Passender rear wheel sound
01-18-2010, 08:28 PM
#1
Passender rear wheel sound
Hello Orgers, Lately my wheel has started making a funny sound when pulling out of the driveway and even sometimes on the road.
It always sound at really slow speeds(25 mph and lower) and it starts and stops when it feels like.
A couple things I have thought about is, brake piston stuck, warped rotor, brake pad retaining clips and wheel bearings.
I have checked the piston and it goes in and comes out freely, I'm not sure about the rotor being warped, cant see how retaining clips could make that sound and I have no idea about the wheel bearings.
Below is a link to a video I shot other day. Please ignore "you hear that ****" in the last part of the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0lVzgb6nc4
It always sound at really slow speeds(25 mph and lower) and it starts and stops when it feels like.
A couple things I have thought about is, brake piston stuck, warped rotor, brake pad retaining clips and wheel bearings.
I have checked the piston and it goes in and comes out freely, I'm not sure about the rotor being warped, cant see how retaining clips could make that sound and I have no idea about the wheel bearings.
Below is a link to a video I shot other day. Please ignore "you hear that ****" in the last part of the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0lVzgb6nc4
01-19-2010, 01:47 PM
#4
Mine does the same thing on cold mornings with allot of condensation, usually I ride my brakes when backing out and the noise goes away by the time I get to the first stop sign in my neighborhood (less than 1/4 mile from my house)
01-19-2010, 06:10 PM
#5
01-19-2010, 06:28 PM
#6
mine does it every-frickin-day.Pulling out of the parking garage today, loud noise trailing behind me.Embarassing. I asked someone else and they said caliper as well....but if this indeed the caliper, why is it that when you purposely drive with the hand brake slighlty up, it doesnt make that sound?
i dont wanna buy stuff and then it doesnt fix the prob.
i dont wanna buy stuff and then it doesnt fix the prob.
01-22-2010, 10:22 PM
#10
I did that.I have someone pull up the handbrake,rotor cease,release handbrake,rotors spins immediately,however it tightens up slightly in certain spots(rotor warp). But, I can never produce the sound that is in the video. Which is what confuses me.
Last edited by Snypa; 01-23-2010 at 06:34 AM.
01-23-2010, 10:31 AM
#12
The bearings do need changing as well. But based on what i have been reading, sign of bad bearings is a constant woa-ing/humming, which varies in the speed of the car as wel. In my case, my sound is the same from 0 to atleast 25mph. Sounds totally different from bearings as well.
01-23-2010, 11:37 AM
#13
That is a common problem on cars that have not been driven but the rotor has gotten wet. Surface rust. Look on any dealer's lot and you will see it, as rotors are just plain-ole rustable steel. After the first couple of stops, the rust is gone, and it stops making that noise.
01-30-2010, 07:50 AM
#14
I inspected everything back there 2 days ago and when i removed the caliper from off the brakes and the rotor, the piston just stood still. I pulled up the handbrake slightly checking back for movement now and then, not much to the eye, but there was movement for sure, as the caliper was hard to put back on. Had to use needle nose pliers and literally struggle to spin that thing back in enough to clear the brake pads.
How easy is it suppose to be to turn the piston on the rear calipers?
Isthe piston suppose to remain in the same position although the ebrake was released.?
How easy is it suppose to be to turn the piston on the rear calipers?
Isthe piston suppose to remain in the same position although the ebrake was released.?
01-30-2010, 11:18 AM
#15
I inspected everything back there 2 days ago and when i removed the caliper from off the brakes and the rotor, the piston just stood still. I pulled up the handbrake slightly checking back for movement now and then, not much to the eye, but there was movement for sure, as the caliper was hard to put back on. Had to use needle nose pliers and literally struggle to spin that thing back in enough to clear the brake pads.
How easy is it suppose to be to turn the piston on the rear calipers?
Isthe piston suppose to remain in the same position although the ebrake was released.?
How easy is it suppose to be to turn the piston on the rear calipers?
Isthe piston suppose to remain in the same position although the ebrake was released.?
01-30-2010, 11:27 AM
#16
Yeah, i really dont know if it should just go in easily and nicely. I just need some confirmation on those questions first before getting new ones and also that when i get new ones i know how theyre suppose to operate and compare them to the ones i have on now.
05-05-2010, 09:25 PM
#17
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 12
Caliper sticking or a warped rotor or both!
Caliper sticking just enough to cause a light (relatively) pressure on the rotor. this will set up a vibration in the rotor and it will evidence only at one time each revolution. Now when you drive faster the increased speed of the rotor will cause a proportional lateral impact on the piston which will lessen the drag because the piston will be forced in a little extra from that which will happen after applying the brakes from a dead stop.
Warped rotor can cause the same issue but you should get a corresponding pulsation in braking if it is bad enough. Try this: best way - put a dial indicator and measure the run-out. If no dial indicator, jack the rear wheel up, while you turn the wheel by hand in the forward direction, have someone very GENTLY apply the emergency brake until you feel the braking while observing the resistance in the wheel while you turn it. If the warpage is excessive you will experience the wheel drag then not then drag then not - every time the warp passes the caliper. Of course this is a crude test but you can make some fundamental observations from it with which to decide.
My guess is you keep the car very clean and after a drive you came home and hit the wheels with the garden hose and warped the hot rotors. We all have done that!
BTW that thing that spins in is the adjuster for the rear brakes. If it is very hard to turn it is time for a rebuilt caliper and that is causing the dragging. You see it is designed to limit how much clearance there is between the caliper pad surface and the rotor. that is why adjusters "click' in pre-designed increments. With a corroded thread inside the piston, the "click" action is interfered with and therefore the caliper cannot relax itself and the running clearance becomes too small and even a slight rotor warpage will cause the problem. New rotors pads and calipers?
enjoy,
Mike
Caliper sticking just enough to cause a light (relatively) pressure on the rotor. this will set up a vibration in the rotor and it will evidence only at one time each revolution. Now when you drive faster the increased speed of the rotor will cause a proportional lateral impact on the piston which will lessen the drag because the piston will be forced in a little extra from that which will happen after applying the brakes from a dead stop.
Warped rotor can cause the same issue but you should get a corresponding pulsation in braking if it is bad enough. Try this: best way - put a dial indicator and measure the run-out. If no dial indicator, jack the rear wheel up, while you turn the wheel by hand in the forward direction, have someone very GENTLY apply the emergency brake until you feel the braking while observing the resistance in the wheel while you turn it. If the warpage is excessive you will experience the wheel drag then not then drag then not - every time the warp passes the caliper. Of course this is a crude test but you can make some fundamental observations from it with which to decide.
My guess is you keep the car very clean and after a drive you came home and hit the wheels with the garden hose and warped the hot rotors. We all have done that!
BTW that thing that spins in is the adjuster for the rear brakes. If it is very hard to turn it is time for a rebuilt caliper and that is causing the dragging. You see it is designed to limit how much clearance there is between the caliper pad surface and the rotor. that is why adjusters "click' in pre-designed increments. With a corroded thread inside the piston, the "click" action is interfered with and therefore the caliper cannot relax itself and the running clearance becomes too small and even a slight rotor warpage will cause the problem. New rotors pads and calipers?
enjoy,
Mike
Last edited by MikeJL; 05-05-2010 at 09:32 PM.
05-06-2010, 10:20 AM
#18
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 11
The e-brake the cables could be the problem. They tend to get sticky/rusted over time and don't release as they should. The cables may not age evenly from side to side which could explain why you only notice it on one side. If you calipers are moving freely, check them out.
All rotors will rust slightly, even overnight, especially if you live where it is humid but some are better than others. I have Stillen (brembo) slotted rotors on mine and they don't seem to rust much at all and I live in FL. They are a direct replacement and aren't too spendy. They also have better heat treatment so they don't tend to warp and have a coating which stops rust on the hats. I have had them for 8 years and have put three sets of pads on them and they still feel like new.
All rotors will rust slightly, even overnight, especially if you live where it is humid but some are better than others. I have Stillen (brembo) slotted rotors on mine and they don't seem to rust much at all and I live in FL. They are a direct replacement and aren't too spendy. They also have better heat treatment so they don't tend to warp and have a coating which stops rust on the hats. I have had them for 8 years and have put three sets of pads on them and they still feel like new.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Huttig2009
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
8
09-25-2015 03:31 PM