ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

VIDEO...where I did the 3/9 o'clock test. I had the boot pulled to expose the inner tie rod joint, but to me it looks like the tie rod is solid - also, the steering rack housing is steady while the rack is the thing moving.

VIDEO2 - focused on wheel.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

That does look a bit excessive. Try it with the car running so the rack is under pressure from the PS pump. I'm suprised it's not leaking. What stands out more is the movement of the control arm in the 2nd video. That should be pretty solid, have you checked the sub-frame bolts? Something isn't right there.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, haven't tried with the car on. Those videos were taken with the car off & steering lock engaged.

Sub-frame, you say? Haven't even looked into that. Might make sense that if the sub-frame was loose that a bad rack is just a byproduct. I've been driving with poor steering ever since I got the car, 14k miles ago.

BeZerK2112

iTrader: (2)

Looks to me like there is some excessive play in the tie rod end. How many miles are on your car and have they ever been replaced? I would try the test again with the wheels on the ground. Do you hear any popping or feel any slop? Thats usually tie rod ends.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Tie rods are good, not to mention only about 2 months old-I'm convinced the movement is up in the rack/steering column.

When the steering wheel lock is engaged, should you be able to turn the steering wheel at all? I can rotate it maybe an inch or so before I feel the lock preventing further rotation.

cashoit

U should not be able to move the wheels at all with the car off. There will be a little play with the steering wheel rotating but the lock should engage and then prevent you from rotating the wheel at all. What are the symptoms when u start the car??

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Just general wandering & crazy bump steer.

I think the pinion inside is just bad or worn.

As far as the steering wheel, I mean after the lock has engaged, how much play should be in the steering wheel?

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Took some videos of testing the rack, and I learned that when the engine is on, there is no difference in force required to 'steer' by the wheels (steering rack sliding force).

Steering lock test
- first half is me turning the steering wheel to hit the lock & see how much movement transmits to the wheels
- second half is me doing the 3/9 o'clock test on the other wheel
- note: the sound you hear is all in the rack area

Steering wheel movement while locked
- just doing the 3/9 o'clock test on a wheel to show how much the steering wheel moves. (sorry for it being so dark; camera is on the elbow rest pointed towards steering wheel)

Ease of turning the wheels by hand
- shows how easy I can 'steer' by moving the wheels
- first half is with engine off, steering lock disabled
- second half is with engine on
- result: no difference in force required
- ps: I know, my strut bearing is bad

Do any of these results stand out as an obvious malfunction of the rack?

smai555

with the wheel in the air .. is there play if you grab the wheel from the top and bottom?

my 1st thought when i saw this was the ball joints .... i had a wonder every now and then turned out to be a ball joint

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

There's no top/bottom play (thankfully). Plus those were replaced less than 3 months ago. But I think all of what I've provided points to a bad rack.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Did you replace both inner and OUTER tie rod ends? The reason I ask is because in your first video the inner joint looks tight, and your rack looks fairly stable, but the wheel is moving way too much. I would put money on outer ends.
Don't worry about your wheel lock, that's a mechanism of your key switch and doesn't affect steering slop.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Full list of stuff replaced: inner tie rods, outer tie rods, control arms (includes balljoints), struts, strut mounts & bearings, swaybar end-links, swaybar/subframe bushings...all Moog except for struts (KYB GR-2), strut mounts (Monroe), & control arms (eBay).

Everything is tight from the wheel to the knuckle to the rack.

wittynamessuck

That sounds a little like what my car does.

I'll change lanes and the steering will, like... jerk out of nowhere. Most noticable when I step on the gas, acts like torque steer, but to an extreme.

maxirob

Have you looked at the rack bushings? There are two - the one on the drivers side should have rubber on both sides of the mounting bracket. i just recently had mine aligned and the shop pointed this out to me. The rack was going to wander until these bushings were replaced-btw the driviers side was easy the passenger side-well haven't done that one yet-still looks OK.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Yeah my bushings are fine & the mounting of the rack to the subframe is solid/no play encountered.

Any comments from those 3 videos I recently posted?

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

hmm, maybe aftermarket LCA's suck?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

That is CLASSIC symptoms of control arm bushings, fairly common on these cars/

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Possibly, except the same behavior was experienced before replacing them (which were originals).

My problem is more with straight-line driving. If I go over rough road (like when they de-tar a street) my steering wheel does it's own little dance. I gotta take a video of this soon.