMO). Another hour or two, something like that.
Second part is still rendering, since YouTube seems to be failing at AVI, I have to render the damn things in WMV (****tiest codec of all time, IMO). Another hour or two, something like that.